Fancy dresses described : or, What to wear at fancy balls

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Fancy dresses
described;

OR,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS.

By ARDERN holt.

FIFTH EDITION.

LONDON :
DEBENHAM & FREEBODY,

WIGMORE STREET AND WELBECK STREET ;

WYMAN & SONS, 74-76, GREAT QUEEN STREET

AND ALL BOOKSELLERS.

ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL.

'^/f"] 1

hit

DEBENHAM & FREEBODY

Invite an inspection of their Novelties and Specialties in

COURT DRESSES AND TRAINS,

PRESENTATION DRESSES,

BALL, EVENING, AND VISITING DRESSES,

COSTUMES,

TAILOR-MADE JACKETS AND GOWNS,

TEA-GOWNS, DRESSING-GOWNS,

MANTLES, MILLINERY,

AND

WEDDING TROUSSEAUX.

s:p'ecia;i. o.'Esre'NS in

NA TIONAL, ilf/Srp^^GJlL. '^ANDjFAJk'f V COSTUMES

jF<:^i?J fli'Bi^&Aj}^xya''tiEkigijzAi.s, and

* FANcY BALLS.

DEBENHAM & FREEBODY,

WIGMORE STREET c^' WELBECK STREET,
LONDON, W.

aiFT OF

PREFACE

HE Fourth Edition of Ardern Holt's "Fancy Dresses
Described" being exhausted, we have made arrange-
ments for the publication of the Fifth Edition with
such corrections as experience dictates, and a very large
addition to the number of characters detailed.

The suggestions we have received have been carefully
noted, and the result is a larger and more comprehensive work
than any hitherto published.

The inquiry for Coloured Plates has induced us to select
sixteen favourite Models for Illustration in Colours, of a
completely new character, as well as a new series of smaller
Illustrations, and we trust they will add greatly to the
usefulness of the book.

The Author's name is a guarantee for the correctness of the
descriptions and accuracy of details; and we have endea-
voured (as in former editions) to maintain such simplicity
as will enable many ladies to produce the costumes at home.

DEBENHAM & FREEBODY.

London :

WiGMORE Street and Welbeck Strzet,

December, 1887.

iyi94388

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in 2007 with funding from

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

COLOURED.

PLATE

Marguerite de Valois I.

Countess of Argyle (in the

time of Mary, Queen of

Scots) II.

Classic III.

Dowager of Erionne IV.

Esmeralda V.

Hero VI.

Hornet VII.

Incroyable VIII.

Italian Peasant IX.

Magpie

Monte Carlo .
Normandy ....

Swiss ,

Watteau

Witch

Maltese Water

Carrier

Butterfly

r. «:1

Red Riding Hood j s^
Goblin

<3 k ..

X.

XI.

XII.
XIII.
XIV.

XV.

XVI.

o

UNGOLOURED.

Alsatian i

Amy Robsart 2

Anne Boleyn 3

Air 4

Mrs. Balchristie 5

Blue Coat 6

Breton 7

Carrier Pigeon 8

CharityOirl 9

Charlotte Corday 10

Cinderella 11

Colleen Bawn 12

Di Vernon 13

Diana 14

Dresden China 15

England 16

Folly 17

Flower Girl 18

Footwoman 19

Fish Girl (Newhaven) 20

Girl Graduate 21

Gleaner 22

Grace Darling 23

Gainsborough 24

Miss Hardcastle 25

Huguenot 26

Juliet 27

Joan of Arc 28

Marie Stuart 29

Mary Queen of Scots 30

Marguerite 31

Marie A.ntoinette 32

VI

FANCY D:. ESSES DESCRIBED.

FIG.

Nurse 33

Night 34

Olivia Primrose 35

Punchinella 36

Patience 37

Pansy 38

Polish 39

Puritan 40

Rubens's Wife 41

Russian 42

Serving Maid 43

Lady Teazle 44

Venetian 45

Vivandiere 46, 47

Vandyke 48., 64

FIG.

Effie Deans 49

Dress of the Empire 50

Maid of Athens 51

Music 52

Lady Jane Grey 53

Martha 54

Welsh 55

Louis XIV 56

Pillar Post 57

Puritan 58

Old-Fashioned Beau 59

Harlequinette 60

Fairy ... 61

Dutch Fisher Boy 62

Grenadier 63

INTRODUCTION;

UT, WHAT ARE WE TO WEAR?

This is the first exclamation on receipt of an
invitation to a Fancy Ball, and it is to assist in
answering such questions that this volume has been compiled.

It does not purport to be an authority in the matter of
costume, for, as a rule, the historical dresses worn on such
occasions are lamentably incorrect. Marie Stuart appears
in powder ; Louis XIV. wears a beard ; and Berengaria dis-
tended drapery. No one would probably view the national
costumes with more curiosity than the peasantry they are
intended to portray, although certain broad characteristics of
the several countries are maintained by Fancy Ball-goers.

Several hundred characters, which a long and varied ex-
perience has proved to be the favourite and most effective, are
here described, with every incidental novelty introduced of
late years. A glance through these pages will enable readers
to choose which will best suit them, and learn how they are to
be carried out.

Among the Costumes adapted to BRUNES are

Africa, Arab Lady, Arrah-na-Pogue, Asia, Autumn, Bee,
Gipsies of various kinds, the Bride of Abydos, Brigand's Wife,
Britannia, Buy-a-Broom, Carmen, Cleopatra, Colleen Bawn,
Connaught Peasant, Diana, Druidess, Earth, Egyptian, Erin,
Esmeralda, Fenella, Fire, Greek, Luti, the Indian Girl, Harvest,

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

Maid of Saragossa, Maritana, Rose of Castille, and Zingari,
together with Italian, Spanish, and Oriental dresses.

'.For :.F;AIR 'WOMEN, among others, the following are
suiiable::^Arctic Maiden, Air, Bride of T.ammermoor, Aurora,
W^itte Lady .of Avenel, Canada, Canadian Snow Wreath,
t)gfliish Pea s?.m, Day, Dew, Edith Bellender, Elaine, Fair Maid
of Perth, Fairy, Flora, Gabrielle d'Estrees, La Belle Dame sans
Merci, Marguerite in Faust, Moonlight, Norwegian costumes,
Ophelia, Peace, Polish Peasant, Rainbow, Rowena, Sabrina,
Swiss, Schneewittchen, Titania, Twilight, and Water-Nymphs.

The most notable HISTORICAL DRESSES de-
scribed are Queen Anne, Anne Boleyn, Catherine of Arragon,
Catherine Howard, Catherine Parr, Catherine de Medici,
Charles I. and his Family, Madame Elizabeth ; Elizabeth,
Queen of England ; Elizabeth of York, the Georgian Period,
the James XL Period, Princess de Lamballe, Louis XIIL,
XIV., XV., XVI. Periods, Marguerite de Valois, Marie
Antoinette, Marie Stuart, the Queen's Maries, and Philippa
of Hainault.

For ELDERLY LADIES the following costumes are
suitable : — Mrs. Balchristie, Griselda Oldbuck, Dowager of
Brionne {see large Coloured Illustration), My Grandmother,
a Lady of the Olden Time, Night, Puritan, some Vandyke
dresses, Quakeress, Mrs. Primrose, wife of the Vicar of
Wakefield, Peacock, the Duchess of Orleans, a Maltese
Faldette, Mother Hubbard, Mother Shipton, a Sorceress,
a Gallician Matron, and some Gainsborough and Sir Joshua
Reynolds's dresses.

GENTLEMEN'S FANCY COSTUMES are not in-
cluded in this volume. * The following can, however, with a little
ingenuity be arranged at home : — Evening dress of the

* They are published in a separate work, entitled " Gentlemen's Fancy
Dress: How to Choose It," published by Wyman & Sons, 74-76, Great
Queen Street.

INTRODUCTION

future, viz.. white where it is usually black, and vice vefsd,
white coat and trousers, black shirt, tie, and collar. Debar-
deur : loose velvet jacket and short trousers with Maltese but-
tons, scarf around waist and velvet cap. A clergyman desirous of
being present might appear as a French abbe, or as a monk,
in a long brown ample robe with wide sleeves, and a cord
round the waist ; or a Sacconi or Italian mute, in a monk's
long white calico dress, with cord about the waist, and a pointed
cap over the head and face, having holes for the eyes and mouth.
The tall gamekeeper in Pickwick requires only a brown
velveteen coat and gilt buttons, corduroy trousers, stout gaiters,
and a game-bag slung on the shoulders. An Irish car-
driver: green coat patched, brass buttons, brocaded waist-
coat, drab breeches with patches, high collar and red tie, blue
darned stockings, leather shoes, hat trimmed with green and sprigs
of shamrock. The Cure : a blue and white striped calico suit,
with high conical cap. A Christy Minstrel: blackened
face, woolly wig, enormous collar, extravagant bouquet, long-
tailed coat, trousers of striped calico, and banjo. The two
Obadiahs : two people dressed alike in the above style.
Pierrot, the French clown, large loose trousers and blouse,
with frill at throat, made in white calico, a row of coloured
rosettes down the front, conical hat ; black skull cap, face much
painted. Sergeant Buzfuz, in a legal black robe and coif;
and the Windsor uniform, with red cloth lapels and cuffs sewn
on to an ordinary evening dress-coat, — sometimes, in lieu of red
cloth, light blue silk is used. Baker, cook, bookmaker, butler,
miller, coachman, crossing-sweeper, also suggest themselves.

SISTERS who desire to appear in costumes which assimi-
late might choose any of the following : Apple and Pear
Blossoms, Sovereign and Shilling, Cinderella's two sisters, Cor-
delia's sisters, Brenda and Minna Troil, Brunhilda and Kriem-
hilda. Salt and Fresh Water, the Roses of York and Lancaster,
a Circassian Princess and Slave, Music and Painting, the Two
Nomas, Lovebirds, Aurora and the Hours, Oranges and
Lemons, and Four Sisters as the Seasons.

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

A Husband and Wife might select Jack and Gill,
Cock and Hen, any Kings and Queens, a Wizard and Witch,
Night and Morning, or Night and Day.

Fancy Dresses are never more piquante and charming than
when worn by children ; the several characters in the Nursery
Rhymes are admirably adapted for them, and we have
given a special selection of dresses for boys and girls in the
Appendix, children's fancy balls being on the increase.

For Calico Balls, among others the following are recom-
mended : — Clairette, Fille de Madame Angot, Bo-peep, Mothers
Hubbard, Bunch, Shipton, &c., all the several Fish-girls, the
dress carried out in striped and plain cottons instead of
woollen stuffs ; Cabaretiere, Five-o'clock-tea, Flower-girls,
Flowers, Normandy, and most of the other Peasant Dresses ;
Polly-put-the-Kettle-on, My pretty Maid, Shepherdesses, Poudre
and Watteau costumes, Alphabet, Miss Angel, Scott's and
Shakespeare's heroines, Bertrade, Bonbonniere, Queen of
Butterflies, Buy-a-Broom, Charity Girl, Chess, La Chocolatiere
Cinderella, Columbine, Coming-throiigh-the-Rye, Dresden
China, Dominoes, Friquette, Germaine, Harvest, Incroyable,
Lady-Help, Magpie, Olivia and Sophia Primrose, Rainbow,
and One of the Rising Generation.

But it must be borne in mind that the word " calico " is of
elastic meaning at these balls, including cotton-backed satin
and cotton velvet. Tinsel trimmings replace gold ; ribbon is
allowed ; net takes the place of tulle ; and very few people
dream of adopting cotton gloves or mittens.

To be properly chausse and gante are difficulties at fancy
balls. With short dresses the prettiest and most fashionable
shoes are worn, either black with coloured heel and bows,
or coloured shoes to match the dress, and embroidered, the
stockings being of plain colour or stripes. With the Vivandiere
dress Wellington boots are best.

To avoid glaring inconsistencies,' it is well to remember

INTRODUCTION.

that powder was introduced into England in James I.'s reign,
though not very generally worn. It attained the height of its
glory in the Georgian period, and in 1795 ^^^^ ^ victim to the tax
raised by Pitt on hair-powder ; those that wore it subsequently
were called guinea-pigs, on account of the guinea tax. Periwigs
were first mentioned in 1529. High-heeled shoes were not
heard of till Elizabeth's reign.

It is uncomfortable to dance without gloves, so consistency
yields to convenience. For most Peasant dresses mittens are
best ; but when gloves are worn they should be as little
conspicuous as possible. For the Poudre costumes, long
mittens and long embroidered gloves are admissible. Gloves
were never heard of till the loth and nth centuries, and not
much worn till the 14th ; still, what can pretty Berengaria do
if she wishes to dance and does not care to appear ungloved ?

With regard to Hair-dressing. For Classic costumes the
hair is generally gathered together in a knot at the nape of the
neck, and bound with a fillet, a few curls sometimes escaping at
the back when the knot is carried higher up at the back ot
the head. For Modern Greek costumes, loose curls fall over the
shoulders, or the hair hangs in two long plaits. For Italian, the
two plaits are tied with coloured ribbon, and often entwined with
coins or beads, or the plaits are twisted up into a coil, thrust
through with pins. For an Egyptian costume, the hair is flat
in front, with ringlets at the back. The Turkish women plait
their hair in innumerable tresses, entwining them with coins
and jewels ; and round flat curls appear on the side of the
head. At fancy balls two long plaits are generally adopted
in this character, but it would be more correct to add to the
number. For Scotch dresses the hair is worn flat in front, and
curled at the back ; for an Irish girl the hair has a coil at the
nape of the neck. With regard to the German Peasantry ;
about Augsburg they wear the hair flat to the face, and a loose
chignon at the back. At Coblentz and Baden, it is plaited
and tied with ribbons; and near Dresden and elsewhere, where

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

the peasantry sell their hair, a close-fitting cap hides all defi-
ciencies. In Norway, the women wear the hair plaited and
pinned close to the head, or allow the plaits to hang down.
The Swedes turn it over a cushion, and let it fall in curls.
The Poles dress it in two long plaits, the Russians braid
it round the head. Marguerite, in Faust, wears two pendant
plaits tied with ribbon. A Vivandiere has hers rolled in a
coil, or in plaits : Britannia, floating on the shoulders,
like Undine, Winter, Snow, Fairies, &c., but in their case it
should be powdered with frosting, applied by shaking the
powder well over, after damping with thin white starch. A
Normandy Peasant should have the hair flat on the forehead,
and in broad looped-up plaits at the back. A Puritan has a
close coiffure, and a coil or short chignon is best beneath the
cap. For Ophelia, it should float on the shoulders, entwined
with flowers. The hair is worn- hanging down the back for
Berengaria, Gipsy, Druidess, Elaine, Fairy, Fenella, Peace,
Republique Frangaise, &c.

With regard to Historical Characters, up to Queen
Elizabeth's time the hair was parted in the middle, and either
allowed to float on the shoulders or was bound up under a coif ;
Elizabeth introduced frizzing and padding. For Marie Stuart
it should be turned over side-rolls, so as to fill the vacuum be-
neath the velvet head-dress. During the time of the Stuarts, a
crop of curls was worn over the forehead, and long ringlets at
the back. As people desire to look their best at fancy balls, it
is advisable to adapt the style required as much as possible to
the usual method of dressing the front hair, leaving the more
marked change for the back.

With regard to Powdering, it is best, if possible, not to
have recourse to wigs, they are heavy and unbecoming. It
is far better to powder the hair itself, using violet powder, and
plenty of pomatum before applying it; it entails, however, a
great deal of trouble in subsequently removing the powder.
The head may be covered with a thick soap lather. The powder

[NTRODUCTION. 7

is applied thus : A puff well filled is held above the head, jerking
the elbow with the other hand. The process should be repeated
over and over again, and it is incredible the amount of powder
that ought to be used to produce a satisfactory result. An easy
mode of dressing the hair for powder is to part it across the head
from ear to ear, turning the front over a high cushion, making
the back into a long loose chignon, with a few marteaux or
rolled curls behind the cushion. Sometimes the roll in front
is replaced by a series of marteaux placed diagonally. Some-
times the centre-piece only is rolled over the cushion, with
marteaux at the sides. Sometimes the back has four marteaux
on either side, put diagonally, with others behind the ear, or
a bunch of loose curls fall at the back. All this may be made
easier by having false marteaux and curls, which have a far
better effect than a wig. It is, however, very much the fashion
to powder the hair as it is worn now, viz., with curls in front and
a coil or twist at the back, a style which accords well with the
dress worn when powder was in fashion.

The giving of Fancy Balls requires more pre-arrangement
than an ordinary entertainment. The men-servants are often
put into the costumes of Family Retainers of old days, the
women dressed as Waiting-maids of the i8th century; the Band
also don fancy attire.

The Decorations should be arranged with some regard to
the many vivid colours worn by the company. Chinese lan-
terns hung in passages and balconies have a good effect, and
the flowers should not be of too brilliant a hue ; green foliage
is the best background.

Occasionally the hostess elects that her guests shall appear
in costumes of a particular period, and Poudre Balls find many
patrons. Under these circumstances the lady guests only
wear powder with ordinary evening dress, the gentlemen
making no change from their usual attire, save perhaps that
white waistcoats and button-holes are enjoined.

A marked feature at most Fancy Balls is a specially- arranged

8 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

Quadrille. The choice is a large one. The following have from
time to time been given : — Watteau, Poudre, Noah's Ark,
Cracker, Constellation, Domino, Hobby-Horse, Seasons,
Bouquet, Bird, Louis Quinze ; Shepherds and Shepherdesses,
when both ladies and gentlemen wear the hair powdered and
costumes associated with these characters ; a Louis Quinze
Hunting Quadrille in the hunting dress of that period; a
Holbein Quadrille in the Tudor dress ; a Quadrille ot All
Nations, embracing all nationalities, the ladies and gentlemen
of the same countries dancing together, the gentlemen
occasionally carrying the national flag ; Scotch, Irish,
King and Queen, Army and Navy, Flowers of the Year,
Venetian, Vandyke, Pack of Cards, Fairy Tale, Joe
Willett and Dolly Varden, Puritan and Cavalier. The
time when such quadrilles are danced, and the partners,
are all pre-arranged. A Singing Quadrille, in which the
heroes and heroines of the nursery rhymes wear appropriate
dresses and sing as they dance, is to be specially recom-
mended for Children's fancy balls. Country dances are
being resuscitated for costume balls ; the Maltese country
dance, the Swedish dance, Sir Roger de Coverley, the Tem-
pete, Morris dance, ribbon dance, and others. The most
effective pre-arranged dance is a well-performed Minuet or
the stately Pavane, the See-saw Waltz, the Staffordshire Jig, Le
Carillon de Dunkerque, Ribbon Dance, Mazurka, a Highland
Schottische, a Norwegian dance, a Polonaise in Watteau
Costume, or the Cachuca. At juvenile fancy balls dancing is
not, as a rule, the sole amusement. Conjurors, Ventriloquists,
Christy Minstrels, a Punch and Judy Show, and a magic
lantern, please the little ones, but possibly nothing so much as
a Horn of Plenty, out of which a liberal number of presents
are distributed, or the old familiar Christmas Tree, or a Fairy
Pool, where the children fish for presents ; and the Brandy-ball
Man (one of the guests with a tray of sweets), who distri-
butes goodies to the children.

Fancy Balls are said to have been brought over to this

INTRODUCTION. 9

country by a German lady, Mrs. Teresa Cornelys, at the end
of the last century, when they were held at Carlisle House,
Soho. Lady Waldegrave, Lady Pembroke, and the Duchess
of Hamilton were among the beauties. But then, as now, the
fashions of the day asserted their sway in the costumes of old
times. Fashionable materials are used, however inappropriate ;
when crinoline was the mode, even the peasants' dresses were
slightly distended ; during the reign of the jersey, elastic silk
served for the bodices of Gipsies, Folly, and many others ; and
material tinted with aniline dyes are used for historical raiment
of very early periods. A march round which sometimes takes
the form of a Polonaise shows off the dresses.

There is much in a name, — A Coquette, a Lady of the Past
Century, Petite Sole a la Normandie, the Bounding Ball ot
Babylon, His Picture in Chalk, a Duchess of the Next
Century, &c., have attracted attention to very mediocre
costumes ere this.

Any popular play or opera will be pretty sure to originate
the most fashionable costumes of each season, or possibly
some pretty picture. Miss Greenaway's charming sketches
suggest many of the quaintest dresses at children's fancy
balls ; and costumes of the early part of this century and
the latter part of the last, are much worn, possibly owing
to the attention now turned to what is known as artistic
dressing. The styles of the sixteenth century, — flowing skirts,
low square bodices, and puffed sleeves richly broidered, owe
their resuscitation to the same cause.

It behoves those who really desire to look well to study
what is individually becoming to themselves, and then to
bring to bear some little care in the carrying out of the
dresses they select, if they wish their costumes to be really a
success. There are few occasions when a woman has a better
opportunity of showing her charms to advantage than at a
Fancy Ball.

ARDERN HOLT.

MARGUERITE DE VALOIS

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

ABBESS, LADY. (See Nun.)

ABIGAIL. White silk skirt covered with green trelhs-
work interspersed with flowers of all colours. Tunic turned
up en laveuse and lined with jonquil silk ; bodice trimmed
with jonquil and dahlia colour, also the muslin cap ; jonquil
silk stockings ; dahlia shoes, with buckles.

ABRUZZI PEASANT. Low white embroidered linen
chemisette ; scarlet stay bodice cut very low ; short stuff gown ,-
white muslin apron ; white lace veil fastened to the head with
gold pins. Coral and bead ornaments. Hair worn in a coil.
Suitable to a dark woman.

ACADEMICAL DRESS. (^"^^ Portia; and Princess,,
Tetinyson). Long silk academical robe ; white, black, red-
or other colour, plain or brocaded, worn over a plain skirt and
bodice. Academical cap.

ADRIENNE LECOUVREUR. {As worn by Madame
Bernhardt.) Two Louis XV. costumes, one with paniers.
and draperies of ivory satin and pale blue satin bordered'
with roses ; the other after a portrait of Madame Pompadour,
rose coloured and blue satin dress, train of brocade, the
ground silver-grey, strewn with garlands of eglantine.

ESTHETIC MAIDEN. (See Maidens, Lovesick,
from Patience^

AFRICA. Short skirt and bodice made a la vierge of white
Algerienne material, trimmed with cross-cut bands of yellow

B

12 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

satin and angola fringe ; gold belt; crimson cashmere scarf across
the bodice, fastened on left shoulder with a lizard, ends floating
on dress. Tiger skin attached to the back, gold diadem with
stiff red feathers peeping above it. Necklace and large ear-
rings of beads of all colours. Africa is sometimes dressed
in more realistic fashion ; the skin blackened ; short skirt of
cotton, bright coloured scarf worn about bodice and head ;
bead ornaments, large bracelets, ring in nose.

AGNES SOREL. {Edward IV.'s reign, 1461-1483.)
Soft brocaded white dress, made long, caught up and bordered
with ermine, over gold and white brocade bordered with
same fur. Jacket bodice of white brocade, with wide revers
edged with gold; tight sleeves, puffed and slashed at
elbow. Hair in two plaits ; high horned head-dress of
period, with gauze veil. Pearl ornaments.

AIR. A white tulle or gauze dress made with several
skirts, one over the other, or blue over white, as light and gos-
samer as possible ; made long for an adult, short for a child.
The lower skirt is dotted about with silver swallows and
other birds, the upper edged with silver fringe or lace, and
covered with silver bees and a variety of insects. The low
bodice similarly trimmed, a silver-spangled scarf loosely thrown
across ; a veil attached to the head with silver butterflies ;
marabout feathers. Ornaments, silver; satin shoes, 'with
silver butterflies on the bows. The insects may be, if pre-
ferred, of their natural colours, the birds of gorgeous plumage.
A newer and more original rendering is a short blue satin
skirt, painted red towards the waist ; a windmill on one side, a
balloon on the other. The low blue bodice draped with grey
tulle, forming the tunic, but starting from a gold brooch
in the form of a face ; crimson embroidered waist-band,
bellows and horn hanging from it ; birds nestling in the tulle.
Head-dress, a gold weather-vane, (fe Plate I., Fig. 4.)

ALBANIAN. Short, scanty skirt, trimmed with gold ;
full white chemisette ; low under-bodice laced with gold ;
long-sleeved jacket of contrasting colour, or a sleeveless paletot
reaching to knees, showing white chemisette in front ; many-
coloured scarf about waist ; round satin cap or fez, placed on
the side of the head ; gauze veil, hair in long plaits. The
following colours niviy be chosen, viz., dark blue, amber, and

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 3

marone, or scarlet and green. Shoes with pointed toes. This
is the ordinary rendering for fancy balls. The dress varies
in different districts of the country. In some parts the women
wear red cotton garments, some white wool, with a skull-cap
formed of coins. The costume consists of a sleeveless tunic
over another woollen tunic embroidered at edges, the sleeves
of a lighter material than the over-dress. Scarlet sash, silk
tassels. This is in favour for fancy balls, being of Oriental
character, without trousers.

ALBERT DURER, PERIOD OF. His wife is
depicted wearing a head-rail of white linen cloth covering
the hair completely, and passed round neck and shoulders.
Low, square-bodied dress, with velvet stomacher; long
sleeves, with puffs at elbow and shoulder ; mittens ; long
plain skirt, with girdle, which draws up the dress on one side,
and to it is attached a book. Soft woollen material most
suitable. A beautiful dress of the style of this artist was
worn as Anne of Denmark at the Buckingham Palace Fancy
Ball, 1842. Skirt of violet velvet touching the ground, opening
up the side to show a petticoat of cloth of gold ; low bodice
over white chemisette ; gold stomacher ; jewelled belt ; sleeve
puffed and slashed, of velvet and muslin with gold embroidery,
the embroidered cuff falling over the hand. Large picturesque
hats with feathers were worn at this time.

ALCESTIS {Euripides). Chiton or sleeveless robe
of terra-cotta soft silk, draped in straight folds over a loose
falling under-robe of the same, caught up high at the side and
again below the waist. Hair in Greek knot, high at the back
of the head, encirled by a band of gold braid. Sandals on
feet.

ALGERIAN COSTUME, Skirt, just touching the
ground, of blue and gold brocade ; red and gold embroidered
scarf round the waist ; full muslin under-bodice sewn to a
broad black velvet band at the neck ; short jacket of blue
velvet elaborately embroidered in gold, with long hanging
sleeves, tight-fitting gold under ones coming to wrist. Hair
almost hidden by a red handkerchief wath the ends tied in
front.

ALICE BRIDGENORTH(/'^wr/7^///z^P^^^). Puritan
dress, high to the throat, with small ruff; muslin cap and ker-
chief; fair curls. {See Puritan.)

p. 2

14 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

ALICE IN WONDERLAND. (^^^ Girls' and Boys'
Fancy Costumes at the end of the book.)

ALICE LEE. Hair curling in front, a coil at back,
surmounted by a dark blue hat, or a fillet of blue beads and
pearls. Plain stone-coloured train falling to the figure ; light
blue front, trimmed with gimp. Basqued bodice of dark blue
velvet, piped with light blue, opening over a white stomacher^
the bodice cut efi cceur back and front. The sleeves wide at
top, tight fitting at wrist, puffed at elbow. The bodice may
also be low, with muslin kerchief, showing much of neck.

ALMEH. Bodice of white gauze studded with silver,
made loose ; pink gauze skirt, a girdle of pink ribbon
streamers falling over it. Egyptian head-dress of pink and
silver.

ALPHABET. Short black underskirt bordered with gold
Roman letters ; second skirt white, with old EngUsh letters in
ruby velvet ; third skirt blue, covered with black velvet letters ;
black velvet low bodice ; muslin fichu and apron ; blue cap
with word " Alphabet " on band, or a battlemented crown, a
letter on each ; aigrette of goose-quills ; birch rod and primer
as chatelaine. It may also be made in any coloured silk,
satin, cotton, or tarlatan, and the letters printed on the more
substantial materials ; or any evening dress may be utilised by
wearing a belt across bodice, a band of black velvet round the
throat, and high cap all adorned with letters ; or carried out as
follows : Black tulle evening dress, silver letters stuck on
spirally ; huge A, B, C on train ; large black fan with A, B, C
upon it ; the same on shoes ; the vowels on velvet round the
neck; black capitals on the handkerchief

ALSATIAN. The distinctive feature is a large flat bow
on the top of the head, composed of black silk, with two loops
and two ends, attached to close-fitting gold or silver-embroidered
velvet cap, put in a band of silk at the back, about a hand's
breadth in width, which forms a bow in front; short red
cloth skirt, trimmed with gold braid and black velvet, blue
plaiting below, and lace ; long, straight black silk apron,
edged with black lace; low black velvet bodice, called "muzze,''
embroidered with gold or silver in front, the peasants wear
this sewn to the skirt. At fancy balls it has a jockey basque
at back, round cuirass bordered with gold in front, and loops
of black ribbon, laced with red over white muslin ; black bows

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1$

on shoulder-straps ; full muslin under-bodice to neck and
wrists; black lace or many-coloured fichu at throat; black
shoes, red heels ; blue stockings ; mittens ; hair in pendent
plaits; tiny bouquet of white heather; tricolour on cap.
Alsatian Gleaner. Same, with handkerchief about the
head in lieu of cap. Alsace and Lorraine are sometimes
represented together, and wear a shield with arms at side.
(Plate!., Fig. i.)

ALTREVAL, COUNTESS D'. (In Zadies' Battle.
See L.)

AMAZONS, QUEEN OF THE. Short scarlet satin
petticoat, covered with symbolical animals, cut out in black
velvet and gold cloth, the edges bordered with gold cord, the
bodice formed of a tiger skin ; a helmet on the head, a shield
on the arm.

AMBULANCE NURSE. {See Geneva Sister, and
Illustration, Plate IX., Fig. 33.)

AMERICA. Short white satin skirt, with red and blue
stripes ; blue satin tunic, edged with silver fringe, covered with
silver stars ; white satin waistcoat ; blue satin jacket, revers at
neck, coat-tails at back trimmed with red and silver ; mousque-
taire sleeves ; all-round collar, muslin tie ; blue satin high boots ;
diamond ornaments ; coronet of diamond stars, with red,
white, and blue ostrich feathers ; or a blue felt cocked hat,
with white and red rosette, and bound with blue. {See United
States. )

AMERICAN INDIAN, NORTH. {See Indian.)
AMPHITRITE, Sea-green gauze dress powdered with
silver; silver tunic with shells, coral, and seaweed; a bandelet
of sea shells round the head, the flowing hair studded with
precious stones and crystal drops. The style of this dress
follows prevailing fashions. {See Water Nymph.)

AMSTERDAM ORPHANAGE.— Short plain full
gathered skirt, one side black, the other red, the plain tight
bodice similarly divided; white tucked apron; large kerchief
worn over the dress, crossing in front ; cap of thick white
muslin, the front close-fitting and flat, the back full.

AMY ROBSART. An Elizabethan dress of the richest
materials, velvet, satin, or brocade, in any colours ; the skirt
or train worn over a hoop is full, touching the ground
and bordered with a jewelled band ; the front breadth of con-

1 6 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

trasting colour or fabric may be quilted or embroidered, and
sewn with gems ; low plain bodice, bordered at waist with
frill of material ; large upstanding wired lace ruff from shoul-
ders ; sleeves, one puff at top, tight to wrist, close ruffles ;
head-dress a slightly pointed cap of velvet, pearls, and feathers.
{See Plate I., Fig. 2).
ANDALUSIAN. {See Spanish.)

ANGEL, MISS. Thus described in Miss Thackeray's
novel, identical with

ANGELICA KAUFFMAN. " Sacque and petticoat
of white silk, a grey brocade upon it resembling network, em-
broidered with rosebuds ; deep-pointed stomacher, pinked and
gimped ; the sleeves fitted the arm closely to a little below
the elbow, from which hung three point-lace ruffles ; her
neckerchief was of point, confined by a bunch of rosebuds ;
three rows of pearls were tied with a narrow white satin ribbon ;
her small lace cap floated over curls and powdered hair ; shoes
with heels three inches high to match the dress." Mittens
may be worn. The dress is often white, the sacque brocaded
sometimes with silver.

ANGLO-SAXON PERIOD, WOMEN OF, had
loose dresses touching the ground, consisting of tunic, kirtle,
and mantle with large over-sleeves ; the tunic was worn over
the under garment, then made of linen, with tight sleeves
at wrist ; the word kirtle has many meanings, it was then
applied to the loose under-skirt. The head was enveloped in
a veil of stuff, silk, or wool, only worn out of doors. The
skirt is bordered with embroidery, tight sleeves, a girdle round
waist, the bodice high to the throat meeting a gold necklet.
For regal robe from shoulder of distinct tone, velvet would
be the best material. Gold circlet on head. Red, green, and
blue the favourite colours.

ANGOT, FILLE DE MADAME {Clairette). Short
skirt, striped or plain red ; low velvet or pink satin bodice,
muslin kerchief inside, the ends tucked under a bib of the black
or pink silk apron, bordered with lace half-hidden by a muslin
apron, scolloped at edge, the left corner tucked into waistband
on right side ; large full muslin cap, red cockade at side, or a
straw hat poised at back of head, with velvet trimmings and
pink roses ; sleeves to elbow ; large gold cross and ornaments.
In the early scenes she wears a bridal dress.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 7

ANGOT, MERE. White crepe lisse cap, trimmed with
Valenciennes, large red butterfly bow fastened at the top of
the head, another at the side ; yellow satin short skirt, red satin
overskirt, the front breadth barred en tablier with black satin,
and over it an apron of white crepe lisse, one corner turned
up. Crepe fichu, leaving throat and neck uncovered, crossed
under a cerise satin corslet bodice.

ANNE OF BRETAGNE {Wife of Charles VIII.
of Frajice. 1485- 1498). As worn at the fancy ball at
Buckingham Palace, 1842. Full plain trained skirt of red
velvet, bordered with gold and jewels, opening on one side
over panel of gold and silver richly embroidered, and turned
back with ermine. Low square bodice outlined with gold,
gold pendant girdle, band of gold and jewels down the centre
of bodice ; long hanging sleeves bordered with gold. Crimson
velvet coif; gold crown, tulle veil.

ANNE OF DENMARK, 1548 {Daughter of Christian
III. of Denmark^ and first wife of Augustus^ son of Duke
of Saxony). Worn at the fancy ball at Buckingham Palace,
by Viscountess Canning. {See Albert Durer Period.)

ANNA DANICHEFF. Russian costume. (6*^^ Russian
Peasant.)

ANNE BOLEYN. Velvet surcoat, full, touching the
ground, bordered with jewels and ermine; distinct front
breadth or kirtle of satin or gold cloth, embroidered and
jewelled ; long girdle of gems ; long-waisted bodice square-
cut, worn over partlet, viz., chemisette of satin embroidered in
gold ; deep hanging ermine-Hned sleeves, over close-fitting ones
matching the kirtle ; velvet diamond-shaped hood, often em-
broidered with jewels, forming bag at back, with triple-pointed
coronet close to face, showing little hair ; splendid jewels.
The costume may be of black, purple, or ruby velvet, with
white satin or cloth-of-gold ; blue velvet and amber satin, &c.
Pointed shoes with diamond stars. Gold tissue cloth worn at
this period. {See Plate I., Fig. 3.)

ANNE, QUEEN OF ENGLAND. (1702-1714.)
Long plain skirt of satin or brocade over small hoop, low
pointed bodice with stomacher; sleeves in one long puff -to
elbow ; gold girdle; velvet furred train from shoulder, fastened

l8 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

with jewels ; hair turned off from face and hanging in curls,
entwined with pearls ; crown ; long embroidered gloves. Some-
times the bodice was continued as a sort of polonaise, and
looped back on the hips ; pillow-lace ruffles and tucker.

ANNE: DRESS OF QUEEN ANNE'S PERIOD.

1702-12. Much the same as the latter part of Louis XIV.,
who reigned in France from 1643 to 17 15. The fashions vary
considerably during this reign. They are often mistaken for
those of George I. Satin is the stuff to represent this period.
A sacque is a necessary part of the dress ; patches, a square
bodice, elbow sleeves, lace lappets, the commode head-
dress of plaited gummed lace, made on a frame of wire
with ribbons and lace in tiers, standing up crest-wise ; it
assumed in time very large proportions. (For style of commode
head-dress, see PI. XIV,, Fig. 56, period of Louis XIV. It may
be replaced by the hood worn then — a strip of soft silk placed
flat on the head, and loosely knotted under the chin, some-
times lined with a contrasting colour. At the end of Queen
Anne's reign, powder was worn, and high cushions and lace
caps with lappets. Fans are indispensable. Flounced silks,
long gloves, trains caught through the pocket hole, are among
its distinguishing features. Hoops came in, in the middle of
reign. Kneller's portraits are good guides. The following is
a correct costume. Petticoat, pale yellow silk with flounce
of old lace. Sacque of old running-pattern brocade, green
and yellow, caught back on skirt ; French lawn apron
trimmed with old point ; stomacher and commode head-dress
to match ; high heeled yellow shoes, very pointed, with
buckles ; Watteau fan, and Mousquetaire gloves.

ANNE OF AUSTRIA {Wife of Louis XIII. 1610).
An historical costume which admits of rich materials and splen-
did jewels. High close-fitting bodice, with ruff at throat, long
sleeves puffed longitudinally, ruffles at wrists, bodice pointed
and coming on to hips, bordered with jewels and em-
broidered ; plain skirt, hooped, trimming of gold and jewels
carried down the front and round the hem ; velvet brocade or
satin and gold tissue suitable; small velvet cap, with jewelled
heron's plume, fastened with emeralds ; hair curling on the
forehead.

ANNE OF CLEVES {Fottrth wife of Henry VIII
1557). Similar costume to that worn by Anne Boleyn. The

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 9

Stiff bodice of ruby or green velvet, or gold brocade, would be
cut as a low square, showing the bare neck, with a jewelled
velvet band encircling the throat : long sleeves slashed, girdle
round waist ; a velvet cap called French hood, with white
visible beneath. A bag hangs at the side of the velvet or
brocaded skirt, which is jewelled down the front. A round
ostrich feather fan carried in hand.

ANNE OF GEIERSTEIN {Sir Walter Scott). An
old-fashioned Swiss dress made with a short red skirt, bordered
with gold colour, blue bands can be introduced ; the low
bodice laced in front over a stomacher ; the white chemisette
gathered into a band at the throat ; short overdress of blue
opening in front, sleeves to wrist with cuffs and epaulettes ;
round Swiss hat, trimmed with crimson. Or, in full dress,
with long brocaded skirt, low bodice formed of alternate
perpendicular pufKings of satin and velvet, sleeves tight to
wrist, a puff at the top ; band of same colour as the dress
round the head.

ANNE PAGE {Merry Wives of Windsor). Velvet skirt
touching the ground, opening in front over satin petticoat, the
sides bordered with lace and pearls ; velvet low bodice, tabs
all round, satin stomacher, high lace ruff from shoulders,
puffed satin sleeves to wrist, with turn-back cuffs of lace ;
conical velvet peaked hat, bordered with pearls, lined with satin
to match petticoat ; a veil is sometimes worn. Sir W. Calcot
painted her in a white satin dress, a pink bodice, and long
jacket basque, open in front and edged with swansdown. The
sleeves come below the elbow not quite to the wrist, finished
off with a ruff. The bodice is half-high, bordered with
vandyked lace tacked down ; a muslin kerchief within this.
Hair dressed in curls, not powdered, a blue rosette on one
side. Another rendering is as follows : Ruby velvet bodice
cut low at neck, edged with wide lace collar turning down-
wards. Long sleeves with full puffs at shoulders and wrist,
ribbon run through them. Pale yellow satin train, ruby and
white striped petticoat ; ruby velvet shoes with rosettes ; strings
of pearls round throat.

ANNIE LAURIE. This heroine of Scotch song wears
a simple dress of white satin or muslin, generally made
with a short plain skirt, one flounce at the edge; full
banded low bodice, short sleeves; satin plaid, fastened

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

on the shoulders with a brooch ; Scotch bonnet of black
velvet, or merely a blue ribbon snood.

ANN, WIFE OF RICHARD THE THIRD, 1483-
1485. Coronation robes, crimson velvet furred with minever ;
shoes of crimson tissue. She is also described by Planche as
wearing a kirtle and mantle of white cloth of gold, trimmed
with Venetian gold, furred with ermine "garnished with
seventy annulets of silver gilt and gylt." At fancy balls she
appears in a pale green satin skirt, bordered with a trellis-work
of gold, edged with fur ; close fitting jacket edged with ermine ;
turnover collar and cuffs of fur. Hair in ringlets, surmounted
by gold caul, with a kerchief at the back of fine lawn dis-
tended with wire ; trained mantle from shoulders, of velvet
bordered with fur. A crown is often the only head-dress.

AN NOT LYLE {Legend of Montrose). Short tartan
skirt, slashed jacket bodice, and overskirt of blue satin, both
trimmed with silver gimp ; lace ruffles, blue and silver snood,
blue shoes, silver chain, harp, key, and ornaments. The
hair may be left loose.

ANTWERP, DRESS AT. The Flemish peasant cos-
tumes seen here consist of a stuff gown, long apron, coloured
handkerchief crossing in front of bodice, and the long black silk
or stuff cloak with hood wired round the edge. The cap has
a high full crown with pendant sides, like a hound's ears,
made of lace.

APPENZELL LACEMAKER. Short scarlet skirt with
low square black velvet bodice embroidered in silver, with
silver ornaments. High muslin cap and apron. (T^^rAppEN-
ZELL Peasant, see Swiss.)

APPLE BLOSSOM. Evening dress of soft pink arid
white tulle trimmed with the blooms, or a pink silk or satin
dress. A basket of the flowers carried in the hand. A wreath
for head-dress, with long tulle veil. Apple and Pear Blossom
are good dresses for two sisters. {Sec Flowers. )

APPLE GATHERER. Short brown satin skirt, tunic
of blue Liberty silk, bodice of striped brown and blue satin,
made as a low square ; white satin sleeveless basqued jacket
over ; elbow sleeves of white muslin ; mob cap ; ornaments
enamelled apples. A basket slung round the figure filled with
apples.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 21

APRIL. Short skirt of pale blue tulle with crystal drops ;
black bodice having pendent sleeves with silver moons ; grey
tulle wound round head and shoulders like a filmy cloud.
Sometimes called April Showers.

AQUARIUM. Fashionable evening dress of blue and
green tulle, trimmed with marine plants and ornamented with
fish and shells, the octopus on one side of the skirt ; veil of
green tulle ; hair floating on shoulders. Bodice trimmed with
seaweed and coral ; ornaments, silver fish and coral.

ARABIAN WOMAN. Loose trousers to the ankles
of gauze or muslin over silk ; cerise silk short skirt, covered
with white striped gauze ; blue tunic and loose bodice, opening
en cceur, trimmed with gold braid; under-bodice of folded
muslin; long hanging gauze sleeves; red silk turban with
sequins, or conical cap studded with gold and jewels ; hair
hanging in plaits, with flowers ; mantle of yellow stuff,
fastened to the shoulders ; red embroidered slippers, bangles
round ankles ; gold bracelets, rows of coral and beads, chains
about the neck ; gold fibulae.

ARABELLE (BABIOLE). Short white silk skirt, with
three box-plaited flounces edged with blue satin. Blue satin
apron, and bodice cut square and bordered with a frill of lace ;
elbow sleeves.

ARBLAY, MADAME D'. The famous Fanny Burney,
lady in waiting to Queen Charlotte (see Burney). Pale blue
satin petticoat, with pearls and silver braid. Flowered satin
over skirt, with white ground, made short in front to show
blue hose, and high heeled shoes with diamond or silver
buckles ; powdered hair ; a high cap of white lace tied under
the chin. Bodice square cut, with elbow sleeves showing a
muslin kerchief crossed in front. Any good Georgian costume
is suitable.

ARCADIAN SHEPHERDESS. Short blue skirt ; a
narrow long white apron, with stripes of white linen bordered
with pink and ornamented with pink bows ; a white under-
bodice comes to a point about three or four inches below the
waist, and is covered by a low blue bodice with revers, leaving
a diamond-shaped piece of the white visible ; the sleeves are
blue, made full and trimmed with pink and white ; the hat is

2 2 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

something of the Leghorn shape, and the crook, a short one,
is simply ornamented at the top with a bunch of blue, pink,
and white ribbons. Another style is a short white tulle skirt
with blue bows and blue convolvulus. A Swiss bodice made
of blue silk trimmed with tulle, a bunch of pink roses on the
left shoulder; straw hat trimmed with roses and convolvulus;
a bunch of the same in the powdered hair ; crook decorated
with flowers and ribbons. {See Shepherdess.)

ARC-EN-CIEL. (5^^ Rainbow, Iris.)

ARCHANGEL. (As worn by the Marchioness de
Gallifet at a ball in Paris, time of Napoleon IIL) Short
petticoat of white cashmere, embroidered in gold ; the bodice
to represent glistening scale armour, made either in metal or
of silver woven cloth ; white feather wings attached to each
side, descending below the knee ; golden hair floating over
the shoulders and down the back in long careless ringlets ;
a diamond star on the forehead ; a small steel sword carried
in the ungloved hand.

ARCTIC MAIDEN AND ARCTIC QUEEN. (See
Winter.)

ARGYLE, COUNTESS OF. Time of the regency of
Mary, Queen of Scots, taken from David Wilkie's picture of
John Knox preaching to the Lords of the Congregation, now in
our National Gallery. The dress can be rendered in satin
brocade or velvet with a plain satin petticoat. The bodice
and skirt are united at the back, the front is a distinct petti-
coat. The long pendant sleeves are lined with ermine, and
are part and parcel of the slashed pufis, which are placed on
the shoulder. The bodice is half high, with wired muslin
ruff; the cuffs are of the same material. The head-dress is
lined with cream and bordered with pearls, a plain gauze or
tulle veil falls at the back ; a jewelled cross hangs at the side.
This is a good illustration of the costumes of the middle of the
sixteenth century, 1547 to 1579 ; Henry II., Francis II.,
Charles IX., reigning in France ; Edward VL, Mary, and
Elizabeth in England. {See Coloured Plate II.)

ARIEL {Te7npest). Short white diaphonous tulle dress,
with silver wand and silver gauze wings ; hair floating on
shoulders, confined by a silver band round the head, with star
in centre ; low full bodice and short sleeves.

ARLEQUINETTE. Short skirt formed of red, yellow.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 23

and black diamonds ; low square basque bodice of the same
colours, striped, cut in Vandykes, and trimmed with gold;
short puffed sleeves ; boots, one red, one yellow. Three
cornered black hat ; coloured aigrette. {See Harlequinette
and Plate XV., Fig. 60.)

ARLINE {Bohemian Girl). Black or rose-coloured tulle
or satin dress covered with coins and gold braid ; scarf of many
colours round the skirt; gold armlets below and above the
elbow, connected with gold chains ; gold net on the head, with
coins. Or short dress of crimson, blue, green, and yellow satin
stripes, trimmed with gold lace and sequins ; pale blue satin
tunic embroidered in gold ; cap to correspond ; armlets and
ornaments of coins. Satin shoes ; hair in a coil or pendent
plaits.

ARMENIAN ^WOMAN. In the country they wear
shoes with toes turning upwards, full silk trousers, white
under-dress, open at neck, made of thin muslin ; a silk scarf
round waist ; full white sleeves ; velvet embroidered sleeveless
coat, opening wide in front ; round cap of velvet ; hair in
plaits, and a yachmush out of doors. For a fancy ball, hand-
some silver clasps are added to the belt ; a silk brocaded
jacket and tunic often replace the over-dress. Long gauze
veil and plenty of ornaments admissible.

ARM IDA {Tassd s Jerusalemme Liberatd). Niece of Idraot,
Prince of Damascus. Golden hair falling loosely on shoulders,
the head encircled with band of gold ; long flowing loose robe
of cashmere or any soft woollen stuff of greyish tint, low at the
neck, the sleeves loose and hanging, a girdle at the waist ;
edge of skirt and bodice bordered with gold.

ARRAH-NA-POGUE. Short red woollen petticoat, blue
and white striped low bodice, and tunic pinned back laveuse
fashion; plain sleeves to elbow, white neckerchief and apron;
grey stockings, high-heeled shoes; milk-pails. {See Irish
Peasant.)

ART. Flowing classic dress of light cashmere ; low full-
bodice girdled with tassels; short sleeves cut in two Van-
dykes, fastened with buttons on outside of arm, and long
train from the shoulders lined with a colour ; drab and blue,
or gold and brown are suitable. The draperies may be bor-
dered with Greek pattern in gold braid. A palette and brush

24 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

on one side, modelling tools on the other. Hair floating on
shoulder ; crowned with bay leaves. Antique classic gold
ornaments.

ASHTON, LUCY (Bride of Lanwierinoor). Antique
bridal dress of white satin ; train, front breadth, and stomacher
worked in pearls and silver and trimmed with lace. Long
pointed low bodice, a deep fall of lace turning downwards
from neck ; sleeves in one puff to elbow, and rufiies ; lace veil
and wreath, pearl ornaments ; a blue ribbon attaching broken
coin round neck.

ASIA. Magnificent Oriental dress, a blaze of jewels and
gold. Robe of purple silk, embroidered in gold, over-petticoat
of gold brocade ; low bodice, with embroidered stomacher ;
mantle of gold brocade from shoulders ; a scarf of many
colours about waist ; diamond tiara.

ASLANGA {Fouque's Asla7iga!s Knight), Robe of white
cashmere ; a gold belt round the waist of low full bodice, gold
embroidery on the skirt, neck, and sleeves ; long circular
mantle fastened with gold brooch, embroidered to match the
skirt; shoes of white undressed doeskin, embroidered in
gold ; fair hair, loose and flowing.

ASSYRIA, QUEEN OF. Classic dress of white cash-
mere, embroidered in gold, wreaths of lotus leaves round the
edge, with a gold fringe below ; bodice and peplum of the
same, ornamented with jewelled bands ; jewelled girdle ; train
of Egyptian pink cashmere fastened on the shoulder with
lotus flowers and precious stones ; crown of lotus leaves ;
necklet of the same in gold.

ASTROLOGY. Amber, black, and red, the most suitable
colours. Skirt made short, of amber, red, and black satin,
striped perpendicularly, and cabalistic signs on the amber
stripes ; red tunic bordered with amber, on which are a row
of cats' heads, the black satin studded with gold and silver
stars. Bodice and paniers of red satin, also bordered with
cabalistic signs ; short shoulder cape of black satin \ black
pointed cap with the same signs over powdered hair. Book
and telescope carried in the hand.

AS YOU LIKE IT. {See Audrey, Celia, Phcebe, and
Rosalind.)

ATHENS, MAID OF. White classic Greek dress,
edged with gold; blue sash; coin head-dress, or red Greek

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 25

cap, spangled ; short Greek embroidered jacket ; white under-
bodice ; full white sleeves to elbow^ ; round the waist a
jewelled band ; flowing skirt. {See Greek, and Plate XIII.,
Fig. 51-)

AUDREY {As You Like It). Loose yellow woollen dress,
high to throat, with long open sleeves, rope round the waist ;
large felt hat ; hair floating about the shoulders. Sometimes
she wears a rough figured woollen tunic and handkerchief
of the same over low^ bodice, a large felt broad-brimmed hat ;
or sometimes a bodice and tunic made with short sleeves, the
white under-dress showing in the full sleeves to wrist and the
stomacher ; a sort of sun-bonnet on the head.

AUGUST. {See Harvest.)

AURORA. Tulle ball-dress, lower skirt white, then one
of grey-blue and one of pink, spangled with gold stars, the
whole veiled in light yellow spangled tulle ; veil of the same
and blue velvet tiara, one star in centre, for head-dress ; orna-
ments, gold stars. It may also be rendered in grey and pink.

AUSTRIAN PEASANT. A short dress of red or green
woollen material ; the bodice low square, with long white
sleeves to wrist, laced in front ; a kerchief beneath ; or there
is a white under-bodice and sleeves, and a large plaited collar.
The hat is high and pointed, with flowers at the side. In
Upper Austria, on fete days, the girls wear a helmet-shaped
head-dress of gold gauze. Black velvet low, square, sleeveless
bodice ; a red and yellow handerchief tucked inside ; full
white puffed sleeves to elbow. Bright coloured cotton short
skirt, boots, and embroidered apron. {See German Peasant.)

AUTUMN. Generally a fashionable evening dress of
white, brown, ruby, maize, old gold, or pale green silk, satin, or
tulle, trimmed with chatelaines of purple and white grapes, vine,
or red-leafed Virginia creeper, and other shaded autumn leaves;
or bouquets of poppies, cornflowers, convolvulus, wheat-ears,
barley, oats, hops, grasses, blackberries, apples, and other
autumn fruits; beehives, bees, birds, and a sickle are other
insignia ; head-dress, wreath and tulle veil ; ornaments of
dead gold, or china flowers mounted ; silk stockings to match
the dress, and shoes with flow^ers ; a basket of fruit and flowers
may be carried in hand. Another rendering : a short pink
silk skirt and low bodice ; a panther skin fastened on one
shoulder and draped on the hip; the edges of skirt and bodice

26 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR

are bordered with leaves and grapes on velvet trellis work ; the
same in hair, and on the wand carried in the hand. Sometimes
Autumn is dressed in classic drapery (see Greek), with the
floral and other insignias of the season.

AUTUMN, GOLDEN. The bodice and tunic of
golden satin, looped over tulle of the same shade ; the tunic
caught back and edged with a fringe of ears of corn, clus-
ters of fruit of all kinds, and nuts ; the bodice trimmed to
correspond, and for the small sleeves a band of fruit and
leaves ; a wreath of ears of corn and fruit ; ornaments of
fruit. Attached to side a gold-coloured fan with a border
of ears of corn ; a cluster of fruit placed on the outside stick ;
in the hand either a bunch of corn or a sickle.

AUVERGNE PEASANT (or Auvergnate). Short black
or black and white striped skirt made plain ; red tunic ; low
velvet bodice, with black braces over shoulders ; white
chemisette, with ruff, and short sleeves ; bibbed red linen
or white muslin apron, bunch of flowers at the side ; large
straw hat, with flat crown, coming w^ell down at ears ;
peasant jewellery of silver hearts ; black shoes ; coloured silk
stockings.

AVELINE (Z^ J/^r/'^/^/z/f). Normandy costume. Short
skirt of old gold trimmed with bands of brown ; laveuse tunic
of reddish pink bunched up at back. High basqued brown
bodice with bars of old gold cut square, a brown linen collar
at the back. Puffed sleeves slashed with old gold ; linen
cuffs ; Normandy cap ; low shoes ; brown stockings ; milliner's
box. (See Normandy Peasant.)

AVENEL, WHITE LADY OF. (See White Lady.)
AZUCENA (// Trovatore). Tawny yellow loose woollen
robe, confined at waist by leather belt with pendent tassels ;
scarf of red and other coloured silk fastened into girdle and
on shoulders ; head bound with a many-coloured striped
handkerchief; rows of beads round neck. Or a Gipsy cos-
tume, red and gold, with sequins ; tambourine slung at back.
(See Gipsy.)

BABES IN THE WOOD. (See Girls' and Boys'
Fancy Costumes, Appendix at end of volume.)

BABY BUNTING. (See Girls' and Boys' Fancy
Costumes, Appendix.)

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 27

BABET {Blaise and Babct). Plain brown or blue skirt
and tunic; large bows at the side; red corselet bodice over
a low white one ; sleeves made in two puffs ; hair in curls,
surmounted by a straw hat with ribbons and flowers.

BACCARAT. Train and tunic of white velvet with red
satin bodice and short skirt all covered with cards, and the
pips of the cards, hearts, clubs, and spades, which appear also
on the tricorn hat.

BACCHANTE. White tulle dress, with green satin
tunic and bodice, fully trimmed with grapes and leaves ;
leopard's skin attached to the back ; wreath of grapes. Or
classical dress of apple green " Liberty " silk, the draperies-
caught up with white and purple grapes ; large wreath o€"
grapes on the head; flesh coloured stockings; the sandals;
tied with purple ribbon.

BACKGAMMON. Maize satin low bodice and short
skirt, trimmed with black velvet and gold braid ; upper skirt ;
cut in deep points alternately cerise and black satin, bordered
with gold braid ; velvet necklet, backgammon men as pendents.
Enamel dice for ear-rings ; bracelet clasps, and ornaments ;;
cerise satin cap. Cup for dice suspended by gold cord from
waist to hold handkerchief. Another rendering. — Short fulL
skirt of ecru satin bordered with circles of red and white satiir
appliqued on with gold braid to simulate the pieces of the
game ; a small plaiting of lace let in between points of"
alternate red and black satin falling from waist, with a goldl
tassel at each point ; low bodice, pointed back and front,
formed of squares of black and ecru satin ; shoulder knots
of white, crimson, and black ribbon ; cap made to resemble
a dice with the usual markings ; scarlet aigrette at the side.
A pocket, formed like another dice, hangs at side of skirt;
red fan, shoes, and stockings, with buckles : black gloves.

BACON, LADY. {See Elizabeth, Queen of England,,

PERIOD.)

BADMINTON. {See Lawn Tennis.)

BAHAMA FRUIT SELLER. Dress of lilac print,
cut low in the neck ; white linen apron with scarlet braid ;
white muslin turban; beads round the neck; tray on head with
fruit. The face should be coloured.

c

28 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

BAIGNEUSE. Soft white serge knickerbockers; full
loose bodice and skirt trimmed with red braid, red scarf round
the waist ; espardelles on the feet, covered with flesh-coloured
stockings ; red cap.

BALCHRISTIE, MRS. ("The Portly Housekeeper," in
Heart of Af id- Lothian). Dark dress, plain skirt, low square
bodice, kerchief tucked inside ; sleeves to elbow, muslin ruffles
below ; square muslin lace-edged apron covering front breadth ;
muslin cap with bows and ends of ribbon. Stick in hand ;
bunch of keys at side. Woollen stuff, satin, silk, or velvet
are suitable materials. {See Plate IL, Fig. 5.)

BALEARIC ISLES, PEASANTS OF. Dress of

black silk or merino ; bodice made half-high, with elbow
sleeves, ornamented down all the length with metal buttons ;
the bodice is trimmed in front with silver beads and chains ;
full plain skirt, large striped apron. The distinguishing
feature is the rebozello, viz., the head-dress in two parts, one
made of muslin or lace, like a half handkerchief, the centre
point falling at the back, two ends in front, the other, a closer
.fitting head-dress, is fastened at the back of the head, and
brought together beneath the chin like a nun's veil. The
hair floats loosely beneath it.

BARBARA YELYERTON, LADY. {See Gains-
borough.)

BARMAID {Louis XVL). Red silk skirt bordered with
black velvet band ; tunic of Pompadour chintz ; white muslin
apron and fichu ; black velvet bodice with lace revers on the
sleeves ; muslin coif, stiff, and trimmed with black velvet.

BARNABE, MADAME {La Timhale d: Argent). Short
skirt of sky-blue cashmere, with five graduated rows of black
velvet ; low blue bodice cut in tabs round the waist, trimmed
with black velvet, showing a low linen chemisette above,
bordered with blue ruching ; muslin apron trimmed to match ;
black kid shoes with black straps across the instep, and buckles.
The hair turned back and entwined with blue scarf.

BADRABADOUR, PRINCESS {Arabian^ Nights).
Amber satin skirt, opening over under-dress and bodice of pale
blue satin, embroidered with gold and made with tight amber
sleeves, and hanging blue satin ones outside ; red scarf
draped about hips ; hair in two long plaits, blended with pearls ;

n,

i.W:^^oM>AM>)i;x^.

1 . %rulo^'

0. &WiAi'V Jiaeoru'.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 29

gold and pearl ornaments ; red scarf turban round the head ;
blue shoes, embroidered with silver.

BARRY, MADAME DU. (1715-1748.) Court dress
of Louis XV. 's reign, generally pink and white. Pointed low
bodice with stomacher, silk revers at the top, lace and muslin
within ; a garland of roses from the right shoulder ; brocaded
train over a petticoat, trimmed with lace and pearls ; sleeves
to elbow and ruffles ; ornaments pearls. Hair powdered and
worn over high cushion, curls at the back, with pearls and pink
roses intermixed. In Dumas' play of Joseph Balsamo this
character appeared in a Court dress with paniers, the bodice
cut in a long point, the brocaded dress trimmed with bouquets
of roses and silver flowers, the corselet with diamonds, a
cordon of roses across the bodice from right to left.

BASKET OF DAFFODILS. Low bodice of gold
basket-work over a moss-green satin ; skirt same shade of
satin with bunches of daffodils ; same in hair.

BASKET OF VIOLETS. Skirt of violet satin, plain
and short, covered with straw in trellis pattern, with green
moss peeping out between the trellis ends on the hips. The
space below waist is filled in with perfumed artificial violets,
sewn close together, white, dark, and light, intermixed with
moss and leaves ; bodice, violet satin, hidden by violets and
green leaves ; wreath of violets and leaves ; and a half hoop
of straw passes over the head with a bow on one shoulder.
This forms the handle of the basket, firmly fixed and immove-
able. Violet fan and ornaments, long gloves.

BASQUE PEASANT. Short kilted skirt of red flannel ;
embroidered and striped stomacher of same, showing beneath
black jacket trimmed with gold ; or light blue bodice and
tunic bordered with green ; bodice laced with gold cord ; red
stockings with blue garters ; lace cap ; head-dress blue ; droop-
ing bag attached to black velvet band worn over white lace
cap ; gold brooch, cross and earrings. For a bridal dress this
could be carried out in white satin with high lace cap.

BATH, WIFE OF {Chaucer). Short striped scarlet
petticoat, green over-dress, pinned together at back; large
apron, the gathers arranged in honeycomb smocking from
waist to the depth of five inches, the same on the upper part
of the sleeves made of green like the tunic ; bodice cut
square, showing chemisette of linen. Hair in net, with

c 2

30 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

kerchief knotted beneath the chin and fastened with orna-
mental pins ; over this a rough beaver hat turning up on one
side, peaked at the other, a feather round the crown ; riding-
whip and spurs, distaff in other hand.

BATILDE, COUNTESS {Olivette). Crimson velvet
bodice and train cut in one, and embroidered in gold and
silver, over a Princess dress of light grey satin, richly em-
broidered ; puffed sleeves of velvet ; a Medici collar ; large
felt hat and feather.

BAVARIAN PEASANT. Has a blue petticoat, trim-
med with black and silver; a black velvet corselet bodice, laced
across with silver, over a white under-bodice ; white apron ;
black hat, with gold braid and tassels, and silver ornaments ;
a turn-down ruffle of lace at throat, a coloured handkerchief
beneath, crossed in front. Hair in long plaits surmounted by
round black cap, or a low-crowned black felt hat, with silver
tassel ; massive silver necklace studded with bright-coloured
stones ; white stockings, buckled shoes ; and mittens. In
Algan, in Bavaria, the women wear a curious wheel-shaped
black head-dress, placed on the back of the head, with long
broad black ribbon streamers depending from the back. They
are made of black gauze on a wire foundation, trimmed with
black lace and satin ruches ; the size varies according to the
age of the wearer, and the shape is of ancient origin. {See
German.)

BAYADERE, LA PETITE. Princess dress of white
or some bright-coloured cashmere bordered with rows of braid
and gold embroidery ; low red velvet bodice, short cashmere
under-bodice, white lace revers turning over top of jacket, long
white sleeves ; black cap with aigrette.

BAYONNE FISHWIFE. {See Fish Girls.)

BEADLE PARISIENNE. Watteau overskirt of pink
satin, cut square at neck, and showing a silver cloth stomacher;
petticoat of grey satin, slashed with silver cloth, and having
two gathered flounces ; pink satin shoes with high grey heels ;
grey satin hat, worn on the side of the head over powdered
hair, with pink ribbons.

BEATRICE D'ESTE, DUCHESS OF MILAN.

Long skirt of rich brocade or velvet untrimmed ; bodice a low
square, edged with pearls and velvet, the sleeves slashed,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 3 1

showing white under-sleeves, straight and tight to wrist ; a
collarette round the throat, from which pearls fall on the
bodice. The hair is worn smooth, with a pearl fillet or coif.

BEATRICE {Much Ado about Nothing). Satin gown
touching the ground ; muslin apron bordered with Vandykes ;
low bodice slightly pointed, a kerchief inside ; a close-plaited
muslin ruff turned back, displaying the neck ; sleeves to elbow,
puff at shoulder, and caught up inside the arm with a button.
The hair in curls ; pointed satin hat worn at the back of head.
At the Lyceum Theatre, 1882, Beatrice wore an over-dress of
gold and terra-cotta brocade opening straight down the front
over a petticoat of the two colours. The over-dress was bordered
with gold, the stomacher matching the petticoat, the sleeves
high at the shoulder, full to the elbow, with lace ruffles and
lace rabato at throat. Knot of crimson ribbon in the hair. 2nd
Dress : Travelling robes of stamped pale green plush, jewelled
girdle, white satin puffed sleeves and under-skirt, quilted in
large patterns. 3rd Dress : White and gold brocaded dress,
over white satin under-dress, slashed sleeves.

BEAUTY {Beauty and the Beast, and Beauty Sleepiiig.
See Boys' and Girls' Fancy Costumes, Appendix).

BEE. Short skirt of black and yellow or yellow and brown
plush in horizontal stripes ; black velvet bodice edged and
striped with gold, made as a deep cuirass, or as a coat, with
tails having the m.arkings of a bee ; long sleeves, and gloves ;
wings of yellow gauze bordered with gold, or of white gauze
veined with gold, distended on wire attached to back ; black
velvet cap to imitate the head and antennas of the insect,
or formed as a large bee ; black high-heeled shoes with yellow
bows ; yellow and black striped stockings. Wasp is a similar
dress, but the stripes are more decided. Velvet and satin
or plush are suitable materials. It is sometimes rendered
with a skirt of puffed green tulle and bands of black velvet at
intervals. {See also Hornet, Coloured Illustration, No. VII.)

BEE, BUSY. Short skirt of black and gold striped satin,
the stripes about 8 inches wide, and over each, a double box
plait of black or yellow tulle. The skirt may be edged with
a fringe of tinsel balls. A pointed sleeveless bodice of gold
plush cut low, edged with small gold balls ; a pair of wmgs
in the centre of the back, of black tulle, stretched on wire,
veined and spotted with gold spangles ; a small cap imitating

32 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

a bee's head with eyes and antennae. In the hand a gold
wand surmounted by a miniature bee-hive.

BEE, QUEEN. Skirt, puffings of yellow tulle to re-
semble a bee-hive ; small coloured flounces at the hem giving
an appearance of fulness. (Bees are dotted about the skirt.)
The back of skirt to represent body of insect, made in gold
and brown satin, with a panel of sweet-smelling and honey-
giving flowers at each side ; low bodice, golden brown velvet
over white tulle chemisette, worked in honeycomb edged at
the neck with bees ; long transparent gauze wings fastened
to the shoulders with jewelled bees. A bee nestling among
flowers for head-dress ; gold and striped brown stockings and
shoes, with bee on instep.

BEETLES, QUEEN OF. Short black skirt with
horizontal stripes of red and yellow ; the same combination
carried round the top of the black bodice ; a black pointed cap,
the whole covered with ever-moving toy beetles. A sceptre in
the hand, surmounted by a beetle.

BEGUM. Full plaited skirt of fine Indian muslin, the
edges bound with silver braid, long drapery on the head of
same ; belt round waist ; slippers embroidered in silver.

BELLA DI TIZIANO. {See Venetian.)

BELLE, LA, DAME SANS MERCI. {See Keats'
ballad.) Long mediaeval robe of blood-red sateen, with a
mantle fastened from the shoulders of the same colour ; the
bodice rounded at the neck, and rather low ; a thick gold
torque at throat ; the robe is cut in one and moulded to the
figure, the sleeves full and long. The garland for the head,
the bracelets, and " fragrant zone," should be made of grasses
and wild flowers ; the hair left loose and floating ; a branch
of some wild-berried plant in the hand ; no gloves.

BELLENDEN, EDITH. {Old Mortality. See E.)

BELLE OF THE RACECOURSE. Plain short
skirt of bright coloured satin, with a race ridden by jockeys
painted round it ; striped satin jacket; jockey cap; loops of
ribbon to match the petticoat on the shoulders ; horse shoe pin,
riding boots, whip and betting book, flag-shaped fan of the
colours worn.

BELLE STRATAGEM. {See Hardy, Miss Letitia.)

WH\T TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. ^^

BELLE OF THE VILLAGE. A pretty French
peasant's dress with striped short skirt, bibbed apron, kerchief,
high musHn cap, and dainty flowers on cap and apron. Blue,
white, and red, suitable colours.

BEPPA {La Bonne Aventure). Short pink skirt, made
with three black flounces headed by network of black velvet ;
close fitting high bodice pointed at the waist, and coming on
the shoulders ; senorita jacket with gold epaulettes trimmed
with gold ball fringe. Bandoline carried in hand. Hair
dressed with high comb and red roses. Stockings pink;
shoes black, with high heels.

BERENGARIA OF NAVARRE {Wife of Richard L
1189-1199). Satin skirt, the front embroidered with the
arms of England, bordered with ermine ; long cuirass bodice,
jewelled and embroidered stomacher, top and edge of cuirass
outlined with ermine ; sleeves tight to wrist ; regal velvet
mantle bordered with ermine from shoulders. Fair hair loose
and flowing ; gauze gold-edged veil ; royal crown. A loose
bodice is more historically correct, but is seldom worn.
The robe may be made of fawn silk, long and plain. The
fulness put in at the neck, and falling straight to the feet,
.without much extra width in the skirt, and fastened at the
back, embroidered all over with a diapered pattern, or waving
crossed hues in dull gold-coloured silk. A collar of gold round
the throat, jewelled with pearls, and a girdle of the same about
the waist. The sleeves cut rather tight to half-way below the
elbow, then hanging in very long points. From the shoulders
a royal mantle of tawny red plush or velvet, lined with fawn
satin ; shoes of plush or velvet of the same colour as the
mantle. Gold circlet on head, and the hair flowing free.

BERGERE. {See Shepherdess.)

BERNE, BERNESE PEASANT OF. {See Swiss,
Coloured Illustration, No. XIII.)

BERTRADE {Heloise and Abelard). Valois costume :
short skirt, perpendicularly striped with velvet; tunic, and low
square bodice, deep hanging sleeves, bordered with velvet,
others tight - fitting, of contrasting colour beneath, velvet
aumoniere at side ; white muslin kerchief inside ; high stiff
pointed Valois head-dress matching tunic, striped with velvet;
pendent tulle veil attached. This costume is carried out in

34 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

two colours ; maize and blue, or black ; white and blue, or
pink ; gold cross and earrings.

BETTINA {La Mascotte, Piedmontese Peasant), Short
blue skirt, brown tunic, white under bodice with elbow sleeves
and turnback cuffs ; low brown over-bodice laced in front ;
straw hat and flowers. 2nd costume : a Princess dress of silk
with brocade intermixed, puffs at the top of the sleeves ;
bodice low, square ; with pointed cap having gold trimming.

BETTY, MY LADY. Quilted petticoat ; tunic of velvet
or brocade ; long, pointed, low bodice ; powdered hair with
pearls and rosebuds ; mittens ; high-heeled shoes.

BIRDS. Representation of birds are very popular at the
present day. {See Bullfinch, Canary, Cockatoo, Cock
Robin, Crow, Duck, Parrot, Raven, Snipe, Sparrow,
Stork, Swallow, What-a-tail, &c.) They are mostly
carried out with feather bodices and wings, over tulle or satin
skirts ; a cap like the head of the bird.

BLACK-EYED SUSAN. Short full skirt of blue serge
or blue linen or unbleached linen ; full-banded bodice, with
tblue sailor collar and cuffs ; black silk handkerchief tied in
rsailor's knot in front ; black tarpaulin sailor's hat, with a bunch
<of white flowers. It is also rendered by a short chintz dress,
white muslin cap and apron, coloured kerchief knotted over
:the shoulders.

BLACK FOREST, PEASANTS OF. A red skirt,
with bands of green curiously plaited at the waist ; a long
'white apron, white under-bodice and sleeves; low square black
velvet bodice, laced with silver over scarlet plastron ; tall black
*or straw hat; hair in long plaits, black silk head-dress with
pendent black ribbons, and ends at the back. Near Kintzig
and elsewhere the black velvet bodice is supplemented by a
yoke-piece of black velvet on the shoulders, with silver em-
broidery. The head-dresses differ in different parts. Some
. are round, placed at the back of the head, bordered with lace
.and full ; some have a black bow, like the Alsatians.

tBLANCHISSEUSE. {See Washerwoman.)

BLANCHE REINE (LA). Dress a la Marie Stuart,
made in white silk or satin and pearls ; the Marie Stuart cap
and veil. {See Plate VIII., Fig. 29.)

BLANCHE OF CASTILLE. A white satin skirt and
bodice, embroidered with crescents, lilies of the valley, and

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 35

white roses ; black satin mantle powdered with silver stars and
pearls; jewelled girdle; pearl pouch at the side; tiara of
pearls and silver stars ; white tulle wimple. Handsome bands
of gold ; brocade suitable.

BLUEBELL. Blue dress trimmed with leaves and blue-
bells ; cap like a bluebell, made of satin. Or a more elaborate
costume as follows : — Short and narrow blue silk skirt, cut in
deep scallops at the edge and framed on wire; the low blue
bodice scalloped at the neck and sleeves, showing under-bodice
of pale yellow, laced across with blue cord ; blue shoes and
stockings ; cap of silk in the form of the flower with green
stalk ; hair flowing ; basket on arm ; bluebells of Scotland
about dress. {See also Flowers.)

BLUEBELLS OF SCOTLAND. Sky-blue tulle with
bluebells ; bunch of berries and ivy-leaves with wreath of
bluebells.

BLUE CHINA. {See China.)

BLUE COAT DRESS. (Worn by a woman.) Short
blue cloth skirt with leather belt ; quaint short-waisted bodice
to match ; fastened with gold buttons. Muslin band at throat.
(Plate H., Fig. 6.)

BLUETTE. Cream satin short skirt draped with blue
gauze caught up with bluettes which border the hem of the
skirt, belt made of trellis work of velvet over pink satin; bodice
of blue satin hke petals, gauze fichu forming sleeves ; tied up
v/ith the flowers as epaulettes ; bluettes on the head. {See
Flowers.)

BLUE GIRLS OF CANTERBURY CHARITY.

Dress of blue twill or serge, with mob caps and aprons.

BOADICEA. Classic dress of soft blue, red, and yellow
woollen stuff, bordered with gold ; bodice full, cut in one
with skirt, and confined at waist with gold girdle; cloak fastened
with a brooch on either shoulder, no sleeves ; gold torque ;
hair flowing, confined by gold circlet ; spear or diadem in
hand.

BOATING DRESS. {See Black-eyed Susan.)

BOHEMIAN GIRL. (6"^^ Arline.)

BOHEMIENNE. Short black satin skirt edged with

36 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

black grelots and gold fringe and coins ; large ornamental
pattern of gold, worked up the front and sides ; above this a
scarf of black lace, almost covered by a tunic of scarlet and
gold ; Oriental silk tunic, pointed on one side, and knotted on
the other ; low black body, cut square, trimmed with gold
chains and coins ; handkerchief of the same red and gold
material, tightly tied round the head ; black stockings em-
broidered with gold spangles and shoes en suite. Or short
black satin skirt bordered with gold braid and coins ; crimson
satin tunic ornamented with gold butterflies and stars ; black
and crimson satin jacket, with coins; crimson satin head-
dress with gold sequins; anklets and necklets of gold coins.
Tambourine. {See Gipsy.)

BOLEYN, ANNE. {See A.)

BONBONNIERE. Short red, white, and blue skirt ; low
square bodice of crimson, trimmed across the front with blue;
muslin apron and cap, with blue and red ribbons ; a basket of
bonbons in the hand, and a pair of scales. Another rendering
is a dress of lemon-coloured tulle, trimmed with lace and French
bonbons. Another: Short cream satin skirt trimmed with bands
of pink, chocolate, and gold , pink and chocolate striped upper
skirt, ribbons at side, pink satin bodice gored. Muslin chemi-
sette, cap of same, powdered hair ; basket of sweets in hand.

BO-PEEP. A short skirt, bunched-up tunic, black velvet
low bodice, laced in front with coloured ribbons over white
muslin, short sleeves ; straw hat and coloured ribbon streamers
and flowers, sometimes replaced by black cocked hat in velvet;
crook, tied with bunch of ribbons ; a toy lamb may be car-
ried under arm ; black shoes, coloured heels and stockings ;
large blue apron may be added. This can be carried out
in silk, satin, or cotton, with brocaded or chintz tunic. Hair
powdered or not, as preferred. Walter Crane's rendering ot
Bo-Peep is as follows : — The bodice yellow, full and rather
low in the neck, where it is gathered into a band ; the upper
skirt of blue cotton is full and looped up over a bright pink
under skirt, which is just long enough to leave the yellow-clad
ankles and feet clearly visible ; folded yellow waistband ; the
hat is a Dolly Varden shape in straw, trimmed with flowers or
bows, and tied on to the head with a piece of pink or blue
ribbon; the crook ornamented with a bunch of blue, pink,
and yellow ribbons.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 37

BOTHWELL, COUNTESS OF. Coloured satin
train over white satin skirt, embroidered in gold,-coloured
satin; pointed bodice trimmed with gold; high ruff; pearl
ornaments ; Marie Stuart head-dress.

BOULANGERE, LA BELLE. Orange silk skirt,
short, covered with white lace, headed byruching; low bodice,
pointed in front, the back cut in one with the train, made
of striped satin and bunched up; elbow sleeves; lace apron
with bib and cap. A fan hangs at one side, at the other a
hook with baker's " mark-boards."

BOULE DE NEIGE (A White J^ose). Dress of
frosted tulle over white satin, the front a mass of white roses,
without leaves, set in puffings of white tulle, spangled with
dewdrops. Tunic of frosted tulle, bordered with rose-leaves,
and caught up with roses, rosebuds, and leaves. Long white
satin bodice and waistcoat of silver brocade, edged with green
leaves ; a cluster of white roses on left of bodice. Long white
gloves, with three bands of small rose-leaves, tuft of rosebuds
and leaves at the top of each ; fan of green leaves, scattered
over with rose-petals ; wreath of white roses and leaves. A
few white petals about the hair. Or white muslin kilted skirt,
satin Princess polonaise, trimmed with balls of swansdown
which also form bertha to low bodice ; necklace, snow balls ;
cap and veil.

BOULOGNE FISH GIRLS. {See Fish Girls.)

BOUQUETIER (Louts XV.). Coat of biscuit broche
silk, bound with garnet velvet ; buttons to match; lace cravat;
gilt basket of flowers slung round the figure with velvet ;
short plaited skirt.

BOUQUETIER IN WATTEAU'S TIME. Striped
skirt and full bodice with long basques and sleeves, fichu of
muslin over the bust, white muslin cap with frill.

BOURBONNAISE, LA BELLE. Yellow short skirt,
bound with black. Blue overskirt, low black velvet bodice,
with long sleeves and laced in front. A straw hat at the back
of the head, trimmed with black velvet and red roses ; silver
arrow in the hair, violin carried in the hand.

BOURGEOISE {of Louis XV. tifne). Grey silk skirt,
having lace flounces ; pink over-dress and mantle, showing grey

38 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

Stomacher; pink shoes, with diamond buckles ; grey stockings;
head-dress of Brussels lace and pink ribbons ; diamond orna-
ments.

BRADWARDINE, ROSE (IVaver/ey). Costume of
last century ; train from shoulders, and low-pointed bodice of
old brocade, satin, or velvet, over quilted petticoat ; small
satin hat, with roses and feathers ; powdered hair.

BRANKSOME, LADY OF {Lay of the Last Min-
strel), Long velvet train over satin petticoat ; richly trimmed
or embroidered sleeves ; slashed high bodice, with lace ruff
covered with jewels ; jewelled coronet and veil.

BRENDA AND MINNA TROIL {The Pirate). Good
costumes for two sisters. Minna, dark, proud, and sad ;
Brenda, fair and glad. The scene is laid in 1724, and the
dresses are of Norwegian type. Minna a short, amber petti-
coat trimmed with fringe ; a gold bronze velvet, low, square
bodice over white chemisette high to the throat ; hair hanging
in two long plaits, amber handkerchief knotted about it. Or
pale amber silk sacque over petticoat of cream quilted satin,
ruffles to sleeves, kerchief And apron of old lace, double
falling ruff at neck, and snood of yellow ribbon. Brenda, same
in salmon and cinnamon. Minna may also wear a riding-
dress, with cavalier hat and plume, and Brenda, blue skirt bound
with brown, full-sleeved chemisette bodice of cream colour,
w^ith old silver charms and clasps ; sleeveless jacket of pale
blue Indian silk; blue silk stockings, shoes of untanned leather;
flowing hair bound with old silver beads or ribbon.

BRETON. Short coloured skirt with horizontal rows of
black velvet to waist, or bordered with Breton embroidery ;
low Breton bodice laced, and short sleeves of contrasting
colour, showing high linen chemisette and long sleeves ; large,
square embroidered apron trimmed with silver fringe, and
oblong pockets ; black shoes, clocked stockings ; Breton lace
cap with flowers ; large silver Breton cross and ornaments on
black velvet. Any amount of embroidery and spangles
admissible. The form of bodice and cap will be best gleaned
from Plate II., Fig. 7. In the present day black cloth, silk,
or satin skirts are worn, showing a white cambric chemisette ;
above the waist an elaborately folded, starched and em-
broidered band with silver or gold ornament. Head-dress of
white cambric with bows and ends standing out at side,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 39

fastened with jewelled pins. But the head-dresses differ in the
several parishes. Petticoats of various hue are worn one over
the other, with vertical folds. Apron of embroidered cambric
on silk sabots.

BRIDAL COSTUME OF 16th CENTURY. Made
in white satin with flowing skirt, having two bands at the edge
of silver tinsel. High pointed bodice, with rows of jewels
in the front ; ruff at throat ; girdle round waist, tight sleeves
to wrist, with cuffs and epaulettes of fine lawn; straight
hanging sleeves from the shoulder ; hair combed from the face,
and gathered in a coronet, from this the veil descends.

BRIDES. {See Olivette, Oranges and Lemons,
Polish, German Peasant for Mecklenberg, and Starnberg.)

BRIDESMAIDS {Ruddigore). Short- waisted low silk
bodices, cut in one, with the tunics opening in front over
short skirts ; sashes tied in front ; long mittens, fastened with
bows above elbow.

BRIDE OF ABYDOS. Byron's heroine wears a rich
Greek dress. Short skirt bordered with gold ; bodice opening
over chemisette, striped with gold, red sash at waist ; long
Greek sleeveless casaque of velvet edged with embroidery ;
small satin toque at side of head, and covered with sequins ;
ornaments, sequins. Materials, satin and velvet. {See also
Greek.)

BRIGAND'S WIFE. Short stuff skirt with yellow, blue,
scarlet, and black stripes ; low square velvet bodice, basque in
tabs, and embroidered with gold, loose white sleeves to elbow,
and low square chemisette of jaconet muslin ; coins suspended
where they will droop, and also worn for ornaments ; striped
stockings ; black high-heeled shoes. Hair in two long plaits
with coloured ribbons and coins entwined ; black peaked hat
and feathers. The bodice is sometimes a double-breasted
jacket, with revers and gold buttons ; white muslin tie and
ruffles.

BRIONNE, DOWAGER OF. {See D, and Coloured
Illustration, No. IV.)

BRISTOL RED-MAID. {See Charity-Girls.)

BRITANNIA. A gold helmet, trident, and shield, with
Royal arms. The dress white and blue satin, with a steel
cuirass ; tunic worked with silver rose, shamrock, and thistle ;

40 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

blue mantle lined with crimson satin fastened on one side with
jewels ; silver belt with lion's head at waist. Or a white
cashmere flowing skirt, loose classic bodice and gold belt ;
a scarlet scarf fastened on left shoulder and floating on to
dress, or the Union Jack draped over it.

BRUNHILDA AND KRIEMHILDA {Niebels-
lungen Lied). Suitable for two sisters. They wear rich gold
stuffs made in Burgundian fashion of the thirteenth century.
Brunhilda would have under-dress of brocade, over-dress
of gold tissue caught up at the side ; low square bodice bor-
dered with jewels, jewelled stomacher, silver girdle ; sleeves
puffed at elbow and shoulder ; gold crown, hair in coil en-
twined with pearls. Kriemhilda : under-skirt of rich stuff*,
bordered with bands of gold ; upper-dress of embroidered
cloth of gold, bordered with ermine ; low bodice much
jewelled in front, long sleeves lined with ermine, and bound
with gold, tight sleeves to wrist; hair on shoulders, surmounted
by a crown.

BULGARIAN PEASANT. Short blue petticoat,
trimmed with bands of red and gold, over-skirt of pale blue
stuff" bordered and embroidered in three stripes with red, white,
and gold. The red velvet bodice, which is close-fitting, is cut
out heart-shape in front, the opening bordered with similar
embroidery, showing an under-bodice of white cashmere, also
embroidered heart-shape ; tight sleeves, with bands of em-
broidery at the shoulders and cuffs; sash of many colours
round the waist. In the country the unmarried girls wear
wreaths of flowers, and rows of gold coins about the neck,
a white embroidered scarf round the head. The married
women wear beads ; a belt with copper-gilt buttons. Helmet
shaped caps.

BULLFINCH. Grey velvet cap with bullfinch head;
corselet bodice of red feathers in front, grey velvet at back ;
short skirt of grey tulle with broad band of feathers or small
grey wings, looping up the tulle ; grey shoes with red heels
and grey stockings with red clocks.

BUNCH, MOTHER. {See Mother Hubbard.)

BUNCH OF KEYS. A long black dress on which
gilt paper keys are sewn at intervals. A bunch of keys are
suspended at' the waist. The head-dress, necklace, and ear-
rings are made of gilt paper.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 4 1

BURMESE PEASANT. Short, narrow petticoat with
tight tunic, so tight it is ahnost impossible to sit down. The
under-skirt is of a rough material in various colours ; the
upper is of black cotton velvet, embroidered in colours. The
loose bodice is cut in one with the tunic, and opens at the
neck to show a white low chemisette. Beads are worn round
the neck ; the sleeves come half way to the elbow ; a large,
gracefully twisted scarf encircles the head, a black pointed hat
is worn in the country, and a profusion of beads.

BURNEY, MISS FANNY {Lady-in-waiting to Queen
Charlotte). Yellow satin petticoat, trimmed with brown fur ;
pale blue train, and stiff, straight low bodice ; powdered hair ;
feathers; pearl ornaments. {^See Arblay, Madame d'.)

BUSY BEE. {See Bee.)

BUTTERCUP. Yellow satin dress of brocaded gauze,
the cap made in yellow satin with green calyx to resemble
a buttercup ; black stockings and gloves. Or dress of tulle of a
vivid yellow, showered with buttercups ; cuirass bodice of
green satin, fringed with buttercups ; at the right side a
cluster of yellow satin ribbons. Yellow satin shoes and
stockings; hair studded with buttercups; ornaments, buttercups.

BUTTERCUPS AND DAISIES. Short white satin
dress, arranged to represent petals of buttercups and daisies,
and caught up with garlands and wreaths of the same flowers ;
wreath of same on head ; basket of the same carried in hand.
Or plain petticoat of buttercup-coloured satin, brocaded tunic,
with a design of buttercups. Or pale green robe, dotted over
with buttercups, daisies, clover, &c. ; broad sash similarly
treated ; round the waist grass fringe to edge of sash and skirt ;
pointed bodice, short sleeves ; brown velvet robings of the
same ; bouquet of field flowers ; bees embroidered on lemon-
coloured shoes ; gloves, fan, &c. {See Flowers.)

BUTTERCUP, LITTLE {Pinafore). Old fashioned
straw bonnet, print gown, a black and red shawl pinned across
the shoulders.

BUTTERFLY, A. Short white satin skirt, covered with
clouds of brown, pink, and blue tulle. Flight of butterflies
all over it. Wings of blue gauze, and the antennae in the
head-dress. White silk stockings and white shoes. Butterfly
on each. (See Appendix ; and for Canadian Butterfly,
Coloured Illustration XVI.)

42 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

BUTTERFLY, GOLDEN. Short skirt and low
bodice of yellow merveilleuse, draped with tinsel gauze, trimmed
with yellow, jet, and gold butterflies; gauze scarf; butterfly and
feather head-dress, yellow shoes and stockings.

BUTTERFLIES, QUEEN OF. Tulle dress covered
with butterflies ; black velvet tunic shaped and pointed like
wings ; low bodice, with bands of gold across the front, blue
gauze wings attached to back ; short sleeves, with butterflies ;
a butterfly on the head ; black shoes with blue butterflies.
The following is a pretty rendering : White tulle dress,
puffed and bouillonneed, with scarf of pale blue satin caught
together in loops at back, bordered with tinsel fringe, dotted
all over with butterflies ; also bodice ; a large one on each
shoulder; wreath of butterflies and white veil with butterflies
upon it ; gold wand in hand with butterfly a-top ; pale blue
fan with butterflies. Or, dress of brown velvet, front made
with robings of brown and gold brocade; large gold and
brown wings ; hair dressed high above the face, surmounted
by cap like antennae; brown gloves, shoes, and stockings. For
the Queen, the dress would be similar, of bluish silken tissue,
the tunic cut in the shape of a butterfly's wings; a jewelled
zone round the waist ; wand carried in the hand.

BUY-A-BROOM. Also called Marchande de Balais ;
should be carried out in bright colours, such as blue and white.
Short blue and white skirt, poppy-coloured tunic, and loose
bed-gown bodice with belt round waist. Or ordinary square
bodice of silk, satin, or chintz ; sleeves to elbow turned up
with muslin ; muslin kerchief, cap, and apron, with cerise bows;
hair in plaits, or straw hat with red and blue ribbons ; small
brooms in hand, and dispersed about the dress ; high-heeled
shoes, blue striped stockings, mittens. Originally this cha-
racter was represented by a Dutch peasant as follows : Full
short skirt of dark woollen material ; square cut bodice with
shoulder straps over a white chemisette, with long loose
sleeves ; a stomacher shaped like a shield on front of bodice,
covered with gold drops and spangles. Head-dress of scarlet
cloth, like an inverted saucepan ; girdle of scarlet embroidered
cloth ; white stockings, black shoes and buckles.

CABARETIERE. Short skirt of striped black and
amber ; blue tunic, turned up on either side. Low black
velvet pointed bodice, laced at back, short sleeves. White

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS.

satin plastron, barred with black velvet, edged with blue and
amber. Muslin apron, trimmed with the two colours, turned
up on left side. High cap of goffered muslin and black velvet.
Tankard and key at side. Gold cross and earrings.

CALABRIAN BRIGAND GIRL, Striped petticoat
of red, blue, and green cloth, the front breadth embroidered ;
brown velvet jacket ; red waistcoat ; high hat of brown velvet,
trimmed with red and green ribbons and cocks' feathers;
stiletto at side.

CALVADOS, FISH-GIRL OF. {See Fish-girl.)

CAMARGO. A dancer at the Opera in Louis XV.'s time
gave her name to the costume she wore, viz., a short blue
skirt, with cross bars of black velvet ; bodice of figured silk,
half-high, with folds of muslin coming across the neck and
tucked into the front stomacher ; black velvet and blue silk
ruches carried round the top of bodice. Short sleeves with
frills of plaited muslin and blue ruching round. Bunched
up tunic of figured silk.

CAMBRIDGE. Dress of cream-coloured satin, trimmed
with sashes and scarves of Cambridge blue satin ; the Cam-
bridge coat of arms on left shoulder ; flowers, forget-me-nots
and primroses.

CAMILLE {Le Beau Nicholas). Short skirt of crimson
and yellow satin, striped and bordered with frilling ; yellow
satin bodice with elbow sleeves ; white silk bibbed apron,
tied beneath the puff at the back, and bordered with black
velvet ; large Leghorn hat, with black velvet strings ; flesh
coloured stockings and white satin shoes. Or pale blue satin
with cream lace and wreath of roses ; cream lace apron ; straw
granny bonnet trimmed with pale blue ; mittens to match.

CAM MA {The Cup). Sea-green peplum of soft Indian
silk, gemmed and embroidered in gold, green, and scarlet :
chiton embroidered and fringed with gold ; bodice in regular
folds, sleeves long, fastened with studs to elbow ; white coif
bound with golden cord, worn over golden curls ; sceptre in
hand ; bracelets ; wash-leather shoes ; hair arranged like
Venus of Milo. As a priestess : Golden satin chiton ; gemmed
peplum in green, scarlet, and gold ; diamond diadem ; saffron
veil.

CAM PAN, MADAME, Maid of honour to Marie

D

44 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

Antoinette. White satin petticoat trimmed with gold ; train
and bodice of pale blue satin, trimmed with maroon satin ;
tight, long sleeves ; bodice half-high, with lace fichu ; powdered
hair, and feathers ; gold ornaments.

CANADA. AVhite skirt and white plush jacket, trimmed
with puffings of silver tulle and cloth of silver ; a blue scarf
round hips, edged with silver sleigh-bells. } The jacket braided
and frogged with silver; wreath of maple leaves and rowan
berries across bodice; blue scarf, caught up on shoulder
with Canadian blue-bird. Blue cap after Scotch shape,
trimmed with swansdown, embroidered with silver; hair
powdered; blue satin muff, small bird at side. Insignias
round waist : snowshoes, toboggans, canoe skates, and tobacco
pouch. Or, a classic robe of white with a wreath of maple
leaves round the bodice. Head-dress, maple wreath with hair
flowing, or a helmet with maple leaves and effigy of Peace and
the beaver. In left hand oval shield representing Union
Jack, about 2 feet high, " Canada " inscribed in centre.
Another rendering is the dress worn in the country, made
of blanket flannel with many coloured striped border;
epaulettes on shoulder of the stripes ; bright crimson sash ;
a cap of dressed beaver skin.

CANADIAN RINKING COSTUME. The same
as the first description of Canada, but made entirely in blue,
with muff.

CANADIAN SNOW-WREATH. White tulle skirt,
blue tunic and bodice, all covered with tufts of swansdown,
looped with scarlet flowers and green leaves. White tulle veil
with swansdown tufts ; wreath of swansdown, spray of scarlet
flowers.

CANAL, SUEZ. Long flowing robe of cloth-of-gold,
with waves of blue satin bordered with pearls ; under-skirt of
red satin embroidered in Egyptian designs. A gold key at the
girdle ; Egyptian head-dress of pearls, turquoise, and diamonds ;
girdle of roses and lilies.

CANARY BIRD. Dress of yellow plush or satin, with
canaries on the shoulder, the bird's head forming the cap.
Sometimes the yellow satin is embroidered in pearls, and
canaries are scattered all over the dress.

CANDOUR, MRS. {School for Scandal). This character

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 45

wears rich heavy materials, plush and brocade, made with a
sacque ; elbow sleeves, pointed bodice ; and in the course of
the play dons a hood and mantle. Dark green and purple are
suitable colours.

CANTINIERE. One white stocking, one red and
yellow ; short black dress, white apron, full low bodice with
pink and yellow bands ; white handkerchief twisted about the
head.

CANTONEER. Short skirt of striped silk; blue coat
trimmed with gold braid, red satin collar and cuffs ; scarlet
sash, gold fringe at ends.

CARDS, PACK OF. A favourite dress, carried out in
varied fashion. Dress of yellow, claret, and blue satin or
velvet, with square bodice and wide sleeves, bordered with
hearts, spades, diamonds, and clubs. A coronet of same on
head. The cards printed on white silk round skirt.

The Queens of the several packs wear long velvet or silver
lisse dresses of mediaeval make, with ermine and gold crowns
and sceptres ; or white ball-dresses ; or quilted skirts, with
velvet tunics and bodices, and powdered hair ; the insignias
of the several suits appearing in velvet or jewels about the
dresses, ornaments, and the crowns on the heads.

Queen of Hearts. Robes of violet velvet, with ermine;
gold crown, gauze veil ; a heart on the crown, front of the
dress, and on the sceptre.

Queen of Clubs. Old gold satin dress, trimmed with deep
pink and ermine ; clubs in black velvet scattered about ; gold
crown. Or a pink satin dress covered with black velvet clubs,,
forming the stomacher to the bodice and the crown.

Queen of Spades. Prune velvet with ermine, which bot-
dersthe long skirt, the jacket bodice, and long sleeves, forming
revers in front, and a portion of the head-dress, with a ckite' .
over the forehead. ^^^ *^^

Queen of Diamonds. Gold crown; bodice and skirt, dark
blue velvet ; band of white satin all round, on which is a row of
diamonds in blue velvet, as also on front of dress.

Sometimes the dresses are copied from those quaint and
curious playing cards which depict famous actresses in their
several roles. Or any of the Queens might be carried out as

D 2

46 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

follows, with their respective insignias : — Short white satin skirt,
trimmed with tulle and bands of black and red velvet, with
diamonds, spades, hearts, or clubs in velvet between. Square
bodice and elbow sleeves, draped round with tulle, caught
down with the pips. On each sleeve painted a facsimile of
the card represented ; the same up the front of gown, placed
slantwise and bordered with gold. Small black satin clubs
put into the lace tucker at equal distances, one fastening the
piece of lace round the neck. The gloves white, with a
miniature queen of club card painted on the back ; the head-
dress a turban of red and gold, with a large black satin club
on the left side, fastening a small white feather, turned over
the front of the turban. The fan white satin, painted to
match, a row of black clubs at the top. Or a black and white
dress with the queen of club card on the left side of the
bodice, put into noeuds of white satin ribbon and lace. The
white satin under-skirt composed of kiltings of white satin,
black velvet, and white lace. Tunic of white satin, covered
with clubs in black velvet and silver tissue. Square-cut bodice

with basque, and very short sleeves of black velvet, trimmed
with white lace and silver ; the queen of club card on the left

:side. Black velvet round the throat; the long white gloves

-embroidered with silver clubs ; a crown of silver clubs mounted
on black velvet ; shoes of white satin, with a black velvet
club on the instep, fan of white satin edged with silver and

}lace, in the form of a large club, a smaller one in silver in the
centre.

The " Queen of Diamonds " is sometimes represented by
-Gabrielle d'Estree, time Henry IV. {See G). — The " Queen of
Hearts" by the Duchess de la Valliere, time Louis XIV.
{See V).— The " Queen of Clubs " by the Duchess d'Estampes
(6"^^ period Francis I.) — "Queen of Spades" by Odette,
;period Charles VI. {See O).

CARMEN {heroine of Bizefs Opei'd). In first scene wears
a Spanish dress, short skirt, forming three tunics, white, blue,
.and red, all trimmed with gold braid, the top covered with
-a lattice-work of gold braid ; white muslin loose bodice,
short red or black satin Senorita jacket over it ; black mantilla.
.Second dress (a gipsy costume), short skirt of Armenian em-
broidery in all colours, arranged Avith bands of the same at the
iback. MusHn bodice ; Spanish jacket of silver cloth, with

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 47

short and pendant sleeves. Necklace of many rows of silver
coins ; armlets and bracelets of the same. Head-dress,
silver braid, coins, and roses of three colours. Third dress
(a brigand woman), short stuff petticoat, striped blue, yellow,
black, and red ; scarf of same draped round it. Yellow waist-
coat, brown Senorita jacket, with long sleeves, trimmed with
black ball fringe. Linen cuffs and collars, blue necktie,
red handkerchief tied about head. Round Spanish cap
(black). Fourth costume, exquisite Spanish lady's dress, short
white satin skirt, with three rows of gold blonde, headed by
bands of ruby satin, bordered with gold ; down the front bows
of gold braid tagged ; stay bodice of white satin, with gold
buttons, pointed back and front. Senorita jacket of ruby
satin, with long sleeves, gold blonde ruffles. Mantilla of
gold blonde, diamond ornaments, roses at the side. With
all but the brigand dress gold-embroidered stockings and
shoes. Prosper Merimee describes the wayward gipsy as
wearing a short black silk, with low bodice and short
sleeves, or square bodice with elbow sleeves, ])lain skirt^
rather full, black mantilla, and a great bunch of white jasmine
fastened high on the head. A large plain black fan, or
one of the cheap Spanish fans. Madame Dolaro wore in
the second act of the opera a short dress of blood-red cash-
mere, made with a full bodice, and a mere shoulder-strap
for sleeve; round this was wound three times, beginning
at the shoulder, a scarf of black gauze, with wide stripes
of gold. No ornaments but a scarlet flower placed high in
the hair. Red, black, and yellow, blue and silver, all good
combinations. Patti, in the first act, wore a short dress of
deep orange satin, trimmed with black chenille lace ; black
velvet Spanish jacket over a white chemisette ; bright green
sash and shoes ; black mantilla. In the second act, a gold
satin dress, embroidered with crimson flowers ; white silk
gauze bodice, long hanging gauze sleeves, sewn with red coins
and golden drops ; a black gauze scarf with silver stripes round
the hips. In the next act, dark blue and yellow striped
petticoat, a pointed band, red velvet jacket ; cap of black
velvet with scarlet. In the last scene, a short bright pink
skirt, cream silk tunic, embroidered with roses and pome-
granate blossoms ; light cherry-coloured velvet bodice with
bands of gold, white blonde mantilla over high comb, fastened
with roses, fan painted with Spanish bull-fight.

48 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

CARNATION. Bodice of carnation-coloured velvet,
low and plain ; sleeve made in the form of the flower, the
upper portion covering the shoulder, of green velvet. Skirt
of carnation velvet veiled with draperies of green tulle. Hat
resembles the flower, with green satin crown and carnation-
coloured frills.

CAROLINE, QUEEN OF GEORGE II. (1727-
1760.) White satin embroidered skirt, with hoop, train of
purple satin bordered with ermine, coming from shoulders
and looped across front with pearls and gold ; low pointed
bodice of same, with ermine and jewelled stomacher ; gold
girdle ; pendant sleeves ; diamond and gold ornaments, gold
crown.

CARRIER, PIGEON. Full white tulle skirt over
white satin skirt, with tunic in the shape of wings, composed
of white feathers ; pigeon in the hair and on shoulder. Band
of red ribbon across bodice from right shoulder to under left
arm, with letter attached; letters falling from feather fan;
head-dress, cap like pigeon's head. Pigeons on shoulder. {See
Plate II. Fig. 8.) Or another rendering is a dress of grey
cloth, the draperies caught up by pigeons, and the edges
bordered with feathers; the bodice entirely composed of
feathers. Pigeons in the hair. A letter suspended from the
waist by a red ribbon.

CARRIER, RURAL. Smocked linen frock ; bigsun-
bonnet ; small horn slung over shoulder, a whip in the hand.

CASSANDRA. Classical Dress {See Classic) of light
blue tone encircled with bay leaves.

CASTILIAN MAID. Pink satin petticoat, bordered
with gold gimp ; black velvet bodice, open in front, and laced
across a white chemisette with thick gold cord ; a small black
lace apron ; shoes of pale pink satin, with ribbon sandals ;
hat of black velvet, with ostrich plume, poised on one side of
head ; hair in two long plaits or fastened up in a coil. {See
Spanish.)

CAT. {See White Cat.)

CATERINA {Crown Diamonds). Riding-dress and coat
of brown velvet, trimmed with amber satin ; hair drawn oflf
from forehead, and slightly powdered ; large lace jabot, &c

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 49

CATHERINE DE MEDICI, Ample skirt of velvet
or rich brocade, just touching the ground, distended with hoops,
satin front breadth, jewelled bands of gold across. Bodice
pointed at waist, seams defined with jewels ; low stiff ruff on
wire foundation from shoulders. Sleeves to wrist in per-
pendicular puffings, full at top, and cuff turning upwards ;
over these, gossamer sleeves from shoulders to hem of dress.
Hair turned off face in roll ; diamond crown or coif after Marie
Stuart order, but not so pointed. Shoes broad-toed, sewn with
pearls. Yellow, red, and black favourite colours, and rich
arabesque brocades worn.

CATHERINE HOWARD. Dress of same period as
Catherine of Arragon {see below), rendered in brighter colour-
ing ; generally of rich flowered brocade ; the cap round, and
not so hood-like, showing more hair, or replaced by diamond
tiara. Train of velvet trimmed with pearls. Fur admissible.
The sleeve is distinctive ; tight at the shoulder, with wide
border of fur reaching almost to the knees; under sleeve
slashed and puffed to the waist, bounded by a ruffle. The
richly-wrought petticoat embroidered in cloth of gold. The
sleeves at this period were movable and distinct from dress.

CATHERINE OF ARRAGON. Dark velvet robe,
bordered with ermine, displaying satin or cloth of gold, front
breadth trimmed with pearls or rich embroidery. A low,
square, stay-like bodice to waist, with jewelled girdle ; broidered
stomacher with jewels. A satin habit-shirt, or partlet, worked
with gold and pearls, tight under-sleeves to match ; pendant
velvet sleeves, lined with ermine. Black velvet hood, with
triple-jewelled front ; gauze veil at back. Pointed velvet shoes,
slashed. The richest materials may be used, as well as black
velvet and white satin. A sprig of lavender carried in the hand.
Leslie painted the queen after her divorce wearing a dress
of dark green velvet or silk, shot with gold, the bodice cut
square and low, trimmed with a deep bordering of black
velvet, covering in front a third of the bodice, fastened with
jewels, attached to this a jewelled pendant and chain ; white
muslin apron ; the sleeves full, sewn into a piece at the
wrist, fitting the arm, opening on the outside with jewelled
links ; the hair dressed plain to the face, a velvet head-dress
rounded at the ears and falling at the back in heavy folds.

CATHERINE OF RUSSIA (as worn by Baroness

50 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

Brunnow at Queen's Fancy Ball, 1842). White satin skirt,
with pelisse of rose-coloured satin, trimmed with ermine,
having gold brodequins across the front ; round cap to match,
with jewelled aigrette; and heron's plume; long hanging
sleeves, tight ones beneath ; malachite ornaments. Blue ribbon
order.

CATHERINE PARR. Dress of cloth-of-gold, train
two yards long ; kirtle or petticoat of brocade ; pendent
sleeves, lined with crimson satin ; jewelled cross at neck ;
jewelled girdle. Hood head-dress, with crescent-shaped
coronet, a blaze of jewels. {See Catherine of Arragon.)

CATHERINE SEYTON (T/ie Abbot). Pale blue
satin petticoat, over-dress of blue velvet, open in front, studded
and embroidered with pearls. Stomacher of diamonds and
opals, high lace ruff. Blue velvet pointed head-dress, lisse
veil trimmed with pearls ; a jewelled girdle round the waists
Or white silk skirt, bordered with green velvet, and trimmed
en tablier with pearls ; low bodice, and ruff. Green velvet cap,
with pearls. Other colours may be used, and other gems.

CAUCHOISE. Short petticoat of red satin ; square
bodice and tunic striped blue and white, the sleeves puffed to
wrist. Apron and Cauchoise cap trimmed Avith Mechlin lace.
The latter high and pointed ; the lace fulled on in rows inter-
spersed with red bows. Gold cross and earrings ; blue striped
stockings ; black high-heeled shoes. {See Coloured Illustra-
tion of Normandy Peasant, XII.)

CECILY HOMESPUN {Hetr-at-Law, by George
Colman). Plain cotton tunic, and low bodice over short
petticoat of same ; muslin cap, kerchief, and apron. Made
in the style worn in George III. reign. {See George III.)

CELIA {As You Like It). A shepherdess with crook orna-
mented with roses. White silk short dress ; tunic and bodice
pale blue, all festooned with silver gauze, trimmed with silver
cord, blonde, and roses. Small satin hat, blue slippers, pink
roses on both. Also grey velvet robe and blue hat. See
Rosalind; or, ist Dress : Mousse green brocade with bands
of blue; flowing skirt, looped on one side, belt and bag, square
bodice bordered with blue ; puffed sleeves ; cap. 2nd Dress :
Red skirt ; the grey over-dress looped up on one side, square
bodice ; puffed sleeves.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 5 1

CERES. Dressed as Harvest {see H.), or after Flaxman.
Classic dress of maize-coloured cashmere bordered with gold>
trimmed with garlands of grapes, field-flowers, poppies, corn-
flowers, daisies, &c. ; the dress caught up in front to hold a
lapful of the same. Cornucopia full of fruit and flowers
carried in the hand ; or, short corn-coloured satin with corn
flowers and poppies. Sometimes the satin is veiled with gold
gauze, and chatelaines and garlands of grapes, wheat-ears, and
poppies intermixed. A cornucopia of the same flowers in the
hand. A child would represent the character in a short
maize tulle with full bodice, a garland of the above flowers
round the head, skirt, and waist ; a sickle in the hand.

CHAMPAGNE BOTTLE. Black velvet skirt ; cuirass
bodice of old gold satin, with black sleeves. On the head an
old gold and green satin cap with rows of gold braid, a large
white satin label on front of skirt, printed with " Jules Mumm,
Rheims. Very dry," or any suitable label. Or, skirt of olive
silk; cuirass bodice of gold tissue; taper waist; head-dress,,
green and gold, banded with wire.

CHAPERON ROUGE. French idea of Red Riding
Hood. Cerise satin petticoat, with black velvet stripes ; white
muslin chemisette, and bodice of black velvet, laced with
cerise ribbons ; white muslin apron ; small silk cap ; fancy
basket. {See Red Riding Hood).

CHARITY GIRLS. Of these there are several kinds,
Plate III., Fig. 9, illustrates the ordinary Foundling dress.
Short dark-blue or brown skirt, plain bodice with sleeves to-
elbow. Cambric tippet, with collar coming to waist, back and
front; sleevelets from elbow to knuckles, with place for thumb,
meeting dress sleeve. Cap with upstanding crown, high in front,
the lappet-piece with crimped border, turned up at ears. Blue
ribbon falling on tippet, with medal. At St. Botolph's School
the dress is dark green, dark green ribbon on cap ; amber
stockings and leather shoes. At St. Giles's-in-the-Fields and
Lady Owen's School the dress is light blue. Orphan Girl^
Soldiers' Home, Hampstead, red skirt and bodice, white muslin
tippet, cap and apron. Carleon Charity Girl wears blue and
yellow. The Bristol Red Maid wears a red short full dress to
ankles, bodice made with basque, long sleeves, linen cuffs out-
side, long linen apron and cape of jaconet ; mob cap tied with

52 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

blue ribbon ; grey stockings, low shoes, white cotton gloves.
{See Amsterdam Orphanage and Blue Girls of Can-
terbury, &c.)

CHARITY, SISTER OF. {See Geneva Sister.)

CHARLES I. PERIOD {Dress of), best seen in Van-
dyke's pictures. Costumes as worn by Queen Henrietta
Maria and Court, plain satin or velvet skirt full, touching
ground; short-waisted, low, square bodice, pointed back and
front; Vandyke collar, turning downwards from shoulders;
stomacher hung with pearls and diamonds ; sleeves one large
puff to elbow, with ruffles, pearl girdle, sometimes pearl em-
broideries on sides of skirt, and a heavy velvet train in plaits
from shoulders. Hair cut square across forehead, and curled
back and front ; single row of diamonds or pearls round head.
The hats large, of velvet or satin, with plumes turned up on
one side and bordered with pearls. Dress to be rendered in
white, pink, or yellow satin, or black or ruby velvet. Round
feather fan carried in hand. The Princesses as children wore
skirts touching the ground, sewn in plaits at the waist ; the
bodices square, with sleeves puffed or coming to wrist, and
Vandyke cuffs, made in dark blue, drab, black, or gold satin,
or velvet (sometimes with sacque from shoulders), almost
hidden by large, square, muslin apron, bordered with van-
dyked lace, having square bibs and lace epaulettes. They had
close-fitting net caps, with lace, like those of an infant. The
ordinary costume of a woman, not in the higher grades of
society, during Charles I. time, was sensible and useful, though
in the beginning of his reign the farthingale was worn. The
skirts touched the ground, and when distended by the farthingale
the extra length formed a puff round the waist, falling in
graceful fulness. The bodices were stiff, coming only to the
waist, for the countrywomen and citizens' wives, and had
either vandyked or stuffed epaulettes, or a brace-like trimming
on the front, the aprons reaching to the hem of the dress, and
having a bib. In this rank, the ruff was of linen, close under
the chin ; higher class women wore them deeper, but secured
to the back of the shoulders ; the French hood covered the
hair and head ; the commonalty preferred the high-crowned
hats with broad brims like the soft felt hats of to-day. Before
the end of the reign, the French hood went out. Massinger
puts into the mouth of one of his characters a reference to

m.

^.e^wMA^%^rJ(>.

. C\AV({/2AmZ(>S

]%. toi^^^yri' ji cu49/tv.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 53

this "And a French hood, too — now 'tis out of fashion, a
foolscap would be better." Ruffs went out too. The dress
that succeeded it was the falling collar, the plain graceful
skirt and full sleeve, and the curls resting softly on the face.
Another style of hair-dressing must have been borrowed from
the Dutch ; the hair combed straight back and the curls at
the side only. Hollar represents a woman thus dressed in
his "Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus," date 1645. She wears a
long pointed bodice laced across the front, with an upper robe
caught up in a species of panier at the hips, a tippet of linen,
and long gauntlet gloves. It was in the reign of Charles I.,
that patches first began to be worn, which Bulwer, in 1650,
speaks of as " a vaine custom of spotting their faces out of an
affectation of a mole to set off their beauty." When this
absurd fashion came in, patches do not appear to have been
tiny round circles of plaister, such as later on were worn with
powder, but sometimes they were scattered all over the visage
in a variety of shapes — stars, crescents, and even a coach and
horses, — and this folly lasted many years.

CHARLES II., PERIOD OF. The women's dress
of this period is familiar from the bevy of beauties associated
with it at Hampton Court in neglige attire. The bodices
alone are stiff, but they expose rather than cover the bust
and neck ; the curled locks fall on the shoulders, and are
simply confined by a row of pearls round the head ; the arms
are bare from the elbow ; a train and distinct front breadth
form the skirt, and there is a plethora of lace. More homely
women wore plain skirts, an upper one of a contrasting tone ;
pointed bodices, high to the throat, with a plain turn-down
collar from the throat : the full sleeves to elbow are caught up
with jewels at the bend of the arm ; the shoes high on the
instep, and very high in the heel, with roses or buckles. The
following is a good dress : — Blue and gold brocade, with
flounces of gold embroidery and point d'Alengon lace, and
train of old gold satin ; puffed petticoat looped at the side with
bows, pearls, and lace ; bodice low with sleeves fastened in to
elbow with diamond ornaments ; diamond tiara, and orna-
ments. The skirt made plain and long, the bodices low, with
lace turning downwards from shoulders. Hair in ringlets, with
bandeau of pearls.

CHARLES VI. OF FRANCE (1380-1422). Rich

54 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

white satin skirt ; train of cloth of gold bordered with sable,
and studded with diamonds. Veil of Indian muslin ; horned
head-dress of gold and white satin with jewels.

CHARLES VII. 9F FRANCE (1422-1461).
DAME DE QUALITE, REIGN OF. Blue satin,
trimmed with ermine and black velvet, over old gold satin
petticoat ; belt at waist, revers on bodice, long tight sleeves ;
conical head-dress of black velvet, trimmed with tulle, old
point lace. Silk girdle. Ornaments, pearls and diamonds.

CHARLES IX. TIME. White satin quilted front
trimmed with gold and pearls, black velvet train and bodice.
{See Medicis Period and Francis II.)

CHARLOTTE CORDAY (1768-1793). Short, scanty
skirt of white muslin or grey cashmere ; a gathered flounce
round. A muslin fichu over the short-waisted bodice, crossing
in front and tied at back ; long, tight sleeves. Large muslin cap,
which goes by her name, full crown, lace round, plain in front,
much gathered at back ; ribbon about crown, bow on right side
tricolour cockade on left. {See Plate III., Fig. 10.) Lamartine
thus describes it : "A Normandy cap, the lace of which flapped
on her cheeks, a large green silk ribbon pressed the cap round
her brow. Her hair escaped from it on to the nape of her
neck, and some curls floated down. On her early arrival in
Paris she had a high conical hat. As a girl she wore dark
cloth robes ; a grey felt hat turned up at the edge and trimmed
with ribbon."

CHARLOTTE, QUEEN (WIFE OF GEORGE
III.). Skirt of white satin, the front embroidered in gold;
train and bodice of pink flowered satin, trimmed with lace ;
long, narrow-pointed, low bodice ; powdered hair ; pearls,
feathers, and diamonds.

CHASSERESSE (LOUIS XIV.). Short satin skirt
of chamois colour ; blue velvet bodice and tunic caught up
with gold cord. High untanned leather boots, a horn slung at
the side, a peaked cap like a naval officer's ; powdered hair.

CHERRY GIRL. Cerise satin, with white tunic,
caught up with cherries ; cherries in the hair, round the neck
and arms, and round top of gold boots. Quilted red satin
skirt, white muslin tunic, bodice, and pufled sleeves; broad red

II

COUNTESS OF ARGYLL

IN THE TIME OF MARY, QUEEN OF SCOT

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCV BALLS. 55

sash all trimmed with ripe cherries, and plenty of leaves.
Mob cap suitable for child ; or a tied down hat with wreath
of fruit, and a basketful under arm.

CHERRY RIPE. Dress of white tulle, muslin, or grey
silk, trimmed all over with cherries, a coat of red satin or a
plastron of cherries in front of square bodice ; earrings and
necklace of pendant cherries. Basket of cherries carried in
hand. Or, red satin short skirt, with tunic of drab satin or
Indian muslin, bordered with leaves and cherries, sleeves of
cherries and leaves ; low, square satin bodice ; wreath to match ;
basket of fruit in hand ; fan bordered with cherry-leaves ;
cherry-coloured stockings ; black shoes.

CHESS. Front breadth, squares of black and white silk,
black band at edge of skirt, row of red ribbon above. Black
silk train piped with red, caught up with check ribbon, and
bordered with checks. Sleeves of black and white squares to
wrist, black cuffs piped with red. V-shaped black bodice,
with ruff. Coronet of chessmen, larger pieces in front, the
same for ornaments, all made of wood.

CHESS, LIVING. The several pieces in chess are
sometimes thus represented: — Pawns, young ladies in red
and blue dresses d V Amazon; skirts and bodices trimmed
with gold and silver fringe; handsome gold and silver
wrought helmets, with plumes, carrying spears and shields.
Knights in complete armour, one side gold, one silver,
carrying swords. Bishops in archiepiscopal robes, with
mitres and crosiers. Rooks in gorgeous mediaeval dresses,
The Castles wear towers on their heads. Kings and
Queens in royal robes of satin velvet and ermine, with crowns,
diamonds, sceptres, &c. Heralds in tabards. Chess-board
blue and white, 32 feet square.

CHIEFTAIN'S DAUGHTER {time of Prince
Charlie). White silk or muslin skirt trimmed with tartan ;
black velvet bodice with tartan scarf; gold aigrette, with badge
of gold birch-leaves ; gold ornaments.

CHILD (ROYAL ABBESS OF WHITBY).

Plain white woollen robe, fastened with fibulae, set in a small
square-cut band at the throat, and gathered at waist with girdle,
which like the neck-band is worked with crosses in gold thread,
also hem of skirt and long hanging sleeves ; mantle over it,

56 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

embroidered also in cross pattern; abbess' staff, a book in
hand ; long veil of black muslin.

CHINA. A fashionable character carried out in several
ways. For Dresden China {see D). White China {see W).
Modern China. Blue and white circular head-dress
simulating a china plate ; a low square white bodice trimmed
with blue ; sleeves nearly to wrist ; a blue scarf about the
hips, and tunic of silver lattice-work and white satin
with gold tassels and fringe ; short blue satin skirt ; a
wand surmounted by a dove carried in the hand. Blue
China. Underskirt and Swiss bodice of dark blue satin
of the Worcester tone, trimmed with gold braid, Watteau
tunic, under bodice of dark blue and white cretonne. White
China. Any opaque, white material, Watteau bodice, looped-
up skirt of white broche or sateen, trimmed with box plaitings
and bows of white ribbon, roses, and thick lace, bodice cut
square, elbow sleeves, ruffles ; under-skirt of quilted sateen ;
high-heeled shoes, white mittens, a frill of white lace round
the throat, white muslin apron, trimmed with lace ; hair pow-
dered, white roses, large white fan. Etruscan China.
Egyptian red, black and gold. The hat, in form like a coronet,
is black, with a red and gold embroidered design ; the square-
cut low bodice is black, with red stomacher trimmed with
gold ; white, short sleeves ; red, short skirt ; black tunic, bor-
dered with red and trimmed with gold ; Etruscan tazza and
vases in the hand. Faience de Longwy might be carried
out in a cretonne with green mousse ground, black lines and
white flowers. A coronet of the same white flowers forms the
head-dress ; the bodice has a rounded yoke-piece bordered
with gold, a white muslin full bodice showing between it and
the corselet ; bodice and tunic cut in one, and bordered with
gold fringe ; plain short skirt ; a hand-screen of the same
colouring carried in the hand. Vallauris Ware. A square
low bodice and tunic in one, of dark green, outlined in gold,
over white satin skirt ; a plastron of white flowers down the
front, white sleeves, and a coronet head-dress like a green plate
edged with gold. Wedgwood has a sort of cottage hat
of blue and white with the Greek key bordering; a white
under-bodice low and heart-shaped ; a blue cuirass bodice
over, with the same key pattern on white ; tunic of blue and
white bordered with a band of blue, and blue tassels ; blue
short skirt, a blue and white caladium leaf carried in the

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 57

hand. Japanese. Square cuirass bodice and tunic of blue
and white in Japanese designs. A head-dress of the same,
and bracelets with blue plaques. For Sfevres the hair is
powdered ; a coquettish hat on one side of the head, with a
bouquet of roses ; low square cuirass and tunic, white with
gold fleurs-de-lis and bands of pink satin for trimming ; pink
satin under-skirt ; bunches of roses on the shoulder ; a fleur-
de-lis wand.

CHINESE COSTUMES should be dresses brought
from the country. The lady wears a narrow skirt and loose
over-dress with large hanging sleeves of two-coloured satins,
embroidered in gold and coloured silks ; silk trousers, and
ankle-bangles ; hair d la Chinoise, with flowers and silver pins ;
fan in hand ; Chinese shoes. Petticoat, yellow satin, richly
embroidered ; long tunic of chocolate coloured satin, also em-
broidered ; gold band at waist, hair a la Chinoise, with pins
and coloured roses. Or, overskirt of rich brocade, bordered like
pagoda sleeve with bands worked in coloured silks. Sash
tied at back ; narrow under-skirt of green and white brocade.

CHOCOLATE CREAM. Evening dress, arranged with
a skirt of chocolate colour and a tunic and bodice of the
cream colour.

CHOCOLATIERE, LA {Fro?n Leotard's Picture in the
Dresden Gallery). Short dark-grey skirt ; white apron with bib,
reaching to the hem of skirt; yellowish-brown velvet jacket
with loose all-round basque ; a striped yellow and black three-
cornered fichu crossed in front ; sleeves to elbow, turned
back over white under ones confined in a band ; close-fitting
lace cap, lined with pink, having a lace puffing and frill at
edge j tray of chocolates in hand ; black high-heeled shoes.

CHRISTMAS. {See Winter.)

CHRISTMAS CARD. Short striped skirt of black
and gold, on the black a row of Christmas Cards printed
horizontally, edged with gold braid, three on each, graduated,
the largest at the bottom. At the edge of skirt are satin
flounces, over which fall gold tinsel and fringe. Red satin
paniers and drapery, covered with swansdown pompons;
scarlet satin cuirass bodice laced at the back, bordered at the
neck with swansdown, festoons of holly-berries on the arm,
below the shoulder. Cordon of Christmas roses across the

5 8 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

bodice, white ribbon epaulettes, holly wreath, red aigrette,
stockings and shoes. A Christmas card in centre of white
swansdown fan.

CHRISTMAS CRACKER. Grey tulle dress covered
with various coloured crackers ; necklace of bonbons ; hair
powdered ; an aigrette of crackers.

CHRISTMAS NUMBER. Skirt made of newspapers;
in box-plaited flounces, bordered with stripes, in which the
titles of various newspapers are inscribed, each stripe edged
with a narrow velvet ribbon. Apron formed of Christmas
pictures trimmed with pink paper; black shoes, stockings,
and mittens, rosettes, with gold and steel pen-nibs ; bracelets
of the same ; scarlet cap with quills for aigrette.

CHRISTMAS TREE. Dress of green net covered
with toys, flags, crackers. A tiny fairy on the top.

CIGALE. Short red skirt, with bars and notes of music
in black and green satin, upper tunic bordered gold fringe ;
Zouave jacket ; purple silk vest beneath ; coloured scarf across
bodice, tied under left arm. High riding boots, black silk
stockings ; round cap of red silk with gold band ; a small
barrel slung on one shoulder.

CIGARETTE. Purple silk Zouave jacket, white vest
beneath, short scarlet skirt ; black silk stockings ; high riding
boots with spurs, and a barrel slung over one shoulder, tiny
pistols strapped in the leather waist-belt.

CINDERELLA. A short cotton dress and tunic, like
Lady Adelina Cocks (now Marchioness of Tavistock) wore
at the Marlborough House Ball, with long linen bibbed
apron, muslin fichu and cap, a broom in hand, and a glass
shoe at side. Another rendering: — Black and white striped
short skirt ; fish-wife tunic of ash-coloured cashmere ; high
cambric bodice, V-shape; short sleeves ; corsage of red
velvet, with black velvet bretelles, crossing in front and
attached to tunic ; black and white striped stockings ; black
shoes, silver buckles ; short broom and bellows. Cinder-
ella at the ball as follows : Train of blue silk ; petticoat
pink; square bodice; all trimmed with silver lace and roses ;
wreath on head ; the slipper at side of silver perforated card-
board, or satin covered with talc cloth. Dress of 17 th century

Ill

CLASSIC

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 59

also correct. Or long white satin dress worked in pearls ; train
from shoulder ; high standing collar, wired. Kate Vaughan
dressed the character as follows -.—Short white satin petticoat
embroidered in gold, and low bodice ; short sleeves, train
from the shoulders, fastened on one side only, of white
brocaded silk lined with yellow and edged with gold lace.
The whole costume was ornamented with birds of Paradise.
Second dress, white satin, elaborately embroidered in silver ;
the train white, lined with pale blue satin or silk, and large
clusters of white ostrich feathers ; the hair curled over the
forehead, with bandeau of glittering stones ; stockings embroi-
dered with silver. For the following, see Plate III. Figure ii. —
Short plaited skirt ; tunic and bodice in one ; muslin fichu,
loosely knotted ; small round velvet or silk cap ; bellows at
side ; broom in hand.

CIRCASSIAN. Costume of white satin embroidered with
silver, trimmed ermine, consisting of skirt, long bodice, and
under-bodice ; the face, all but the eyes, veiled in white
muslin ; white satin Turkish trousers \ scarlet velvet Greek
cap, with gold tassels ; gauze veil \ hair in plaits, entwined
with pearls. Gold coins admissible ; dagger and pistol.

CIRCASSIAN SLAVE. White llama dress, loose and
flowing, bordered with rows of gold braid and fringe ; scarf and
waist-band embroidered in gold ; necklace of coins ; wrists
and ankles united by chains beneath full Turkish trousers ^
small cap with gold band and coins.

CLAIRE DE LUNE. {See Moonlight.)
CLAIRETTE. {See Angot.)

CLARICE D'AUBIGNY, 1467. As worn by Lady
Elizabeth Villiers at the Buckingham Palace Ball. Short skirt
of ermine ; tunic and low bodice of blue velvet bordered with
silver ; ermine braces ; stomacher of darker velvet wrought in
silver ; conical Cauchoise head-dress, with tulle veil.

CLASSIC. For style, see Cleopatra, Druidrss, An-
cient Greek, &c., and large Coloured Illustration III.
This simple rendering of a classic gown is suited to a
young girl of slender figure, and is not rigidly correct as
the costume of ancient days. It can be made in soft
cashmere, muslin, nun's veiling, crepe, crepe de Chine^ or

E

6o FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED j OR,

Liberty silk, worked in the Greek-key pattern with narrow
Russian gold braid.

CLAUDE, QUEEN, French, 15 15 {Wife of Francis I.)
As worn by Princess Augusta of Cambridge, at Buckingham
Palace Ball. Skirt of silver tissue, with deep border of
ermine, upper skirt of light blue velvet embroidered with
fleurs-de-lis in silver, one side cut up and outlined with
ermine ; low full bodice, outlined with diamonds, jewelled
girdle, tight sleeves of silver tissue, with a row of pearl buttons
on outside of arm. Crown of turquoise and brilliants ; neck-
lace to match. Veil of silver tissue.

CLEOPATRA. White satin or cashmere costume em-
broidered in gold. Plain flowing skirt ; bodice low and loose,
in classic style ; asp on front of bodice ; wing-like sleeves ;
jewelled girdle half hidden by fulness. Red toga fastened on
left shoulder with jewels, bordered with gold fringe. Serpent
bracelets round upper arm and wrist, united by chains. Hair
hanging down ; jewelled diadem.

CLIVE, KITTY. Short blue dress with square bodice,
elbow sleeves, white stomacher, and white apron. White sun
bonnet, standing up well above the face.

CLOCHES DE CORNEVILLE. (6'^<? Serpolette
and Germaine.)

CLOUD. Evening dress of two shades of grey tulle and
silver. Low full bodice trimmed with silver, belt at waist ;
silver star coronet ; silver veil.

CLOUD WITH SILVER LINING. Pink tulle and
silver cloth, interblended with blue tulle and caught up with
silver ; ornaments the same.

CLOWN (Female). Dress of white cashmere, made with
short skirt, loose low-banded bodice, short sleeves, all orna-
mented with grotesque figures in dark red velvet. White
shoes and stockings, with red clocks. Conical white cap with
red velvet band.

CLUBS. QUEEN OF. {See Cards.)

COCKATOO. Short dress of white and yellow satin, or
tulle ; wings at the side of skirt, made of white feathers ;

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 6 1

powdered hair, surmounted by a cap in the form of a
cockatoo's head.

COCK ROBIN. Short brown pleated skirt ; jacket with
pointed basque at the back, Uke tail of the bird, made in
feathers and plush ; the front of bodice formed of red feathers ;
high collar, red necktie ; head-dress, bird's head with beak.
Cock and Hen is a good pair of costumes for a married
couple. The cock wears a bright yellow coat, a jabot of white
feathers, knee breeches of fawn brown feathers, silk stock-
ings, black shoes, field-marshal's hat, with cock's crest in
golden feathers. {See Golden Hen.)

COINS. White satin dress, with coins of all sizes arranged
round the skirt, tunic, and low bodice ; veil of tulle fringed
with coins ; gold net on head, bordered with coins ; orna-
ments, coins. {See also Money and Gold.)

COLETTE.— (^"^^ Village Girl.)

COLINETTE (French peasant). Short petticoat of
red and black stripes ; over-skirt of gold cashmere lined with
red, arranged to show the lining; black velvet bodice;
white kerchief, apron, and French cap ; black stockings, gold
and red clocks : black shoes and buckles ; gold ornaments of
the Normandy type ; hair in plaits.

COLLEEN BAWN. Dark blue stockings, high-heeled
leather shoes. Short full petticoat of blue serge. Calico
bodice and tunic pinned back kirtle fashion, of blue and white
stripes, showing white under-bodice ; sleeves tight to elbow.
Sometimes the bodice is also blue serge laced with red.
Black velvet and cross round neck ; hair quite smooth,
twisted in coil at back. A red handkerchief tied under chin
maybe worn. Red cloak with hood. {See Plate IIL, Fig. 12.)

COLORADO BEETLE. Dress of green tulle trimmed
with irridiscent beads, the design beetles, which appear on
the head-dress, shoulders, and looping up the skirt.

COLUMBIA. Ruby velvet cap with aigrette and silver
stars ; low bodice of ruby velvet with blue satin stomacher,
embroidered in silver ; short sleeves ; skirt of striped blue and
ruby satin ; tunic of blue satin with silver stars and fringe.

COLUMBINE. White tulle or satin dress, made with
low bodice, trimming of roses ; wand headed by roses. Some-

62 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

times made in white satin, blue satin paniers and bodice ;
Tricorn hat with blue pompons over powdered hair. A pretty
French rendering is a short petticoat and bodice of light
blue satin, with spangled bertha, the skirt draped with tulle
caught down with a scroll of the several characters in pan-
tomime ; flowers and ribbon floating from blue felt hat worn
over powdered hair. In "Surprises de 1' Amour," skirts of tulle,
short, alternately blue, pink, and brown, in Vandykes, with
gold braid tassels ; blue satin low bodice ; large bouquet of
roses on left side ; small grey felt hat, looped up with roses.

COMET. Long blue satin skirt bordered with stars ;
yellow satin tablier trimmed with stars ; low blue silk cuirass
bodice shot with amber, bordered with stars ; the front of skirt
is of the lightest shade of gold, trimmed with gold fringe ;
hair flowing ; star ornaments ; star of electric light in hair ;
gold and red is a good combination.

COMING THRO' THE RYE. Poppy-coloured short
petticoat, dark green bodice and laveuse tunic embroidered
with rye and grass sewn inside, as if half dropping out ; white
chemisette, showing sleeves rolled up to elbow ; poppy-coloured
kerchief; straw hat trimmed with rye; poppies and cornflowers
slung on arm ; wreath of same on one side of head. Red
stockings, black shoes with red bows; sickle at waist. Or
another rendering : maize cashmere made with full, short,
plain skirt, gathered all round waist ; broad band to bodice,
cut as a low square back and front ; tight short sleeves to
elbow, turned up with muslin ; muslin fichu fastening with
poppies and corn ; muslin scarf carried round hips and tied
with large bow, poppies and corn at edge ; scarf caught up
with sickles ; large hat with grain and poppies hanging down
the back; wreath of poppies and grain in hand; gauntlet
gloves ; fan of grain and poppies. Or, Indian muslin dress ;
crimson bodice ; wreath of cornflowers ; basket of wild
flowers. Sometimes dressed as a Scotch girl.

CONNAUGHT PEASANT. Dressed like Colleen
Bawn, with red handkerchief on head, sickle in hand. {See
Colleen Bawn.)

CONSTANCE NEVILLE {S/ie Stoops to Conquer).
White satin petticoat, train and bodice of blue and silver ;
slashed sleeves ; powdered hair.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 63

CONTADINA. {See Itall\n.)

COOK. Short white skirt and apron, with white cook's
cap; white shoes and stockings; blue ribbon with bills of fare
printed thereon ; ornaments, small silver saucepans.

COQUETTE. Blue satin train, trimmed with lace and
roses, turned back with rose satin ; petticoat of white satin,
trimmed with roses and pearls ; blue satin bodice, low and
pointed, slashed with pink; elbow sleeves and ruffles; powdered
hair, and small pink rose wreath and aigrette on one side ;
hair also looped with pearls.

CORDELIA {King Lear). Red or white over-dress and
low square bodice bordered with jewelled band ; under-skirt
of white cashmere embroidered with dragons; train from
shoulder, with embroidered oak-leaves and pendent sleeves ;
hair floating on shoulder ; gold fillet and sandalled shoes.

COTILLON. Ordinary tulle ball-dress covered all over
with many-coloured ribbon streamers, rosettes, bells, flowers,
and the gifts of the cotillon ; hair flowing, a pointed cap worn
on one side, round Japanese cap ; fan ; a basket filled with
bouquets ; tambourine slung on arm.

COTTON TRADE {See Lace Trade). The skirt
should be made of white cotton ; the sash round hips edged
with pieces of tape of various widths, alternating with reels of
cotton, the words '' Cotton Trade " in front ; bodice trimmed
to match ; ornaments, reels of cotton.

COULEUR DE ROSE. Powdered hair; rose-coloured
dress with pointed bodice and elbow sleeves ; sacque and
panier looped over pink gauze petticoat; pink mittens, stock-
ings, and shoes ; pink mob cap ; pair of pink pince-nez ; pink
feather fan. {See R.)

CRACKER. {See Christmas.)

CRACOVIENNE. Short blue silk skirt, with wide band
of silver fur round the edge ; tight-fitting jacket of blue satin,
with long hanging sleeves lined with rose colour and trimmed
with ermine and brandenbergs ; a puffing of white silk passing
through the open front of the jacket, fastened tightly round
the throat with a band of the same fur ; small PoHsh square
cap made of blue satin, bordered with fur; large diamond
aigrette and feather wing on one side ; hair powdered and

64 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

dressed high in front with/ plaits falHng to the waist at the back ;
long bronze boots, with gilt heels and fur tops. {See Polish.)

CRESSIDA {Troilus and Cressida). Flowing classic
dress of soft white wool ; belt at waist ; low under-bodice
visible above bodice ; helmet-like cap.

CROW. Black skirt and feather-bodice and wings; the
bird's head as a cap.

CUP. (6'*?^ Gamma.)

_ CYPRUS, QUEEN OF. Rich violet silk velvet Vene-
tian costume trimmed with gold and pearls ; under-dress of
mauve satin trimmed to match ; pearl and gold girdle, fan,
head-dress. {See Venetian.)

DAFFODIL. Dress of light green brocade, draped with
two shades of green tulle, caught down with wreaths of
daffodils ; head-dress of the same ; a wand with a bunch of
daffodils and bells on the top.

DAFFY-DOWN DILLY, "who came up to town, in a
yellow petticoat and a green grown." The yellow petticoat satin,
made full and long ; the gown flowered, looped up on one
side ; the bodice of the same, opening V-shape, and bordered
all round with ermine ; tight sleeves with pouf at elbow ; high
horned head-dress of Edward III. time.

DAIRY MAID. Quilted skirt of a bright colour; laveuse
tunic of chintz ; square-cut bodice of the same chintz, with
stomacher to match the petticoat, laced across ; muslin fichu,
cap and apron.

DAISY, DEW^ ON. White spangled tulle dress and
frosted veil, with bunches of pink-tipped daisies tied with
satin ribbon scattered all over the dress.

DAISY, FIELD. White silk evening gown, trimmed with
fringes of daisies, grass, and leaves; back of skirt tulle, panels
of painted daisies ; dark green silk bodice, bordered at neck
and waist with the flowers and leaves ; coronet of daisies.

DAISY QUEEN, sometimes called Daisy Chain.
Fashionable white tulle evening dress, the top of bodice and
edge of tunic having a fringe of pendent white, red-tipped
daisies, headed by leaves ; crown of daisies, and tulle veil
scattered with daisies ; or a sort of Tarn O'Shanter cap made
with loops like daisy petals, green tassel in the centre ; wand
with bunch of daisies carried in hand.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 65

DALMATIAN. Long white robe, embroidered apron ;
loose velvet bodice resplendent in gold embroidery, with
many beads round throat ; full long white sleeves ; distaff in
hand , white cloth about the head, the falling ends edged with
gold ; girdle about waist. The peasants wear a short red cloth
pelisse fastened at waist with girdle. The hair bound round
the head in two plaits, interwoven with red braid, covered
with a curious helmet head-dress. Or, short full skirt of yellow
llama ; many coloured apron ; wide belt of lace and llama in
folds round waist ; low red satin bodice with short sleeves
and muslin ruffles ; low white chemisette ; straw hat with red
ribbons placed on left side ; hair in two long plaits.

DAME DURDEN. Hair powdered, white muslin cap;
flowered dress, and bodice of chintz, white muslin fichu.

DAME OF PRIMROSE LEAGUE. Evening gown
of primrose tulle, with the words " Peace with Honour," in
violets, and the monogram of the League on one side of the
skirt ; the badge of the League worn on the bodice ; and as
many primroses as possible scattered about the dress; primrose-
coloured gloves and shoes, and fan painted or embroidered
with primroses.

DAME TROT. {See Hubbard, Mother.)

DANCING GIRL. Three skirts: first, pale blue satin
with wide border of gold, the second cerise satin, the third soft
cream silk, with medallions and gold fringe ; sash tied loosely ;
bodice of cream silk, fastened round throat with gold band ;
gold waistband and black velvet Zouave jacket embroidered
in gold and fringed with sequins ; gold arrow in hair ; gay-
coloured silk handkerchief twisted round head, with sequins ;
coral and gold ornaments ; fan formed of cards, hanging as
chatelaine ; tambourine with gay ribbons.

DANCING GIRL OF SEVILLE. Blue shoes and
stockings embroidered down the centre of foot ; short white
satin skirt, two gold-coloured satin flounces cut in Vandykes ;
white satin low bodice, tight sleeve, a band of red embroidery
inside the arm ; band at the waist, red epaulettes ; red band
round bodice ; gold kerchief tucked inside bodice ; gold chain
round neck ; red ribbons and rose in hair.

DANISH PEASANT. Striped skirt touching the
ground ; tight sleeves ; high jacket coming only to waist, em-
broidered down the front ; large apron almost covering the

66 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

dress, with embroidery at each side ; a coloured handkerchief
tied cornerwise on head.

D'ARBLAY, MADAME. (See A, and Burney.)

DARBY (DARBY AND JOAN). Joan, print dress,
white apron ; red shawl, crossed in front, just large enough to
come to the waist ; a muslin frilled cap, white hair, spectacles
and stick. Darby in fustian suit, such as an old countryman
would wear, or long smock.

DAUGHTER OF REGIMENT. (See Vivandiere.)

DAUPHINE {Joseph Balsamo). Light grey brocaded
silk with gold- coloured flowers; the back long, the front
has flounces of the brocade drawn up at the sides with tassels
of blue, gold, and pearls. At the Versailles fete, she wears
cloth of silver, brocaded with white satin, roses at the side, em-
broidered with mother-of-pearl ; bodice low and pointed,
covered with gold and diamonds, trimmed w^ith old English
lace ; head-dress, white feathers and diamond aigrette.

DAW, MARJORY. Pretty dress of pink satin, plain
skirt, square bodice, bordered with gold ; tight sleeves, with
puff at the top ; hair floating.

DAWN. Dress of pale grey tulle over silk or satin, with
a little pale pink introduced ; scarves of grey tulle, with silver
stars fastened at regular distances, draped across the skirt,
forming the tunic, looped at the back with pale pink, narrow
satin ribbon, and silver ; low square bodice with deep
basque of grey satin ; short sleeves ; a diadem of stars, with
a half crescent moon in front, and veil of grey tulle fas-
tened to the shoulders, and again to the skirt at the back ;
ornaments, silver stars ; grey shoes, and fan of pale pink and
grey, or grey and silver. Sometimes made the same in dark
blue tulle. {See Aurora.)

DAY. A white tulle veil and evening dress, with clouds
of rose-coloured tulle draped over it, rays in silver cloth
radiating from the waist. The hair powdered with gold, a
gold sun above the forehead. Butterflies on the shoulders.

DAYDREAM. White silk evening gown with crimson
striped tablier and train. " Daydream " embroidered on the
.sash.

DEANS, JENNY. {See])

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 67

DECEMBER. {See Winter.)

DESDEMONA. White satin skirt, with over-dress and
train of silver tissue ; silver cloth stomacher worked in pearls ;
satin sleeves puffed to wrist, pendent gauze sleeves from arm-
hole ; pearl girdle with tassels ; silver aumoniere and round
feather fan at side ; pearl fillet on head, with silver coronet.
Also pointed bodice, flowing skirt, sleeves puffed at the
shoulders and trimmed with pearls ; closely-dressed hair with
pearls entwined ; the soft dove-coloured velvet robe showing
an under-skirt of blue.

DEVONSHIRE, DUCHESS OF. (5^^ Gainsborough.)

DEW. White tulle evening dress and veil studded with
crystal drops ; trimmings of green grass. Hair hanging loose,
sprinkled with frosting-powder ; wreath of grasses.

DIABLESSE. Red dress, with red cap and wings;
carrying horned trident. Or, pale grey skirt with appliques of
animals in red velvet; black gold-spangled scarf; grey bodice
with black velvet bats appliqued on to front ; red velvet
hat with gold aigrette and red feather.

DIABLOTINE. Short red satin skirt, bordered with
gold ; low pointed black bodice cut in Vandykes, outlined with
yellow, with upright red satin collar, fastened to short yellow-
satin cloak, piped with scarlet and recalling bat's wings. Or,
dark blue net covered with red velvet tridents ; forks of
lightning wired round neck and sleeves ; scarf drapery of black
satin with firefly wings ; silver pitchfork, and horns in hair ;
short sleeves, long streamers of red satin from the side, falling
on skirt and draped at back, with gold fringe, coins, and
sequins ; black velvet cap with two high horn-like feathers and
scarlet lace ; gold ornaments. Bracelets as well as armlets
worn. For a child an ordinary white and red dress, with black
gloves and sash and stockings, and gold horned headdress ;
forked wand ; high-heeled boots.

DIAMANTS, PRINCESS DE. Short white tulle
dress, pulled through silver braid trellis-work closely studded
with diamonds ; round the hem a full frill of white lace
trimmed with silver, diamonds and fringe ; silver brocade
bodice studded with diamonds and trimmed over the hips with
silver fringe and diamond stars ; hair curled and sprinkled
with diamonds ; large white feather fan.

68 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

DIAMONDS, QUEEN OF. (See Cards.)

DIANA. Green velvet hunting-jacket, with gold zone and
waistcoat trimmed with gold, or a low bodice with basques
laced in front and bordered with leopard-skin ; white satin
tunic over short crimson skirt with stars and crescents, looped
up with lions' heads ; mantle of leopard's-skin, lion's head
on left side. Green boots and buskins laced with crimson.
Silver quiver with darts ; Grecian bow and gold arrows ;
bracelets and necklet of silver crescents and beads ; head-
dress, a silver crescent ; mirror hung at waist. A classical
rendering would be as follows : — White cashmere skirt edged
with green velvet and silver, caught up on one side ; loose
low bodice, sleeves to elbow fastened outside the arm with
silver buttons ; pointed tunic, silver tassels at points ; short
green cashmere mantle across left shoulder, fastened under
left arm ; silver girdle, bow, quiver, and arrows ; hair turned
off the face in a coil at the back ; silver crescent on forehead ;
silver bangles. {See Plate IV., Fig. 14.)

DINORAH. Hair in two long plaits; light blue skirt,
with bands of black velvet ; lace-edged apron ; white che-
misette, with long sleeves to wrist ; blue square corselet bodice,
laced and trimmed with silver and black velvet.

DIRECTOIRE, 1795, COSTUME OF. This is
a favourite style of dress at fancy balls, and admits of many
good combinations of colour. After the great Revolution
towards the close of the last century, women launched into
all kinds of eccentricities. Wonderful head-dresses were
originated. The bonnets stood up boldly from the face, like
a spoon. There was the bonnet a la folk, with a tricoloured
butterfly bow at the top; and the casque hat, round without
brim, worn over a Charlotte Corday cap. The hair beneath
was inflated with steam. The following are dresses in the
Directoire style :— Skirt of striped silk with one deep flounce;
green pelisse scalloped at the edge, double-breasted, having
pink cuffs and revers, and a double row of buttons to waist ;
ruffles and large jabot of crepe lisse and lace ; large hat and
feather ; riding whip in hand ; eyeglass. — White satin dress,
with paniers formed of loops of ribbon, with two pink satin
belts, fastened with enamel buckle ; plaited lawn fichu ; long
Suede mittens ; white satin train mounted in box-plaits, lined
with pink satin. — Another : Long skirt with very short-waisted

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 69

bodice, the girdle coming from beneath low bodice ; short
sleeves ; long gloves ; scant, round, brimless high hat, with
flowers at the top of crown. — Another : White satin skirt trim-
med with rows of blue satin; tunic and bodice of striped blue
satin ; sash of buttercup satin at the waist ; wide lace collar
and shoulder cape ; Leghorn hat with cornflowers.

DI VERNON. Black or green habit of velvet, cloth, or
satin ; jacket with postilion basque, double-breasted ; mousque-
taire cuffs trimmed with a colour, such as red satin on black
velvet, sometimes with gold braid and brandenbergs. The
skirt is looped up on one side over a plain or quilted satin
skirt. Or, a skirt of silver cloth, the dress trimmed with silver ;
lace jabot and ruffles ; diamond stars ; broad-brimmed cavalier
hat, with plume and Stuart rose ; hunting-whip and horn. (See
Plate IV., Fig. 13.)

DOGTRESS. Robe of crimson satin with white ruffles
at the neck, long hanging sleeves, and a black academic hat
turned up with crimsom. {See Academical Dress.)

DOLL. As faithful a copy as possible of a Dutch doll ;
the hair drawn to a bow at the top of the head ; red shoes and
mittens ; cotton or muslin gown made with full plain skirt
and low loose bodice, short sleeves, large sash.

DOLL PINCUSHION. Skirt of muslin and lace, plain
plastron down front, with steel beads mounted on wire put on
to simulate pins, white on one side black the other ; bodice
edged with same ; on the right side a heart-shaped pincushion ;
head-dress, a crown made of lace and pins.

DOLL SELLER. Short dress and square bodice with
elbow sleeves, made of blue satin with lace ruffles. The skirt
is flounced round the hem, and caught up in Vandykes with
dolls hung round in the festoons, and fans of lace intermingled
with the flounces ; upstanding lace cap with pink ribbon, and
an aigrette of dolls ; pink shoes ; a doll carried in hand.

DOLLY. Is often represented as a milkmaid, with yoke
and pails ; large mop cap with red silk scarf tied under
chin ; green shoes and stockings, and figured cotton short skirt;
plain tunic ; green fichu tied over low bodice ; short sleeves,
black mittens.

DOLLY MAYFLOWER. Black satin petticoat; tunic
and low square bodice of flowered silk or cretonne, elbow

7^ FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

sleeves ; muslin fichu and mob cap ; pocket outside dress ;
high-heeled shoes with buckles ; black silk stockings.

DOLLY VARDEN {Baniaby Rudge). Short quilted
skirt ; bodice and bunched-up tunic of flowered chintz, the
bodice low and laced across ; a muslin kerchief inside ; sleeves
to elbow with frill ; hair not powdered ; straw hat with cherry-
coloured ribbons, or muslin cap ; high-heeled shoes and
bows ; coloured stockings ; mittens. Pretty chintz should be
selected.

DO MI NO J A. Worn at masque balls and sometimes as
fancy dress. It is made in satin, silk, and brocade, or of
plain cotton in the Princess shape, having often a Watteau
plait with cape and slender-pointed hood and wide sleeves. It
should be large and long enough to slip over the dress easily,
and hide it completely. The black are usually trimmed with
a colour, such as a thick ruching down the front and round
the bell-shaped sleeves, and are often piped with a colour and
lined with the same. The lighter tones sometimes edged with
swansdown.

DOMINOES. Sacque of black satin, the square bodice
trimmed with cardboard dominoes, the skirt draped with larger
ones, over a black and white petticoat ; hair powdered, toque
studded with dominoes, black feathers on one side, white
aigrette on the other ; the fan bearing the wearer's name or
monogram in dominoes ; the same painted on gloves ; shoes
trimmed with them to correspond ; enamel dominoes for
necklace and earrings; a domino embroidered on one
corner of the handkerchief.

DOMINOES, BOX OF. Short black satin skirt,
edged with large white satin ruche, lined with black, and
studded with pompons of black silk ; a plastron of white
satin in front from waist to hem, with rounds of black velvet
appliqued to represent double 6 ; plastron crossed with double
row of gold braid ; paniers of black satin edged with black
pompons over kiltings of white satin, and caught up with
double 5 dominoes intermixed with ostrich feathers. The
dominoes made like the plastron, smaller, and lined with card-
board ; low black satin bodice, the basque formed of
dominoes, top trimmed with lace and gold cord; shoulder
knots of ribbon and feathers ; powdered hair ; diamonds and

L

DOWAGEROF BRIONNE

(• .V

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCV^ BALLS. 7 1

black pompons ; long white gloves ; fan in shape of dominoes ;
black shoes and stockings.

DOMINOES, VENETIAN. Are made in handsome
brocade, with long sleeves and cape.

DORIGEN {^Chaucer). Sideless gown of 14th century,
made of such thick stuff as amber plush, bordered with grebe ;
beneath cote hardie of rose-coloured silk richly embroidered ;
sleeves also embroidered ; small coronet on head ; long white
tippet, edged with gold ; veil of silver gauze.

DOROTHY DRUCE. Black or grey Puritan dress;
white bibbed apron ; kerchief and Puritan cap. {See Puritan.)

DOVE. Grey tulle skirt ; bodice made of feathers ; cap like
the head of a dove ; band of red ribbon crosses the bodice,
from the right shoulder to under the left arm, with a letter
attached.

DOWAGER OF BRIONNE {Rbk de Madame
Dejazet). Plain black dress, high to the throat, three
jewelled brooches down the bodice, chatelaine at side,
miniature attached to velvet bow round the throat ; over-dress
of satin caught to the side by loops of beads; white hair;
huge high lace and velvet cap. This costume is well suited to a
matron of mature age, as well as younger women. It can be
rendered in black velvet, with a satin over-dress ; in
black and grey or two shades of grey, or brown, or red.
The material must necessarily be rich. A gold watch and
keys hang at the side ; gold ornaments are introduced down
the side of dress. The form of the head-dress is best
gathered from the plate. It is a mixture of lace and velvet,
with gold ornaments, wired ; large lace lapels fall at the back.
She carries a tall headed cane and fan. {See Coloured
Illustration IV.)

DRAGON-FLY. Evening dress of green tulle, spangled
with green tinsel, trimmed with bulrushes and dragon-fly; a
dragon-fly on the head and on each shoulder.

DRESDEN CHINA. Under this name almost any
poudre character may be worn, with or without a sacque. It
is generally thus rendered : Quilted short skirt ; high-heeled
shoes and clocked stockings ; chintz or brocaded bunched-up

72 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

tunic ; muslin apron ; low bodice ; short sleeves with ruffles ;
coloured stomacher laced across ; bow of ribbon or black
velvet round neck ; straw hat or muslin cap ; powdered hair.
A newer rendering has bows of ribbons and flowers on the
shoulders, with a tiny china figure in the centre; a satin
chapeau bras with more flowers springing from centre ;
crook and high-heeled shoes. {See Plate IV., Fig. 15.)

DRESDEN SHEPHERDESS. Crimson petticoat,
three plaited flounces ; top flounce, pale yellow ; second, pale
pink ; third, pale green ; white overskirt, with brocaded
bouquets in blue and crimson ; elbow sleeves, with broad
band and ruffles, narrow ruffles round stiff square bodice ; pale
green apron, lined with pink ; hair powdered ; flat shepherdess
hat slung on arm ; Watteau bow round throat ; high
heeled shoes. {See China.)

DRUIDESS. Long flowing cashmere robe bordered with
embroidered oak-leaves and mistletoe ; full low bodice drawn
to the neck by a string ; no tucker ; gold girdle ; a scarf
with pointed ends floating over the right shoulder fastened
with brooch on left ; all trimmed with gold ; gold armlets
below the short sleeve ; a wreath of oak-leaves and mistletoe.
A lyre in hand. This may be carried out in white, or in grey,
with red scarf ; gold band and necklet ; sandals on feet.
It is the correct costume for Norma.

DRUM, FOLLOW THE. {See¥.)

DUGHESSE, GRANDE. Blue satin skirt of walking
length, with silver military braiding down the front and bordered
with silver ; long Louis XV. jacket edged with silver ; waistcoat
from waist only, red satin, braided to match the skirt ; mous-
quetaire cuffs of red satin ; hussar jacket braided and edged with
fur, slung from shoulders; white Steinkirk tie; red satin and
fur cap, with pendant point and tassel ; star on right breast.
Second dress, full evening robe with jewels.

DUCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE. (6"^^ Gainsborough.)

DUCK, WHITE. Dress of white satin, the front of
bodice covered with white swansdown ; wings at side of skirt
made of feathers ; shoes of the colour of a duck's foot ; small
cap like a duck's head with a frog in its beak.

DUENNA. High square black dress, made with tight

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 73

sleeves and puff on shoulder ; Spanish mantilla and comb ;
red rose at side ; black shoes and stockings.

DUSK. Dress of dull grey, muslin or gauze, over satin :
silver ornaments and smoked pearls ; a bat on shoulder.

DUTCH. There are many varieties of national head-
dresses peculiar to Holland, which would hardly be suitable for
fancy balls. The usual costume on such occasions is a short blue
silk or stuff skirt ; short plain over-skirt of yellow satin, or
brocade, or chintz ; high black velvet bodice laced over a high
white chemisette with short puffed sleeves, silver bands on
either side of the jacket fronts ; white cap with a gathered
frill, large silver circles above the ears and a silver band across
forehead. The bodice may be made to the waist, square at
neck, with kerchief tucked in, a band round the waist and across
bust ; or low, with tabs at waist ; contrasting stomacher ; turned
down linen collar. Many pretty Dutch costumes may be
copied from Mieris, Gerard Dow, and other Dutch painters. A
Dutch skating costume of the 1 7 th century is as follows : Short
satin skirt, long upper one, turned up all round to waist ; long
pointed bodice, sleeves with one puff, and then two white satin
puffs to wrist ; satin fur-lined muff, fur tippets, hoods lined with
a colour, gauze veil, high-heeled shoes, skates hanging at the side.
A good Dutch costume is worn at Marken : full short black
skirt, bordered with gold ; large figured apron ; square sleeveless
jacket bodice of blue, close-fitting, ending at waist, bordered with
embroidery, and laced with gold over red ; under-bodice high
to throat ; white tight sleeves to elbow, blue armlets to wrist ;
round high red head-dress like a busby, with two rows of beads.

DUTCH FISH WIFE (Scheveningen). Full plain blue
skirt, round waist band, 6 or 8 inches deep, red, blue, and
white, tied with ribbon bow in front; short orange bodice,
square in front, filled in with kerchief, sleeves rolled up , cape
of green, lined with rose colour, round neck, reaching below
waist ; close-fitting cap with lace lappets, large straw hat over ;
basket of fish. The ordinary caps are skull-shape, linen, a piece
turned back at ears, standing out from face with gold orna-
ments on either side.

DUTCH LADY. Black velvet dress; old gold tablier,
rich jet embroidery ; powdered hair ; black lace, and jet.

DUTCH MATRON {16th century). Kilted skirt of

74 FANCV DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

brown cashmere, edged with velvet; white linen apron;
chatelaine at side, with keys and satchel ; close-fitting bodice,
with shoulder cape and revers, edged with gold galon linen ;
chemisette, and linen cuffs to tight sleeves ; black velvet cap,
with hair hidden. 15th century : Figured stuff and brocades
over hoop ; stiff straight square bodices, all round gathered
basqued ; white chemisette, and close plaited ruff at throat ;
sleeves with epaulettes to match dress ; gauntlet gloves, high
pointed felt hat. The caps have often two large round gilt
plates connected with semi-circle of wire which goes round
the back of the head, and keeps the lace in order.

DUTCH SERVANT. Short chintz skirt, blue serge
bodice, with all-round full basque, red kerchief tied over
the neck and tucked into front ; large muslin lace edge
apron ; lace cap, silver side ornaments ; plain black dress,
high bodice, large white tippet, huge turn-back linen cuffs;
apron and cap, guiltless of trimming ; keys at side.

EARLY ENGLISH. This is generally rendered by a
flowing skirt ; plain heart-shaped bodice, with revers ; tight
sleeves, puffed at elbow, slashed at shoulder ; pointed head-
dress and veil hanging from it. Old English is sup-
posed to be represented by the period of Edward IV. : A short
scanty skirt, with one gathered flounce ; low baby bodice, short
waisted ; one puff to short sleeves ; large muslin mob cap
or straw flap hat ; reticule on arm, and long gloves.

EARTH. MOTHER EARTH. White satin short
skirt with rows of black velvet ; red satin tunic, black velvet
bodice, laced stomacher, short sleeves ; gilt basket on head,
with flowers, fruits, and bulbs; ferns, grass, and fruit about
dress ; a small globe hung at side. Or a green dress wreathed
with flowers, fruit, and ferns; basket and flowers in hair.

EASTERN QUEEN. Trousers of gold-striped soft silk,
gathered at the ankles ; tunic of white silk and gold broche,
bordered with gold fringe ; scarf tied at the side, of Oriental
gauze, striped with several bright colours ; loose full bodice
made of soft white silk falling to the hips, and confined at the
waist by a red silk scarf, powdered with sequins; red silk
epaulets, red silk handerchief about head with sequins. {See
Oriental.)

ECAILLERE {viz., Oyster-tvoman). Close-fitting, half-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 75

high, black bodice, pointed, laced in front, bordered with red
braid, fichu draped over top, fastened with a rose ; short black
sleeves, then lace to elbow ; tunic of blue gingham draped over
short skirt of Pompadour sateen ; black shoes ; striped stock-
ings ; black velvet round neck with cross ; muslin and lace
cap of Madame Angot form. Or, skirt of lemon-coloured tulle,
with fringes of seaweed, seashells, and pieces of coral, which
border the tunic and bodice ; the latter having revers of
lemon satin. The epaulettes are formed of lobster claws and
seaweed ; the same in the hair. Sometimes this is rendered
as a fishwife, with white linen bibbed apron, red handkerchief
tied about the head, a basket at the back.

ECARTE. Short dress of black and red satin, trimmed
with gold, and cards. {See Rouge et Noir.)

ECLIPSE. Evening dress with square bodice, divided
down the centre perpendicularly, half yellow and gold, half
black gauze. Black flowers on one side of the head, gold
on the other ; one glove yellow, one black ; shoes the same.

EDITH BELLENDEN {Old Mortality, 1685). The
wearer should have fair hair, and be playful and arch. She
either wears a riding-dress or a simple green cashmere dress,
trimmed with white lace and silver braid ; black velvet cap
with white feathers and pearls, made in the style worn in
James Ilnd's. reign; plain upper and under-skirt, pointed bodice
high to the throat ; plain turn-down collar, full sleeves to
elbow tied with ribbons.

EDITH CLINTON. Long maroon velvet dress, quite
plain ; drooping white hat and feathers.

EDITH PLANTAGENET {The Talisman). Long
flowing skirt, sewn to cuirass bodice, coming low on hips ; cut
square at neck, tight sleeves to wrist, pendent sleeves over
them ; front of bodice embroidered in blue and silver,
bands of same, outlining bodice and sleeves. Hair in two
long plaits, braided with pearls ; shoes jewelled ; flowing
cloak of a distinctive colour may be added, but is not essential.

ED^WARD IV. 1461-T483. {Costume of Period). Under
and over-dress of brocade ; the over-dress long and flowing,
bordered with a band of fur or jewels and held in the hand on
the left side. Close-fitting bodice to waist with jewelled band ;
the bodice opens from the waist heart-shape in front, with braces

F

76 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

of ermine going around the neck, but tapering at the waist, a
jewelled stomacher beneath ; jewelled steeple head-dress made
of brocaded silk, sugar-loaf shape ; a veil of fine gauze shot
with gold fastened to the top and flowing to the ground ;
the sleeves are close-fitting, the cuff cut up inside the arm,
and falling over the hand to the knuckles. The steeple-chase
head-dresses were the particular feature of the day. They are
described as rolls of linen pointed like steeples, half an ell
high, some having a wing at the side called butterflies ; the
cap was covered with lawn, which fell to the ground, and was
tucked under the arm ; the dress bodices opened with braces
from shoulder to waist, over an under-bodice or stomacher,
and ended at the waist ; the waistbands were broad, the cuffs
deep ; many chains about the neck ; velvet, silk, damask
cloth of gold, costly furs, and striped materials, all worn. The
period was illustrated in the Health Exhibition of 1884 by a
female figure taken from the King Rene Paris Library. The
skirt divided in two down the centre, with gold braid, each
half divided again into divisions of pink, or dark blue, gold or
white satin, some having diagonal heraldic emblazoning in
gold ; gold belt round waist where bodice ends ; white chemi-
sette with an upright plaiting at neck, and gold necklet ;
sleeves of pink satin, bordered with gold, tight blue ones
beneath, forming a point on either side of the hand ; stoma-
cher of wdiite satin crossed with gold ; steeple head-dress in
gold colour, distended with wire, long veil to feet.

EFFIE DEANS. Short blue or plaid stuff gown with
loose Garibaldi of flowered print, the basque coming over the
outside of the skirt ; leather belt round the waist ; the bodice
slightly open at the neck ; a piece of blue ribbon about the
head, but almost hidden by a plaid, which envelopes the
figure and head. She carries in her hand a piece of linen she
is sewing. {See Plate XIIL, Fig. 49.)

EGYPTIAN. Red under-skirt, with Egyptian hiero-
glyphics ; a white over-dress, caught up on one side by red silk
scarf round hips falling in a tabbed end in the exact centre of
front ', loose full bodice, pendent sleeves ; a peplum fastened
on the shoulder, worked with the Egyptian honeysuckle ; the
hair dressed flat ; the head-dress like that of the Sphinx, in
black and gold, much jewelled, a bird behind it, and coins
in front, or a square of cashmere bordered with sequins,
secured to forehead by gold band. Or, a turban of white

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 77

muslin trimmed with gold band and pearls. Armlets of gold,
and necklet with coins and gems.

EGYPTIAN LADY. Pale blue cashmere embroidered
in silver, with peplum, and lizard bird ; yellow satin skirt,
with bodice of green tinted jet, open-work embroidery ; small
richly coloured birds dotted here and there over skirt and
bodice. The real dress is not suited to fancy costumes.
Egyptian women out of doors wear a large square of checked
cotton thrown over head and figure. A gold ornament is
fastened between the eyes, and reaches to the top of forehead,
secured to the yashmak of black crape or cashmere passed
across the face, below the eyes to the back of ears, falling
lower than the waist. A fellah woman wears a loose half high
bodice of washing stuff, a necklace round throat, plain woollen
skirt, a sash of many colours round waist, and a handkerchief
gracefully twisted about the head.

EGYPTIAN QUEEN. Black, crimson, and gold satin
dress ; red silk head-dress with sequins ; white train over short
dress made of gold, black, and white.

EIGHTEENTH CKnr\JRY (Dress of Feriod). Powder
was worn until 1795. Large hoops, short skirts, elbow sleeves,
and square bodices are distinguishing features. (See Poudre.)
The poorer classes wore a petticoat and over-dress, opening in
front, a pointed bodice and kerchief, muslin cap, and plaited
border, tight sleeves, mittens, and long aprons. In 1786,
enormous hats, composed of gauze wire and ribbon, were worn,
and turban helmets, high crowned sugarloaf hats from France.
In 1794, the waist came below the arm-pits; feathers were
perched upright on the head. The vagaries which originated
in the French Revolution found their way to England (See
Incroyable, Merveilleuse, and Directoire, the high hats,
the curious hoods, and the catogan. See Afternoon
Dress, A.) The following dress was worn in 1784 : — A full
skirt touching the ground, a flounce at edge ; high bodice, long
sleeves, satchel bag at side, large muff pelerine, edged with a
ruche of lace tied at back ; muslin cap, a large flap hat over it.
In 1727-36, the taste of the day was mock pastoral, and men
and women, as Corydons and Sylvias, tried to be mistaken for
shepherds and shepherdesses. The hoods of the ladies de-
noted their politics by their colour. The hood was succeeded
by the capuchin ; long gloves were ruffled on the arm, huge

F 2

78 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

watches and chatelaines hung at the side ; the high-heeled
shoes had infinitesimal points. In 1760, gaudy brocades and
lustring were fashionable materials.

EIZLER BERENGER. White cashmere skirt ; blue
tunic, embroidered in precious stones ; blue body, hanging
sleeves, tight satin sleeves beneath ; coronet and white veil.

ELAINE {Idylls of the King). Long golden hair, flowing
loosely ; a band of gold with stars round head. Dress of rich
gold brocade or cashmere, jewelled in front ; the bodice
comes almost to the throat, and is cut square ; it fits figure to
hips closely, where is a jewelled band ; sleeves tight, with
jewelled epaulette. Lily carried in one hand, and Lancelot's
letter in the other ; a shield on arm.

ELEANORE OF AUSTRIA (1515-1547, ^nd Wife of
Francis I. of France). Skirt touching the ground, of brocade,
or richly embroidered silk, satin, or velvet, bordered with gold
or silver, opening to show front breadth of silver brocade, a
jewelled girdle and pendant falling in the centre ; the bodice
stiff, coming to the waist, cut as low square, the front jewelled;
puffed sleeves to wrist, over them large hanging sleeves,
bordered with ermine; jewelled crown on head. Necklace
of jewels.

ELEANOR OF CASTILLE {Daughter of Henry
J I., 12th century). Dress of rich green velvet, silk, or satin,
embroidered with crosses, loose, girdled at the waist; regal
mantle from shoulder ; crown and embroidered veil.

ELECTRIC LIGHT WORN IN THE HAIR.

This is now very much the fashion in such dresses as Morning
and Evening Star, Will o' the Wisp, &c. The lights are
attached to a small battery which is hidden in the hair.

ELEMENTS. {See Earth, Air, Fire, and Water.)

ELFRIDA, as an Anglo-Saxon Queen, wears a long loose
robe of silk or cloth ; the bodice and skirt cut in one, con-
fined at the waist by a girdle, and bordered with gold ; long
hanging sleeves ; a wimple or piece of linen wrapped about
the throat ; hair loose ; the dress may be of cloth or silk ;
gold ornaments.

ELIZABETH, MADAME {Sister of Louis XVI.).
A rich dress of the period. The hair powdered, turned

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 79

off the face and curled ; long curls on shoulders ; train over
a distinct petticoat trimmed with lace and pearls ; the bodice
low, bordered with piped satin revers, turning downwards ; tulle
fichu inside, rose in front ; long tight sleeve to wrist. This
might be rendered in pink satin ; train and bodice trimmed
with roses ; grey satin petticoat and stomacher, the latter hung
with pearls, the former with lace flounces, headed by tulle
puffings and flowers.

ELIZABETH OF AUSTRIA {m/e of Charles IX. of
France). Robe of velvet or satin, trimmed with gold bands
and ermine, the front of white satin, jewelled and em-
broidered ; the bodice filled in with quilted chemisette ;
jewelled stomacher; close ruff"; large fur sleeves; jewelled
coif; tulle veil ; jewelled girdle.

ELIZABETH OF HUNGARY. Close-fitting under
dress of stockingnette ; over this a sideless gown of cream
brocade, bordered with fur; crimson borderings above, and
heavy gold ornaments. The under-dress embroidered in gold ;
the hair flowing in two long plaits, confined by a gold coronet,
studded with pearls ; tight under-sleeves ; loose and large
over ones, lined with crimson velvet ; long cloak fastened at
the neck with antique clasp.

ELIZABETH PLANTAGENET OF YORK

{Qtccen of Henry VII.). In the combined colours of the roses.
Brocaded petticoat ; red velvet bodice and train ; long sleeves
to hem of skirt, lined with and bordered with ermine;
the train brocaded white and gold, fastened with jewels ;
jewelled girdle and crown ; white roses in hair. Order of St
Esprit. Rich jewels ; diamonds and rubies.

ELIZABETH, PRINCESS {Daughter of Louis XVI.) .
Dress in Prison. Black stuff gown, with tight plain
sleeves to wrist, and frilled skirt sewn to waist ; muslin
fichu, with double frills, hemmed, crossed in front, the
ends tied at back ; hair in double roll, turned off face, falling
in curls at back. Dress at Court. Yellow satin skirt and
bodice, the latter a low square, with elbow-sleeves; silk scarf
tied round the waist, ends falling at back ; hair turned over
high cushion and powdered.

ELIZABETH, QUEEN OF ENGLAND, AND
HER PERIOD (1558-1603). Full skirt, touching ground,

8o FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

often jewelled round hem, gathered to bodice at waist; made
of brocade or embroidered velvet, worn over a hoop. The
bodice is stiff, with deep pointed stomacher, low in front and
embroidered with serpents, &c., or jewelled ; ruff supported
on wire at back, reaching to the head ; the hair frizzed ; a
small velvet cap and jewelled crown ; the front breadth of
dress embroidered or quilted with pearls, the sleeves puffed to
wrist with ruffles ; very pointed shoes. Velvet satm or brocade
is suitable. A velvet train bordered with ermine can be worn
from shoulders. {See also Amy Robsart). Two figures ex-
hibited in the Health Exhibition of 1884 will illustrate the
period. Lady Bacon. Large-patterned brocaded skirt
of dark blue and red, on a cream ground, distended by
huge hoops ; front of skirt of light blue silk, covered with
long muslin apron, the squares upon it formed in hem-stitch,
bordered with pointed lace ; the bodice of the brocade^ with
a front of light blue satin, having dark blue bands at the
top and waist, matching similar bands on either side of the
skirt ; a plaited muslin partlet to the throat ; huge unplaited
ruff in three points from the shoulders, bordered with van-
dyked lace, and edged with wire, so that each point turns
down ; a short sleeve over tight dark blue striped ones ;
turned back cuffs of vandyked lace at the wrist ; head-dress
of Marie Stuart form, edged with lace. The other a woman
of a lower social grade ; full pink cashmere skirt, worn over
huge farthingale ; dark green paniers ; scissors tied to the side
with black ribbon ; bodice bordered with blue, showing
muslin partlet ; white collar, stiffened ; white cap with black
velvet. {See also Serving Maid, Plate XL, No. 43).

ELIZABETH, QUEEN, GHOST OF. {See White
Dresses.)

ELS A {Lohengrin). First dress of white cashmere, the
square-cut bodice coming well down on to the hips, outUned
with white worsted girdle, the two ends hanging in front ;
long sleeves caught up at elbow, showing bare arm, and
braided ; also the tunic, which falls over long plain skirt ; fair
hair flowing on shoulders. Second dress, white silk Prin-
cesse ; band of gold embroidery at hem, carried up the
front, round the high neck, and wrist of tight sleeves ;
jewelled girdle round hips ; long cloak of silver tissue from
shoulders ; crown, and gold-spangled tulle veil.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS.

EMPIRE (1805-1815). Various kinds of dress prevailed
during this period. For a while, a classical style obtained :
long flowing skirts, with peplums, the sleeves fastened with
three buttons outside the arm; the hair dressed with fillets of
gold ; this was the evening garb. In the daytime, there were
the coal-scuttle bonnets, short waists below the armpits, and
other monstrosities. When Josephine reigned at court more
graceful attire was adopted ; the court dresses were of gold
tissue, and velvets covered with gold embroideries ; for example,
white under-dress of silk, embroidered in gold ; green velvet
train from waist, worked with gold bordered with ermine ; gigot
sleeves, studded with bees ; long gloves hiding the arm.
During a portion of this period, quite short dresses were
worn; or pale blue costumes worked in cornflowers ; gathered
bodice of gold gauze, woven with gold, the waist coming under
the armpits, and made with a cape ; Indian shawl, fastened on
shoulder with the gold ornament of the period ; large Tuscan
bonnet, with birds of Paradise on the top, and blue ribbon
carried on the arm like a basket ; or white satin dress, the front
of rose du Barry satin, veiled in crepe, and lisse embroidered
in gold ; low short-waisted bodice ; stomacher of pink, with
white and gold embroidery ; long white Suede gloves ; hair
dressed high, rose du Barry plume. Long satin over-skirt,
looped up ; double-breasted bodice, and cape ; tie of lace ;
large hat. A good costume for a middle-aged w^oman at fancy
ball. (See Plate XIIL, Fig. 50.)

ENCHANTRESS. Long skirt of ruby satin, bordered
with gold, caught up on one side to show border of mystic
characters in black velvet ; long black velvet sleeveless robe,
opening over ruby vest, covered with gold suns, stars, serpents,
and scorpions ; striped Oriental scarf round hips ; large mantle
of dun-coloured cloth, bordered with velvet, attached to
shoulders ; head-dress, an ibis with outstretched wings, on a
scarlet cap, with band of carbuncles ; wand with serpents
interlaced; heavy gold jewellery. (See Hubbard, Mother,
AND Sorceress).

ENGLAND. Skirt of cream bunting, the lions of
England painted on each of the battlements in which the edge
of the skirt is cut ; the Union Jack and Standard of Scotland
draped with Prince of Wales' plumes, ostrich feathers ; dark
blue velvet bodice, made quite plain, and trimmed with gold

82 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

and small Union Jacks ; fan covered with Union Jack ; head-
dress a helmet ; effigy of St. George and the Dragon round
neck. {See Plate IV., Fig. i6.)

ENID {Idylls of the King). A sweeping robe of gold-
embroidered stuff, the bodice square, very long and pointed,
bordered with fur and gold braid, carried round the neck and
down the front in the form of a stomacher ; the sleeves hang
from elbow ; the hair in two long plaits ; a jewelled coif or
fillet on head. Sometimes the bodice is cut as a low square,
showing white chemisette, also cut low in neck, the trimming
bordering the top and surrounding an all-round basque, reach-
ing to hips and up the front ; tight sleeves, one puff at top.

ERIN, IRELAND, HIBERNIA. A fashionable even-
ing dress of green and white tulle, trimmed with shamrocks and
gold harps ; wreath of shamrocks ; or a white or green cashmere
classic robe, with green satin peplum, the low full bodice and
pendent sleeves bordered with gold-embroidered shamrocks ;
small gold harps on shoulders ; wreath of gold shamrocks ;
gold ornaments ; or a petticoat of cloth of gold ; green velvet
train and bodice worked with shamrocks; gold girdle; velvet
cap and coronet of shamrocks.

ESMERALDA. A rich gipsy dress in yellow, black, and
scarlet satin, made short, trimmed with coins and gold braid ;
a sash of gold tissue tied about the hips, a tambourine carried
in hand ; bracelets above and below elbow, united by coins ;
stay-bodice with coins and gold braid ; gold net with sequins ;
ornaments, sequins. Sometimes (as in Coloured Illustration
No. V.) the skirt is red, trimmed with gold, and the bodice
takes the form of a loose black jacket, with full yellow vest of
soft silk.

ESMERALDA, PRETTY. Yellow satin box-plaited
skirt, with lace flounces, draped on the side, with red satin
embroidered in gold ; black satin bodice and jacket, em-
broidered in gold, with pockets at side ; large black and gold
scarf tied at the side.

ESMOND, VISCOUNTESS. Black velvet dress with
flame coloured petticoat, lace kerchief about the shoulders ;
many rings on her fingers ; spaniel, and snuff box carried in the
hand ; red shoes, gold clocked stockings • bushy black curls,
surmounted by a border of lace.

ESMERALDA

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 83

ESTAFELLE. White satin skirt, green satin tunic tied
back with various coloured ribbons ; high jacket of green
satin, with white waistcoat and red revers, short sleeves.

ESTHER, QUEEN. White cashmere under-robe bor-
dered with gold, cut low at neck, with sleeves coming from a
band at shoulders and flowing at the back ; over this a sleeve-
less dress, cut heart-shape in front, and fastened with massive
gold girdle ; beads round neck; gold girdle ; a cashmere veil
reaching to feet ; gold-pointed coronet j sandalled shoes.
At a memorable ball in Paris, Queen Esther, who had auburn
hair, wore it inter-plaited with pearls; a cap, of oriental material,
had a black aigrette and diamond stars, like the one Mdme.
de Pompadour, as Queen Esther, wore in Van Tor's picture.
The train was of moss green, embroidered in blue and silver,
opening over a blue and silver satin redingote ; red satin
trousers, embroidered in gold ; and slippers worked in gold
and pearls. The train was borne by a page.

EU MEN IDES. Red or black veils, snakes entwined
about bare arms, buskins like a huntress, rough chiton of
brown, or black, or blood-coloured, girt with skins of snakes ;
other serpents bind their waists, and their garments are
embroidered with snakes' eyes.

EUROPE is generally carried out by the national dress of
some European country, say Italy, Spain, or France. Or with
a white cashmere classic robe {see Classic), with a battle-
mented crown, bearing the names of the different countries.
The ornaments on the dress are white bulls.

EVANGELINE. As a Normandy peasant, with kirtle
or petticoat of blue ; the tunic, which may match or be of
contrasting colours, drawn through the slit at back ; large ear-
rings and cross ; white Normandy cap ; a rosary hanging at the
side ; the bodice square, with chemisette beneath. i^See Nor-
mandy.)

EVE, Dress of white India muslin, trimmed with apples,
leaves, and blossom ; fig-leaves for pockets ; out of one peeps
a serpent's head with emerald eyes, out of the other falls a
triplet of white lilies ; a wreath of small apples, flowers, and
leaves ; necklace, a serpent of gold and silver enamel in red
and blue.

EVENING AND EVENING STAR. {See Star.)

84 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

EXPRESS. Trained skirt of steel- coloured satin, edged
and bound with black velvet, showing a series of rails in
steel braid ; skirt stiff at back, the hem edged with a row of
movable wheels, which must turn at every movement of the
wearer. The front of the skirt is of black velvet, striped
downwards ; steel-coloured cuirass ; miniature steam engine in
flowing hair, with grey feathers issuing from the funnel ; and
wheeled skates for shoes.

FAIR LOCKS {Fairy Tale). Dress of gold tissue and
white silk, with gold trimmings ; long skirt ; full, low, banded
bodice ; short sleeves.

FAIR MAID OF PERTH. White satin skirt of walk-
ing length, with low pointed bodice ; stomacher of ruby velvet ;
sky-blue satin braces ; long sleeves gathered perpendicularly
to the wrist, with ruby velvet cuffs ; short cloak of tartan satin
from the shoulders ; blue satin Scotch cap, bound with ruby
velvet.

FAIR ROSAMOND. {See R.)

FAIR STAR {Fairy Tale). Evening dress of white satin
and silver tulle. A star over the forehead.

FAIRY. Short tulle diaphanous dress, with low full bodice,
covered with silver spangles ; silver belt at waist ; wings of
gauze on wire attached to back ; hair floating ; a silver circlet
on the head. Or, for a Fairy Queen, a crown, the wand,
to be carried in hand, becoming a sceptre. Stars should be
introduced on the dress and on the satin shoes. {See Plate
XVI., Fig. 6 1.)

FAIRY GODMOTHER. {See Hubbard, Mother.)

FALCON {Tennyson). In this piece Mrs. Kendal wore a
dress of Venetian red plush over a richly embroidered antique
gold cloth, profusely braided and studded with jewels.

FALCONERY. Short skirt of dark cloth, red, blue, or
brown ; green velvet skirt caught up on one side ; long basqued
jacket of the same ; gauntlet gloves with hawk on the hand.
Cavalier hat with drooping feathers ; high boots.

FALKA. Riding jacket of cream satin lined with red,
slung from shoulder over grey embroidered bodice and dress.
Black military hat.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 85

FANS. White satin evening dress embroidered with
Japanese fans. Small enamel fans for ornaments. An aigrette
with fan on the powdered hair.

FATESj THE. In antique Greek costume. (5^^ Greek.)
Clotho bears a distaff in her hand, and wears a crown with
seven stars, the robe spangled with stars. Lachesis holds a
spindle, or is represented spinning; her robe also star-spangled.
Atropos in black robe and veil ; scissors and threads of various
length ; in the hand a knife.

FAT I MA. Petticoat of white satin, striped with scarlet
and gold, and edged with deep gold fringe ; tunic of blue
satin, trimmed with gold passementerie, crescents, stars, and
pearl fringe ; scarf of scarlet cashmere, embroidered in white ;
white satin vest, trimmed with scarlet and gold ; blue velvet
Zouave jacket, trimmed with gold cord ; head-dress, turban
of scarlet and blue velvet, with chains of pearls ; veil of tulle,
embroidered with gold stars, anklets and armlets of gold.
Sometimes a mediaeval dress is worn with horned head-dress ;
the train sprinkled with jewels ; cap outlined with beads. Or
a Turkish dress, with a key hung at side. {See Turkish.)

FAVART, MADAME. Short grass-green skirt, red
tunic and square stay-bodice, white chemisette, and white
elbow-sleeves ; red stockings and black shoes ; red or black
handkerchief about the head, with coins; hurdy-gurdy in hand.
Or cream dress with grenat, or cerise and blue. These colours
may be varied.

FEBRUARY is generally represented by a French
carnival costume, one half white, the other harlequinade,
nearly covered with bells.

FEDORA. Madame Sarah Bernhardt wore a pale blue
brocatelle and embossed velvet, with large moons for bodice
and train; paniers and tunic of brocatelle ; under-skirt of dark
blue velvet, bordered with bouillonnes. Another dress : bodice
and train of Pompadour brocade, flowered over with roses,
front moussehne de soie of a light blue shade, trimmed with
lace ; elbow sleeves, and epaulettes.

FEN ELLA (Fez'eri'/ of the Peak). Red silk Turkish
trousers ; short green skirt, trimmed with lace and pearls and
Arabesque figures in gold ; white satin front breadth ; Oriental

86 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

scarf knotted round waist, with dagger ; green velvet jacket
bodice, open at neck, bordered with fur; crimson cap and
eagle's feather ; white and gold veil ; feather fan. Dark hair
hanging about shoulders.

FERN. Bodice and tunic of brown satin, bordered with
fern-leaves, falling over green tulle dress, mixed with ferns,
moss, primroses; brown velvet round the neck; ornaments
of enamel ferns ; fern wreath on head.

FIAMETTA \La Mascotte). First dress : Riding-costume
of scarlet cloth, felt hat, and leather gauntlets. Second dress
as gipsy : Short white skirt ; tunic and bodice of amber ; scarf
round hips ; square bodice, sleeves to wrists ; with a scarf of
many colours tied to form a head-dress ; hair hanging down
back ; gold ornaments ; tambourine. Or, crimson and gold
satin dress, with red stockings, gold sandals, red handkerchief
tied round the head.

FIFTEENTH CENTURY COSTUMES. During
so long a period various changes of attire held good, but the
style which at fancy balls is generally supposed to represent
the century is a full plain skirt, bordered a quarter of a yard
deep with ermine, belt of the same round the waist ; the skirt
looped on one side over plain petticoat ; braces on the plain
heart-shaped bodice, also of ermine, with a stomacher and
horned head-dress.

FIGARETTE. A pretty mixture of red, black, and
yellow, the skirt cut into alternate Vandykes, and edged with
gold ; a white apron, red scarf round the hips, black cocked
hat, brilliant yellow sleeves. This is a short costume, with
plenty of gold trimming and gay colouring.

FILEUSE. ^See Spinning-Girl.)

FILLE D'AUBERGE. Short sky-blue and crimson-
striped skirt ; pale blue tunic, trimmed with white lace ; black
velvet bodice, laced with crimson ; white fichu, and high white
muslin cap ; crimson stockings ; ornaments, silver earrings and
cross. Any French peasant dress will do.

FILLE DU REGIMENT. (6"^^ Vivandiere.)

FILLE DU TAMBOUR-MAJOR, STELLA. High
boots ; short skirt of red, blue, and white stripes, with a hori-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 87

zontal band of red just above the hem ; black cloth military
jacket, with jockey basque at the back, pointed in front; a
white cloth plastron covering the chest ; red and white facings
to the cuffs, and gold buttons ; a keg slung across the shoulder ;
muslin apron ; hair curled in front, tied at back en queue with
black ribbon; cocked hat, with tri-coloured rosette. The
dress of the Fille du Tambour-Major in the first act is
white skirt, with lace-edged flounce; tunic and bodice
of grey cashmere with black ribbon ; velvet braces ;
square linen collar coming well down to the bust back and
front ; a black velvet bow on the head. All the girls in the
convent school are similarly attired, with a puritanical quiet-
ness which in fancy ball-rooms always has so marked and good
an effect among the gay dresses.

FINLANDER. Blue cloth petticoat, the edge em-
broidered with crimson ; full white bodice to the throat ;
sleeves to wrist, rosettes of red down the front; red sash,
knotted at the side ; velvet sleeveless bodice bordered with
gold. Red handkerchief tied round head. A long embroidered
over-dress is also worn by the peasantry.

FIRE. Black tulle evening dress over red silk, tunic or
train fringed with red and gold tinsel, bodice and skirt dotted
with stars of the same, as also the veil ; coronet of tinsel to
resemble flames ; ornaments, garnets. Torch carried in hand.
It may also be carried out with black and crimson velvet
embroidered with flames, or in flame-coloured tulle.

FIRE -FLY. Under-skirt and jacket of black velvet;
tunic of flame-coloured llama cut in scallops ; gold tissue
introduced round velvet skirt and on puffings of sleeves ; cap
of black velvet and flame-coloured llama ; black and gold
gauze wings ; fan of black and gold.

FISHGIRLS, FISHWIVES, &c. Boulogne Fish-
wife. Scarlet flannel skirt, high black jacket, sleeves to
elbow turned up with muslin, band of scarlet at neck, black
and white tunic h la laveuse — viz., turned up in front and
caught together at back ; cap like a net, with stiff gouffered
frill round the face ; scarlet half-handkerchief over this ;
pockets of white calico outside the dress ; large gold earrings
and cross. Calvados Fishgirl. Blue and white striped
skirt, black tunic, and low bodice trimmed with cross-cut

88 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

bands piped with red and white, over white chemisette ;
muslin cap ; gold ornaments. French Fishgirl. Red and
white striped skirt, navy-blue tunic a la laveuse ; muslin- lace-
edged apron with bib, fichu (the ends tucked into bib), and
cap with red ribbons. Or for a Matelotte, the cap is re-
placed by sailor tarpaulin hat ; the hair down. Bayonne
Fishwife. Red skirt, edged with black velvet ; black
velvet low bodice, white linen sleeves ; handkerchief over
shoulders ; red handkerchief round head ; gold cross and
earrings; fish basket. Scotch, Edinburgh, or Newhaven
Fishwoman. Navy-blue under-skirt, one of yellow and
white above, with three tucks, laveuse tunic of blue and
white striped flannel ; Garibaldi bodice of flowered chintz,
the sleeves rolled to elbow ; a coloured handkerchief round
neck; short white linen apron, turned up and forming two
pockets; a jacket of duffel, like a man's coat, tied by the sleeves
round neck ; muslin cap, with coloured handkerchief tied
over it under chin ; creel at back. Or, navy-blue and white
underskirt, laveuse tunic of blue and white striped flannel ;
Garibaldi bodice of flowered chintz, the sleeves rolled to elbow,
coloured handkerchief, with muslin cap {See Plate V., Fig. 20).
All these dresses are short. Black shoes with high heels, and
coloured bows and stockings are worn, and mittens or bare
hands, gloves are out of place. A basket of fish at the back ;
a net slung round waist with fish attached. Fisher Girl.
Skirt of reseda plush draped with a net, and fish attached ; the
bodice is trimmed with lobsters and crabs, the shoulders
covered with seaweed, the whole skirt with crabs, starfish, and
shells ; the net tunic, with fish and coral, and with a lobster ;
hair flowing, seagull on shoulder. Fisherwoman of
Zuyder Zee. Petticoat of brown or dark blue frieze, red
apron with bib embroidered with floral designs pinned in
front of a sleeveless jacket, to match the petticoat and hooked
at the back; the under-skirt of striped calico, just visible at
the back, the neck and arms covered with the same ; close-
fitting cap of coloured satin ornamented over the forehead
with gold and silver tinsel cloth. Swedish Fish Girl.
Wears a sugar-loaf hat of black velvet, gay coloured handker-
chief or cape with a silver necklace worn over it; white
linen Garabaldi with full white bishop sleeves to wrist ; black
velvet belt and shoulder straps, blue skirt, apron striped
horizontally, grey stockings and black shoes. Calais Fish

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS.

Girl. Plaited muslin cap, close to the face, not standing out
in an aureole, as in the case of the Boulogne Fish-girl ; very
dark blue skirt, with light blue stripes, light blue jacket
buttoned in front and apron to match. Dieppe Fishwife.
Sleeveless vest of black "bure " or serge made double-breasted
and fastened at the side by bone buttons ; under-dress of stout
linen, long sleeves tucked up above the elbow, a ruching
visible along the neck of the bodice ; short plain skirt of "bure"
with large stripes; dark grey speckled stockings, high-heeled
shoes with buckles ; a high Normandy cap of white musHn,
supported by a cardboard frame; a shallow basket in brown
osiers slung round the figure. For festivals they wear a high
straight bodice, hooked down the front, with semi-fitting
sleeves, black mittens to elbow secured by bows. Gold
earrings and chain with saint Esprit. French Fisher Maid.
Blue sailor jacket bound with silver braid, blue upper skirt
with tricolour apron. Scarlet and white striped petticoat and
stockings.

FIVE-O'CLOCK-TEA. Short white skirt embroidered
with cups, saucers, and teapot ; blue tunic and bodice, muslin
fichu and apron, with dial of clock pointing at 5, embroidered
teapot beneath ; head-dress, a tea-cosy ; silver chatelaine, with
teaspoons and sugar-tongs ; ornaments, silver spoons, and
cups. Instead of embroidery, chintz cups and saucers may be
gummed on. Long dress of soft terra-cotta silk, with belted
heart-shaped bodice, long hanging sleeves, with saucers
painted over them, small cap like a saucer, with aigrette of
sugar-tongs ; spoons round the neck.

FLAG, BRITISH. Tricolour skirt, draped with Union
Jack, the bodice ornamented with a flag to match. Or, brown
dress looped with white flags ; white sash across the bodice
with name of yacht, and burgee in hair. (See Yacht.)

FLAG, PILOT. Two flags on one side of black tulle
skirt; the head-dress crossing hals way down, and composed of
india-rubber tubing, from which is suspended a pilot flag, navy
scarlet, and white silk ; two smaller flags in front of bodice,
two carried in the hand.

FLAME. {See Fire.)

FLORA. A white silver-spangled tulle evening dress

90 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIliED ; OU,

covered with flowers ; shoes embroidered with the same ; veil
dotted with small blossoms ; a maypole or a cornucopia
carried in the hand. Or a classic dress with floral insignias.

FLORIAN SHEPHERDESS. Short skirt, trimmed
with white flounces ; lilac silk tunic, looped with garlands of
flowers ; pink silk tunic draped as paniers ; pointed bodice ;
muslin stomacher crossed with ribbons, rosettes at each side ;
the bodice bordered with pink passementerie, short sleeves,
silk cape, with ruffles ; pink hat, lined with lilac, pink roses ;
crook with flowers.

FLEMISH COSTUME OF XVIIth CENTURY.

Pale pink satin skirt, trimmed with gold braid ; brown velvet
bodice, with pink satin stomacher, cut low at back, having two
upstanding collars of velvet lined with satin ; fichu of gold
embroidery behind these collars ; four rows of beads round
throat, two falling on bust ; sleeves, two large puff's, divided
by jewels ; rest of sleeves tight to wrist, with ruffles ; large hat
and feathers'

FLEMISH FLO^V^ER GIRL. Black velvet pointed
bodice, and short skirt ; muslin stomacher, and puff'ed sleeves
to wrist, with a shaped band of velvet covering the fore-arm.
The bodice is laced across with black velvet, and has an
upstanding collar, edged with silver braid. Over-skirt, pink
cashmere ; embroidered muslin apron ; high felt hat, velvet
brim, and pink feather ; pouch iDag at side, slung by cord ;
pretty plaited lace caps are worn. (See also Vierlander.)

FLEUR D'ETE. (6"^^ Flowers.)

FLEUR DE CHAMPS. Petticoat of striped silk, rose
and white, trimmed with rows of velvet, edged with gold ; a
green satin tunic looped up with wheat ears ; on the right side
a bouquet of wild flowers ; velvet bodice, Louis XV. style,
trimmed with gold ; a collar of green satin, forming revers ;
apron, with lace pocket and bib ; a coquettish hat, with wild
flowers, and placed on the side of the head.

FLEUR DE LYS. Brocaded skirt over a farthingale,
silver lilies embroidered on satin tunic, bertha studded witli
lilies, and fastened with silver lily ; hair powdered, diamond
lily in the hair,

FLEUR DE THE. A Japanese costume made of

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 9 1

Japanese cotton, with broad band of Oriental twill, gold silk
tunic, broad sash ; embroidered fans ; gold pins in the hair.

FLEURETTE. Red satin short quilted skirt; white
brocaded over-dress, trimmed with lace and flowers ; powdered
hair ; S(juare bodice ; ruffles ; fan ; red stockings ; black shoes.
Also a Normandy or Breton peasant costume with sabots.

FLORA MACDONALD. White satin dress, made
with plain skirt and half-high bodice ; hair in curls ; plaid of
Macdonald tartan (Clan Ronald) over the head; buckled
shoes ; long mittens.

FLORA MclYOK {lVa7'er/e}'). White silk skirt and low
bodice ; tartan scarf draped loosely across, secured with Scotch
brooches on shoulders ; long hanging sleeves ; hair in curls ;
black velvet Scotch bonnet with plumes.

FLORENTINE LADY (from Taddeo GaddVs picture).
Dress of rose-coloured satin over a peacock-green skirt ;
bodice square and close-fitting, bordered with gold braid ;,
tight sleeves, with pendent ones from shoulder, trimmed with
ermine, which is also carried down the side of skirt, made as^
a train, open half a yard from edge, on both sides showing
under-dress ; skull cap of green velvet, embroidered in rose-
and gold colour, with tulle veil ; hair flowing.

FLO^WER-GIRL. May be carried out in various ways..
A tulle evening dress besprinkled with all kinds of flowers, a.
straw hat with flowers on head. A poudre dress with flowers...
The most general style is a short bright-coloured skirt, velvet
bodice, laced stomacher, muslin apron with or without bib,,
bunches of flowers about them ; a basket of the same in hand y.
a straw hat with ribbons, or a wreath of flowers. {See Plate V.,
Fig. 1 8, also Vierlander). Sometimes a chiffonier's basket is
carried at the back filled with flowers, and a Normandy cap
worn. A pretty dress is a laced bodice and skirt of pale blue
serge, edged with rows of velvet ; cambric apron ; basket of
flowers; sleeves puffed to wrist. Or, a pink sateen, with black
velvet bodice. A Vaudois flower girl wears a wheel-shaped
lace cap, and straw hat above, with woollen skirt ; square
bodice ; low under-bodice ; velvet yoke, and ribbon streamers.
Sometimes bright-coloured silk handerchiefs are draped about
the head.

92 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

FLOWERS. A fashionable evening dress trimmed with
any flower, and called after it, is the easiest kind of fancy cos-
tume ; a tulle veil with wreath is often worn with this, and
china floral ornaments ; a basket of the flowers carried in the
hand. Sometimes the flower is imitated ; as for example :
Blue Belle, blue shoes, stockings, and short skirt cut in
Vandykes, yellow bodice, cap like an inverted bell, with green
stalk. Sometimes the dress is the colour of the flower, viz., a
violet evening gown made up with silver gauze and green leaves
for a Violet. Forget-me-not, blue satin dress, border of
flowers, muslin fichu and cap, apron trimmed to match, blue
hose, shoes, and mittens; or the dress is embroidered with wild
flowers, wallflowers, apple-blossom, ivy, fern, snowdrop, la mar-
guerite, heartsease, forget-me-nots, buttercups, or any flower per-
rsonated. Fleur d'ete, Fleur des Champs, and Oracle
■des Champs, can be rendered after these fashions ; or if more
•of a fancy costume is desired, the lower part of skirt is gathered
in diamonds, and outlined with silver or gold braid, or leaves
and flowers ; the bodice made d la Louis XV., and trimmed
with gold or silver ; an apron with bib, and a coquettish hat at
one side of the head entwined with the particular flower.
For Water-lily, see Water-nymph ; for Rose, see R. ; Pear
and Apple Blossom, &c.

FLY. Black tulle dress, veiled with dark blue gauze ; wings
of the same ; low bodice ; a cap representing the head of fly.

FOG. Smoke coloured net, with silk bodice, and tulle
scarf bound round figure ; long grey gloves ; shoes, hose, and
fan, all deep grey.

FOG, YELLOW. Carried out in deep orange tulle, with
one skirt of grey tulle thrown all over it ; a veil of grey over
orange tulle falling from the one shoulder ; hose, shoes, and
gloves orange.

FOLLOW MY LEADER {Sforefs Picture). Red-coat
bodice, with revers ; wide silk band and sash about the waist ;
cocked hat and feathers ; short blue skirt.

FOLLOW THE DRUM. Short dark blue skirt and
jacket, braided with gold and red facings ; three-cornered hat
and long white feather ; drum carried at side. {See Vivandiere.)

FOLLY, FUN. Short white satin skirt with plaited

17. "Jroilx^.

18.fU.«v9-.i£(

/CC . lUruioai? C4^- .ht^io ^/vJi

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY F,ALLS. 93

flounce, three over-skirts, of alternate colours, cut in Vandykes,
edged with gold braid, a bell at each point ; low bodice and
short sleeves, w^ith bertha and basque cut in points of alternate
colour, tipped with bells ; cap of the two shades, like an
inverted cornucopia ; a fool's bauble, viz., doll's head and
skirt, carried in hand ; ornaments, bells. Good mixtures of
colour are pink and blue ; red, yellow, and black ; blue and
red. Or, square cut bodice with square collars and streamers,
bordered with bells ; high boots. (See Plate V. Fig. 17.)
Goddess of FoJly, white satin dress made en sacque,
decorated vv'ith discs of black velvet ; a fool's cap to match.
Priestess of Folly wears a white satin sleeveless robe and
the black velvet Phrygian cap ; silver snake ornaments ;
powdered hair. {See also Polichinelle.)

FOOTWOMAN OF THE FUTURE. Black satin
quilted skirt ; maroon double-breasted tail-coat, brass buttons ;
black waistcoat showing beneath the jacket in front, and
lace ruffles ; hair powdered ; tricorn black and gold hat ; gold-
headed cane in hand. {See Plate V., Fig. 19.)

FORD, MRS. {Merry Wives of Witidsor). Pink silk skirt
of walking length, with rows of black velvet, worn over hoop ;
a black velvet train bunched up ; low black pointed bodice,
pink bows down front ; a muslin fichu edged with lace over
neck, with bow in front ; five rows of pearls tight round throat ;
sleeves to elbow, with ruffles ; hair turned off face in double
roll, and powdered ; black hat, with pointed crown and pink
ribbons, and bound with pink ; pink stockings and black
shoes. Any colour is admissible.

FORGET-ME-NOT. Skirt formed of festoons of blue
tulle ; baby bodice of same, with short sleeves, all bordered
with forget-me-nots ; hair loose ; head-dress of blue silk like
large inverted forget-me-not, with green stalk ; blue shoes. {See
Flowers.)

FORTUNE AND FORTUNE-TELLER. (6*^^ Gipsy.)

FOUNDLING DRESS. {See Charity Girls.)

FOURTEENTH CENTURY COSTUME. The

distinguishing features are : flowing skirts ; bodices coming
\vell down on hips, with stomachers ; cloak from shoulder ;
head-dress with veil. Sumptuary laws prevented the wearing

G 2

94 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

of costly fur by any but noble ladies or their attendants. This
period includes the reigns of Edward 11. III., Richard 11. ,
Henry II. It was a time when very extravagant materials
were employed. The spencer or jacket bodice was bordered
with fur, having sleeves to wrist, and often long pendent ones
over these. The Cote-Hardie was also worn. Parti-coloured
dresses were adopted; and the sideless garment faced with
fur ; long streamers from the elbow. The reticulated head-
dress towards the latter part of the century showed the hair
gathered in a caul at side, a veil at back.

FRANCE. Short white satin dress with stripes of red,
white, and blue, emblazoned with arms in gold ; low bodice
draped to correspond, gold filigree eagle on the shoulders,
and in the hair with bows of red, w^hite, and blue ; square fan
covered with red, white, and blue. Or, white satin dress, the skirt
trimmed with three rouleaux of colour, interlaced with gold
cord, two satin pockets in front, with two tricolours escaping
from them, festooned at the side, and joined to two sash-ends
of tricolour at the back ; long satin bodice of pale grey,
trimmed with gold; scarlet satin cap; shoes; white stockings
with red clocks.

FRANCIS I. {Time of), costume worn by Duchess of
Leinster at Marlborough House Fancy Ball. Green satin
petticoat, with three rows of gold embroidery ; gown of
scarlet, opening in front, jewelled on either side, the whole
covered with gold embroidery ; close-fitting low square pointed
bodice, jewelled girdle and pendant ; rows of jewels at top of
bodice ; full slashed and puffed sleeve to wrist, of white and
green ; open hanging sleeves of red satin, lined with sable,
fastened with jewelled clasps at elbow, lace ruffles; head-
dress, a coronet of jewels. At this time very handsome
stuffs were worn ; it is identical with the Tudor period in
England.

FRANCIS II. (1559-1560.) Is identical with'the Medicis
period. A grande dame of the court would wear an under-skirt
and sleeves of white satin, embroidered at the feet ; bodice
and skirt of blue velvet richly embroidered down the sides ;
the square bodice pointed at the waist ; outlined with
jewelled band and festooned with jewels ; wired lace ruff from
shoulders ; sleeves one puff to elbow, white satin slashed with
blue; three puffs to wrist ; Marie Stuart jewelled coif, jewelled

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 95

girdle hanging in front ; veil of gold and gauze floating at
back.

FREEMASON, FEMALE. Black velvet dress; white
satin Watteau sacque, trimmed with svvansdown ; swansdown
ruff at throat ; hair powdered ; quaint velvet hood, studded
with pearls and Masonic emblems ; a Master Mason's apron
and collar of office, with pendent gauntlets and Masonic
jewels ; clock at girdle.

FRENCH PEASANT-GIRL. Pink and white striped
petticoat, short blue and white over-skirt ; black velvet basqued
bodice, low square, with shoulder-straps ; white low chemisette
and short sleeves, bodice laced in front over white, with blue
and white cord ; white apron, with pink and blue bows ;
dainty muslin cap. This character admits of many varieties
and mixtures of colour. {See also White Dresses. For
other French costumes see Empire, Incroyarle, Mer-
VEILLEUSE, Boulogne Fishwife, Normandy, &c.)

FRIESLAND PEASANT. The bust is encased in
two bodices, one of cloth with sleeves of bright-coloured silk ;
over it another, tightly laced with red or yellow ribbon, the
tags of gold or silver on the left side for unmarried, on the
right for married women. Out of doors, a short jacket with
sleeves of printed calico, embroidered in gold or silver, is worn.
The head-dress is most peculiar, made of striped calico, and
kept out in a helmet shape by starch. It is after the old
Phrygian order. The under-petticoat is of crimson cloth,
with black border; over it a black plaited one, with velvet
border ; silk apron ; chatelaine silk bag, with silver mountings ;
bunch of keys hanging on other side.

FRIQUETTE {Les Pres St Genmse). Short blue silk
skirt, with white muslin lace-edged flounces ; muslin apron with
forget-me-nots and roses on pockets ; muslin kerchief and high
Cauchoise cap, with forget-me-nots ; hair in long plaits ; high-
heeled shoes, blue stockings.

FROST. (6*^^ Winter.)

FROST, MRS. JACK. Poke bonnet for head-dress;
white dress and cloak.

FUCHSIA. Dress of red satin, made in the form of a
fuchsia, and laced up the back ; sleeves also shaped like

g6 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

fuchsias, with pearl and other pendent beads ; cap of fuchsia
form ; small fuchsias attached to bracelet and necklet. Or, a
bodice made with no visible fastening, an effect produced by-
turning up the two back leaves and having them laced
together after dress is on ; sleeves in the form of fuchsia
with the stamens falling on the arm to elbow ; made of pearls
and other beads ; cap ; a complete fuchsia necklace and
bracelets formed of several pendent fuchsia.

FUN. (See Folly.)

GABRIELLE D'ESTREES (Mispress of Henry IV.),
1589. She was dazzlingly fair, with brilliant dark eyes, and
had abundant hair worn brushed back from the forehead and
temples in a double roll, and encircling the head in coils,
entwined with pearls. Her rich brocades stood alone. Flemish
or English point lace should be worn. Bodice long-waisted,
close-fitting, high to neck, with Elizabethan ruff. She was
fond of black satin, embroidered in pearls and precious
stones. Her dainty silk stockings and high-heeled shoes were
famous. Violet velvet over skirt and bodice ; sleeves trimmed
with fine Indian muslin to wrist ; plain white satin under-skirt
trimmed with gold lace, and gold cord over a farthingale ;
violet velvet head-dress, with ^ white feathers; large ruff of
pointed lace.

GAINSBOROUGH {After), generally represented by
the famous Duchess of Devonshire. This celebrated picture
was 60 inches high by 45 wide ; it was supposed to have been
painted about 1783. It is described as "Duchess of Devonshire
in a white dress, and blue silk petticoat and sash, and a large
black hat and feathers." The figure is shown only to knees.
Supposed to be a portrait of Georgiana, the beautiful Duchess
of Devonshire. In 1876, it was purchased for ;^io,iooby
Mr. Agnew, and shortly after it was stolen. Blue satin flowing
skirt ; long over-skirt of figured cream silk ; long sleeves and
belted bodice of same ; kerchief, bordered with frill, crosses in
front, ends disappear in waist band. Hair powdered, and
turned off face in a large roll, larger at the sides than the top,,
ends curled, floating on shoulders ; or the hair powdered ; long
strip of muslin entwined with it, forming a turban ; almond-
coloured kid mittens ; high-heeled black shoes ; very large hat
of velvet or satin, with plumes. May be carried out \w

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 97

velvet, brocade, or satin ; diamonds, pearls, and old lace.
A simpler style after this artist is a short, scanty, white
muslin dress, with a flounce round the edge, blue sash with
large bow at back ; muslin fichu and cap bordered with
frills ; tight sleeves to wrist. (See Plate VI., Fig. 24.) Lady
Barbara Yelverton (after Gainsborough). Wears a
plain white muslin gown with short sleeves ; ruched at the neck
and elbows with bows of rose-coloured or blue ribbons; a large
sash of corresponding colour tied round the waist; an
elaborately-trimmed lace cap. A Grey Gainsboro', 1775.
Upper skirt and bodice of pale grey ottoman ; silk petticoat,
pale coral broche velvet ; hat of grey silk, with pale coral
feathers.

GALATEA. Long white cashmere skirt, Indian muslin
embroidered with a Greek scroll. A peplum of the same
coming from the shoulders, forming points at the side, termi-
nating in tassels, bordered with gold braid and fringe ; armlets
and bracelets with chains ; gilt band round the head and
waist, hair flowing.

GALICIAN MATRON. Skirt of dark coloured
brocaded cloth in plaits a quarter of a yard wide ; bodice
buttoning in front, with a double turn-down cape, edged
with narrow plaiting and buttons, showing white under-bodice,
with two up standing frills, and many beads ; bonnet made
of same material with white lining in front, and revers of
same material dress ; tight sleeves to elbow.

GARDE CHAMPETRE. Short brown skirt draped
with dark blue velvet ; bodice of the same, high, and jacket-
shaped with brass badge on the sleeve ; high hat covered with
birds ; red necktie.

GARDENER'S DAUGHTER {Ficture by Mdlle.
Achilles Fould). Chiffonier's basket slung at back, with
flowers therin ; lace fichu tied carelessly round the neck ; red
woollen skirt ; white muslin apron ; black bodice loosely
buttoned in front ; white sleeves peeping below tight long ones ;
a bunch of flowers in the hand.

GAULEUSE DE POMME. Short petticoat of blue;
over-skirt and bodice of white and chocolate stripe, with blue
waistcoat cut low in front ; white muslin short sleeves, pay-

98 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

sanne cap of muslin, with rosette of two colours, black shoes,
striped stockings. Basket of apples carried in the hand.

GEM OF THE OCEAN, THE. The idea of this
dress is taken from the anemone tanks of an aquarium. The
dress, pale coralline satin ; the trimmings, fringes, and groups
of natural seaweeds, all of the most delicately-tinted kinds,
small pearly shells, and large pink anemones, imitations of the
real actiniae, with their spreading tentacles placed here and
there all over the dress — on the shoulders, front of bodice, and
in the hair (interspersed with seaweed), and looping up the
poufs of satin on the skirt. Very palest shade of green would
have a charming effect. Shell ornaments round the neck.

GENERAL {Lady). High leather boots, kilt-plaited red
cloth skirt, green cloth pointed bodice fastened at the side ;
field glass slung round figure ; cocked hat.

GENEVA SISTER, AMBULANCE NURSE, RED
CROSS NURSE, SISTER OF CHARITY, OR
MERCY {after Wilkie Collitiss heroine). Black stuff
dress, hardly touching the ground, high bodice, sleeves to
wrist, linen collar and cuffs ; muslin cap. At Fancy Balls
the dress is sometimes made of green merino ; bibbed apron
of cambric, the lower edge turned up, forming pockets, with
rolls of lint for bandages, and small cases of plaster; the
badge, viz., a red cross on white, fastened on right arm below
the shoulder, either cloth or muslin. {See Plate IX., Fig. 33.)

GENEVIEVE DE BRABANT. Mediaeval skirt of
gold brocaded tissue, over-dress, bodice and tunic one side
pink the other white, trimmed with hearts and caught up
with a girdle ; it hangs as a train at back ; gold brocaded
sleeves, tight to wrist, pink satin hanging ones, lined with
amber ; steeple head-dress of pink satin bordered with ermine.
A gauze spangled veil depending.

GEORGE I., 1714-24; II., 1717-60; III., 1760-1820;
IV., 1820-30 {Time of). The ladies wore powder up to
1795, and hoops from 17 11 to George IV. 's reign. The
Georgian dress for Fancy Balls is a satin skirt, plain or
quilted, over-dress of brocade, velvet, or silk, with coloured
embroidery. Sometimes the skirt has a petticoat and tunic,
sometimes a train and front breadth trimmed with lace,
flowers, pearls, and diamonds ; the bodices pointed, low,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 99

or high square, with stomachers trimmed. Elbow-sleeves,
with ruffles ; jewelled necklaces, or floral ones, made with a
puff" of ribbon and a flower alternately, tied tightly round the
throat. Sacques were much worn {see Watteau). Feathers,
pearls, and flowers on the powdered hair ; also flat caps and
gipsy hats. In George Ist's Reign, 17 14-1724, women
wore hoops, the sacque was introduced ; the hair dressed low
and covered with frilled caps, and aprons were universally worn.
George II., 1727-1760. Long trained skirt; powdered hair,
fichus ; large hats and feathers ; sashes about waist ; lace
rufiles ; long gloves ; large gold w^atches and chains showing
at side. The taste of the day was mock pastoral, and men
and women of the court — as Corydon and Sylvias— dressed
as shepherds and shepherdesses. The hoods of the ladies
denoted their politics by the colour. The Spectator writes,
"I took notice of a little cluster of women sitting together
in the prettiest coloured hoods I ever saw ; one of them
was blue, another yellow, another philomel, the fourth
was of a pink colour, the fifth of a pale green. I am
informed that this fashion spreads daily, inasmuch that
the Whig and Tory ladies begin already to hang out diff'erent
colours, and to show their principles in their head-dress."
The hood was succeeded by the capuchin ; long gloves
were ruffled on the arms; huge watches and chatelaines hung
at the side ; the women's hoops, however, grew and grew ; they
were made of whalebone, and rendered life a struggle. How to
get in and out of a room, and how to get into a sedan,
occupied thought and attention, and the satirists of the day
hurled their shafts without mercy. In the Georgian period
the prettiest shoes found favour; high heels, pointed toes,
rosettes, diamond buckles, and embroideries. In George
III., 1 760-1820, they wore petticoats flounced, long trains,
square bodices, and wide open elbow sleeves; older women, lace
hoods. The hair was powdered, drawn off" the face over very
high cushion, and long chignons at the back with powdered
marteaux ; long buttonless gloves, often embroidered on the
outside of the hand, large painted vellum fans; bracelets, jewelled
necklaces, such as the esclavage ; rows of gold chains ; beads
or jewels falling in festoons, covering the neck ; the Macca-
roni head-dress was worn, all curls, puff's, and flowers, with long
side curls ; hoops, and paniers, bodices with long waist. {See
XVIIIth Century.) In the latter part of the reign short waists

lOO FAxNCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

came in. George IV., 1820-30. During this reign short waists
and plain short skirts prevailed, together with huge flap hats.

GERMAIN E {Les Cloches de Corneville). Brown stockings,
high-heeled black shoes ; short skirt, with two box-plaited
flounces of cerise and white silk ; plastron waistcoat of the
same ; white scarf tunic, brown velvet low square jacket-bodice
with striped pockets ; transparent sleeves from shoulders ;
cerise silk cap. Second dress : Short skirt, tunic, and low square
bodice of brown, bordered with yellow ; muslin fichu inside ;
brown cap and tassel. Blue and white, and pink and cardinal,
sometimes substituted.

GERMAN HOUSEWIFE, XVIIth CENTURY-

Stiff skirt touching the ground, lined half a yard up with
velvet, a wide band of the same above; long white apron
worked in cross-stitch ; low square velvet bodice, high white
chemisette, sleeves tight but puffed and slashed at shoulders
and elbows ; satchel bag and keys at side. This is a very
favourite style for XVIth century. German costume.
Sometimes a large linen cap and veil are added ; and a stiff
ruff like a collar, of the same material as bodice. In the
upper classes much profuse embroidery was introduced on
front of bodice and throat band.

GERMAN PEASANT. Short skirt, green or red,
plaited to waist, bordered with gold ; large square apron, white
chemisette, and long sleeves ; low velvet bodice, laced across
with silver ; round velvet cap and streamers, worn at the back
of head. This is the ordinary German peasant dress.
German Peasant Brides appear in gorgeous raiment. A
Mecklenberg bride, for example, has a high tapering silver coro-
net, rows of beads round the neck, a red sash round the waist, a
skirt of brocaded silk, the stockings red, and rosettes on the
shoes. At Starnberg the brides wear large white embroidered
aprons, almost covering the dress, and a fichu of the same
tucked into the laced velvet bodice, a wreath replacing the
usual fur-shaped busby. {See Starnberg.) At Fancy Balls
becoming dresses are more studied than the correctness of the
national costume. {See Bavarian, Black Forest, and
Austrian Peasants.)

GILLE. White silk short skirt, trimmed with box-plaited
flounces ; blue silk tunic ; coat bodice cut as low square ; vest
of blue silk; revers, cuffs, and collar of the same; short

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALIyS', : ', :„ lOt

sleeves and long gloves; white hat; black shoes; blue
stockings.

GILPIN, MRS. JOHN. Short white or brocaded dress,
with paniers and fichu, trimmed with lace ; large satin hat, and
hair poudre, or mob cap.

GIPSY, QUEEN OF GIPSIES, FORTUNE,

FORTUNE-TELLER, PEDLAR, BOHEMIENNE,
AND ZINGARI. For the pedlar and fortune-teller order of
Gipsies, a short red, black, or print skirt, loose red bodice, with
belt ; yellow handkerchief round neck, red cloak, straw bonnet,
and basket stocked with laces, clothes-pegs, cheap jewellery,
packs of cards ; bright red petticoat with band of black velvet
and gold braid on either side. Algerian tunic, velvet bodice,
low square short turreted sleeves, trimmed with gold braid and
sequins, gold cord from shoulder attached to a small dagger at
the waist ; chemisette of soft muslin with puffed sleeves tied at
elbow with black velvet ; orange and red handkerchief tied
round head, the ends crossing at back fastened with large gold
pins ; coin ornaments. Or, a striped woollen petticoat, a
blue jacket, cut V-shape at neck, lined with maize; a
muslin apron and bib, playing-cards sewn to skirt; worsted hand-
kerchief tied over head. The more ornamental Gipsy Queens,
&c., wear short dresses of red, yellow, and black satin be-
trimmed with gold, as follows : Red satin petticoat, with black
velvet and gold hieroglyphics, trimmed with coins and gold
fringe ; gold satin upper-skirt, covered with a gold trellis-work,
and Vandykes with coins, Spanish balls, and fringe ; silk scarf
of many colours round waist, stay-bodice of black velvet,
trimmed with gold, short sleeves, black velvet bag ; gold crown
with coins, bracelets and armlets united by chains, coin orna-
ments ; a tambourine in hand. This is equally applicable for
a Zingari or Bohemienne, except that a gold net and coins is
best fo'- the head. High black satin boots with gold trim-
mings, or black shoes embroidered in gold, and sometimes a
white chemisette above the low bodice, black gloves, black
stockings ; pale yellow flowered skirt, draped with jonquil
satin, crape sash studded with stars ; red satin bodice over
lace ; yellow gauze draped across the shoulders ; scarf of red
and yellow gauze about the head. {See also Portuguese
GiTANA, Preciosa, and Esmeralda, and Coloured Illustra-
tion V.)

rANC\' DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

GIRL GRADUATE. In academical robe and cap,
which may be of plain or brocaded silk in black orcolours. Or,
dark blue velvet dress with black University gown faced with
blue; doctor's hat ; scarlet stockings ; black shoes; lace cravat;
hair tied in a cue with ribbon. {See Plate VI., Fig. 21.)

GIROFLE, GIROFLA. White skirt, trimmed with
gold braid ; draped tunic, embroidered in gold and confined
by gold girdle ; bodice low, trimmed with gold lace ; ruffles ;
festoons of pearls about bodice ; Spanish comb and veil. Or,
front breadth of quilted satin intersected with pearls ; long
flowing skirt trimmed at the back with bands of colour ; square
bodice ; elbow sleeves ; Spanish veil of white lace, and high
comb.

GIRO LA {Manteaux Noir). Black satin dress with gold
braid and gold butterflies ; gold and white scarf across the
skirt ; black satin bodice embroidered with gold, sleeves of
gold beads ; head-dress of black satin and gold braid, in form
of toque ; red and white bouquet.

GITANA. Red shirt, black tunic, with black velvet
bands embroidered with gold and coins ; red body and cap ;
black gloves and shoes. {See Gipsy and Portuguese.)

GLEANER. Short yellow skirt ; red tunic ; black velvet
low bodice, laced across the front, cut in tabs at waist ; short
sleeves and low chemisette ; hat with flowers, sometimes a
coloured handkerchief wound about the head. Or, an evening
dress of maize and brown tulle, all trimmed or embroidered
with wheat, cornflowers, and poppies ; a sickle at the side ;
wheat-sheaf and wreath. Or, amber satin skirt, red over-skirt
and bodice, with large muslin kerchief; hat enriched by wreath
ofgrain and poppies; sickle at one side. Rachel the Gleaner:
orange-coloured handkerchief loosely thrown over the hair
and tied in front ; grey bodice with cream fichu, quite plain
and unfrilled ; over-skirt grey with wheat ears in the lap ;
orange-coloured petticoat ; grey stockings or tanned shoes ;
sickle in hand, and bunch of corn poppies and juettes. {See
Plate VI., Fig. 22.)

GLEE MAIDEN", THE. White satin dress, trimmed
with blue satin and silver lace, blue satin ribbons hanging from
the waist, with silver bells round the skirt ; jacket of blue
satin and silver, ornamented with bells, under which are worn

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS.

three waistcoats of different coloured brocade ; head-dress,
gold and silver net, and silver bodkin ; boots, blue satin and
silver.

GLOAMING, IN THE. Dress of grey tulle, or
muslin, or gauze over satin, made as an ordinary evening
dress, or in classic fashion; a veil of the same material ; fire-
flies imprisoned in the tulle ; bat fastened on one shoulder,
an owl on the other ; silver and smoked pearl ornaments.

GLO^WWORM. Evening dress of light brown satin or
tulle with an electric star in the hair.

GOAT GIRL. JRed and white striped skirt, with red tunic;
black velvet bodice, faced with red ; straw hat, with flowers.

GODDESS OF FOLLY. (See Folly.)

GODMOTHER FAIRY. (See Hubbard, Mother.)

GOOD LUCK. White satin dress with silver spangled
tulle ; skirt made short, bordered with a box-plaiting, on each of
which a horse shoe fastened with a nail. Over this tulle,
draperies and deep bands of satin from the waist, fastened
with horse-shoes, as if nailed down ; white satin cuirass
bodice ; diadem in form of horse shoe.

GOOSE GIRL (fairy Tale). A fashionable white satin
dress covered with silver tissue, lace, and silver trimmings.
Short skirt, low full bodice with silver belt, cap of silver tissue.

GOLD. Dress of gold tissue, with fringe and coins
introduced on it and the head-dress, fan, and ornaments. (See
Money and Coins.)

GOLD, A SHOWER OF. Short white satin petticoat,
draped with lace, the whole skirt entirely covered with gold
sequins ; round the bottom a full frill of white lace sequins and
gold fringe. Bodice of gold tissue webbing, with short sequin
sleeves ; wide band of very pale blue satin, tied round under
the arms and across the front, matching another band roiind
the head. The whole body trimmed with chains of sequins.

GOLD MINE. Dress of white and gold brocade or
tulle, made as a fashionable evening dress, trimmed with
sequins ; a painted panel let into one side, with a sketch of a
gold mine.

GOLDEN HEN. Bodice, wings, and tunic made of
brown feathers to resemble the body of the hen ; flounced
skirt of ecru lace ; belt and shoulder-sash of soft gold lace ;

104 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

gilt eggs in basket ; lace mittens outlined with gold ; hen's
head for head-dress. {See Cock.)

GOLDEN IDEA. White satin skirt trimmed with gold
braid, gauze fringe, and sequins ; polonaise of cream material
embroidered in gold, caught up with bunches of golden lilies,
ferns, and daises : bodice with revers of gold lace ; hair
powdered with gold dew, spray of golden flowers on one side ;
shoes embroidered with gold.

GOLF. Grass green tulle skirt, fringe of grass and gorse ;
scarf of sand-colour draped round waist, and ornamented with
balls and clubs ; and bright red golfing coat.

GRACE DARLING. Short skirt, striped bodice and
tunic in one, belt at waist ; sailor collar and tie ; a red silk
sailor's tasselled cap on head. Wide sleeves lined with white
and rolled up. A life-buoy fastened to back of dress, a small
lighthouse and anchor as a chatelaine, ropes round the waist,
a lighted lantern in the hand, a fishing-net on shoulder. This
may be carried out in navy blue and red and white cotton, or
serge ; or more prettily, in red, and red and white soft silk.
Hair curled, a coil at back. (^S"^^ Plate VI., Fig. 23.) A more
fanciful rendering of the character is a sky-blue petticoat
bodice and tunic of striped plush in scarlet, yellow, sage, and
brown. The tunic edged all round with red life-buoys, and
looped at the side with cord from which hang a lantern and
large life-buoy of a yellow colour; blue sailor collar; blue
turned back cuffs to the sleeves.

GRACES, THE (Aglaia, Thalia, and Euphrosyne).

Dressed in similar classic dresses, but of different colour ;
Thalia in chiton, and under-dress of pale blue and silver ; one
white and gold ; the other pale green. When intended to
represent statuary, all in white ; faces powdered ; batting over
the hair.

GRAND MADEMOISELLE, PERIOD OF THE
FRONDE (1647). White dress, immense black hat, and
cane in hand. (See Louis XIV.

GRANDMOTHER, MYGREAT, or theGhostof my
Grandmother, is generally rendered by a poudre dress of bro-
cade, with large cap, sacque, fichu, quilted skirt, high heels, and
stick ; lace mittens. Another style is a black dress with folds
of muslin crossing the bust, large cap, spectacles, and white

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. IO5

curls. For the Ghost of my Grandmother it must be all in
white.

GRANNY. Black satin gown with plain skirt ; white lace
fichu ; muslin cap ; powdered hair.

GRAPE GATHERER. Dress of red satin and purple ;
the short under-skirt red, bodice and tunic of purple, with a
panel of white satin on one side completely covered with
bunches of green and white grapes ; a basketful of the fruit
carried in hand.

GRASSHOPPER. Tight fitting suit of sage green plush,
with cap showing the .intennae ; or short green tulle dress
over satin, with two green gauze wings on the sides of skirt ;
low bodice ; cap of velvet, close fitting, with the horns of a
grass-hopper at the top ; fan, a gauze leaf, veined.

GREEK. Ancient Greek. — Wore the chiton or under-
garment of linen or wool girded round the waist ; over this
the diploidia which was wrapped round the shoulders and
fastened on one side with a brooch or button serving for a
cloak. In later days this was superseded by the chitonion, a
sort of jacket joined on the shoulders and falling in points
at the side, hiding the bodice : and also by the himation,
also draped about the figure; the whole showed beautiful
borderings of Greek designs and work. Only wool or linen
are correct riiaterials. At Fancy Balls the costume is ren-
dered by a flowing skirt of cashmere, the hem braided in gold ;
chitonion, or sleeveless jacket, draped over the figure, made
also in cashmere and braided. Gold belt, armlets, bracelets,
and fillet on head. Modern Greek. — Hair in two long plaits,
interwoven with gold ; round velvet cap and tassel ; silk
trousers to ankle ; short skirt, sleeveless paletot, opening
in front ; Zouave jacket, with long sleeves, green, red,
or blue, the usual colours, trimmed with gold — it can
hardly be too richly embroidered in gold ; an Oriental scarf
round waist, loose sleeves, and veil of gold-spangled gauze.
{See Maid of Athens. Plate XHL, Fig. 51.)

GREENMANTLE. (&^ Walter Scott.) Plain skirt
of yellow satin, slightly distended with hoops; loose green
jacket, with deep basque and hanging sleeves ; lace ruffles ;
long gloves ; fan ; black quilted hood, lined with yellow.

GRETCHEN {Faust). Plain pink short skirt; flowing
over-dress of blue ; square bodice, coming well down on the

Io6 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

hips ; long skirt sewn to edge, bordered with gold ; white
chemisette ; sleeves with white puffings at shoulder and elbow;
hair in plaits ; rosary. Or, dress of grey cashmere made long
and full, caught up with crimson bows, and a girdle and
pouch, over a crimson velvet petticoat ; square bodice, with
thick white chemisette to throat ; long sleeves puffed at the
shoulders ; hair in two long pendent plaits. Or, hair covered
with striped handkerchief, and one long plait ; grey stuff dress
looped over scarlet petticoat, edged with dark blue, on which
are rows of blue, scarlet, gold, and brown braid ; grey bodice
with brown velvet braces ; sleeves large, puff at shoulder,
upper portion plain, slashed at elbow, tight to wrist, falling
over the hand in a cuff of pointed shape ; chemisette tied
round neck with pale blue ribbons.

GREY, LADY JANE. Generally represented in grey
and white satin, or black velvet and white satin. The surcoat
opens over jewelled stomacher and kirtle, and is bordered
down the sides and bodice with ermine. The bodice is pointed
at waist, square at neck ; chemisette of satin, quilted with
pearls inside ; close honeycomb ruff at throat, a velvet coif,
like Marie Stuart's, less i)ointed, bordered with pearls ; gauze
veil. Long hanging velvet sleeves, tight under-ones of satin, wuth
ruffles ; cloth of gold, the richest jewels, velvet, and brocade
are admissible for her more prosperous days. Jewelled girdle,
often pearls. The skirt or surcoat is full, and touches the
ground. The kirtle is embroidered or quilted with pearls.
{See Plate XIV. Fig. 53.)

GRIGNAN, MADAME DE (Zom's XIV. reign).
Quilted skirt and sacque, trimmed with lace, flowers, and
pearls ; high-heeled shoes ; powdered hair ; wreath. Rose
and ruby, white and pink, yellow and violet, are happy
mixtures for this dress.

GRISELDA OLDBUCK (T/ie Antiquary). Train
and bodice of old-fashioned brocade, over satin-quilted petti-
coat, and pointed stomacher ; sleeves to elbow with large
ruffles ; lace apron ; antique gold ornaments, large eyeglass
and chain ; long embroidered gloves, high-heeled shoes and
buckles ; hair powdered, lace cap, patches.

GRISETTE DE LA VENDEE. Short grey dress ;
white apron ; low bodice made with a cape and revers, and

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I07

full ; short sleeves ; cap pointed back and front forming a
pouf over the face, J3ordered with lace.

GRISETTE OF LOUIS XV. PERIOD. Brocaded
petticoat, tunic and Pompadour bodice of contrasting shade,
hair powdered, small muslin cap and apron, high-heeled shoes,
and mittens.

GUARDIAN ANGEL. Wings of feathers attached to
side, arching above the head, and descending below knee,
made on a wire foundation, covered with net and feathers ;
loose robe of white cashmere ; hair bound with gold fillet.

GUINEVERE {Idylls of the King). Costly dress of
gold tissue, velvet, and brocade ; the skirt long and flowing,
fastened from neck to hem with jewelled clasps, if possible an
emerald in each ; square-cut bodice, with jewelled bands round ;
sleeves tight at lower part, of a distinct colour to the bodice,
the upper portion slashed, and jewels introduced ; coronet of
pearls ; hair in plaits. A long brocaded cloak enveloping the
figure may be added.

GYMNASIA. Red velvet short gown, with trapeze,
dumb bells, parallel bars, and other gymnastic paraphernalia
festooned about the bodice and skirt, and introduced as orna-
ments.

GYNETH. Long skirt of soft white woollen stuff; bodice
and tunic of grey satin bordered with gold ; jewelled girdle ;
quiver slung round waist, bow in hand ; green cap with jewels
and eagle plume.

HAGAR. Long Jewish robe of grey, with hanging sleeves
over yellow silk ; head enveloped in white muslin, hung with
coins, or a loosely twisted turban of muslin with a veil
depending therefrom.

HAILSTORM. Short dress and long veil of spangled
white tulle.

HAMBURG FLOWER GIRL. {See Vierlander.)

HAMILTON, MARY. {See Maries, the Queens.)

HARDCASTLE, MISS {She Stoops to Conquer). Short
skirt of olive green, made plain ; high-heeled shoes to match ;
pink tunic open in front, pinned back with bows ; the bodice
has elbow sleeves and a muslin fichu ; the becoming lace cap
is cut with square ends at the back, and is trimmed with green

H

I08 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

ribbon. When the piece was acted, in 1773, the first dress
was white figured with black; a silk scarf folded round the
shoulders and tied behind the waist ; hair in ringlets ; large
flat straw hat trimmed with ribbons. The second dress :
plain silk, neat apron, small cap and mittens. Mrs. Langtry in
the character appeared as follows : — First dress : pale lemon
satin petticoat puffed and trimmed with embroidery ; pointed
bodice, cut low; elbow sleeves, trimmed with old point;
satin train, with brocade of moss rosebuds and leaves on gold
ground ; point lace ruffles ; diamond buckles. Second dress :
cream embroidered India muslin and Sicilienne square
bodice, pointed in front, Watteau back, and elbow sleeves,
trimmed with marigold ribbons and marigolds ; lace ruffles
and fichu ; brown velvet hat and cream plumes ; Suede gloves.
Third dress : short skirt of blue grey cashmere rolled to
waist ; tunic at back ; pointed bodice ; elbow sleeves ; fichu
apron ; ruffles of muslin ; cap of muslin and lace, with revers ;
trimmed with coloured ribbons. Bunch of keys, scissors,
needlebook, and pincushion attached to side by red ribbon ;
grey stockings. {See Plate VII., Fig. 25.)

HARDCASTLE, MRS. Plain satin skirt ; chintz over-
dress; pointed bodice; elbow sleeves; fichu ; powdered hair; cap.

HARDY, MISS LETITIA {Belle Strafageme). In first
scene : wears grey brocaded satin gown made short; high heeled
black shoes ; pink stockings ; white muslin hood fastened
under chin with pink ribbons, and over it a hood of grey
cloth, with rose lining ; carries a grey pink lined muff. In
the next act : a white muslin and lace dress with sacque of
lemon-coloured satin brocade ; pattern of brown foliage and
blue blossoms ; wreath of yellow flowers knotted with blue
ribbon.

HARLEQUIN ETTE. Short skirt of orange, blue, and
scarlet, arranged in. diamonds ; jacket, bodice and tight sleeves,
opening over a white waistcoat, a red scarf round the hips ;
black cocked-hat, black cloth gaiters, black silk mask, and
black wand ; or wooden baton in the hand. Or, white tulle
dress and low black velvet bodice, with diamonds. Or,
orange, black, and red satin carried diagonally across skirt to hem;
mask and wand. This character is suitable for children. Or,
short pleated black, red, and yellow satin skirt draped with
red satin; tunic meeting cuirass bodice, copied from harlequin ;

VII

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I09

tight fitting coat ; short black satin shoulder cloak, with straight
upstanding collar ; lined red ruff at throat ; cocked hat ;
powdered hair. (See Arlequinette. Plate XV., Fig. 60.)

HARVEST. Maize or brown tulle evening dress,
trimmed with silver or gold lace and fringe, and chatelaines
and garlands of poppies, wheat-ears, and silver or gold oats
and corniowers, marguerites, and bunches of wheat tied with
ribbon. A small wheatsheaf carried in the hand, a sickle at
the side, diadem of field flowers. Or, gold train from the
shoulders, lined with blue satin ; cream and blue satin dress,
trimmed with gold wheat, poppies, and cornflowers ; on head,
a wreath and gold scythe ; scythes on shoulders ; flowers on fan.
August is dressed the same.

HAWKING DRESS. Skirt of dark claret velvet ; over
this a green velvet skirt, caught up at the side ; long basqued
jacket ; with gauntlet gloves, cavalier hat and drooping feather ;
high boots ; hooded falcon on wrist. XVIth-Century
Hawking Dress : Long plain cream dress ; cream velvet
over-dress ; bodice and skirt in one ; square at neck, with gold
embroidery round hem and square bodice ; rolled epaulette ;
hanging sleeves bordered with gold; caul cap; white under-
chemisette; hawk on hand.

HAYDEE. In modern Greek costume. Under-dress
embroidered in pearls and gold ; over-dress lined with a con-
trasting colour, edge trimmed with gold ; bodice and skirt in
one ; trousers of striped silk or gauze ; folded turban with
ornaments in fi"ont ; long veil and sleeves of gauze ; Oriental
shoes, suitable colourings : blue and gold, red, green and
gold. {See Greek.)

HAYMAKER. Stuff petticoat of bright colour, tunic of
a contrasting shade turned up over it ; loose chintz jacket with
belt ; large straw hat, red handkerchief or sunflower hanging on
shoulder ; basket at back, rake in hand. Or, petticoat of
sage green, with salmon coloured bodice and tunic embroidered
with grasses, buttercups and daisies, trimmings of miniature
rakes and pitchforks ; a sunbonnet tied round the neck.

HEARTS, QUEEN OF. (6*^^ Cards.)

HEARTSEASE. Yellow satin petticoat and purple

velvet tunic trimmed with gold. Or, short skirt of pale

mauve tulle trimmed with thick purple velvet ruche at edge,

lined with moss green, edged with silver cord, caught down

H 2

no FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

here and there with yellow pansies ; over-skirt, veils of shaded
tulle, the lightest at the top, covered with pansies ; long loops of
purple velvet lined with moss green at side ; pointed bodice, laced
at back, of mauve satin, the basque bordered with gold fringe,
front covered with a large purple heartsease ; elbow sleeves ;
pansy fan; pansies in hair. Or, light straw-coloured skirt,
with short veiled gold-threaded gauze ; stay bodice, straw
coloured satin trimmed with heartsease; a large one forms the
stomacher and the bodice ; a smaller one on the head.

HEBE. Classical dress of white cashmere trimmed with
gold ; loose peplum with gold belt, the sleeves short, fastened
outside the arm with three buttons ; a gold fillet about the
head ; classical ornaments.

HELEN MACGREGOR. Short tartan skirt; low
velvet bodice, laced across the front ; a plaid fastened with
a brooch on one shoulder : Scotch bonnet of black velvet with
an eagle plume and cairngorm, or red bonnet and feather ;
sword and pistol at the girdle. Or, dress of dark material, short
sleeves and skirt ; over it the Macgregor tartan, black and
fed ; hair flowing ; Scotch hat and feather ; heather collarette
.and belt ; plaid stockings. Or, plain green dress, with short
sleeves ; gold band round head ; plaid over shoulders ; Scotch
±)onnets ; word in hand.

HELEN OF TROY. Classic under-dress of white
woollen stuif, sleeveless, and just resting on the ground ; the
.bodice full, clasped on the shoulders with gold ornaments, a
gold zone at waist : over it a tunic, set in a band at neck and
. ending below the hips, open at the sides, the points ending in
a tassel ; Etruscan gold ornaments, gold armlets ; hair fastened
'in Hebe knot, with curls escaping, three fillets of gold braid ;
long veil ; sandals and gold braid. {See Greek.)

HELENA [Shakespeare). Mediaeval robe of pale blue
•satin, cut square at neck, trimmed with silver gimp or
.embroidery, the skirt trimmed and draped with silver cord ;
.a peacock fan ; Girard de Narbonne's prescription in the
satchel pocket ; wreath of ivy-leaves ; veil of silver gauze.

HELENA FORMAN. Rubens's second wife. {See

KURENS.)

HELIOTROPE. Heliotrope crepe draped with gold
brocade ; the flowers introduced on to a fashionably-made even-
ing dress.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. II T

HELOISE {frovi Heloise and Abelard). Petticoat of
white satin ; blue satin over-dress trimmed with black velvet
and gold braid ; a black velvet satchel pocket and band loops
up the skirt over the petticoat ; the bodice is cut square, and
filled in with folded muslin ; long sleeves with muslin puff at
elbow ; head-dress of blue satin and white muslin trimmed
with velvet ; veil of white muslin.

HELP, LADY. Neatly-made print dress such as domestic
servants wear, high to the throat ; sleeves to the wrist ; linen
collar and cuffs, Imen apron, a dust-pan and broom suspended
from the waist.

HEN. {See Golden Hen.)

HENRIETTA MARIA. {See Charles L)

HENRY I. Period of (1135). The sleeves, trains, and
veils, at this time were of tremendous length. There was
a long robe with a shorter garment over ; the hair hung,
in plaits; the period in the Health Exhibition of 1884
was illustrated by two figures from the Aschafifenburg library ;
one wears a white printed cotton under-garment ; a yellow,
red, and black parti-coloured habit over, called the super-
tunic or surcote, divided down back and front ; one half a
figured stuff of yellow, black, and dark blue ; the other green,
mauve, &c., the sleeves vice-versa^ fitting the arm closely to
wrist ; the garment laces in front ; the hair hangs in one long
plait encased in a woollen cover, and entwined with braid. The
other figure was a woman of higher rank, wearing a white woollen
under-dress trimmed with green, white, and slate, bordered with
braid ; over-dress green, bordered with yellow, opens at side to
show belt ; bodice round at throat, showing white under-habit;
veil at back ; band beneath chin.

HENRY II. Period of (1154-1 181). (6"^^ Eleanor of
Castille.)

HENRY III. OF ENGLAND. Period of (1216-1272).
The hair was worn in a coil, encased in gold thread ; the under-
dress was confined by a waist-band ; the sleeves to wrist had a
turn-back cuff" of lace ; the bodice was laced, and the over-dress
reached to the feet. For example, a red robe fitting the waist,
trimmed witli gold applique ; short sleeves bordered with gold,
the hem also; white head-dress with wired wings at side;
long veil ; green mantle lined white, fastened with gold clasp ;
handsome materials were worn.

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

HENRY III. OF FRANCE. Period of (1574). Dress
of period, old gold broche ; under-dress of old gold guipure ;
the bodice pointed, fastened with large, pearls ; farthingale round
hips lined with ruby satin ; over-dress meeting bodice like a
cuirass of diamonds and rubies ; rows of pearls round neck.

HENRY IV. Period of (1399-1413). The cote Hardie
flowing skirts fitting close to hips ; soft turban head-dresses
were the leading features. For example, long skirt of pink
cashmere ; grey bodice, trimmed wdth fur, forming a stomacher
or surcote ; tight grey sleeves ; turn-down collar ; huge reti-
culated head-dress of pink and white muslin, with veil. These
head-dresses met with much ridicule ; the women were compared
by satirists to horned snails, harts, and unicorns ; slit coats
showing the under-dress through the apertures, and the
sideless gowns, were also objects of popular derision.

HENRY V. Period of (1413-1422). In this reign the
horned head-dress assumed enormous proportions, great horns
were added to the cauls, with the veils stretched to their fullest
extent; the waist of dresses became short, and the sleeves
covered the hands.

HENRY VI. Period of (1422-1461). The trains grew
longer, and were tightly girdled ; turn-down collars, of fur or
velvet, came to a point over a distinctive stomacher ; horned
head-dresses still worn ; turbans were carried up in a peak
over the face. The Hennin, from Flanders, was in vogue,
made of muslin with horns, ornamented with precious stones.

HENRY VII. Period of (1485-1509). This period was
illustrated in the Health Exhibition as follows : Maid Ser-
vant, from picture at Obervvesel : Grey cashmere skirt, bound
with w^hite, edged with black ; bodice to waist, cut low in front,
outlined wath a band of white edged with black; white chemisette,
showing close horizontal plaits ; white turban-like head-dress,
black braided star in front. And a costume from the tapestry
at Orleans : Brown under-dress and bodice with the belt and
skirt trimmed with white ; the other robe loose and distinct,
with turnback collar; over-dress brown, and reddish leather
colour ; printed velvet, bordered with a strip of white ; sleeve
in one puff to elbow, and then tight to wrist ; cap like a turban
in the two shades of the dress.

HENRY VIII. Period of (1509-1547). (.S"^^ Catherine
OF Aragon ; Anne of Cleves ; Anne Boleyn ; Catherine
Howard ; Jane Seymour ; Catherine Parr). Lady of

'"¥f<'.^/'-'%^^

HERO

(' .VI IWI

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. II3

the period : Under-skirt and sleeves of a light yellow-green
satin, with an arabesque design in gold thread ; over-skirt,
or kirtle, and bodice of violet velvet, embroidered with gold ;
the kirtle lined with green, like the under-skirt, showing
where the dress is looped up ; ruff of pleated cambric ; head-
dress of violet velvet, encircled with pearls, and ornamented
with a long white plume at the back ; worn over a chaperon
of violet velvet, also edged with pearls.

HERALD OF SPRING. Short full skirt of pale grey
tulle, the lower part scattered with silk appliques of swallows
holding in beak violets or primroses ; round the skirt, scarf of
silver gauze tied behind and fastened on one side with apple-
blossoms ; pointed laced bodice ; pink satin, or pink and silver
brocade, cut low and draped round the neck with silver gauze,
trimmed with cordons of violet, primroses, leaves ; short
sleeves of silver gauze, across which are festoons of violets ;
powdered hair, wreath of apple blossoms on one side ; on
the other a stuffed swallow, in its beak a diamond heart ; wand
in hand, with spring flowers tied with pink ribbon ; chain of
shaded violets round neck ; pale pink shoes and hose ; fan of
pink marabout, swallow in centre.

HERMIONE. White cashmere or long loose red silk
robe, made low and sleeveless, with belt. Over it a cloak of
the same, all trimmed with gold fringes, crossed in front and
draped ; diadem on head, flowing veil ; the whole as statuesque
as possible.

HERN AN I. Cream-coloured low square dress with
train, trimmed with gold braid and Spanish lace, the sleeves
slashed with crimson velvet ; hat of crimson velvet, and
feather. Madame Sarah Bernhardt thus dressed the character.

HERO. {Much Ado About Nothing). Dress of white satin,
the skirt touching the ground, wrought in pearls, with gold
and white ; over-dress of the same, forming a high square to
low bodice ; the stomacher worked in pearls ; there is a wired
ruff starting from the front of bodice widening at the back
tight sleeves, lace rufiies at wrist, and epaulettes puffed and
entwined with pearls on shoulder ; coronet, or band, or coif of
pearls on the head ; the hair hanging in long ends, interplaited
with pearls; pearled shoes. {See Coloured Illustration, No. VI.)

HESTER GRAZEBROOK {She Stoops to Conquer).
Grey cashmere dress with ruffles, fichu, and cap of soft muslin
and fine lace.

114 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

HIBERNIA. Long green classical robe; hair flowing ;
a harp attached to the long peplum, the word Hibernia on the
edge. {See Erin.)

HIGHLAND LASSIE. {See Scotch Costume.)

HINDOO LADY. {See Indian.)

HOARFROST. White crystal tulle dress, the front of
the skirt looped across with beads and crystal over silver
tissue ; veil of the tulle, spray of frosted flowers on one side ;
bodice, silk with silver tissue and crystal ; aigrette of frosted
twigs.

HOLBEIN, STYLE OF. {See Henry VII. and
Henry VIII. , and his several wives.)

HOLLAND. {See Dutch.)

HOLLY. (&^ Winter.)

HORNET. Short black or brown dress of velvet or
satin ; boots to match ; tunic pointed back and front, with
gold stripes; satin bodice of black or brown with gold
gauze wings ; cap of velvet with eyes and antennae of insect.
{See Coloured Illustration, No. VII.)

HORTENSE, QUEEN. Dress of pink satin and
silver embroidery, large bunch of natural violets on left
shoulder ; round the short waist a zone of diamonds ; hair
raised high ; diadem of pearls and diamonds.

HOURS. Long flowing cashmere dress, with loose low
bodice and pendent sleeves ; scarf draped on shoulders ;
round the skirt a band, half blue half gold, with the hours
upon it ; the hair flowing ; a crescent coronet of gold. Veil
of spangled tulle ; gold armlets and necklet ; sandals.

HUBBARD, MOTHER, Mother Bunch, Mother Ship^
ton, Nance Redfern, Dame Irot, Enchantress, Witch {see
Coloured Illustration, XV.), and Fairy Godmother, are all
dressed much alike. Mother Hubbard in a quilted petticoat
touching the ground ; a chintz tunic open in front, bunched
up ; muslin apron; low velvet bodice with deep point, laced
across the front ; sleeves to elbow with ruffles ; muslin kerchief,
close ruff ; spectacles, mittens, and stick ; a lace mob cap, and
a high-pointed velvet sugar-loaf hat with peacock's feather over
it ; high-heeled shoes with rosettes ; a small white dog ; the

YII

THE HORNET

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. II5

hair powdered or not powdered. Or, blue satin petticoat,
cerise moire skirt, and laced body, looped up. Insignias, cat,
or white Pomeranian or other dog, real crook, ebony stick,
tortoiseshell rimmed spectacles, loaf of bread, bottles of
white and red wine, and bone, &c. Highlow shoes, hair
poudre^ with small steeple-crowned hat, lace apron and kerchief,
Or, a print gown ; white apron ; red cloak with hood ; poke
bonnet ; white cap and stick. She is sometimes accompanied
by a boy dressed as a dog in white skin with large tail and
nose. Mere Michel is the French Mother Hubbard. She
wears a flowered chintz gown, white linen apron, checked
handkerchief, while muslin cap, spectacles, blue stockings,
feather broom. Mother Bunch is 2i\\i?iys poudre ; the same
in other respects. Dame Trot wears a pointed hat not so high.
Nance Redfern, Mother Shipton, and the Old Woman who
Swept the Sky {see O), being witches, carry brooms, and on
their skirts are toads, cats, serpents, curlews, frogs, bats, and
lizards in black velvet ; a serpent twisted round the crown of
hat, an owl in front, a black cat on shoulder. Sometimes a
scarlet cloak is attached to the shoulders, and the velvet bodice
is high, with pendent sleeves.

HUGUENOT {after Millais). Black skirt and close-
fitting bodice, with gathered basque of figured velvet, the
sleeves to wrist, with lace cuff slashed with white satin at top ;
close plaited ruff at throat ; hair waved and rolled from the
face ; round velvet cap with row of pearls and white feather.
(Plate VII., Fig. 26.) Or, satin dress, bodice to waist, and
high to throat, the front with silver cloth let in ; ruff ; sleeves
with six puffs to wrist, slashed ; hat of satin, bordered with
silver, and a feather.

HUGUENOT PERIOD. Long plain skirt of velvet ;
low sleeveless bodice of the same, with white lace ; berthe and
white muslin sleeves, coming below the elbow ; a band of
velvet round the head ; the hair dressed in a coil, with curls
depending from it. Or with a high bodice and deep basques ;
tight-fitting sleeves, with a puff at the shoulder, slashed with
satin ; a ruffle of velvet and satin, with a lace ruff inside ;
white lace cuffs. Or, dark blue velveteen ; long plain skirt,
and low sleeveless bodice, almost hidden by white lace berthe,
also low ; sleeves of white muslin, confined below the elbow
by narrow blue velvet run through lace ; hair loosely drawn

Il6 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

back into a smooth knot, from which depend one or two long
curls ; piece of blue velvet round the head, fastened with a
bow at the top. Or, a long dark brown velveteen dress ; high
bodice, with very deep basques all round ; tight fitting sleeves,
with puff at the top, slashed with amber sateen ; ruffle of
brown and amber lace ; white lace turned-down cuff's.

HUMMING-BIRD. Dress of white tulle scattered all
over with feathers and jewels ; the train composed entirely of
feathers, ending in a point like a humming-bird's tail ; four
little wings fastened between the shoulders ; a small bird on
the head.

HUNGARIAN. Short white or red satin skirt, with rows
of gold braid and ermine ; blue or ruby tunic, with ermine ;
low satin bodice, with ermine and bands of velvet ; jacket of
velvet bordered with fur slung from shoulder ; round cap bor-
dered with fur ; high patent leather hunting-boots. Or, some-
times a long pelisse high to the throat replaces the jacket tunic
and low bodice ; a gold and red scarf round hips ; ornaments,
glass beads of different colours ; high boots bordered with fur ;
the hair hanging in plaits, plain in front. Gold and silver
embroidery admissible.

HUNGARIAN LADY'S MILITARY DRESS.

White and gold dress over black Astracan ; short petticoat ;
short cape on left shoulder ; black Astracan and blue busby.
Or, blue under-skirt trimmed with silver bands ; dark green
velvet over-dress, bordered with the same ; sleeves em-
broidered in silver ; blue and silver cord across chest ; mantle
and hat blue, trimmed with fur.

HUNGARIAN PEASANT. White woollen skirt with
rows of green velvet and red satin edged with gold ; low
square red velvet bodice, braided in gold across the front, and
cut in tabs, each ornamented with an Hungarian knot ; a watch
hangs one side ; the Parta (head-dress) is of striped red, white,
and green ribbons, the national colours ; white lace fichu ; red
leather boots. The Hungarian peasant in the Bukowina wears
a curious head-dress of silk, gold braid and feathers, and fur,
fixed to a card-board foundation ; sleeveless leather jacket
with the soft bunda, the hairy surface turned inside forming
a furry edge ; linen sleeves, with Oriental embroidery ; sash,
bright coloured silk, with bright velvet band. Another

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. II7

peasant costume is a head-dress formed of a bright coloured
kerchief shaped Hke a fez ; plaited skirt of dark cloth
trimmed with red and green ribbons ; silk apron of contrasting
colour with bow and streamers ; white under-dress with long
sleeves ; two coloured kerchiefs, one above the other, cover the
head.

HUNTING COSTUME {Louis XIII.) Close fitting
bodice of peau de Suede ; skirt of emerald satin looped with
gold braid ; boots and gloves of grey kid ; grey felt hat ; green
and white feathers.

HUNTING DRESS, OLD COURT. Dress of white
brocaded silk and velvet laced with gold ; point lace cravat
and ruffles ; three-cornered hat of white velvet laced with gold ;
riding-whip with jewelled handle; hair turned back and
powdered, and tied in a queue.

HUNTRESS. Full satin skirt gathered at waist, well-
fitting coat of contrasting satin, with coat tail, and large velvet
hat with diamond aigrette and feathers, the pockets and cuffs of
coat fastened with diamond buttons ; lace tie. Huntress of
the Black Forest. A green velvet dress, quite short, trimmed
with gold fringe ; high boots and gloves edged with fur ; bow
and arrows slung across the back, and hunting-knife in the
girdle ; cap of gold and green velvet. Time of Louis XIV.
Short plain skirt of pink sateen ; waistcoat of white brocade,
square pockets ; mousquetaire coat of blue satin, braided with
silver ; three-cornered hat with feathers ; powdered hair in a
queue ; whip and horn ; dark green trousers meeting the top of
boots; green cloth petticoat with velvet hem ; dark green velvet
coat with old gold satin cuffs and revers ; bag netted with gold
cord ; the high hat has green-feathers.

HURDY-GURDY GIRL. Short petticoat of light blue
satin with band of Havana brown ; tunic of Havana brown ;
loose bodice of white jaconet, open at neck ; full sleeves to
elbow ; braces of black velvet united by three straps across
both back and front ; cap formed of a blue and brown striped
handkerchief; brown shoes; blue stockings; a hurdy-gurdy
slung round neck. Or, white folded head-dress, red bodice,
yellow skirt, imitation sabots, miniature organ, stuffed monkey.

HUSSAR. Short blue velvet skirt and polonaise, and
shoulder cape fastened on the left side with silver cord.

Il8 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

trimmed with sable ; hussar jacket ; blue velvet cap, with a
band of sable and white ostrich feather ; high boots trimmed
with fur ; diamond earrings and brooch. Or, skirt of white
silk and gold lace ; white jacket with gold facings, like an
officer's full-dress uniform ; white military hat and aigrette ;
high boots with gold lace ; military gloves. For Polish
Hussar the Polish hat is worn. (See Polish.)

ICE, ICICLE. A short white satin dress, draped with
crystal fringe, silver tissue or swansdown, and tulle ; em-
broidered silver veil, caught up with narcissus or frosted
mother of pearl flowers ; hair powdered ; silver wreath of
narcissus ; shoes and stockings embroidered with crystal beads.
{See Winter.)

ICE MAIDEN. White gauze dress; pointed tulle cap
and veil fastened with wreath of icicles or ice-flowers spangled
with powdered glass ; long gloves ; bracelets and chains of
icicles ; girdle of falling icicles made of glass.

ICE QUEEN. Soft white satin skirt, trimmed with
frosted gauze, glass fringe and tiny silver bells ; bodice of
crystallised gauze dotted all over with glass beads ; frosted
holly, and robin redbreast nestling on shoulder ; a wreath of
holly and glass beads.

ICELAND, COSTUME OF. Black cap with long
silk tassel on one side, the hair flowing loosely ; black jacket
and skirt with apron of variegated stuff. This is the ordinary
dress. Holiday attire is as follows : — White helmet-shaped
cap, a golden diadem round the temples, wide over the fore-
head, narrow at ears, tied behind with silk bow ; thin white
veil ; black cloth bodice embroidered in gold round the
neck, to the waist ; golden belt with pendants to knee. The
black skirt is embroidered round the hem.

ICELANDIC BRIDE. High black cloth dress, with
long sleeves ; the stomacher embroidered in fine gold-work ;
high white horn-shaped cap, with gold embroidered band ;
lace veil ; large silver belt.

IDA, PRINCESS. [SeeV.) 'Cassock of yellow brocaded
silk, over flowing robe of white plush ; yellow stockings with
white clocks ; academical cap.

IDYLLS OF THE KING. {See Elaine, Enid, &c.)

YIII

INCROYABLE

V I I'. l>

il-. 1.1 /.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. II9

IGNOLA {detta La Bella di Tiziand), (See Venetian.)
IMOGEN. A long robe of soft white silk, made high to
the throat, but without sleeves ; the full bodice girded in at
the waist with a dead-gold band, and from thence the skirt
flows evenly to the feet ; a gold band round the neck, and a
circlet of the same, or a chaplet of pearls, on the hair, which
might be left flowing ; on the right arm one bracelet, a thick
band of beaten gold is best ; shoes of white wash-leather ; no
gloves.

INCROYABLE (1789). Short red, white, and blue
skirt ; blue satin coat with tails lined with red, and revers ; lace
rufiles ; gold buttons ; cravat of old lace ; gendarme hat, with tri-
colour rosette ; black shoes and buckles, blue stockings. Old-
fashioned gold-headed cane ; fob, eyeglass. (Coloured Illus-
tration, Plate VIII.) Or, striped satin skirt, red, white, and
blue ; gold satin tunic, looped up with red roses ; handsome
long-tailed coat of blue satin, lined gold, and large gold
buttons, and bouquet of roses in buttonhole ; high frill
and jabot at throat; chapeau a la claque, trimmed gold and
brocade, tricolour at side ; blue silk stockings, worked in
gold, and patent shoes ; eyeglass, and elaborate jewellery. Or,
long-tailed coat of sky blue velvet, with large pearl buttons,
and a white waistcoat of satin, embroidered with coloured
flowers ; a skirt of grey tulle with long tunic of soft grey silk
looped up gracefully with pale blue satin ribbon ; grey silk
hose embroidered with coloured silk flowers ; dark blue
slippers, very large satin bows ; powdered head tied with a
queue ; cocked hat, wide lace cravat ; cane with gold head,
quaint scissor-shaped eye-glass of the period. This is a very
favourite costume. Sometimes the skirts are hand-painted ;
sometimes there are triple revers to the coat, for which plush
is a good material ; blue with white satin skirt, trimmed with
gold, is a good mixture.

INDIAN DRESSES should come veritably from the
country, and are of great variety. North American Indian Queen
for fancy dress wears a brown satin cuirass bodice and skirt, or
black cloth embroidered with red, yellow, and white, bordered
with cut leather fringe ; sandals ; a diadem of coloured eagles'
and vultures' feathers; bird's wings in front, and a great many
beads for jewellery. {See also Ranee, Nautch Girl.)

INDIAN GIRL, LUTI. (In Mrs. Browning's poem.

I20 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

A Romance of the Ganges.) For a dark girl with smooth black
hair. A close under-dress of dark red or white, showing the
arms and part of the neck, and over this, wound round and
round the figure, a drapery of any closely-clinging, soft, dark
red stuff — Indian muslin or silk are the best ; as many Indian
gold and silver ornaments as can be obtained may be worn ;
in the hand a small Indian lamp and flowers ; hair dressed
with yellow jasmine.

INDIAN QUEEN at a Fancy Ball might wear short
skirt of Indian material intersected with gold ; violet velvet
bodice trimmed with gold ; shoulders covered with Indian
gauze ; full trousers to ankle of soft silk ; Indian scarf round
hips, Indian fan, Indian ornaments ; Oriental shoes, pink
stockings.

INDIAN WOMAN, EAST. Full trousers of thin silk
to ankles ; tunic of printed cotton ; silk scarf draped round
the waist as a petticoat, and round the back over left shoulder
and head, just covered with a white handkerchief, bordered
with band of embroidery ; silver bangles ; necklace of sequins ;
embroidered slippers. The Moosulman women wear the
choice, a sort of short bodice with tight sleeves coming half-
way to elbow, bordered with embroidery ; the Hindoo women
wear it longer.

INFANTA OF SPAIN. Skirt of gold brocade, mixed
with black satin, and white satin creves ; damask train, gold
ground, studded with enormous flowers in red and gold ; the
paniers lined with satin, the trimming of the sleeves likewise
satin; pointed bodice, enormous velvet ruff embroidered in
pearls ; hair crepe, and turned back from forehead with a
pearl coronet at the top.

INSEGTIFUGA. This can be represented by every
variety of insect, dotted over a fashionable black or white
tulle evening dress.

lONE {Last Days of Pompeii). Classically draped robe
of some delicate tone. {See Greek).

lOLANTHE. The dresses in lolanthe are as follows:
The Lord Chancellor, close-fitting black cloth court suit,
breeches, and silk stockings; over this a Lord Chancellor's black
satin brocaded robe, trimmed with gold, with the white wig.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 121

The Peers in the first part wear flowing satin or velvet cloaks,
and a rich under-dress, such as is worn at a coronation, silk
stockings, and coronet caps ; afterwards Earls Mountararat
and ToUoller wear velvet court suits. Private Willis is in the
uniform of the Grenadier Guards. Strephon is a charmingly-
pretty dress of an Arcadian shepherd ; pointed shoes with
bows, silk stockings ; striped breeches with bunches of ribbon at
the knees ; flowered coat and waistcoat ; powdered hair ; three-
cornered hat; playing-pipe in hand, with ribbon streamers. The
Queen of the Fairies has the cap of Mercury, with wings on
either side ; a long cashmere skirt bordered with gold em-
broidery, a gold scaled cuirass bodice, wings at back, golden
hair, a trident in her hand. lolanthe first appears in a dress
all seaweed and grasses, and then in a soft classic white
dress, with sandals, long sleeves, wings at the back ; the bodice
low and clasped on the shoulder, just bound with girdle at the
waist, a diamond band crossing the bust from shoulder to
shoulder ; a wand in the hand. The character is sometimes
dressed at Fancy Balls in white crepe over silver petticoat; with
silver fringe and stars. She has six attendant fairies in antique
Greek dresses made in mauve, laburnum, coral, pink, creme,
and green, soft Liberty silk with silver wings and stars. Phillis,
the Arcadian shepherdess and ward in Chancery, is a most
harmonious combination of blue, pink, and white ; powdered
hair, blue satin hat with roses and ribbons ; long bodice with
paniers ; stomacher, and bows of ribbon in front ; short
striped skirt with lace and ribbons round the edge.

IPHIGENIA. Loose classic dress ; the diploidon pure
white, bordered with Greek honeysuckle ; embroidered veil ;
wreath ; cloak from shoulders ; sandals.

IRELAND. {See Erin.)

IRENE {Rienzi). Square-bodied close-fitting white and
blue dress, under portion blue ; over it a juive robe in white,
embroidered in gold ; diamond crown ; regal mantle of blue
satin embroidered in gold. In last act wears a similar dress
of black velvet and jet.

IRIS. White silk dress with ruches of tulle in rainbow
colours ; grey tulle tunic spangled with rain drops ; head-dress,
coronet with grey tulle veil. {See Rainbow, Arc-en-Ciel.)

122

OR,

IRISH PEASANT. {See Colleen Bawn and Con-
naught Peasant, Arrah-na-Pogue.)

IRISH POTATO-GATHERER. Striped petticoat,
short ; loose flowered chintz jacket tied in at waist, small red
and black shawl on shoulders ; crash apron ; red and yellow
handkerchief on head ; hoe and basket of potatoes.

IRISH QUEEN. Dress of light blue and amber;
petticoat trimmed with gold shamrocks ; scarf of tulle edged
with fringe crossing the front ; bodice low, square, long blue
satin basque, gold-coloured stomacher worked with shamrocks ;
crimson scarf fastened on shoulder with gold harps ; crimson
velvet cap, blue velvet coronet and shamrocks ; massive gold
ornaments.

ISABEL DE CROZE {Quentm Durward). Costume
of Louis XI. period. White satin flowing skirt, tight sleeves,
loose bodice and girdle, all worked in gold fleur-de-lys, bordered
with ermine ; horned head-dress, and veil. {See Henry III.
Period.)

ISABEL OF NAVARRE. Long white satin dress,
embroidered with fleur-de-lys and other heraldic devices ;
bodice and train of ruby velvet, bordered with ermine ;
plastron of white satin, worked in gold ; long sleeves with
ermine ; gold crown and muslin veil.

ISTHMUS OF SUEZ. Short skirt of white satin,
bordered with gold ; green satin embroidered tunic, at the
edge palms and Oriental figures ; low round bodice of cloth
of gold, richly embroidered ; turban of gold and red, with
flowing veil ; blue shoes, red stockings.

ITALIAN PEASANT {Contadind). This is carried out
in most incongruous materials for Fancy Balls. The Roman
Peasant's dress is a short blue skirt, which may be trimmed
with gold, a red upper skirt forming a point on the left side ; a
low white chemisette, the sleeves coming above the wrist ; and
on the lower portion of the arm only, over the white sleeve is
one of red, like a gaiter. Roman lace and embroidery are often
introduced on the top of the chemisette and shoulders ; the
bodice is a low black or red corselet forming points in front,
bordered with gold and laced ; a long apron of bright-coloured
stripes is fastened round the waist, with no gathers, a third of it
turning down outside. The head-dress is usually made of white

IX

TALIAN

/. I I'l i> {' 'i I J /, (;

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 23

linen of oblong shape, the portion resting flat on the head lined
with cardboard 6 inches square, the end plain, or having bands
of lace across it High-heeled shoes ; and coral and blue
beads and gold for ornaments. (Coloured Illustration, Plate
IX.) The Neapolitan Peasant at a Fancy Ball is clad in
lighter colours, such as pink and green, or blue and maize ;
the sleeves to match the corselet, coming often to the wrist ; the
tunic ofAlg^rienne; the head-dress satin or silk. ALombardy
Peasant wears a scarlet and white embroidered petticoat ;
blue bodice, and tunic trimmed with gold ; white kerchief on
shoulders ; blue silk handkerchief on head ; Swiss belt of black
and silver. A Sorrentine Peasant, amber satin skirt,
edged with scarlet, over-skirt of scarlet ; black velvet bodice ;
white silk chemisette ; scarlet silk head-dress, with gold clasps.
Red and blue velvet trimmed with gold lace are favourite
materials for Italian costumes, which should always be of bright
colours. {See Marsetta.)

ITALIAN STATE DRESS (1497). Long skirt of
bright-coloured brocade ; tunic of another tone, opening in
front, and caught together in three festoons of pearl fringe,
tunic bordered with same ; bodice low and long waisted, with
jewelled stomacher; sleeves to wrist, leg of mutton shape;
hair dressed low on cheek, surmounted by crown and veil.

IVY. White tulle evening dress, trimmed with ivy ; basket
of ivy in hand ; ivy wreath.

JACOBIN INNKEEPER'S DAUGHTER. Dress

of soft grey cashmere ; full plain skirt ; short -waisted bodice ;
sleeves demi-long, piece of muslin turned up for cuffs ; muslin
cape ; muslin cap, without lace, bordered with hemmed frills.

JACOBINE, CITOYENNE (1789). White silk skirt,
covered with lace ; pink silk train, with lace and tulle ; the
tunic-bodice with elbow sleeves, trimmed with lace ; French
mob cap with hawthorns and forget-me-nots ; powdered hair
and patches ; ornaments, old French diamonds and pearls.

JACOBITE LADY. Dress of old-fashioned brocade;
short-waisted square bodice ; plain skirt, looped over cream-
coloured petticoat ; cambric kerchief ; mittens ; lace cap.

JAMES II. PERIOD. {See Orleans, Duchesse.)

JANE GREY, LADY. {See Grey.)

JANE SEYMOUR. (1509-1547.) Train of black velvet

I

124 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

embroidered with pearls, over a brocaded silk petticoat showing
in front ; long bodice with girdle and chatelaine of pearls, and
trimmed with Venetian point j coif of velvet with jewelled coronet.

JANE SHORE. (1461-1483.) A fair beautiful woman,
the wife of a baker, the mistress of Edward IV., who died
a pauper in extreme old age. Jewels in the hair ; low bodice ;
dress with girdle round waist ; flowing skirt, looped over satin
petticoat ; dress bordered with ermine ; stomacher revers to
low bodice. (For style, see Edward IV.)

JANUARY. Similar dress to Winter, made of white
satin, short, trimmed with jet and icicle fringe; powdered
hair with cluster of snowballs ; high white satin boots. January
is also represented as a Snowdrop, in white satin skirt, shaped
as a flower, trimmed with tulle and snowdrops, leaves formed
of green satin ; a large snowdrop for cap ; bracelets, earrings,
and fan of same flower.

JAPANESE. The colouring should be bright, and the
dresses trimmed according to the season of year. Loose outer
robe crossed in front, and only fastened by broad soft silk
belt ; wide hanging sleeves, the edge wadded. Two under-
skirts, plain and bright coloured; hair rolled back and fastened
in large bows with flowers and golden pins. {See Mikado.)

JAPANESE (FANCY). Pale blue silk trousers set in
claret velvet bands ; cream china silk tunic embroidered in
colours ; claret velvet bodice with tulle sleeves worked in gold
and silver ; three Japanese fans for head-dress.

JAPANESE LADY. Pale blue skirt, embroidered in
pale yellow ; robe crossing in front, of Japanese crepe with
large flowers ; yellow sash, tied at back ; bright pink crepe
fichu : Japanese head-dress with pins ; fan in hand.

JAPANESE LANTERN. Striped blue and white
short skirt, forming pouf at back ; tunic of old gold satin, bor-
dered with black and gold fall fringe, with large tassels on
the hips ; bodice matching skirt, bertha-like tunic ; hat of blue
and old gold satin formed like a lantern; lantern carried in hand.

JAVOTTE {La Cruche Cassee). Short skirt, dark blue,
with rows of black velvet and orange-coloured ribbon; black
and white striped over-skirt ; yellow apron, with bib and heart-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY i5ALLS. 12^

shaped pockets ; black velvet sleeveless bodice open at neck ;
large hat set at back of head ; blue stockings, black shoes with
orange rosette. The colouring is optional.

JEAN, MISTRESS. Quilted silk petticoat; yellow
satin upper skirt, trimmed with old Irish point ; bunch of keys
and pin-cushion hung at side, and large white satin pocket
embroidered with gold ; powdered wig ; mutch, with red.
ribbons ; blue stockings and shoes. Or, pale blue satin skirt
and low square bodice, trimmed with pearls ; muslin kerchief;,
mob cap with yellow ribbons ; muslin apron trimmed with lace^

JEAN IE DEANS {Heart of Mid-Lothian). Scarlet
tartan short dress ; loose chintz bodice, with basque drawn in
at waist by band ; hair in curls, bound with a snood ; plaid
about the head, hanging down on to the dress. Or, short
blue cotton dress ; belted bodice, much open at the neck ;.
hair bound with blue snood, falling about shoulders.

JEANNE D'ALBRET. Dress of crimson satin made-
ong, trimmed with ermine ; sleeves slashed with white satin :
pendant sleeves ; close-fitting bodice, high, with ruff; cap of
crimson, with pearls and white feather.

JENNY JONES. In Welsh Dress. {See Welsh-
Costumes.)

JESSICA {Merchant of Venice). Long plain stuff or
velvet skirt; large apron; velvet bodice, white slashed sleeves y.
keys hanging at side ; pointed head-dress.

JESTER'S WIFE. Cardinal satin skirt with silver bells ;
pale blue satin over-skirt and cuirass bodice, with red sleeves ;
small satin cap of two colours, with bells, fan, &c., to match.

JEWISH COSTQME. Loose under-dress with hanging
sleeves, over-dress low, opening en cceur^ fastening only on the
shoulders and round the waist with girdle ; veil or turban
about the head ; many beads round neck. Or, sandalled shoes,
short full skirt and sleeveless bodice, bordered with em-
broidery, opening to show full over-dress to throat, made with
long pendent sleeves ; flowing cloak from shoulders, caught
together in front, forming a sort of tunic ; gold coronet on
head ; veil of soft woollen stuff.

JILL {Jack and Jilt). Jack, in a smock frock and round

I 2

126 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

felt hat, is companion to Jill. Jill in flowered cotton bodice
and tunic, over a short petticoat ; small shawl ; poke bonnet,
or Dorothy hat. Both carry pails. Their names are often
embroidered on their pockets. Another rendering : Brown and
yellow striped petticoat ; yellow silk bodice laced over white
chemisette ; brown silk tunic; yellow stockings ; brown shoes ;
straw hat with wreath of poppies and cornflowers. {See Jack.)

JOAN. {See Darby in Appendix.)

JOAN BEAUFORT, WIFE OF JAMES I. OF
SCOTLAND (1357). A sideless gown of gold-coloured plush,
edged with the fur-like brown marabout trimming, with a wide
border of the same round the hem of the trailing skirt. The
under-dress should be a spun silk jersey of a golden-brown tint,
and the fur trimming of the over-dress should be clasped with
golden " owches " down the front. The hair is confined within
a net-like coif of gold wire or thread and pearls ; while a wide
gold kirtle, low on the hips, supports an embroidered pouch
-of brown and gold. The shoes, of brown velvet, are worked
with gold, and made with very long, peaked toes. No gloves,
;but a book, bound in white vellum and clasped and edged
with gold, in the hand. The ruby heart on throat. Period
1357. The costume, as worn at the Queen's Ball, 1842, by the
.'Duchess of Roxburgh, was a skirt of red and blue satin,
embroidered with arms of England, and bordered with ermine ;
cuirass bodice of ermine with jewels down the front ; tight
Ted satin sleeves to wrist ; embroidered blue velvet cloak
■l)ordered with ermine, fastened on shoulders; badge of St.
Andrew on left shoulder ; hair in gold, side nets with crown.

JOAN OF ARC. White plaited cashmere skirt ; a suit
of armour, with helmet and plume, mailed feet, gloves ;
red cloak at shoulder. Or, as she appeared at the coronation
of the French king, skirt and tunic of blue satin, spangled
with fleurs-de-lys ; silver helmet with white plume ; coat of
mail, mail on arms, gauntlets, feet encased in long boots ;
sword with cross on hilt, and shield ; the hair floating on
shoulders. (Plate VII., Fig. 28.) The suit of armour may be of
silver, burnished steel, or what is called scale armour. But
it can also be made by cutting out in strong brown paper the
various pieces required, copied from any illustrated history, or
from Knight's " Shakespeare," pasted over with silvered paper.
Round the edges inside strips of linen should be pasted to
strengthen tnem, so that tapes may be sewn with which to tie

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 127

them on. Leather gauntlets, covered with the same paper, and
plates for the elbow joints of brown and silver paper ; the
helmet made in the same way and wired. The hair should
be rolled under, after the manner formerly called Joan of Arc ;
and a cloak of cashmere to match the skirt should float from
the shoulders.

JOAN OF ARC, AS A VILLAGE GIRL, wears a

skirt and bodice of grey cashmere ; a tunic of blue sateen
bordered with black velvet ; square bodice and short sleeves ;
small muslin cap.

JOAN, JUMPING. Suitable for a Child. Tall and
pointed cap, pink and white stripes carried round; soft
pink silk dress with honeycomb yoke, a skipping-rope round
waist ; sleeves with puff at shoulder, slashed puffs at elbow,
cuffs falling over the hand.

JOCKEY, FANCY. Silver moire skirt, wreath of field-
flowers round hem ; over-skirt green silk^ with cards of races ;
small gold coins hung between ; red satin bodice trimmed
with gold ; head-dress, jockey cap of green and white.

JOCKEY, LADY. Short skirt, bright-coloured satin
over-skirt of contrasting colour, with cards of the races printed
or tacked on it, and bunches of coins between ; bodice to
match ; upper-skirt made as short jacket to waist, buttoning
down the front, sleeves matching under-skirt ; jockey cap of
two colours. The coins and cards may be omitted. Orange and
red, brown and blue, red and green, are good mixtures of colour.

JOCKEY OR TURF COSTUME. Low cuirass
bodice of moss-green velvet, kiltings of mushroom pink surah
in front ; ballet skirt of pink tulle ; high bronze boots with
golden spurs, whip, Szc. ; toque of moss green and mushroom
pink in quarters.

JOCRISSE. Short skirt of dark blue satin, with a gold
wand ; crimson satin jacket with long gilet of yellow, bound
with gold, cut square in front, and having pockets ; elbow
sleeves with Louis XV. cuffs ; the jacket has revers of blue
satin, and a lace ruff; tricorn hat.

JOKETTE. Short skirt of lemon-coloured muslin flounced
to waist ; cuirass bodice of brown velvet laced at the back,
with elbow sleeves, bordered with yellow lace, fastened with
silver horseshoes ; brown velvet boots ; jockey cap of brown
and yellow ; whip in hand.

128 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

JOSEPHINE, EMPRESS. Scanty skirt of white
satin, embroidered round and down the front in double rows ;
very short-waisted bodice with jewelled girdle, puffed sleeves
with low upstanding frills of lace, rounded to top of shoulder ;
tnecklace of pearls ; hair curled ; large jewelled coronet and
•comb. Lady, time of Empress Josephine. Clinging dress,
-short - waisted bodice beneath arm-pits, with short puffed
•sleeves ; full ruche at the edge of the skirt ; hair arranged
-in small curls with rows of pearls intermixed.

JUBILEE. Short white satin dress with front breadth
painted with the word Jubilee and the dates 1837, 1887 ;
powdered hair.

JULIA MANNERING {Guy Mannering). An amber
stuff dress, short-waisted, with puffed sleeves and large hat ;
or in an arriving dress, a sort of princess pelisse with treble
cape made of puce satin, and large hat.

JULIET {Romeo and Juliet). Flowing dress of silk or
satin, with golden girdle, the bodice cut low in front ; pointed
•elbow sleeves caught up inside with gold ornaments, and
• trimmed with gold lace ; gold girdle; pouch at side; pearl and
velvet or satin head-dress ; long veil. Miss Terry wore, first,
-a sleeveless gown of creamy white satin, bordered with blue,
under-sleeves of soft woollen stuff; hair on shoulders ; crowned
with wreath of yellow marguerites. Second dress : Large
brocade, blue and gold, hem bordered with band of cinnamon
brown, embroidered in gold; a square-cut bodice and long
open sleeves ; tight under-sleeves ; dark blue silk dress,
gathered at waist ; blue girdle. Third dress : Woollen under-
-dress made plain and full, gathered at the waist, over it a
ioose white silk gown, open in front, with square sleeves to
'Clbow. Miss Anderson wore a long cloak from shoulder em-
■broidered in pearls ; satin dress with bands of pearls ; puff at
•each shoulder, muslin peeping in at elbow ; satchel bag ; flow-
ing hair, with filet and jewelled band. {See Plate VII., Fig. 27.)

JULY, (6*^^ June and Summer.)

JUNE, Evening dress of rose and white tulle, covered
with roses ; veil depending from wreath of roses.

JUSTICE. Short white satin dress, scales in black
velvet appliqued upon it; black velvet jacket with policeman's
badge on one arm ; a leather belt ; a truncheon in hand, and
policeman's helmet.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS 1 29

JUST 100 YEARS AGO. A favourite name for a
pretty poudre dress. {See Poudre.)

JUTLAND PEASANT GIRL. Green, black, and
red striped petticoat ; large black and green apron with
border ; green velvet bodice, tight sleeves trimmed with band
of embroidery across front to imitate square bodice ; red and
black handkerchief about head, with revers of lace turning up
from ears.

KATHARINA {Taming of the Shrew). Plain satin skirt
touching the ground; low pointed bodice with basque all
round formed of loops of ribbons; a ruff from shoulder widen-
ing at the back, supported by wire, edged with pointed lace ,
the sleeves tight to wrist, with lace cuffs ; puffed epaulette, and
over-sleeves, which button at elbow and hang therefrom in a
straight piece; a velvet head-dress, bordered with pearls of Marie
Stuart form. A satchel bag attached to girdle falls loosely
round hips.

KATHARINE OF ARRAGON. {See C.)

KITTY OLIVE. Dress of blue cashmere ; plain skirt ;
bodice square cut with white stomacher and black velvet bands ;
sleeves turned up at elbow, with square cuffs, full muslin sleeves
beneath ; muslin apron trimmed with lace ; cap of same, with
black velvet bow ; powdered hair.

KITTY, DUCHESS OF QUEENSBERRY. Petti-
coat of rich brocade, trimmed with lace ; black velvet sacquc,
lined and trimmed with crimson satin, velvet, and pearls ;
stomacher of amethysts, rubies, and pearls ; diamond orna-
ments ; hair powdered, with crimson velvet and lace head-
dress.

LA LIBERTE, Classic cashmere dress embroidered in
pearls, pearl girdle ; the red cap of Liberty studded with pearls ;
a white satin banner, embroidered with the word " Liberte,"
carried in the hand. The dress is made with a long skirt,
loose, low, full bodice, pendent sleeves. (For style, see Greek.)

LA VALLIERE, MADAME DE. {See V.)

LACE COLLECTION. Red satin petticoat; up the
front a plastron formed of short lengths of different kinds of
lace, narrower towards the top ; flounce of red satin and a
band of lace round. The black satin paniers bordered with

130 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

short lengths of lace secured by red bows. Round the black
tunic a band of red with tassels of lace upon it. A low black
square bodice with lace scraps carried up the front and on the
sleeves. A black band round the bodice with the names of
old laces worked in gold. A lace lappet round the neck,
lace at the top of the gloves, on the red cap, and on the fan. A
lace pillow with bobbins hung at one side ; also a parchment
with a piece of lace begun on it.

LACE MAKER. This could be represented by a
Dutch Frau, with the lappeted cap and stuff gown. Or, by a
woman of Louis XIV. period, with bunched-up dress ; long
lace edged apron; lace cap; half high bodice cut in points and
elbow sleeves. Or, by a woman of the Louis XIII. period ;
the bodice with long basque cut up into tabs ; full plain
skirt ; sleeves puffed inside the arm with linen revers, edged
with lace on bodice and sleeves.

LACE TRADE. Dress of flounced muslin, each flounce
edged with a different sort of lace ; bodice and paniers of
lace, with bows of lace and ribbon at the back ; elbow sleeves,
composed of rows of lace ; lace cap ; mittens ; fan ; bow of
lace under the chin ; on left side of skirt, lace cushion, with
piece of unfinished lace, bobbins, &c. ; across the shoulders a
white band, with " Lace Trade " in gold letters ; basket
attached, with odds and ends of lace and pricked parchments,

LADIES' BATTLE. Leonie de Villegontier. Short
muslin dress, tucked ; short-waisted bodice with fichu ; wide
striped lavender sash ; necktie of white muslin ; hair curled ;
long mittens tied with ribbons above elbow. As the Countess
d'Altreval, Mrs. Kendal wore a grenat satin made as a train,
with short-waisted Empire bodice, large bow of the same at
back of the waist, tight sleeves to wrist, slashed with figured
silk of a violet-grey tinge, which forms the front of the dress ;
a white tulle fichu fastened in front, with a bunch of flowers
at the side ; muslin Steinkirk tie round neck ; hair curled
and parted at the side, on it a close muslin cap.

LADYBIRD. Suitable for a child. Skirt of grey tulle,
in three thicknesses. Low square grey velvet bodice, the
sleeves of grey tulle, with red silk wings for epaulettes. The
tunic in the form of two wings of red silk, with black velvet
spots. Tiny wings as a coronet, white stockings, black shoes-,
red rosettes and red sash.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I3I

LADY BURLEIGH. White satin under-skirt trimmed
with old lace, caught up with loops of pearls on wire in large
festoons ; tunic of large patterned brocade with pearls and
cardinal ribbon ; pointed bodice cut low ; powdered hair ;
pearl ornaments. Or, short-flowered skirt, simple striped
over-dress opening in front, gathered on to pointed square-
cut bodice ; muslin fichu inside, sleeves to wrist with frills ;
high muslin cap, the shape called Olivia.

LADY COQUETTE. {See Coquette.)

LADY HELP. XlXth century. (.S<?^ Help.)

LADY JANE {Patience). Long close-fitting Japanese
robe of dark blue silk embroidered in gold, with design of
peacock's tail and scrolls ; light blue scarf at the back.

LADY OF THE LAKE {Sir Walter Scott). White
muslin dress flounced to waist ; low black velvet bodice, with
white stomacher, laced with silver ; tartan scarf of satin fastened
with Scotch brooch on shoulder; hair in curls; light blue
snood. Or, skirts and bodice of silver tissue trimmed with
water lilies and any water plant.

LADY OF THE LAST CENTURY. {See PoudrI)

LAHORE, REINE DE. Train of white satin, draped
with red India cashmere, richly embroidered in gold ; head-
dress, a jewelled coronet, tulle veil with gold tassels. {See
Indian.)

LAITIERE DE BAGNOLET. {See Louis XIV.)

LAKME {Delibes' Opera.) An Indian dress; pointed
jewelled cap with fringe of beads; many beads round the
neck. Long soft falling white dress bordered with gold ; over
it a species of Senorita jacket with short sleeves all jewelled ;
gold cloak ; a scarf of many coloured Indian cashmere
crossing left shoulder, under right arm ; a jewel on the
shoulder ; bracelets like serpent.

LALLA ROOKH. A rich Oriental dress. Petticoat and
trousers full to ankles, of gold tissue over pink ; green satin
over-dress long; a skirted paletot with over-sleeves trimmed
with gold ; the front of bodice pink, embroidered in gold, silver,
and jewels ; pink under-sleeves. Green satin cap with heron's
plume like a fez ; gold-spangled veil ; green^ satin boots ; the
hair in two plaits entwined with pearls ; strings of jewellery
round the neck ; pointed sandals for shoes. Or, full white

132 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

silk trousers and vest ; bodice of chartreuse satin bordered with
gold; petticoat of silver tissue with border of gold jewelled
embroidery ; girded closely round the hips by scarves of pale
orange and heliotrope silk, finished off with tassels of pearls ;
jewelled cap, an aigrette on one side, fastened by a jewelled
clasp ; fringe of pearls and emeralds round the neck.

LAMBALLE, PRINCESSE T^K {As worn at Marl-
borough House). Pale blue satin over-skirt fastened to white
satin petticoat with a bouquet of roses, the front breadth
sprinkled with shaded roses. The bodice comes to the waist
only ; a low, double, lace-edged pelerine drapes the shoulders ;
the sleeves are of a bell shape ; the hair turned over a large
cushion and powdered ; wreath of roses on one side, with
pearls, ribbons, and veil at the back, falling over curls. Rich
velvet, satin, lace, and jewels are suitable.

LANGE Mdlle. {Madame Angot). An Oriental
striped-dress with coins ; afterwards a long beflounced cream-
coloured silk with low bodice and sleeves ; and in the duet
scene a black and red-striped petticoat, a large blue serge
apron and velvet bodice, and a huge cap.

LASS OF RICHMOND HILL (1760). Blue and
striped satin skirt ; bodice and paniers of white brocade ;
powdered hair; hat with streamers. For style, see George III.

LAURA {Petrarch's). Long white flowing robe, em-
broidered in silver; bodice cut low, edged with gold braid,
two rows round neck, one round arm-hole and elbow sleeve ;
beneath this a red and white under-sleeve, fitting to wrist ;
hair in coil ; black shoes, pointed toes.

LAUREL ROSE. Pink nun's cloth bordered with the
Greek key pattern in silver, made as a full skirt ; and low bodice
with peplum basque, a silver tassel at the corners ; cloak of
green satin arranged to form a bertha to the top of dress, fas-
tened with jewelled clasp ; straw hat, high, with bands of
ribbons round the crown ; white and red oleander blossoms
in front, silver crook with pink ribbons.

LAVENDER, FRESH. {From C. E. Ferugini's
picture). Suitable to fair, slight girl ; a simple coloured cotton
dress, with elbow sleeves ; mob cap ; tray of lavender carried
in the hand.

LAWN TENNIS AND BADMINTON. Some-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 33

times for these only an ordinary lawn tennis dress and pouch
are worn, with a bat attached to the side. A better represen-
tation is a green satin skirt, a bat fastening a silver net,
forming paniers, pouches and balls on the shoulders, which
drape the skirt ; scarf across bodice, with lawn tennis in silver
letters; black bodice with white circles to resemble balls ; high
pointed black hat with a bat as an aigrette ; brown stockings
and shoes. Or, a short plain skirt of grass green satin,
gathered at back, trimmed round the edge with two rows of
grass fringe, headed by a flat band of white satin an inch and
a half in width, to represent the boundary of court ; six lines
of the same round the skirt at intervals ; a tennis net draped
from waist, edged with scarlet and white worsted balls ;
miniature tennis bats hold up the drapery ; bodice of green
velvet, long sleeves to wrist, all bordered with gold braid and
scarlet and white balls ; epaulettes of scarlet and white satin
ribbon ; red and white satin peaked cap, with daisies and
leaves beneath the flap ; Suede gloves, and black shoes ; scarlet
stockings ; ornaments, gold tennis bats ; fan like a bat, in red.

LECZINSKI, MARIE. Pale pink robe of state, the train
scalloped round and richly trimmed with lace ; fine diamond
crown, and diamond ornaments ; snuff-box carried in hand.

LEMONS. {See Oranges and Lemons.)

LEONIE DE LA VILLEGONTIER. {See Ladies'
Battle.)

LEONORA (// Trovatore). Satin skirt, with tunic caught
up on one side ; long low black velvet bodice, with puffings of
muslin round top ; the long all-round basque, cut in tabs ;
elbow sleeves, with treble row of lace ; ribbon bandeau in hair.

LIBERTY. Short red, white, and blue striped satin skirt,
made plain, with perpendicular stripes ; low red satin bodice,
with coat-tails ; plain muslin fichu, tucked inside, lace frill and
cravat in front ; cap of Liberty, tri-colour at one side ; leather
belt ; dagger stuck in sleeves to elbow and rolled.

LIGHT OF HAREEM. (.9^^ Oriental Costume and
Lalla Rookh.)

LILAC. Mauve satin dress with a front embroidered with
lilac on crepe lisse ; bunches of the flower on dress and head.
A fashionable evening gown of tulle, white and mauve, is also
suitable.

134 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

LILY. Yellow shoes and stockings ; the short white satin
skirt cut in Vandykes ; green bodice ; cap like an inverted
bell with green stalk ; a full plain skirt of white moire, draped
at the back with large sash of the same ; tablier of gold satin,
covered with pearls and crystals ; square-cut bodice, with high
pearl collar, lined with gold satin ; and a large soft white hat,
trimmed with lilies and ostrich feathers.

LILY {Arum). A white satin gown draped with tulle;
large white velvet arum leaves falling on the skirt from the
waist ; an upstanding ruff to low bodice formed of the same ;
arum fan ; powdered hair.

LILY OF LEOVILLE. White cambric head-dress,
goffered all round, and trimmed with falling ends at either side
of gold silk ; brown velvet bodice opening a la Breton over
white chemisette, trimmed with gold braid and beads ; Swiss
belt of brocade ; lace collarette and elbow sleeves ; blue satin
skirt with bands of brown plush ; very large apron of light blue
silk bordered with insertion ; gold cross round neck.

LITTLE BUTTERCUP. {See Pinafore.)

LIZARD BIRD. Yellow satin skirt, bodice of green
jet ; lizard birds on the head, and perched on the shoulders.
LOMBARDY PEASANT. {See Italian.)
LORELEI. Dress of watered silk, shot with silver, draped
with green, and caught up with water lilies, coral, and
diamonds ; veil to match ; sometimes soft muslin is draped in
classic fashion ; the hair flowing ; a coronet of silver on the
head ; an old fashioned lyre carried in the hand. {See Water-
Nymph.)

LORN, MAID OF. White muslin dress, with scarf of
tartan of the clan. Lady Elizabeth Campbell appeared thus
in the character at the famous Waverley Ball at Willis's Rooms.

LORRAINE PEASANT. Mob cap of fine muslin, a
cockade in front ; brown dress ; bodice opening in front ;
white muslin fichu ; lace ruffles.

LOUIS XIII. {temp. 1610-1643). A petticoat of satin
or brocade, an over-dress either fastened down at the side
or loose and flowing; the bodice cut in one with the skirt
or pointed ; gauze sleeves, puffed from shoulder to wrist, and
pendent ones over, lined with a contrasting colour ; the bodice

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 35

high at the back, and square in front, with either a falling collar
of lace, or a ruff supported on wire ; the hair is not powdered.
The following is a good rendering : Grey silk skirt, with
flounces ; cardinal tunic, trimmed with white lace, and caught
up at side ; round bodice of grey silk ; stomacher of gold ;
tight sleeves, with epaulettes ; grey paniers and rich cardinal
sash ; muslin and lace fichu, and boa round the throat, the
ends fastened at back ; large white hat, trimmed with cardinal
satin and three white ostrich feathers, the whole costume
trimmed with gold.

LOUIS XIV. (1643-17 15). In this reign ladies wore
the hair powdered over high cushions ; hoops were in fashion,
and sacques ; also patches, and very long gloves. The
following is the usual style for fancy balls : Satin petticoat, plain
or quilted with pearls, or with rows of lace across headed by
tulle puffings and roses ; a velvet, brocade, or satin train
rounded in front, coming from the waist or en sacque {see
Watteau), trimmed with lace, headed by ruchings and pearls,
carried up the sides, and bodice which should be cut as a
low square ; the stomacher pointed, with rows of ribbon
across, a bow in the centre ; the sleeves to the elbow,
with ruffles ; pearls and flowers on the powdered hair.
A lady's hunting dress of this reign is made with a plain
skirt, a very deep satin waistcoat with square pockets, and a
longer basqued jacket with mousquetaire cufls and ruffles; a
lace tie and frill at the throat and a three-cornered hat over
powdered hair. Laitiere de Bagnolet. Blue short skirt
embroidered round the edge ; yellow bunched-up upper skirt ;
red pointed, low, square-cut bodice, bordered with gold, over
white under-bodice ; sleeves with turn-back cuff at wrist ; white
cap with a red and yellow handkerchief tied over it. Mar-
quise. A red plush coat, with silver buttons and braid,
showing a vest of cream satin ; a cream satin dress ; a cloak of
red plush, lined with cream satin, fastened to the shoulders
with silver cord and tassels ; three-cornered hat of red plush,
with cream feathers and silver cord on the powdered hair ;
riding gloves with gauntlets, and a riding whip. Peasant.
Short cream dress of cashmere, embroidered with roses ;
moss green apron, and white fichu crossed on the bust. {See
also Plate XIV., Fig. 56.)

LOUIS XV. (17 15-1774). A similar dress to that
described in Louis XIV. 's time is worn. The following are

136 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED j OR,

pretty costumes of the period : A Marquise. Pink silk
skirt bordered with a lace flounce, caught up in Vandykes,
with pink roses and silver tassels ; long upper-skirt of silver
gauze, with strips of pink satin ribbon, and silver tassels and
roses, keeping it in its place; low stiff bodice with gilet of silver
cloth; powdered hair; blue silk skirt with lace flounces, headed
by bands of pink silk laid on in double gatherings ; pointed
stomacher of the same, with pink bands and bows across;
skirt and bodice of pink silk, bordered with the same plaiting in
blue, elbow-sleeves and ruffles ; powdered hair. Or, dress of
embossed velvet broche with bouquets of roses on a ground
of oyster-grey satin, the hips padded as worn at that period.
The front of the skirt vieux rose silk with flounces of antique
point de gaze ; bouquets of variegated roses to match the broche
loop up the drapery ; bodice of the broche trimmed with the
lace ; the hair powdered ; patches. A young girl might wear
a muslin dress with silk sacque, train and bodice. ^Waiting
Maid. Short silk skirt, two flounces gathered at edge; square
bodice, and bunched-up tunic in contrast; bibbed apron;
powdered hair. Peasant Girl. Linen striped skirt, blue, red,
and white; red tunic caught together, high at the back; square,
sleeveless, blue cashmere bodice with velvet bows and trim-
mings ; loo?e linen under-sleeves, flat muslin cap, black velvet
bracelets, and band round neck. Flower-Girl. Pink and
blue costume, covered with garlands of small roses, draping
the Pompadour skirt ; pink tunic, ruched with pink satin ;
bodice to match ; white muslin apron with pockets, trimmed
with pink and blue ruches ; large flat basket suspended from a
garland of flowers passed round the neck and filled with real
flowers ; hair powdered ; white muslin cap ; at the side tufts
of roses and loops of blue ribbon. [See Bourgeoise.)

LOUIS XVI. (i 774-1 789). See Lamballe, Princesse
DE ; Marie Antoinette ; Elizabeth, Madame. {See also
PouDRE Costumes, and Shepherdess.) The bodices are gene-
rally low. The following illustrate the style. White silk long
skirt, and jacket of striped gold and red silk, long sleeves
and low neck, finished off with a cambric fichu, showing
the neck, a rose in front ; the jacket is cut away in
front, has gold buttons, and displays a full white under-
bodice with straps of red across. The hair is powdered, and
a small toque of r-ed silk bordered with the stripe, a diamond
aigrette and bunch of flowers worn on one side. Long skirt

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I37

and jacket of canary silk; deep flounced basque at back
bordered with a ruche of the same. The jacket in this opens
heart-shape, a musUn fichu inside, elbow-sleeves ; hair pow-
dered; white silk cap trimmed with black and canary. White

silk front breadth and low bodice trimmed with rows of gold
braid ; long skirt and low bodice of blue silk, falling collar of
lace, long sleeves, a puff from the elbow with turn-back cuffs of
lace, and also trimmed with gold braid ; hair not powdered.
A curious costume, d'aprh Debucoure, 1787, is as follows :
Light blue under-skirt with a flounce round the edge, blue train
bordered with gold, red bodice terminating at waist with gold
belt, large blue revers at neck ; white tie and chemisette ; tight
sleeves to wrist, blue cuff's ; enormous yellow hat with floral
wreath over powdered hair ; stick in hand. Another rendering :
White satin petticoat; skirts of white lace, pink and blue
satin ; powdered hair, and feathers ; diamond star, turquoise
and diamond ornaments. Very large hats were worn at this
period.

LOVE. — White satin dress with low cuirass bodice, out-
lined with red velvet, displaying white hearts ; red velvet
hearts appearing on the skirt ; wings at the back ; coronet
head-dress with red heart ; the skirt is caught up with an arrow
and quiver.

LOVE BIRDS. The skirt a series of scolloped green
silk flounces, with birds' plumage, tail for tunic ; the cap made
to resemble the head and beak ; the veritable birds perched
on right shoulder of bodice formed of green feathers.

LUCAS (1785). Short stufl" skirt pinked out at the edge';
large pink apron ; the bodice striped and laced in front ; linen
kerchief ; ruffles at elbow ; large hat with pink ribbons.

LUCENA, QUEEN OF THE MOON. Pale blue silk
skirt ; small tunic of fire-coloured gauze ; velvet bodice sur-
rounded by galon and gold stars ; diadem on head ; a band
with moon and signs of zodiac carried in the hand.

LUCY {The Rivals). High-heeled shoes, with plain
buckles ; stockings, with silk clocks ; quilted satin under-skirt ;
bodice, and bunched up over-skirt ; lace tucker round bodice ;
small mob cap. Colours to be chosen to suit wearer, not
pronond. Black lace apron.

LUNA. {See Moon and Lucena).

138 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

LUPI, THE INDIAN GIRL. (See Indian.)

LURLINE. Dress of frosted or silver spangled tulle,
over white or green, caught up with crystal and aquatic plants,
such as water-lilies and grasses ; a veil of tulle to match dress
hangs over the floating hair, which should be covered with
frosting powder ; bodice of silver tissue ; diamond ornaments.
(See Water Nymph.)

LUTIN. Short white muslin skirt with two flounces ;
satin tunic, caught up at side by bands of black velvet;
corselet bodice of black satin, embroidered with gold, double
braces of the same, worn over muslin ; under bodice open at
neck, with elbow-sleeves ; cap and mittens.

LUXURY. A black or white evening dress covered with
fruit, flowers, shells, seaweed, gems, birds, &c. Head-dress of
fruit, necklace of cherries.

LYDIA LANGUISH. Dress of white India muslin,
trimmed with lace ; sash and breast bows of dark violet ribbon ;
hair in curls, pearls round neck. Or, as in last scene, a silk
hood, black silk scarf, long gloves. Or, handsome red and
white brocaded silk dress, looped up over a white satin petti-
coat ; hair powdered.

LYONS, LADY OF. (See Pauline, and Melnotte,
Widow.)

MABEL (-Ro^ J^<^y)' Plain skirted dress, of soft wool ;
bibbed apron ; fur edged hood.

MACBETH, LADY. First dress : A long velvet robe,
with a narrow velvet tunic fastening down the front, with brode-
quins ; low bodice, showing white chemisette slightly at the
neck ; plaid scarf flowing loosely ; short sleeves ; massive brace-
lets ; long hair ; a velvet cap secured by a broad ribbon passing
under the chin. Second dress : White satin trimmed with
silver; scarlet mantle with ermine ; silver coronet surmounted
by cross. Third dress : White wrapper trimmed with lace.
Witches. Short skirt with frogs and toads appliqued in black
velvet on quilted satin skirt, chintz tunics; black velvet
bodices laced in front ; ruffles at elbow ; cats and owls on
shoulder ; short cloaks with square collar at back ; high black
velvet hats, entwined with serpents.

MACGREGOR, HELEN. (5^^ Helen.)

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 39

MACINTYRE, MISS {The Antiquary). Crimson
velvet bodice, flowered petticoat and sleeves ; dress turned up
d, la laveuse ; broad Brussels point collar ; crimson stockings,
with white clocks ; black shoes, with crimson heels and bows,
diamond buckles.

MACONAISE {Peasant of Bourg-eti-Brise). Brown cash-
mere dress, with blue silk bibbed apron ; low bodice, with
shawl and elbow-sleeves ; large black hat, round, made on net,
with a huge knob in centre, trimmed with gold cord, tassQl
and net streamers; black stockings and shoes. Or, short
striped red woollen petticoat ; red corselet bodice ; muslin
chemisette ; small red cape slung round shoulders ; round flat
cap with an upstanding tail like a rat's.

MADALENE {On the Eve of St. Agnes). Skirt of white
satin, bodice blue velvet with pendent mushn sleeves; a
white chemisette, trimmed with bands of blue velvet and
pearls ; a blue girdle and aumoniere bag at the side ; the hair
hanging about the shoulders ; and a chaplet of pearls.

MADAME DE MAINTENON. (1643-1679.) Black
velvet skirt, open in front, showing under-petticoat of brocade,,
trimmed with lace or plain satin, richly embroidered ; the:
bodice should be low, cut high on shoulders, pointed in front,,
sleeves to elbow, with ruffles ; gloves without buttons ; high-
heeled shoes, pointed toes and diamond buckles ; missal!
hanging at side ; hair in flat curls, and head-dress of many
jewels ; veil floating at back.

MADAME LE DIABLE. Blue sandalled shoes;:
short pink petticoat, bordered with band of blue, with small
black imps in applique ; low bodice over white chemisette ;
white full sleeves to elbow ; square Italian head-dress of pink
and gold fastened with pins in the form of horns. {See

DiABLOTINE.)

MADEIRA PEASANT. Short striped red, blue, and

white skirt; red stay bodice embroidered all over ; a linen

chemisette with turn-down open collar at the throat ; white
cap.

MAD ELI N A {Rigoletto). A short Spanish costume ; red
satin skirt, with gold braid and fringe ; blue upper skirt ; black
Spanish jacket, laced across front, over white loose bodice,

K

1:40 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

which forms a puff at the waist ; long sleeves slashed inside
the arm showing white muslin through ; gold betrimmed epau-
lettes ; gold net, with sequins.

MADELINE (in Belphegor, Scene 3rd). Short crimson
cashmere skirt trimmed with black velvet, tucked up over a
petticoat of pale blue cashmere ; crimson vest, with bodice of
black velvet strapped over it ; small white apron, with pockets
and scarlet bows ; French cap, period of Louis XVIII. ; shoes
same period ; antique French cross, fastened round the neck
with black velvet ; earrings to match.

M ADO LI NAT A {From Wagner's PicUire). Front gold
brocade ; over-dress velvet bordered with gold ; bodice low,
square jewelled stomacher; high stiff ruff standing up at
shoulder ; full puffed sleeves to wrist ; hair curled on fore-
head ; rolled above and entwined with pearls.

MAGDALEN MAGPIE. Miniature boating hat
with black and white streamers on powdered hair. Black
silk jersey, scarf, sash, and satin kilted skirt striped white and
black, and pompons of the same colour. Black stockings
with white rosettes on the shoes. Shield of Magdalen College,
Oxford, fastened to bodice. La Pie Voleuse has a magpie
on the shoulder with a diamond ring in its mouth.

MAGPIE. Half black, half white dress ; hair powdered
on one side and not on the other ; one glove and one shoe
black, one white ; short satin skirt, with gauze tunic bordered
with fringe ; basque bodice ; gauze fichu ; satin ribbon tied in a
bow at the throat ; gauze cap. All half black and half white,
so that the wearer seems on one side all black, on the other all
white. A magpie on the right shoulder. (For an original
rendering, see Coloured Plate X.) The front of skirt is
striped black and white satin plaited ; the bodice cut in one
with long side revers of black, lined and turned back with
white ruching to the hem of skirt, opening down back to
show full plaited skirt. The black bodice bordered with
white ; low striped vest ; magpie on the shoulder and in hair,
which may be powdered or not, or half powdered.

MAHOMEDAN LADY. Loose trousers of striped
silk, tunic of gold-spangled muslin; bodice and sleeves of
crimson satin striped with gold ; pendent sleeves hanging in
front of crimson gauze ; bangles round ankles and arms ;

X

MAGPIE

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I4I

pointed shoes ; many beads round neck ; pointed head-dress
of gold and beads.

MAID MARIAN. A brown satin short skirt, bordered
with dark fur ; a peHsse of Lincoln green velvet, the skirt gathered
to the bodice, with revers of red satin, and red and brown on
the cuffs ; the sleeves long, bordered with fur, light brown satin
ones beneath ; leather band and knife round the waist, with
quiver at back; round velvet cap bordered with fur. This
costume looks well in green satin and black velvet. Pelisse
with green revers, the green carried down front ; green cuffs and
sleeves ; the velvet cap with a piece turning up in battlements.
A horn is carried at the side ; boots bound with fur ; hair in
plaits.

MAID, MY PRETTY. (" My face is my fortune, sir, she
said.") Plain yellow satin skirt, antique over-dress of cream
print, pattern wild flowers ; sacque back ; bodice square in
front ; bibbed muslin apron ; mob cap trimmed with yellow ;
black silk stockings and satin shoes.

MAID OF ATHENS in Greek Dress. {See Greek
and Athens, and Plate XIII.. Fig 51.) Trousers, short jacket;
full skirt and under-bodice ; girdle round waist ; cap and
veil.

MAID OF HONOUR TO QUEEN MARY OF
ENGLAND. Black velvet skirt with lace down side, quilted
satin front ; square low bodice of black velvet, pointed in front,
laced at back ; epaulettes trimmed with pearls ; puff of velvet ;
tight sleeves between arm and wrist, puff of white to wrist,
frill of white inside ; ruche round neck ; black velvet pointed
head-dress edged pearl.

MAID OF LISMORE. Long plain skirt of satin;
half-high bodice, front fastened with pearls ; sleeves full to
wrist, with turned back cuff of lace ; Tudor head-dress of velvet
and pearls.

MAID OF OLDEN TIMEl. White satin petticoat,
quilted with pearls ; paniers and bodice of brocade ; crimson
roses ; old lace and pearls ; powdered hair.

MAID OF SARAGOSSA. Short blue woollen skirt
trimmed with red ; upper-skirt of red, drawn through the
placket-hole at the back ; a low bodice, made stiff and firm,

K 2

142 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

lacing across the front, displaying a low white linen under-
dress ; the hair drawn from the face, and gathered in a knot
at the back, a dagger thrust through it, and a red handkerchief
wound about the head.

MAID OF THE MILL. Short dress of white
muslin or silk ; muslin apron ; bag of flour at side ; cap
with windmill.

MAID, SERVING. Black velvet corselet bodice
over white chemisette ; long sleeves let in a band; high ruff;
red skirt ; white lace-edged linen apron ; muslin cap.

MAID WAS IN THE GARDEN, THE. Short
scarlet petticoat, with flowered polonaise ; muslin fichu ; cap,
and mittens ; clothes-pins hung on cord round waist, basket
with clothes in hand, and blackbird on the shoulder.

MAIDEN ALL FORLORN. Pretty figured cotton
dress ; the petticoat of pink and white striped print ; jacket
of blue and white print tied round waist ; sleeves rolled
to elbow ; white apron all in holes pinned to left side with
gold-headed pin ; white sun bonnet ; brown stockings and
shoes ; milking stool under one arm, milk pail on other ;
hair dishevelled.

MAIDENS, LOVE-SICK {Patience). Loose flowing
skirt ; half high classic bodice, with ribbon belt round the
waist, tied in a looped bow in front and forming braces at the
back ; the long drooping sleeves fasten with three buttons on
the outside of the shoulders, and spring from the fulness of
the dress at the back. The best colourings are, dark blue
serge and sunflowers, white with dafl"odils, sickly green and
passion-flowers, terra-cotta with gold, light blue and claret.
Lyre in hand ; fillet round head.

MAIDS, THREE LITTLE. {See Mikado.)

MALAPROP, MRS. {School for Scandal). Brocaded
sacque, caught back with bows, over quilted petticoat ;
peaked stomacher, laced with ribbons ; hair rolled over
cushion ; lace cap ; black mittens ; black velvet round neck
and wrist ; high-heeled shoes ; muslin kerchief, tucked into
bodice ; old-fashioned fan.

MALTESE FALDETTE. Black silk dress, touching
the ground, and a black silk head-dress made like an apron,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 43

with a piece of whalebone, half a yard long, sewn into one
side ; the gathered part comes a little in front of left cheek,
and the whalebone forms an arch over the face.

MANETTE, LUCY (Tale of Two Cities). White muslin
dress, with square bodice, single flounce on skirt; wide blue sash;
hair drawn up over cushion and curled, a la Gainsborough.

MANOLA. Dress of amber and blue satin trimmed
with sequins and gold braid ; dark blue senorita jacket and
satin cap. Or, large felt hat, trimmed with red ; grey silk
skirt trimmed with scarlet ; amber merino over-skirt em-
broidered ; bodice red, trimmed with grey silk, black beads, and
iace ; overskirt gold trimmed with gold silk fringe.

MARABALL {See Lalla Rookh). Rich Eastern dress.

MARCH, A tulle dress trimmed with primroses and
violets, with a weather-cock in the hair.

MARCHANDE DE BALAIS. {See Buy-a-Broom.)

MARC HAN DE, LA. Yellow and red short skirt,
striped ; white bibbed apron and chemisette and sleeves, with
pink corselet bodice and Normandy cap.

MARGARET, LADY {Lay of the Last Minstrel). White
satin dress, embroidered with jewels, veil at back, wimple of
clear muslin reaching to elbow ; a knot of plaid ribbons
fastened on the left side ; wreath of white roses round head.

MARGARET OF ANJOU, 1422-1461 {Wife oj
Henry VI.). Hair hidden by curious head-dress of the
period, or gold coronet and gauze veil; shoes broad over
instep, and pointed and embroidered; blue velvet square
bodice, filled in with lisse, quilted with gold; front breadth
gold brocade ; jewelled girdle.

MARGERY DAW. Grass green dress, made with
plain short skirt ; low bodice, large, short puffed sleeves ; round
cape, with mittens to elbow.

MARGERY, MISTRESS. Petticoat of rose-coloured
silk; rose-coloured train lined with pink; bodice to corre-
spond ; fichu of lace ; hair powdered ; lace cap.

MARGUERITE {Faust). Short skirt of cashmere, bor-
dered with rows of black or contrasting velvet ; long skirt over

144 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

this, trimmed in same way, and caught up by means of a
satchel or pocket, and girdle on left side. The skirt is sewn
to a long close cuirass bodice made of the same cashmere,
coming well on to the hips, where it is trimmed with bands of
velvet or tabs of velvet. It is cut square at the neck, over a
linen chemisette ; the sleeves are made with horizontal puffs
to the elbow, where a close-fitting portion of the sleeve meets
them, and falls a little over the hand. The hair is worn in
two long plaits. Grey cashmere with black velvet ; white with
blue can be used. Miss Terry wore full white chemisette to
throat, hanging sleeves, and bodice of brownish velvet, front of
dress a lighter shade, train at back ; close cap ; satchel pocket
attached at side. (See Plate VIII., Fig. 31.) Or Marguerite
may wear a dress of cream cashmere or flannel made all in
one, closely fitting, and the bodice fastened at the back ; the
skirt should be looped up with a baldric belt and pouch, so as
to show an under-skirt of warm brown-red stuff, the sleeves
being slashed with the same ; the bodice is square cut, and
filled in with a chemisette, and with a close small ruff at the
throat ; pointed brown shoes ; small coif, the same colour as
skirt.

MARGUERITE DE VALOIS {Married, 1572, to
Henry of Navarre, subsequently Henry IV. of France). Long
skirt of satin or velvet, of contrasting colour to petticoat, which
is trimmed with bands of gold at the hem ; a jewelled girdle
encircles waist and falls down centre of skirt ; square bodice,
trimmed to match, with a high ruff on wire from the shoulders ;
the hair turned off the face in double roll, not powdered ; a
jewelled crown ; the sleeves in longitudinal puffs to the wrist,
with bands of gold between ; lace cuffs ; feather fan ; pointed
satin shoes. (6"^^ Coloured Illustration I. — Frontispiece.) Or,
red velvet bodice and train embroidered with gold ; vest and skirt
of yellow satin, front of red and gold embroidery ; sleeves
puffed and striped with gold ; crown of red velvet and jewels.

MARGUERITE, LA. (^-^^^ Flowers.)

MARIA (School for Scandal). White muslin frock
with sash ; in last act ivory satin cape and pelisse trimmed
with white-fox; a white beaver Gainsborough hat, ostrich
plumes.

MARIANA (Measure for Measure), Plain flowing tulle
skirt ; velvet bodice, open, heart shape, with low chemisette ;

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 45

sleeves to wrist, with puff at elbow ; fur round neck of bodice ;
hair in coif of gold and pearls.

MARIE {Cinq Mars). Under-skirt of yellow satin^
brocaded in gold ; over-skirt of blue velvet, embroidered in
gold ; gold waistbelt ; hat and feathers ; bodice low, with
Medici collar; short upper sleeves, under sleeves slashed
with white.

MARIE ANTOINETTE. Pale rose brocaded
sacque over petticoat trimmed with bronze and lace ; large
hood ; high powdered wig, plumes of pink feathers ; red
velvet round neck and wrist. In her prison days (after
Paul Delaroche), she wears a plain, long-skirted, short-waisted
black silk dress, the sleeves short and turned up with a band
of muslin ; a long muslin scarf fichu over the neck, the
ends falling in front of the skirt ; the hair white, and tied with
a black ribbon at the back, turned off the face in front ; na
ornaments ; a black bow and band of velvet round the neck.
{See Plate VIII., Fig. 32.) In the famous picture at the
Trianon (the costume worn by the Countess of Wilton at
Marlborough House) the dress is three skirts over a large hoop ;.
the first, blue brocade, embroidered in silver; the second,
white, embroidered with gold ; and the third, pink satin, caught
up with white satin bows and silver tassels ; the bodice low ;
the pointed stomacher a mass of diamonds ; a pink satin train
from the left shoulder, embroidered with fieurs-de-Hs and
silver fringe and lace ; the hair powdered, and a large blue-
velvet cap with feathers and diamonds. Another charming
costume, as Dauphine (after Le Brun's picture), has the hair
powdered and turned off the face, with a large toque of velvet,
aigrette of diamonds and feathers, a rouleau of gauze surround-
ing it, and hanging at the back ; the bodice is low, and a lace-
edged gauze fichu is draped over it, showing the neck and cross-
ing in the front without ends; the tight velvet sleeves come to
the wrist, and are bordered with fur ; so is the velvet skirt, which
opens over a satin skirt ; long mittens. The dress worn at the
Trianon : A short quilted skirt ; square bodice; elbow-sleeves,
and train of brocade ; powdered hair ; large velvet hat and
feathers. Another rendering : Pale blue satin skirt, trimmed
with festoons of pale yellow lace, looped up all round with
small wreaths of pale pink '' pompon " roses ; upper skirt of
pink brocaded satin, exactly matching the roses in colour,
looped rather high upon the hips a la Watteau ; square bodice

146 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

of pink brocade, richly trimmed with the same lace as skirt
and pompon roses ; tight elbow-sleeves, with falling lace and
pompon roses ; hair dressed high and powdered ; aigrette of
pink roses and a mass of most magnificent diamonds and
pearle, which were also profusely scattered over the body and
other parts of this beautiful costume.

MARIE DE MEDICIS {2nd Wife, Henri Quatre).
Wears full skirt of rich brocade, just touching gound, with or
without distinct embroidered jewelled front ; pointed bodice ;
stomacher jewelled and embroidered; large upstanding ruff
coming from back of shoulder ; folds of muslin and lace laid
on top of bodice, meeting in front with brooch; sleeves to
wrist in graduated horizontal puffs, cuffs of lace ; hair turned
back from face over cushion ; hair powdered, and covered with
gold dust. Or peach satin, or red velvet with silver tissue, or
gold brocade.

MARIE, LA, DE VILLAGE. Short white silk skirt,
trimmed with blue and orange bows ; blue satin apron trimmed
with guipure lace ; white lace cap fastened with g(Jld pins.

MARIE STUART {7vhen wife of Francis IL, King of
France). Costume worn by the beautiful Countess of Bective
at her own Fancy Ball, 1877 : satin dress, front of gold brocade
covered with jewels, high bodice jewelled, jewelled ruff, sleeves
with puffings at the shoulders of gold brocade and red velvet ;
train of ruby velvet bordered with ermine, embroidered with
fleurs-de-lis, &c. ; white satin pointed cap of the Marie Stuart
form, covered with jewels. The Princess of Wales, as Mary
Stuart, at the Waverley Ball, wore a petticoat of cloth of gold
embroidered with pearls, a dress of ruby velvet with point-
lace, the bodice made with a satin habit-shirt quilted with
pearls ; the sleeves with a puff at the shoulders coming to
the WTist ; the bodice ruby velvet, the stomacher worked
with precious stones ; head-dress of ruby velvet studded
with diamonds and pearls; veil of lisse, jewelled girdle,
and fine parure of jewels. {See Plate VIIL, Fig. 29.)
As Schiller's heroine, Marie Stuart wears white. As Mary
Queen of Scots, she is generally represented in black velvet
and white satin. The velvet robe opens straight down
over the satin petticoat, at a little distance from the centre ;
the velvet bodice is a low square over a satin quilted habit-
shirt ; the sleeves have one puff at top, and are straight to the

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I47

wrist with lace cuffs turning upwards ; a close ruff" round the
throat ; the black velvet Stuart cap bordered with pearls, a
clear musUn veil edged with lace hanging at the back; a
rosary at the side, and a medallion or cross hung round the
neck. {See Plate VIII., Fig. 30.)

MARIE THERESA {Empress of Austria). White
satin petticoat and bodice ; jewelled and embroidered train
from shoulders, of purple velvet bordered with ermine ; crown
on head, and long veil. Or, Costume de Chasse, black
trimmed with gold ; red velvet waistcoat ; scarlet petticoat
with gold band ; cocked hat and white feather ; Brussels lace
cravat ; diamonds.

MARIES, THE QUEEN'S; viz., Mary Beton,
Mary Seton, Mary Hamilton, and Mary Carmichael,

all wear dresses of the Marie Stuart order. Mary Beton,
the eldest, handsomest, and haughtiest, a petticoat of pale blue
satin festooned with pearls ; a train of white satin embroidered
with gold and draped with roses ; a square bodice slashed
with blue ; stomacher and girdle of diamonds and pearls ;
lace ruffles and Marie Stuart cap and veil. The laughing,
roguish, irregular-featured, dark-eyed Mary Seton, ruby
velvet train trimmed with silver; a white satin under-skirt
and stomacher, with lattice pattern of silver and pearls ; and
a black velvet coronet with pearls ; a white veil spangled with
silver. Mary Hamilton, beautiful, pale, dark-haired, and
melancholy ; a blue velvet train over canary bodice, blue velvet
slashed with canary, trimmed with gold braid and pearls ; coif
and veil ; ruff and girdle, with pearls ; and Mary Car-
michael, a dress of cramoise satin (between crimson and
plum colour), with white satin petticoat, trimmed with gold and
pearls, silver brocaded front ; satin head-dress to match ; the
dress also trimmed with pearls ; veil and ruff ; pearl ornaments.

MARIONETTE, LA. White satin over blue, trimmed
with roses and forget-me-nots ; black velvet hat and feather.

MARIOTTE {La Fainille Trouillat). Yellow cashmere
skirt with rows of black velvet ; scarlet cashmere tunic ; black
velvet square bodice ; leg-of mutton sleeves ; blue silk apron
and bib ; Normandy cap, trimmed with lace fastened with gold
pins ; long gold earrings ; gold chatelaine ; blue silk stockings,
black shoes tied with scarlet.

148 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

MARITANA. Rich black ^Spanish dress and veil ; red
silk skirt, yellow sash, and black bodice ; red cap ; the whole
trimmed with sequins and gold trimmings ; ornaments,
diamonds, sequins, and corals. Or, short skirt with satin
tunics, rose, black, and blue, bordered with gold lace ; low
black velvet bodice, with stomacher trimmed with gold ; blue,
red, and black bows on shoulder ; square Italian head-dress of
white silk, trimmed with bands of red and gold ; a tambourine
carried in the hand.

MARJOLAINE, LA {Role Jeanne Granier). A
short, striped brown and white petticoat, bordered with blue ;
high-heeled shoes, with blue bows ; brown stockings ; yellow
tunic, lined with blue, forming a pouf at the back ; a blue
bodice wdth a double basque — one all round, one cut up in
front and at the side This bodice is laced across with brown
and shows a white chemisette beneath. The sleeves are bell-
shaped, and made of brown and white, like the petticoat ; a
coachman's white cape, with yellow revers collar and silver
clasps, covers the shoulders; a high-pointed hat, with blue
feathers ; a yoke across the shoulders, with four Dutch clocks
suspended, completes this dress. The other is even more
piquante : a short white skirt, bound with pink ; white shoes
and pink rosettes ; pink tunic ; white apron ; high jacket,
opening in front to show a waistcoat ; both white, bound with
pink and trimmed with gold ; a close-plaited ruff round the
throat ; a white silk hood lined with pink. Or, dress of rose
and grey satin ; bodice laced with gold ; shoulder knots of
cerise ; pink shoes ; gold bands ; flowers in hand.

MARMITON. Short skirt of brown satin ; white linen
over-dress and bodice with rows of red braid, cut low and
edged with lace ; apron, one corner tucked into waistband ;
blue scarf on shoulders; belt, with knife at side.

MARQUISE. {See also Louis XIV., XV., XVI., and

POUDRE.)

MARQUISE, FRENCH. Petticoat of rich blue
brocaded satin, trimmed with rose point ; train of rose point
and ponceau velvet ; floral trimmings; bodice blue satin and
rose point, with diamond stars ; flowers, feathers, and diamond
ornaments ; tiara and necklace of diamonds.

MARSEILLAISE, LA. Short black velvet riding-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 49

habit, with tricoloured sash ; vest and revers of white satin,
embroidered in gold ; conical hat of black velvet, with tri-
coloured plumes j lace ruffles ; whip in hand.

MARS ETTA {Mada?ne VArchiduc). Pink satin skirt,
trimmed with gold and diamonds, white cashmere embroidered
in gold over pink satin; corselet bodice over white bodice;
square Italian head-dress, and veil of gold-spangled tulle.

MARTHA. Short skirt of red merino ; bodice of
grey trimmed with cerise and black velvet ; coronet of black
velvet ; gauze veil. Or, stuff under-skirt, with long over-skirt
caught up with girdle and satchel ; long bodice, sleeves puffed
at shoulder and elbows ; white linen chemisette ; suited to
mddle-aged woman. (See Plate XIV., Fig 54.)

MARY II. OF ENGLAND, 1689-1702 {Wife of Wil-
liam of Orange). Petticoat of orange poult-de-soie with medal-
lions of black velvet, pearls, and diamonds ; tunic of light blue
satin trimmed with ermine and gold ; bodice and sleeves to
match; bodice low, front studded with jewels ; manteau de cour
of light blue satin bordered with ermine and gold, fastened with
diamond stars ; coronet of diamonds ; order of the Garter.

MARY OF MODENA. Black velvet cap bordered
with diamonds, diamond crown in centre ; bodice of dark
velvet made low ; high ruff at back, quarter of a yard deep, on
wire ; blue satin carried round the front and neck, the puffed
sleeves slashed with it; velvet train showing satin front, worked
in pearls.

MARY, MARY, QUITE CONTRARY. Quilted
petticoat, with coloured pictures of " pretty girls all in a row,"
bordered with silver cord ; satin tunic with silver bells, having
garlands of cockle-shells and primroses; the bodice a low
square, with long sleeves trimmed to match ; satin hat with
primroses, bells, and cockle-shells ; silver chatelaine of spade,
hoe, rake, and watering-pot ; tiny watering-pots for earrings ;
cockle-shell necklace ; mittens ; high-heeled satin shoes. Pink
and blue, white and blue, and pale green are suitable colours.
Or, white satin short dress scolloped and bound with pale
blue and edged with plaits ; silver hanging bells introduced
between each picture.

MASCOTTE. Dress of cream cashmere, body and skirt
slashed with crimson silk and gold, with epaulettes of the

150 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

same ; tunic embroidered with gold, edged with gold fringe,
looped with gold girdle and tassels; toque of crimson and
gold ; vivandiere's canteen and gauntlets. Also dark brown
wobllen dress and straw hat, large bunches of poppies and
field flowers outside ; gold collarette ; vivandiere's barrel and
gauntlet gloves. The gipsy costume worn by Mdlle. Dinelli in
the third act of La Mascotte was composed of a drapery
of crimson and gold, shorter on one side than the other, but
nowhere reaching the ground. Coloured silk stockings and
shoes, with sandals of gold reaching to the knee ; a handker-
chief of red and gold tied over dark flowing hair ; tambourine ;
no gloves or mittens worn. {See Bettina.)

MASHER. Short and scanty black satin skirt; black
satin coat ; shirt front and typical collar ; a cane in hand ;
crush hat.

MASHERETTE. Black satin tail coat and skirt, with
white waistcoat ; black embroidered stockings ; crimson silk
handerchief ; opera hat and crutch stick; high WeUington
boots ; shirt front ; high collar ; eyeglass in eye ; buttonhole.

MATCH GIRL. Short costume of blue and white
cotton, with low bodice of cherry-coloured muslin ; kerchief ;
hair in long plaits ; muslin cap ; basket with matches. Or,
short stuff gown, red plaid shawl, close straw bonnet, matches
in tray hanging from shoulder.

MATELOTTE. {See Fish-girl.)

MATHILDE, EMPRESS. Dress, pale blue and cream
brocade ; long flowing drapery of cream cashmere and
jewelled girdle ; head-dress of Indian muslin and jewelled
crown.

MATILDA {Wife of William the Conqueror^ of iioo).
Tunic of crimson velvet, with gold border ; blue mantle ; gold
chatelaine ; cream satin robe, with fleur-de-lys of blue velvet
jewelled crown, veil ; blue and gold girdle and tassels.

MARTON. Large full red stuff gown, made to touch the
ground ; stay bodice of the same, laced with gold, muslin
kerchief tucked inside ; large linen sleeves in one puff to
elbow ; becoming muslin cap, after the order of the Olivia.

MAUD, LADY {Ages ago). White silk petticoat;
bodice and tunic trimmed with gold lace and fringe ; XVth

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 151

century head-dress of white satin and pearls ; veil spangled
with gold ; red rose in bodice ; diamond and pearl
ornaments.

MAY, MAY QUEEN. Flowered brocade trimmed with
may blossom. Or, green and white striped satin skirt, pink satin
tunic, and low square bodice festooned with may-flowers ; a
maypole, surmounted by flowers, carried in the hand ; a crown
of hawthorn, primroses, and marguerites, and a tulle veil. Some-
times a simple village girl's white muslin dress is worn, with
these floral trimmings, for this character. {See Rosiere.)

MECKLENBURG BRIDE. (6"^^ CxErman Peasant. )

MEDEA. Blue velvet robe, bordered with gold, made in
classic style ; dagger in the hand ; flowing hair, gold bracelet.

MEDI>^VAL. This term for fancy costume has a very
extended meaning. It is applied to almost any dress worn
during the period of the middle ages, and after. The following
are a few descriptions : Corselet and sleeves of bright red
velvet with epaulettes, and plaited chemisette of pink crepe
or gauze ; the sleeves tight to wrist with gold embroidered
cuff's, matching the stomacher on the low square bodice, made
with belt j short skirt of striped red and white silk, with front
breadth of gold embroidery, satchel pocket, close plaited ruff
at throat ; large silk or velvet hat with feathers. The German
dresses of XVth and XVIth centuries come often under the
category, with the low square bodice ; full white chemisettes ;
close ruff; hair in plaits ; large apron ; skirt flowing, but held
up by girdle, with aumoniere bag attached ; the tight sleeves
puffed at shoulder and elbow with white muslin, the velvet cuff
falling over the hand. Occasionally the dresses are made with
bodice and skirt in one, or with long bodices coming well down
on to the hips, the puffings caught down with beads. A
Mediaeval Vivandiere wears a blue cashmere skirt, with
bands of velvet round the sleeves of blue and scarlet, puffed with
a check pattern on the forearm; cambric bib and apron; broad
velvet hat with feathers ; keg slung round the figure ; the
bodice comes high to the throat with ruff, and has rows of
black velvet going round the neck. A mediaeval dress, well
carried out, admits of magnificent brocade and velvet, and
antique jewellery of many kinds.

MEDICIS. {See Catherine and Marie de Medicis,
Francis II., &c.)

152 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

MEDORA. Amber satin petticoat, trimmed with gold;
Greek bodice and tunic of black satin ; hair in plaits, round
Oriental satin cap embroidered in gold, with gauze veil.

MEDUSA. Black classic dress of soft cashmere, trimmed
with lizards, scorpions, and dragons ; snakes in hair, and snakes
for ornaments.

MEG MERRILIES (Heart of Mid-Lothian). Blue
riding jacket with gold lace; hair clubbed like a man, a
bunch of broken feathers attached ; riding skirt, gloves, bunch
of old faded flowers in front, whip in hand.

MELNOTTE, WIDOW {Lady of Lyons). Plain
striped grey gingham dress ; black apron ; short black cape ; over
shoulders; cap.

MERCURY. {Girl.) Carries caduceus. Black velvet
Phrygian cap, steel ornament in front, white wings at the
back, repeated on heels and at back of plaited lace ruff; white
short dress, panels of jet.

MERCY. {See Geneva Sister.)

MERE MICHEL. {See Hubbard, Mother, and
Appendix.

MERMAID. Dress with low bodice of eau de Nile silk,
covered with drapery of sea green tulle, with a profusion of white
corals, shells, marine grass, flowers, and crystallised foam ;
the left shoulder of the dress ornamented with a cluster of
diamonds ; the right shoulder and ceinture with silvery
iridescent gems ; flowing hair crowned with corals, pearls, and
diamonds, interspersed with pendants of seagrass. {See Water-
Nymph.)

MERVEILLEUSE. {Period of French devolution.)
Nothing can be too eccentric. Skirt of gold and spotted
muslin, with gathered flounces sewn with red, and headed by
crossbands ; green Directoire bodice, with belt, lined with red ;
double sleeves, both ending in lace ruflles, the upper one
coming to elbow ; muslin fichu ; large jabot and ruffles ; enor-
mous bouquet fastened on left shoulder ; crimson satin boots ;
large hat trimmed with red and green feathers, fastened with
tricolour cockade ; snuff'-box, gloves, and eye-glass ; hair plaited
in pigtail and tied. The Merveilleuses had adopted all the
vagaries of their male friends, the Incroyables — the dishevelled
locks, the hair a la victime, hat d la Charlotte Corday, with
tri-coloured scarf tied under the armpits, stiff stocks, eye-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 53

glasses, sticks, and quaint hats stuck on the head anyhow,
with trimmings protruding in all directions. The turned-down
collar and the revers were also copied, as well as the
dangling watches and charms. Underclothing was almost
dispensed with, as well as all substantial stuffs ; only muslin,
organdy, tarlatane, gauze, and sometimes, but seldom,
taffetas, composed the narrow dresses, which were often
embroidered with chain-stitch, and, for evening wear, with
gold and spangles, when the robes a rAthhiienne were
frequently opened at the side and caught up with jewels or
bouquets of artificial flowers, just then beginning to re-appear.
Quite a study was required to gracefully slip the train in the
belt or throw it over the arm. The short spencer, or ca7iezou^
was cut extremely low for all occasions, hence the necessity of
always carrying a scarf ready to be thrown over the shoulders
when required. Row^s of Roman pearls and long gloves
covered the bare arms, and the feet were encased in tiny
slippers, strapped round the ankles with coloured ribbons.
Like powder, rouge had been abandoned, and blonde was the
colour obligatory for the hair. The following could be worn :
Narrow skirt of white muslin, or mousseline de laine, orna-
mented with chain or satin stich ; baby bodice with sash tied
at the side supporting a bouquet ; embroidered silk mittens ;
reticule of plush ; large hat with soft crown and plume of
feathers. Or, kilted skirt of chaudron nun's cloth, scalloped
at edged and spotted with gold at every scallop; pointed
panel and scarf in bengaline ; plastron scarf and left side
panel in blue taffetas, the two latter richly embroidered ; habit
bodice with long tails of pale blue satin, striped with chaudron
velvet ; stomacher and charm-holder of brown velvet ; facings
of brown corded silk ; silk muslin tie, fastened below the chin
in a huge bow ; roses and aigrette in the felt hat and on the
shoulder. Skirt of fine cream muslin slightly looped up on
one side to show the foot in its satin sandalled shoe of a
colour matching the Directoire coat, of pale pink satin lined
with coloured silk and with large revers and cuffs of same
colour. The coat cut in a low V at the throat, and filled in with
an enormous jabot of soft creamy lace pinned with one or two
diamond brooches; bows of different coloured ribbons forming
shoulder knots ; the dress completed by large white felt hat
turned up in front and adorned with pink and olive feathers ;
diamond clasp ; long cream buttonless gloves, and pink
and olive reticule on arm* Or, long skirt of nun's veiHng,

154 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

the hem embroidered with pale blue and pink flowers ; a
short-waisted tail coat, pale pink brocade with revers of blue
satin ; large buttons, broad frills at neck and wrist ; pale blue
satin hat, pink and ostrich feathers standing up straight on one
side ; long cane in one hand and an eyeglass in the other.
Or, white three-cornered hat, powdered hair, black silver
tipped walking stick fastened with satin ribbon at handle. Or,
short apple green skirt pinked out ; ruche of pink silk at the
hem ; short waisted pink bodice, sleeves one puff to elbow ;
pink sash, pink reticule ; large green poke bonnet trimmed with
pink roses ; buttonless gloves ; fan on arm.

MEUNIERE DE VILLAGE. _ Short white silk skirt
and bodice, striped with rose colour ; white apron ; lace cap and
gold windmill in it.

MEXICAN. Short skirt of black and red, with scarf of
many colours wrapped round the head and falling on dress.
Much gold about the costume ; gold sequins, chains, &c. Or,
long yellow trousers, opening near the feet on the outside of
the leg, and showing a plaiting of muslin beneath ; the
bodice comes low in the neck, opens on the shoulder, and is
embroidered all round in black ; a coloured scarf is wound
about the waist, a round hat on the head ; short skirt.

MEXICAN GIPSY. Black satin vandyke skirt, with
red satin scarf over black, and red satin bodice covered with
sequins ; red satin head-dress and Mexican ornaments.

MICAELA {Carmen). Short white cashmere skirt, bor-
dered with band of blue ; blue over-skirt, trimmed up the
front ; low square bodice, with grenat velvet, revers of the
grenat velvet bordering white stomacher ; white linen head-
dress, fastened with gold pins, and flowing at the back ; muslin
cap. (Le Cceur et la Maift). Short striped red and yellow
petticoat ; three tunics above of red, matching red stay-bodice,
cut square in the neck ; large straw hat j wreath of flowers.

MIDNIGHT. Black tulle, with ostrich feather trimming,
and silver stars. (6'(?^ Night.)

MIDSUMMER NIGHT. Electric blue satin edged
with a ruche of silver gauze, with scarlet poppies at intervals,
and draperies of blue tulle above, covered with silver stars,
draped high on one side, with a wreath of poppies; low bodice
trimmed with gauze, silver and poppies, with epaulettes of blue

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 155

ribbon edged with silver ; bat wings are attached to the back,
the veinings outlined with silver cord, the extreme points of
the wings attached to silver bracelets ; head-dress, bat's head
with diamond stars ; blue band round the throat, with
diamond stars ; black gloves and stockings ; blue satin shoes,
diamond buckles ; a fan of silver tinsel tied with blue ribbon.

MIGNON. The beggar-girl wears a loose grey cashmere
dress, with girdle round the w^aist and hanging sleeves ; bare
feet and sandals ; hair flowing on shoulders. After Scheffer's
picture : Peasant's skirt of brown woollen material ; cream-
coloured bodice, blue posy in her belt ; 2nd dress : Page's
costume of blue velvet ; 3rd dress : White silk Watteau
trimmed with pink.

MIGNON ETTE. Short quilted satin petticoat of palest
yellow, with narrow brown braid between the diamonds ; pale
olive-green brocaded bodice and tunic, the bodice high,
turned back at the throat to show the lining of light brown,
and laced down the front with brown cord, over a chemisette
of pale yellow satin; the tunic has the corners turned
back to show the brown lining ; plain white kerchief round
the throat ; hair in a knot at the back ; mittens ; light
brown silk stockings, and high-heeled shoes with buckles ;
a bunch of mignonette to fasten the kerchief at the side of
the hair, and another bunch in an old-fashioned basket on
the arm.

MIKADO. The Three Little Maids wear robes so close-
fitting that they materially interfere with the free action of the
feet and legs ; very wide sashes defining the waist, and at the
back forming huge bows. Each dress is flowered and em-
broidered all over. Yum-Yum, one of a deep fraise ecrase
shade. Pittl Sing, white and gold. Peep-Bo, bluish green ;
their hairs are dressed in the loops and bows associated with
Japan, thrust through with tiny fans. Katisha, an elderly
lady in love with Nanki-Poo. Elaborate dresses in same style,
two shades of terra-cotta, almost hidden with gold embroidery.

MILK GIRL. Bodice and skirt of some woollen fabric
with tunic ; a check woollen kerchief crossed over the neck,
and tied at the back ; white apron with tucks at the edge, and
large pockets on either side ; large poke bonnet of straw
trimmed with blue ribbons, yokes on the shoulders. Or, a sage-

L

156 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

green skirt ; nasturtium Pompadour polonaise, short sleeves ;
muslin kerchief and mob cap ; and carries the orthodox pail.

MILKMAID. {See "My Pretty Maid.")

MILLER'S DAUGHTER. Similar dress of white
cashmere trimmed with gold. Sometimes this and Miller's
Maid are made of white sateen, and worn with powdered hair.

MILLER'S "WIFE. Stripped woollen skirt with laveuse
tunic of plain colour ; low striped bodice with white sleeves ;
toy windmill on the top of muslin cap.

MILLINER, ^y^HITE {Comedy by Douglas Jerrold).
FuUskirt of soft white lawn, over-skirt opening in front, caught
up in a pouf about the hips ; large lace-edged apron with a
bunch of white ribbons on one side ; pointed bodice laced in
front, cut square, with elbow sleeves, fichu and ruffles ; high
white cap ; a white velvet mask edged with lace.

MILLIONNAIRE. {Same as Money.)

MINNA TROIL. {See Brenda Troil.)

MINNA AND BRENDA TROIL. {See Brenda.)

MIRANDA {Tempest). White cashmere dress, bordered
with silver, the skirt gathered on to the long cuirass bodice, cut
square at the neck, with hanging sleeves, a satchel pocket at
the side ; silver coronet and veil.

MIRTH, QUEEN OF. Rose-coloured skirt, white
satin front, and low square bodice, trimmed with bells,
crocuses, shamrocks, and butterflies (emblems of mirth);
coronet and veil ; a sceptre surmounted by a butterfly ; rose-
coloured shoes.

MISS MUFFET. Chintz, or plain blue sateen dress,
trimmed with gold lace ; muslin fichu and mittens ; spider in
cap. Or, short dress of pale blue sateen trimmed with gold
lace ; muslin apron, fichu and cap, the latter surmounted by
a spoon and spider.

MIST. Grey tulle, scattered over with dewdrops ; square
cut bodice, and sacque of grey ; grey shaded tulle veil of the
same fastened in powdered hair and to front of bodice, with
diamonds ; grey nhoes, gloves, stockings and fan ; diamond
ornaments.

XI

MONTE CARLO

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 57

MOLDAVIAN PEASANT. High white chemisette
fastened with cherry ribbons ; corselet of same colour, trimmed
with lace and embroidered in gold ; large muslin apron over
short dark skirt ; hair plaited with cherry-coloured ribbon.

MOLLY MALONE ( Widdy Malone). Red and blue
flannel costume, made like an Irish peasant's, but with a wheel-
barrow embroidered on the side of tunic. (See Colleen
Bawn, Connaught Peasant, &c.)

MONEY. Dark brown skirt, on it a row of bank-notes
printed on white satin ; white satin tunic, with purse-shaped
pocket and ;£". s. d. embroidered on it; gold-coloured satin low
bodice, with long sleeves of gold-spangled tulle ; a long netted
crimson silk scarf, with a tassel and steel rings at either end,
slung round the waist ; a satin cap of white, brown, and gold
satin covered, as is the entire dress, with sequins. (See Coins
and Gold.)

MONTE CARLO. Dress, half red satin, half black
velvet and lace ; one shoe red, one black ; short skirt fringed
with coins, and trimmed with cards ; pointed coronet of red
satin, with aigrette of cards on shoulder ; croupier's rake carried
in hand; and Rouge et Noir. {See Coloured Illustration,.
Plate XI.)

MONTESPAN, MADAME DE. Long full plaii>
white satin skirt ; bodice of the same half high, pointed back
and front ; low fichu folded above and fastened with jewel in
front ; large puffed sleeves to elbow, slashed horizontally ;.
hair in curls ; diamond ornaments, and sometimes a train,
over shoulders.

MONTHS. {See January, Febuary, March, April,.
May, June, July, August, September, October,
November, December.)

MOONLIGHT, MOONSHINE, MOON, LUNA,
CLAIRE DE LUNE. A silver-spangled tulle evening
dress, over white satin ; a mantle of the same, bordered with
silver lace, attached to the shoulders of the low bodice ; a
white and silver scarf twisted round the head, fastened either
with diamonds or with silver crescents, which must be intro-
duced on the shoulders, front of the bodice, and skirt ; white
satin shoes with crescents ; silver ornaments. Dark grey and
silver is another pretty combination for the character.

L 2

158 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

Moonshine, all of black tulle, with a basque bodice of silver
brocade ; the tunic edged with a most delicate fringe of
crimped silver, looped at one side with one large star; the
head-dress, a close-fitting turban cap of silver brocade, with a
narrow fringe of crimped silver ; black long gloves, with bands
of silver tissue or brocade, about an inch wide, at equal
distances ; black fan with silver sticks. This costume could
be called Night, if preferred, and, to make it more peculiar, a
bat could be fixed on the left shoulder. Another costume for
Moon is a dress of soft white silk, trimmed and bordered with
brown velvet cut in Vandykes, three-quarter moons in gold cloth
or yellow silk appliqued on the velvet ; plastron placed on low
bodice, the same on short sleeves ; blue scarf round waist,
edged with gold ; gold and silver-spangled tulle round neck ;
sma.ll silver-spangled cap with a bunch of arrows, surmounted
by crescent, on one side. Or, a dress trimmed with moonlight
tints on grey and silver ; an electric star in hair is a novel
feature. A blue gauze dress, or sometimes green, may be worn.

MOORISH. Maize satin petticoat, embroidered with
black ; ruby velvet tunic and jacket, trimmed with gold lace ;
velvet shoes to match, embroidered with gold ; Moorish em-
broidered sash ; gold coins and silk net on hair ; Algerian
ornaments ; hair in plaits, surmounted by high Moorish head-
dress made of white linen and bordered with gold.

MORAVIAN PEASANT. Short cotton skirt, dark
short apron ; white full bodice, open in front, sleeves to elbow,
short ; low velvet bodice fastening with one button ; hair
covered with dark silk handkerchief having fringed ends.

MORAVIAN WOMAN OF THE XVIIth CEN-
TURY. Ruff of fine linen plaited and edged with lace ;
sleeves puffed to elbow, with lace confined by a velvet band
above the elbow ; head-dress of gold, embroidered silk scarf,
the same at waist ; embroidered velvet bodice high to throat ;
gay coloured petticoat.

MORGIANA. Eastern dress of white lace with bands
of pale grey, almost covered with sequins; drapery of red
with gold embroidery ; small red head-dress ; hair in pendent
plaits.

MORNING. Dress of grey tulle, the upper skirt
covered with grey glass drops. A bird on one shoulder ; veil

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 59

of dew spangled tulle ; grey shoes and hose ; grey fan. Or,
skirt bordered with grey, pink and blue tulle flounces and
draperies of the same at the back with paniers of pale grey
foulard looped with long bows of ribbon, grey, pink, blue and
yellow; grey satin bodice with draperies of the coloured
tulle all round ; a large pink rose covered with dew drops on one
shoulder ; the hair powdered and dressed high with butter-
flies quivering over it and a tuft of dew-laden roses; long
grey gloves wdth rosebuds and streamers attached ; fan ot
real flowers veiled with dewdrop lace ; pearl ornaments.
{See also Night and Morning.) Or, white silk or cashmere
dress made in classic fashion with various musical instruments
painted upon itj an orange velvet scarf draped about the
bodice, fringed with gold surmounted by the notes of music ;
head-dress a crown with golden bars lined with blue ; a lyre
carried in the hand.

MORNING STAR. {See Star.)

MOROCCO. Silk trousers, embroidered jacket, belt,
coins on head-dress.

MOTHER EARTH. {See Earth.)

MOULIN A VENT. Short costume of pink satin, with
low yellow satin bodice and white stomacher, laced across with
two shades ; powdered hair, a small windmill as an aigrette ;
windmill also on left shoulder ; the same for ear-rings, and on
shoes, and painted on the gloves; a pink satin ribbon, with
bow at neck, windmill depending.

MOUSSE. Sailor's hat lined with blue. Black velvet
jacket trimmed with gold lace and buttons, worn over a white
satin waistcoat, large black silk bow in front ; the upper
skirt cardinal silk bunched up at the back, displaying the
white satin petticoat in front, striped with pale blue satin and
edged with narrow lace ; pale blue stockings, cloth gaiters,
and patent leather shoes.

MOYA. An Irish girl ; costume of silver-watered tissue
covered with water-lilies, anacharies and water-plantain ; on
the head is a large water-lily, with long silver grass and weeds
hanging down over the hair, which is worn flowing ; in the
hand a long reed, from which hang valisneria, sphagnum, and
other aquatic weeds.

MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING. {See Beatrice.)

l6o FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

MUETTE DE PORTICI, LA. Short blue petticoat
bound with light maize ; a muslin apron, a Roman scarf about
the waist ; a low blue stay bodice, with shoulder-straps trimmed
with gold braid, and worn over a white muslin chemisette, with
long sleeves ; square Roman head-dress, fastened with coral
pins, coral ornaments.

MUSCADIN. White satin waistcoat ; maroon satin coat
with gold buttons ; white satin skirt draped with blue bows,
showing petticoat of striped Pompadour satin ; open-work
stockings, maroon shoes, blue bows, gilt heels ; conical cap of
silk beaver with roses and blue flowers ; directoire eye-glass,
gnarled stick with gold knob ; powdered periwig ; lace cravat.

MUSE DE LA POESIE. Under-skirt of blue satin
bordered with gold cord, and embroidered with gold in front ;
black satin train, embroidered with gold lyres ; cuirass bodice
of amber satin, bordered with a black gold-embroidered band,
studded with precious stones ; a crown of gold wheat-ears,
long gold-spangled tulle veil.

MUSHROOMS. Pale cream silk evening dress, trimmed
with moss and mushrooms.

MUSIC. White satin dress trimmed round the edge with
tulle and black velvet, to represent the keyboard of a piano,
and above this two rows of notes and lines formed with velvet
and buttons ; a scarf draped across the skirt has the treble
and bass clefs on the fringed ends ; the low bodice has winged
sleeves, a lyre on the shoulders ; the same in the centre of the
coronet, and on the shoes, made of white satin. On the bodice
is a draped bertha fastening beneath a lyre. (See Plate XIII.,
Fig. 52.) Two sisters might appear as Music and Painting.
(See Painting.) Or, soft dress of crepe de Chine or llama, the
bodice low and full, with belt; embroidered with ivy leaves along
the top, the same carried round the pendent sleeves from elbow ;
musical instrument in the hand. Or, short eau de Nil silk skirt,
studded with sharps and flats, five rows of velvet with notes to
represent a piece of music. In the hand a Spanish guitar.

MY COLOUR BOX AND PALETTE. Short
skirt of American cloth with landscapes painted on it, a tunic
of coarse linen with paint tubes and brown satin ribbon ; the
tubes carried as a fringe all round, with alternating shells of
gold paint ; brown velvet jacket with white muslin shirt ; a

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. l6l

cord round the waist with palette and knife ; old point lace
collar, tan gloves ; head-dress made like a flat cap. Or the
character might wear brown sateen with other colours sewn
upon it, to resemble dabs of colour, a red scarf round hips
holding palette ; brown bodice, red waistcoat, muslin fichu
and sleeves with tubes intermixed ; brushes forming an
aigrette in the hair ; fan like palette ; brown gloves and
stockings.

"MY PRETTY MAID." Short coloured petticoat ;
an open tunic of blue flowered chintz, pointed bodice laced
across the front ; muslin kerchief; straw hat bound with black
velvet, and tied under the chin; boots laced up the] front;
yoke and milk-pails.

NANCE REDFERN. {See Hubbard, Mother.)

NANCIEBEL, LADY. Sage green velvet skirt, caught
up on left side with gold girdle, showing primrose under-skirt ;
velvet cap with heron's plume ; peacock fan.

NANCY LEE. Blue and white striped petticoat ; blue
or red upper-skirt, looped up with a large silver anchor ; full
bodice, or blue cloth jacket, with sailor collar; red apron,
trimmed with yellow ; white cap, red handkerchief over it tied
under chin ; blue stockings, black high-heeled shoes. Some-
times a black tarpauHn hat is worn with "Nancy Lee" upon it.

NANCY OF THE VALE {Shensfone). Olive
green silk dress with large bunch of daffodils on the bodice.
Poke bonnet with yellow ribbons ; a reticule hanging from
the arm.

NAUTCH GIRL. Bare feet; muslin full plaited
skirt, bordered with gold, made short ; tight-fitting long-
sleeved under-dress ; silk drapery over one shoulder and under
arm, bordered with embroidery ; hair in two long plaits ;
flowers and gold and silver ornaments on head ; many beads
about neck ; cloak of gold and white muslin from the head
and entwined about the figure ; anklets and bracelets.

NEAPOLITAN ORANGE GIRL. Black satin
short skirt, hemmed with a yellow band, long green silk apron
fringed with red and embroidered with red and yellow silks ;
low square sleeveless black velvet bodice, worked with yellow,
and laced over a chemisette of white batiste ; white puff" to sleeves

l62 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

from shoulder, the rest velvet, tight to arm ; square Italian head-
dress striped, with coloured beads round neck. PEASANT
GIRL. Pink silk skirt with claret velvet round the hem :
white silk apron striped horizontally with many colours ;
claret velvet bodice with pink revers over low-cut waistcoat to
match, crossed with gold bands, long sleeves ; coral necklace ;
head-dress to match apron, fastened with gold pins ; tambou-
rine in hand. {See Italian.)

NEEDLES AND PINS. This dress is after the
Mother Hubbard order. {See Hubbard and Workbox.) A
quilted skirt, with chintz train ; low black velvet bodice, fichu ;
powdered hair ; cap and pointed velvet hat. In front of the
dress every kind of needle and pin is inserted. Pins forming
the motto : " Needles and pins, needles and pins; when a man
marries his troubles begin," on the train.

NEGLIGE DRESS, 1791. Petticoat and sacque of
brocade, with ruffles ; pointed shoes ; feather and pearls in hair ;
mouche on cheek and chin. A neglige is often made of muslin,
trimmed with lace, and looped up with ribbons over petticoat.

NELL GWYNNE. Long pink skirt, with blue tunic ;
low bodice ; full puffed sleeves, slashed at shoulder ; hair curled
and confined by pink ribbon ; low muslin fichu about the
shoulders, the ends tucked into the front of bodice. She is-
accompanied by a pet lamb. Or, blue satin skirt draped
with brocade ; black velvet bodice with the Nell Gwynne hat
having loops of satin ribbon ; blue stockings and shoes.

NEWHAYEN FISHWOMAN. (6"^^ Fish-girls, &c>

NEWSPAPERS. {See Press.)

NICKLEBY, MRS. Widow's cap ; a plain skirted black
gown, a pointed bodice cut en cceur at the neck, with a turn-
down collar and bishop sleeves, with muslin cap ; or, instead
of the cap, a large old-fashioned coal-scuttle bonnet, with
plaited border and large veil, or with a close plaited border to
a cap with a raised crown. Sometimes she has a shawl about
her shoulders ; sometimes a pelerine coming to the shoulders^
with a frill round.

NIGHT. A long black tulle fashionably-made evening
dress, spangled with silver stars and crescents, silver crescent
ornaments, silver belt; a crescent on the head, and long crescent

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 63

spangled veil ; a silver wand, with crescent at the top ; an owl
on the shoulder ; black fan, having moonlight scene painted
upon it. Sometimes the bodice is made a la Vi'erge, with
long pendent sleeves. Black gloves, black satin shoes, with
crescents. This is the ordinary rendering, and with stars only,
instead of crescents, is suitable also for Evening Star, or
Starry Night. A more original dress for Night is a black
tulle, with a bouillonne of blue tulle at the edge, trimmed with
silver stars ; a train of bluish-black satin, studded with silver
stars and comets; a pale blue gauze scarf, representing
the Milky Way ; stars seen through it ; on one side the
constellation Orion ; the veil attached to the shoulder by a
nightingale and the red berries of the deadly nightshade,
surmounted by a bat with outstretched wings. This character
is sometimes called The Trailing Garments of the
Night. Or, dark blue tulle over satin, with silver stars dotted
all over, the bodice trimmed with shimmering silver fringe ;
a silver band round the head, with a crescent moon in front ;
a long blue tulle veil, with stars of various sizes ; a dark blue
fan with silver sticks, and a moonlight scene painted in white
and grey; ornaments, silver stars. Or, a dress half black
half white satin with stars and crescents, and in the hair;
an owl in front of the bodice and at the side. (See Plate IX.,
Fig. 34.) Queen of the Night. Sapphire blue velvet,
studded with silver poppies, and bordered with silver fringe in
the form of rays ; a fringe round the waist of sapphires and
diamonds ; the head-dress an enormous pouf of sapphire blue
feathers sprinkled with silver, the hair thickly studded with
diamonds ; and an enormous black tulle veil enveloping the
figure, fastened to the shoulders as wings. Night and
Morning. Bodice and short dress of velvet and white
satin, one-half completely black and the other white ; white
and black stockings and shoes ; velvet and white satin cap.
Night on the Bosphorus. A blue satin dress studded
with gold stars ; long black veil studded with silver and
diamond crescents. Night and Morning. Chocolate
and blue satin dress, made with a low bodice ; a striped
skirt ; stars and moon on one side, on the other on a cream
ground the rising sun in gold embroidery. Night and Day.
Powdered hair, the dark purple and pure white feathers fas-
tened in their place by a diamond star ; the bodice half dark
purple satin, and half white ; on one shoulder a bouquet of
small starry jewels, each one illuminated with electric light ;

164 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

the skirt, alternate draperies of purple and white satin ; on
the panel which represents day a clear sky is embroidered,
and a sun in gold, and clouds in faint rose-colour and lilac,
bordered with gold ; on the dark purple draperies, for night,
a crescent moon and clusters of stars embroidered in silver ;
one glove and one stocking purple, the other two white ; the
shoes also are alternately white and blue, with diamond stars
upon each foot.

NINETEENTH CENTURY, EARLY PORTION

OF. The dresses were made with narrow skirts; short
waists ; long gloves and large bonnets were worn.

NOAH'S ARK {as worn at the Empress Eugenie's Fancy
Ball). Toy Noah's Ark on head, with two little silver animals
running into it, up the parting ; long white dress, with silver
animals in pairs, round ; a dove of promise on the shoulder.

NOCTURNE. In black and white, or red and white,
after Whistler. The term is generally applied to a stylish
evening dress of the above mixtures. The name is a fashion
of the hour, and finds favour with those who do not care for
decided fancy costumes.

NORMA. {See Druidess.)

NORMANDY PEASANT, NORMANDY BRIDE,
NORMANDY FISH-WIFE. The peasant's dress
consists of a bright-coloured petticoat, striped or plain, with
rows of black velvet ; tunic bunched up, either by drawing
through the placket-hole, or sewing the side breadths together
at the back, so that the inside of the skirt is visible ; the tunic
should form a contrast to the skirt, such as blue over red, violet
over amber. The bodice terminates at the waist, is close-fitting,
and has only a shoulder-strap, the linen sleeves having a wide
band, and coming below the elbow. If this is worn over a
linen chemisette, it is plain in front ; if a muslin lace-edged
fichu is worn, it is laced across the front, with coloured cord.
The following is a good rendering :— Short striped skirt;
black velvet bodice, worn over white chemisette with sleeves
to elbow; tunic lined with the colour; high cap. {See Coloured
Illustration, No. XII.) A gay coloured cotton kerchief may
be tucked into bodice ; and a large holland pocket worn ;
with grey stockings ; black shoes ; ornaments, gold. In
the real Normandy caps there is a great variety, and they

XII

NORMANDY

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 65

are handed down from generation to generation. Two shapes
prevail for Fancy Balls, one such as "Evangeline" wears,
resembling the Foundling cap, made in thick muslin, with a
high crown, low at the back, a shaped piece fitting the head
in front, and lappets at the side, like a hound's ears, bordered
with lace, a bow at the top, and fastened on with gold pins ;
the other, a full-dress cap, stands up above the forehead some
12 inches, terminating in a point of 3 inches broad. This
upstanding crown is covered with rows of lace and bows
of ribbon, and to the top at the back a voluminous lace-edged
veil is attached. Large gold earrings and cross, coloured striped
stockings, and black shoes with coloured bows and heels, com-
plete the costume. It can be carried out in silks, woollens,
and cotton. {See Coloured Illustration, No. XII.) A
Normandy Fishwife, in addition, carries a basket
of fish at her back, and has a net round her waist. A
Normandy Bride would wear a white muslin skirt, trimmed
with white satin, the apron bordered with swansdown ; a blue
silk bodice and tunic ; a muslin fichu, and high cap, with white
flowers.

NORNAS. The two Scandmavian Sisters who sat
round the Ygdrasdil tree ; one in a robe of pale green Indian
silk, high bodice, full long sleeves ; the hem worked in silver,
with Runic characters ; belt of silver ; hair floating on
shoulders, mistletoe wreath. The other sister in the same, of
diflerent colouring, mixed with gold.

NORTHERN STAR. {See Star.)

NORWEGIAN PEASANTS, NORWEGIAN
FISH-GIRL, NORWEGIAN BRIDE. The peasant
woman wears red stockings and black shoes ; a short black
skirt, striped with red and green ; the sleeveless jacket bodice,
made of scarlet cloth, terminates in a silver belt, trimmed with
green and silver ; it has a low red cloth stomacher one mass of
silver and beads ; a long-sleeved white linen chemisette high
to the throat, with all-round collar, is worn under it, fastened
with a silver brooch, and festooned with silver. A large white
linen apron reaches almost to the hem of the skirt, and has a
band across it of red and green embroidery. The head-dress
is of white linen, hiding the hair in front like a fez, and has
a pendent point and tassel. The hair hangs down the back
in long plaits. Norwegian silver ornaments. The Norwegian

1 66 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

Bride wears a similar dress, with large silver Norwegian crown,
veil, and ornaments. The Norwegian Fish-girl has a net
round waist.

NOURMAHAL {Lalla Rookh). Short amber satin skirt
trimmed with blue and gold ; amber satin bodice studded with
jewels. Or, a pelisse, with bodice and narrow tunic in one,
over short skirt ; transparent pendent sleeves ; blue and gold
sash and cap ; the hair plaited and entwined with pearls ; white
full gold-spangled trousers; white and gold slippers; feather
fan. Blue and red, or red and green, may be used instead of
amber and blue.

NOVA SCOTIA. Skirt of red bunting draped with
scarves of red, blue, and yellow, made of Surah silk fas-
tened on with burgees ; low bodice edged with gold ; a blue
ribbon with Nova Scotia embroidered in gold, crossing from
shoulder to waist; aigrette of red and yellow ospreys; fan
of red, blue, and yellow silk ; long Suede gloves tied with red
ribbon. This is suitable to a nautical fancy ball.

NOVEMBER. A fashionable evening dress of grey tulle
to resemble a November fos.

'a*

NOVICE. (^-^^NuN.)

NUBIAN. Dress of rich colouring, red and yellow, with
the hair almost hidden by a coloured handerchief twisted about
it ; an Egyptian harp carried in hand ; many coins and beads
for jewellery ; the sleeves are sometimes long, sometimes short;
the bodice is a mere drapery ; sometimes a sleeveless jacket is
worn over all.

NUMBER, SPECIAL CHRISTMAS. Cap such as
was worn by printers some time ago, something like a Scotch
cap made of printed sateen, with a black satin band inscribed
with the word " Newspaper," quill pens and sealing wax at the
side ; necklet of white cardboard bound with pink tape ; low
bodice and skirt of sateen, printed with news and trimmed
with printed news ; waistband with special Christmas number ;
chatelaine with printer's ink bottle, composing stick and roller ;
the skirt principally of newspaper ; apron made of a coloured
picture ; black mittens ; stockings and shoes ; bracelets of
gold nibs, and lead type on pink.

^^.x.

WAOQj.

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')d.^ Uv? UX J 1 1 IVVtO/2'C .

^Oy^ liucb I nc I U

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 167

NUN, NOVICE, ABBESS. These are unsuited to
fancy costumes, but are sometimes adopted, and are usually-
carried out as follows : — The Novice, a white dress, such as
veritable Novices do not much affect ; viz., a long white
muslin gown and a muslin veil attached to the back of the head,
beneath a small wreath of white roses ; a chatelaine of white
beads at the waist. Nuns and Abbesses at balls adopt
flowing dresses, a knotted belt, a rosary at the side, and
either a white or black head-dress. There is little attempt at
consistency ; the sleeves are sometimes lined with black silk ;
the head-dress made of crepe lisse, with a flowing black gauze
veil. The robe of the Dominican and Augustine Nuns
is white, with a loose oblong piece depending in front, as
well as back ; the head-dress is black lined with white, square
over the face where it turns up with white, and reaches below
the shoulders, a sort of linen cape half covering the body,
forming part of it. A long black cloak is also worn. The
Benedictines and Ursulines have white Hnen hoods and
capes, forehead bound with white linen with variations.

NURSE. Embroidered muslin cap with ribbons and
round crown ; striped gingham gown made with high bodice ;
striped stockings ; peau de Suede shoes. (See Geneva Sister
and Illustration IX., Fig. 33.)

NURSERY RHYME. Pointed black hat with the
names of Jack and Jill or any other nursery heroes or heroines
round ; black silk stockings, high-heeled shoes, a crutched
stick ; dress full, with short skirt of plum-coloured silk and
plenty of white frilling beneath ; round it, effigies of see-saw,
a cat and fiddle, sheep, dogs, or anything associated with
nursery lore ; bodice of blue velvet cut as a low square with
muslin fichu, skipping rope round the waist.

NURSERY RHYMES. The characters from these
are the fashion for children's fancy dresses, and for the Singing
Quadrilles : the principal characters are Jill {see J), My
Pretty Maid (see M), Bo-Peep (see B), Mary, Mary,
quite Contrary (see M), Red Riding Hood (see R),
Mother Hubbard (see H), Cinderella (see C), ^A?^hite
Cat (see W), Babes in the Wood, and Beauty (see B),

NUT-BROWN MAID. Dress of cream-coloured
nun's veiling, looped and puffed in old English style ; knots

l68 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

of plush satin ribbon ; pointed bodice of pink brocade
trimmed with blackberries ; Leghorn hat with nuts, black-
berries, and loops of ribbon.

NYMPH {See Water Nymphs). Dress of silver
cloth with coral epaulettes, and silver coronet in the hair ;
seaweeds and grass introduced on the skirt and low bodice.

OARSA?V'OMAN. Crimson flannel short skirt trimmed
with bands of velvet ; brown tunic, caught up high on hips ;
blue bodice, with revers, and blue and white striped waist-
coat, elbow-sleeves, white plaiting round; straw hat, with
poppies at side ; black mittens ; black shoes, blue stockings ;
oar in hand.

OCTOBER. This is generally rendered after the manner
of autumn with trimmings of leaves variegated with all the
rich reds and browns of the autumn tints. A classic cream
dress would show such trimmings to advantage. Or, an
evening dress of cream and gold satin introducing acorns, with
the leaves applied to dress and head-dress.

ODALISQUE. Embroidered slippers ; red silk trousers ;
short embroidered skirt ; scarf of many colours, tied round
hips ; black corselet bodice, embroidered in pearls, half high,
white and gold ; chemisette with sleeves, buttoned to elbow,
silver pendants ; cap of silk, with crescent and aigrette ;
plenty of amber beads and ornaments ; feather fan in hand.

OLD FASHIONED GIRL, Long full skirt of soft
muslin or wool, short waist; low bodice made full, short
sleeve with just one puff; sash round waist ; cap of white
muslin, plaited round the edge, cut up the back ; a bow of
ribbon in front.

OLD ^WOMAN WHO LIVED IN A SHOE.

(See Hubbard and Shoe.)

OLD WOMAN WHO SWEPT THE SKY. Red

cloak ; witch's hat ; broom in hand ; high pointed bodice with
ruff and bunched up chintz skirt.

OLD ENGLISH DRESSES suitable for bazaars and
other occasions consist of sateen or quilted petticoats ;
cretonne overskirts and bodices, laced in front ; muslin fichus,
aprons, and caps. (See also Watteau, Poudre, &c.)

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 69

OLDEN TIME, LADY OF. A favourite character
at Fancy Balls, generally carried out hydi poudre costume, or as
follows : Quilted satin petticoat ; brocaded tunic pinned
together at the back ; a low velvet bodice laced across a white
stomacher ; muslin kerchief about the neck ; hood and wim-
ple on the head. Of poiidre dresses of the olden time the
following are examples : Blue and white flowered tunic, over
long cerise skirt ; stomacher and low bodice trimmed with
blue and cerise, lawn ruffles ; powdered hair over cushion, with
roses, convolvuluses, and pearls. Or, a quilted skirt touching
the ground, chintz sacque {see Watteau); square bodice,
with straight-cut pointed stomacher ; sleeves to elbow with
puffs and ruffles ; muslin cap, or Dolly Varden hat with flowers.

OLIVETTE. Tunic of black and gold-spangled satin ;
over-skirt of blue satin ; black scarf, and pocket embroidered
in gold ; velvet bodice embroidered to match, with blue
stomacher of gold brocade; blue stockings, black shoes
and mittens ; gold sequin ornaments, or cloth of gold
trimmed with gold lace ; front of skirt coral silk ; large collar
lined with black velvet and edged with gold beads ; head-dress
and necklet gold filagree. Or white, as the Bride, satin skirt
embroidered with silver beads ; Zouave jacket and high collar;
small pointed cap with orange blossoms and feathers. {See
Batilde, Countess of.)

OLIVIA {Twelfth Night). Long over-dress bordered with
gold, having a distinct front breadth ; the bodice low square,
pointed at waist, v/ith close-set loops round the point ; jewelled
buttons fastening the bodice in front ; a basque at the back ;
a ruff comes from shoulder to shoulder, made of a plain
piece of muslin edged with pointed lace, not plaited; the slashed
sleeves have epaulettes and cuffs, and are puffed to the wrist ;
a jewelled coif is worn on the head ; the hair rolled off" the
face ; a veil floating at the back.

OLIVIA PRIMROSE. {See Wakefield Family and
Plate IX., Fig. 35.)

OLYMPIA. Satin dress, made with close-fitting low
bodice bordered with a broad band of embroidery, which goes
round the skirt; full sleeves to the wrist, with lace; costly
jewels.

170 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

OPHELIA {Hamlet). Long plain skirt of white cash-
mere, with a peplum tunic, one end caught up in the girdle,
thus forming a lap filled with poppies, corn, cornflowers, cat-
kins, pansies, forget-me-nots, and marguerites ; the bodice
low and full, with long pendent sleeves, the whole trimmed
with rows of silver braid and fringe ; the fair hair hangs over
the shoulders entwined with flowers ; a wreath on the head,
and lisse veil studded with flowers ; white satin shoes. It may
also be carried out in silver tissue or white silk ; long plain
brocaded silk bodice opening heart shape, sleeves tight to
wrist, puffed to elbow ; hair flowing, wreaths of flowers on
head, and side of dress caught up with girdle and puff'ed round
waist. As Ophelia, Miss Terry wore a costume of pale fraise
ecrase cashmere, bordered with ermine, cut in V-shape at
throat, and draped skirt. Second dress : White satin bodice,
studded with pearls; missal suspended from girdle, with string
of pearls.

ORACLE DES CHAMPS. (5(?^ Flowers.)

ORANGE GIRL. {See Neapolitan.)

ORANGES AND LEMONS. A fashionably made
tulle evening dress of light blue or two shades of yellow, with
branches of oranges upon it, a wreath of orange blossoms having
an orange at the side ; orange and lemon leaves round the
bodice. This offers an opportunity to a recent bride of wearing
her bridal wreath once more. Fan with oranges painted on it ;
basket of oranges and lemons in hand ; lemon-coloured shoes
and gloves. Another costume is : Dress of very pale blue
tulle, with satin bodice ; a row of orange leaves with a few
flowers for the sleeves and edging of the bodice, and arranged
about the skirt ; clusters of the fruit on the left of the low
bodice, the back of the right sleeve, about the skirt, and on
the hair ; the fan composed of leaves with a cluster of fruit,
and a fancy basket of the fruit on the arm ; the long lemon-
coloured gloves have the backs painted to match. Two sisters
might dress the character as follows : White satin dresses
over yellow ; powdered hair ; one trimmed with lemons and
foliage, the other with oranges ; the leaves may be arranged as
paniers, with clusters of fruit depending, the fruit forming a
cap, with the stalk upwards and leaves around ; large fan of
yellow gauze. Two shades of yellow are sometimes employed for
this dress, if the person represents the two fruits.

WflAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I71

ORCHARD. An evening dress of red tulle, or light pink
and white tulle, trimmed with apples and pears, fruit and
blossoms, walnuts and leaves, plums, &c.

ORCHARD, ENGLISH. Sacque of crimson brocade
trimmed with old point, and apples, plums, and pears, &c.

ORIENTAL LADY, EASTERN SULTANA,

EASTERN QUEEN, LIGHT OF THE HAREM,

&C. All these at Fancy Balls are rendered with loose silk
trousers to ankles ; a short satin skirt ; and a sort of paletot of
satin with pendent sleeves. The whole in bright colours, much
betrimmed with gold and sequins ; the hair in plaits ; a round
cap on the head. A jewelled aigrette in front. The following
costumes are effective : Eastern Sultana, or Light of
the Harem. Petticoat of white satin embroidered in
gold, gold and white trousers to ankles ; paletot of crimson
striped silk, embroidered in gold and lined with green silk ;
long sleeves, and white satin ones beneath ; Indian gold and
. W'hite scarf round the waist ; yellow pointed shoes ; white satin
cap embroidered in pearls ; gold jewelled coronet ; white
muslin veil. Eastern Dress. Yellow silk veil confined
by gold coins ; amber and claret skirt ; claret velvet paletot
trimmed with amber and much gold ; gold sequins and amber
beads for jewellery. Oriental Lady. Tunic of crimson
Dacca muslin ; trousers of white muslin spangled with gold ;
short crimson silk skirt, and jacket ; the stomacher covered
with pearls and jewels ; sash of cloth of gold ; turban of the
same entwined with crimson cashmere ; embroidered slippers ;
gold spangled veil.

ORLEANS, DUCHESS OF {temp. Louis XIV. and
Javies II.). A coloured satin petticoat made walking length,
embroidered. The bodice is a high square, stiff and narrow,
with high stomacher covered with jewels j the sleeves are
ample, and come to the elbow with ruffles ; a satin train of
contrasting colour, bordered with the same gathered flounce,
comes from the shoulder in box plaits ; the hair is curled, not
powdered, and over it is the coiffure a la Stemkirk, made with
tier upon tier of upstanding lace lappets, hanging at the back ;
shoes with very pointed toes ; long gloves; a fan in the hand.
(See Plate XIV., Fig. 56.) This style of dress is the one
adopted for James II. 's reign at Fancy Balls.

M

172 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED J OR,

ORPHAN GIRL {Soldiers' Borne, Hampstead). Red
.stuff skirt and bodice ; white muslin tippet, cap and apron
medal.

ORTRUDA (Lohengrin). First dress : white flowing skirt
trimmed with gold ; velvet over-dress trimmed with gold ;
with cuirass bodice, buttoned on hips ; jewels, crown, and veil.
Second dress : loose robe of velvet, square cut, long sleeves at
elbow^ ; silver grey scarf of cashmere about head.

OYSTERS, QUEEN OF. Dress of white tulle, studded
with oyster-shells, coral, and seaweed ; wreath of same round
the low bodice.

OYSTERWOMAN. {See Ecaillere.)

PACK OF CARDS. {See Cards. )

PAINTING. Red plush costume with w^hite satin tablier
painted in water-colours to represent small pictures, the plush
is draped with a palette ; the other side of the bodice is white
satin, with laurel leaves and small palette ; head-dress, a sort
of hat, formed with a palette and aigrette of brushes ; red silk
hose, black shoes. Or, classical robe of light drab cashmere,
low full bodice and belt, short sleeves cut in two Vandykes,
fastened with buttons on outside of arm ; long train from
shoulders lined with blue, palette and brush on one side ; a
crown of bay leaves on the head. {See Art).

PALETTE. {See Painting, and My Colour-box and
Palette.)

PALMYRA, QUEEN OF. Antique costume of blue
satin, trimmed with silver embroidery and ermine ; train of
sapphire velvet lined with blue satin, trimmed with ermine.

PAMELA. Richardson's heroine, as portrayed on the
walls of the Academy, w^ears a black dress, with elbow-sleeves,
and white cambric ruffles ; a cambric fichu crossed over the
front of the bodice, and fastened behind ; the hair turned up
under a small cambric mob cap, with black ribbons. At Fancy
Balls the dress is often looped over a quilted petticoat. The
novel was published in 1 741, so the dress is of the last century,
and by no means costly, for Pamela was of humble origin.
Black high-heeled shoes, silk stockings, and mittens complete
the costume.

PANSY. Short white dress trimmed with deep rich-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 73

coloured violet pansies, one large one forming the head-dress
the petals standing well round the head, like a brim ; the
bodice made of dark petunia velvet, arranged to simulate the
flower, the soft peach crepe de chine draped with pansies ; a
fan in the shape of a pansy. {See Plate X., Fig. 38.) Or, dress
of amber-coloured soft silk, trimmed with purple bands, outlined
with gold ; loops of purple and amber-coloured ribbons on the
top of the sleeves ; head-dress in the shape of the flower ; white
bibbed apron, embroidered in purple ; a gold basket of hearts-
ease carried. Or, dress of violet tulle and satin with profuse
trimmings of the flower ; wreath and shoes to correspond.
{See Flowers.)

PAON. {See Peacock.)

PAQUERETTE (Easter Daisy). Short upper skirt
of white tulle, green satin beneath, with large leaves ; gold
satin corselet ; large collar of the petals of the flower ; an
aureole of white flowers tipped with gold in hair.

PAQUITA {Girofle Girofla). Blue and white-striped
stockings, blue satin shoes, with high heels ; short skirt of blue
and white-striped silk, double skirt of white silk, cut in van-
dykes, bound with blue, and draped gracefully over the skirt.
The low bodice, as well as this upper skirt, is trimmed with
gold braid, and over the low bodice is a sleeveless senorita
jacket of blue cashmere, bound with gold, having a ball fringe
of gold ; the silk forms a puff for the short sleeve, with straps
of blue over it ; head-dress, a white muslin veil attached by a
bunch of roses.

PARR. {See Catherine.)

PARROT. A yellow gown with cuirass bodice and cap
of green feathers like a parrot's head, tv/o long feathers form-
ing the tail on the skirt ; the rest of the dress green satin, with
wings at the side formed of feathers.

PASQUINETTE. Bodice and sleeves made high ; half
red, half gold satin, with rosettes down the centre, a wide turn-
down frill at the throat, made of lace ; skirt of the same, inter-
blending with a pouf all round the waist ; one stocking red,
one gold, shoes also ; high gold-coloured hat with red spots,
and rosettes of the two colours mixed in coloured ribbons.

PATCHWORK. Short double skirt and low bodice a
la Vierge, of patchwork, cut in large diamonds, with alternate

M 2

174 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

black and yellow dividing the other colours ; the hair is
powdered, and pompons of ribbon of all colours are introduced
upon it, as also for the rosettes on the shoes. Or, dress made
of chintz patchwork ; muslin cap.

PATIENCE. Dairymaid costume, plain skirt; flowered
chintz tunic, bunched up over contrasting petticoat ; low
square bodice, laced in front, short sleeves ; muslin fichu
tucked into waist ; holland coloured apron ; large straw hat,
wreath of flowers under brim ; carries a water or milk-pail.
(See Plate X., Fig. 37.) {See Lady Jane.)

PAULINE {Lady of Lyons). In first scene, pink silk,
with a muslin frilled fichu, tied in front. Second dress, bridal
costume, in severe style of Empire. Third dress, muslin,,
with goffered flounce round skirt and top of bodice.

PEACE. A flowing dress of white tulle with loose low
bodice, and wing sleeves, trimmed with swansdown, blush
roses, lilies of the valley, and bands of silk embroidered with
olive-leaves ; a belt at the waist with pearls, intermixed with
the embroidery ; the tablier tunic is caught up with olive
leaves, and holds a couple of turtle-doves. In Paris this dress
had the tablier also embroidered with the sentence, " Paix aux
hommes de bonne volonte." Flowing veil and olive wreath
completes it. It has also been rendered as follows : Dress
of pale blue and silver brocade, trimmed with wheat-ears,
forget-me-nots, and fruit ; a bird's nest with eggs, and silver
wheat-ears in the hair ; an olive-branch carried in the hand.
A white satin banner may be borne, with the word '' Peace."

PEACOCK {Un Paon). A dark green or lemon-coloured
tulle dress, bordered with rows of peacock-eye feathers, headed
by gold twist ; bunches of the feathers are arranged on either
side, and bands of the feathers round the train, the skirt
draped with crepe ; the same bordering the low satin or plush
bodice, feather epaulettes ; the tail, like a large fan, takes
the place of a ruff" from behind the shoulders, and the head
and neck of the bird form a cap, from which a veil depends ;
gloves with gauntlets ; bands of peacock's feathers, necklace,
feathers mounted on lace; fan of peacock's feathers; dark green
stockings, green satin shoes with feather rosettes. Or, a dress

X.

S7.fai.

c?/. J-oivence',

38 . J OjnOAA^

59>Jc(.u>.&.

W.fuvdan

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 75

of black and peacock-green silk, arranged in alternate flounces,
the tail feathers spreading over the train ; cuirass bodice of
green silk, bordered with feathers ; helmet of green feathers.
By a simple contrivance the tail can be made to spread out
at will.

PEAR BLOSSOM. {See Apple Blossom.)

PEARL. Pearly grey evening dress of gauze over satin;
nautilus shell head-dress.

PEA, S'WEET. Four skirts of tulle; white and green
bodice and cap ; a bunch of the flowers in front of bodice.

PEASANT, THE COQUETTISH {La Belle Foule).
Short, striped blue and white skirt, and long jacket bodice,
fitting the figure to perfection. It has long sleeves, all trimmed
with bias bands, and is cut heart-shape, very open at the neck ;
a lace-edged fichu over, with a bunch of flowers in front ;
short draped tunic, and waistcoat of plain blue ; coquettish
straw hat, with blue ribbons. This is one of many charming
French costumes which require to be thoroughly well made :
blue stockings and high-heeled shoes with blue rosettes are
worn with it.

PEASANTS. {See the Various Countries.)

PECHEUSE DE CALVADOS. {See Fish Girls.)

PEDLER ( Woman). {See Gipsy.)

PEG WOFFINGTON {Masks and Faces). First dress :
Black sacque of figured brocade open at the sides, quite un-
trimmed, the bodice cut low back and front with a muslin lace-
edged fichu over it ; the dress skirt beneath of blue figured
gauze, and a large black hat trimmed with blue worn with it.
Second dress : A red and grey brocaded sacque, quite distinct
from the low pointed pink bodice and front breadth, the sacque
made very full and low at the back, with elbow sleeves ; a
round pink wreath accompanies this. Third dress : Brown and
maize satin similarly made, the brown sacque caught up on
either side of the skirt with large brown and maize rosettes.
Or, over-dress of green brocade, pink petticoat, elbow-sleeves,
mittens, and kerchief, the ends terminating at the waist and
cufl". Peg Woffington is generally represented with a flowered

176 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

skirt, caught back with coloured ribbons, showing a distinct
front breadth ; a square pointed bodice, and sometimes a lace
apron ; a large muslin fichu, edged with lace ; elbow-sleeves
and lace ruffles ; and either a lace cap or a straw hat pressed in
towards either side of the head and tied under the chin; mittens
on her hands. For outdoors, she wears either a hooded scarf
or a long mantle and hood. Mrs. Bancroft, as Peg Woffington,
wore (first dress) body and train of sea-green plush, the train
lined with paler green showing at the sides ; under-skirt of
neutral green with three flounces, each headed by puffings ;
the bodice came well down on the hips, was cut in tabs in
front and square at neck, with fichu of lawn and jet ; a blue
lace sacque fastened to the shoulders ; hat of sea-green
plush trimmed beneath the brim with rows of black and
white lace. Second dress : Low square dress of silver
brocade with high ruff at back and long train ; short sleeves
with large cuffs of gold-coloured satin, and three rows of soft
lace below ; under-skirt of gold tissue trimmed with Venetian
point, and bunches of buttercups and paste ornaments ; small
stomacher to match ; a garland of sunflowers across the skirt
relieved by bows and two long tassels of bullion on the bodice ;
a spangled fichu with gold fringe ; head-dress of cream
feathers and gold aigrette. Third dress : Two shades of red
and sacque of flowered crimson silk looped over a deep red
plush dress with train ; broad belt of scarlet round the waist
fastened by a diamond buckle to match the shoes ; hair raised
over a cushion with lace cap tied with black bow under chin,
flowers between hair and lace of the cap ; train, full ; sleeves^
short and tight with fall of lace over elbow. Peg Woffington,
in Smallfield's " Old Actors," wears an over-dress of green
brocade, pink petticoat, elbow sleeves, and mittens and kerchief,
the ends terminating at the waist. Mrs. Bernard Beere dressed
it with a curled wig, large hat, long trained princess dress with
tabs at the side of bodice ; large stick in hand.

PENELOPE ( Wife of Ulysses). Ancient Greek costume.
Long loose dress of white cashmere, trimmed with silver braid
in Greek designs, and bullion fringe ; over this is the chitonion,
a sort of jacket joined on the shoulders, plaited back
and front, and falling in points OU' either side, completely
covering the bodice, and hiding the waist ; it is bordered
with the same braiding, a silver tassel at each point ; the di-
ploidon, or flowing cloak, of cashmere, covered with silver
stars, is draped from the shoulders ; a silver fillet round

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 77

head, the hair in a coil at the back ; sandals ; gold and brown
combine well for this dress.

PEPYS, Mrs. Green satin dress, with pale pink front
of satin, bodice with square tabs at waist, ornamented with
pink bows, large pink slashed sleeves ; large linen collar edged
with point lace ; pink shoes ; hair in curls with strings of
pearls, pearl necklets and bracelets.

PERDITA {^Winter's Tale). Shepherdess dress, crook
carried in hand, entwined with blue ribbons and roses ; short
blue skirt with two festooned flounces of silver gauze caught up
with roses ; tunic of the same ; bodice low, and trimmed as a
stomacher ; wreath on head. Or, as worn by Miss Leclerc for
the character : A full white skirt coming just below the knees,
trimmed with a blue border of the Greek key pattern ; a full
low bodice with short sleeves, edged with the same ; a blue
ribbon girdle, white stockings, and blue shoes, laced across,
and rather high ; a wreath of wild flowers on the head, a
spray hanging loosely from one shoulder across the bosom,
and a crook with wild flowers carried in the hand.

PERI OF OCEAN. {See Water Nymph.)
PERICHOLE. Skirt of peacock blue; loose jacket of
black velvet trimmed with gold sequins ; Roman sash ; Indian
kerchief head-dress ; scarlet stockings j gold, silver, and amber
necklet and armlets.

PERRINE. Pointed shoes; full lace-edged trousers to
ankle ; lace bordered short skirt ; low bodice, short sleeves
scarf crossing bodice with ball fringe ; high hat.

PERSIAN. The women wear clinging draperies ; the
bodice, cut in one' with the skirt, fitting the figure closely, made
half high, the sleeves tight to the wrist, and armlets over them
above the elbow; jewelled girdles roujiid the waist; a sort of
coif on the head, with a gold -spangled veil of some soft fabric,
the hair loose or in plaits on the shoulders. Oriental-looking
satin or cashmere, bespangled with silver crescents and stars,
are most appropriate ; ornaments of coins and beads.

PERSIAN PRINCESS. Green satin skirt covered
with gold ; a black satin bodice and tunic bordered with gold ;
crepe lisse fichu beneath, and corselet of cloth of gold ; coif,
and gold-spangled veil ; scarf round waist.

PERTH, FAIR MAID OF. (^^^ F.)

178

OR,

PESCHARD, MADAME {La Branche cassee). Short
striped skirt, black and white; short blue cashmere tunic,
bunched up ; long embroidered yellow apron, with bib ; a
blue low square bodice over linen chemisette and loose sleeves,
terminating above elbow. The distinguishing point in this
costume is a large white cashmere hood worn on the head,
attached to the dress in front with roses, showing the hair, a
bunch of roses in front and at the side. A spade carried in
the hand.

PHAROAH'S DAUGHTER. Egyptian jewelled head-
dress ; loose white dress, short sleeves ; bodice cut half-high,
bordered with jewels, and gold rows of beads ; tiny bracelets ;
long over-robe of gold brocade.

PHILINE. ist Act: White skirt, blue satin bodice,
cut <?;z cosur ; coquettish blue hat turned up with roses. 2nd
Act : White brocaded gown dotted over with rosebuds
trimmed with Valenciennes. Last dress. Long black tulle
robe covered with gold stars, bodice of scarlet silk, fairy wand
in hand.

PHILIPPA OF HAINAULT. Blue velvet train
trimmed with ermine, fastened in front with jewelled clasps; ruby
velvet bodice with ermine carried down the front in a double
row; a girdle of precious stones round the hips ; the front of the
dress embroidered with the arms of the family, on gold and
silver tissue ; a veil hangs at the back ; a jewelled coronet on
the forehead, terminating in two large circles of gems about
the ears.

PHILIPPINA 'WELSER. Married 1550, when seven-
teen ; famed for beautiful complexion. Bodice of black
velvet, very high in throat, with linen ruff; sleeves filled in
high to shoulder, trimmed with fur ; handsome jewels round
neck ; plain skirt, embroidered in front ; hair turned off face,
set in jewelled coif and coronet.

PHCEBE {As You Like Lt). Shepherdess costume of
grey cashmere, with bunch of flowers on side of bodice ; ker-
chief, large full leg-of-mutton sleeves ; pointed Phrygian cap ;
leather shoes.

PHCEBE MAYFLOWER. Short skirt of satin,
tunic and bodice of chintz laced across the front ; muslin
sleeves to wrist ; apron, and becoming muslin cap with ribbons
to match the costume.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 79

PHOTOGRAPHY. A green silk dress trimmed with
tulle of the same shade; round the skirt, nestling in the bouillon-
nes a row of photographs ; a scarf of the silk draped across
the skirt, with medallion photographs at intervals, all bordered
with green galon ; the bertha of the low bodice fastened at the
front, back, and on the shoulders with them ; a cap in the
form of a lunette, with cartes-de-visite, and a long green
veil depending.

PHYLLIS. {See Iolanthe.)

PIGARDY PEASANT. Short red or blue skirt
bordered with gold or silver embroidered leaves ; white apron
trimmed with lace ; loose white chemisette bodice with em-
broidered Swiss velvet belt, having points upwards and
downwards, back and front ; black velvet braces, sleeves to
elbow; national cap, viz., upright shape of cardboard covered
with ribbon, with ruche of muslin next the face and on the
crown ; striped stockings. Or, short stuff gown, sleeveless
bodice ; white under-sleeves, linen cap.

PIE VOLEUSE. {See Magpie.)

PIERRETTE. Dress of black and white satin; the
back of skirt black, the bodice opens heart-shaped over a lace
chemisette, and a wide plaited frill stands out round the
throat ; another at the waist ; the bodice and front of skirt
white satin ; black skull cap surmounted by white hat with two
red feathers ; one black and one white stocking ; long white
gloves. Or, white satin dress trimmed with pale blue plush ;
chenille pompons sparkling with silver, white satin pointed
hat, or felt hat ; blue stockings, white shoes ; the dress made
in fashion described above. Or, dress of white Nun's veiling
trimmed in same fashion, with heliotrope watered silk. For a
little child the character is often represented with full pink
silk knickerbockers, a double skirt of white surah, with blouse
to match, fastened diagonally with pompons, same on sleeves ;
ruff round throat ; pointed felt hat with rows of pink velvet
round, each fastened with a pompon. Or, by a kilted frock of
pale blue sateen with scarf to match ; jacket of white cashmere,
Avith blue chenille pompons and ribbon loops ; white felt hat
with blue ribbons ; plaited cambric frill. Another rendering
of Pierrette is a white satin gown worked in pearls ; bodice
with thick plaitings at the waist ; long pendent sleeves, ruff at
throat ; round white cap, with two white pompons at the side.

l8o FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

PIEDMONTESE PEASANT. (6-^^ Bettina.)

PIGEON. (See Carrier.)

PILGRIM. Brown woollen habit reaching to the feet,
a cord round the waist, sleeves to wrist ; cape, and hood j
cockle-shells on cape and on broad-brimmed low-crowned hat ;
staff surmounted with cross or gourd ; sandalled shoon.

PILLAR POST. Long red satin dress ; white waistcoat
with placard bearing hours of collection printed on it ; head-
dress, square cap, the same form as top of letter-box. (See
PlateXV., Fig, 57.)

PINAFORE, H.M.S. Josephine and Hebe wear
fashionable morning dresses ; the Sisters, Cousins, and Aunts
appear in yachting dresses with striped cotton skirts ; serge
blouses, sailor collars, tarpaulin sailor hats. Little Buttercup
in an old-fashioned straw bonnet, cotton gown, and black and
red shawl pinned across her shoulders. (See B.)

PIRATES OF PENZANCE. The daughters of
Major-General Stanley appear in costumes of bright colouring,
made in the fashion of fifty years ago — short flounced skirts,
short-waisted bodices with muslin fichus, short sleeves, long
mittens coming well above the elbow, reticules hung from the
arm, and either poke bonnets or very large hats, with a bunch
of roses clustered on one side. This carried out in white
satin, pink roses, bright heliotrope or claret, would be effective
and picturesque. (See Appendix.)

PLANETS. White satin short skirt, bordered with a blue
silk band and dotted with silver stars ; white gauze over-skirt and
plaited low bodice bespangled with stars ; long wing-like sleeves
to match ; blue satin Swiss belt cut in points, a star on each ;
blue coronet with stars ; long veil with stars ; necklace and
bracelets of the same.

PLAYING CARDS. (See Cards, and Queens of
different suits.)

PLENTY, GODDESS OF. Fashionable white silk
evening dress with wreaths of vine-leaves, wild flowers, and
fruit ; the same in the hair. Or, a classical dress of cashmere
trimmed with the same. (See Greek.)

POCAHONTAS. Crimson velvet dress; bright
coloured scarf to match ; skirt and bodice covered with beads,
coins, and bangles of glass and brass ; hair in two long plaits

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. l8l

falling on each shoulder ; beads strung as thickly as possible
round neck ; long bead earrings ; richly embroidered leggings,
Indian work of porcupine quills.

POLAR STAR. {See Star.)

POLICHINELLE. White satin short skirt, striped with
crimson, trimmed with gold ; tunic half blue, half white, form-
ing two ends at the back, bordered with gold fringe and bells,
and entirely covered with gold spangles ; low bodice of red
and white, with basque, trimmed with gold fringe and bells ; a
blue and white cocked-hat over powdered hair ; a fool's bauble
carried in the hand. {See Plate IX., Fig. 36.) Or, as follows : —
Three skirts of alternate black satin and gold tissue, cut in
points, a bell at each, surrounded by gold fringe ; high bodice
of black satin, with a gold diamond-shaped plastron ; hair
floating on the shoulders, surmounted by a cap, and bells of
gold tissue ; Punchinelle carried in the hand, viz., a small
doll dressed in the same way. Or, short white skirt, low cut
bodice, striped, bordered with gold ; double-cornered cap of
blue and red j powdered hair ; blue and white scarf of satin
round hips.

POLISH PEASANT at a Fancy Ball is very unlike the
veritable peasant ; the correct dress would be a striped woollen
skirt ; a scarlet bodice laced in front, and trimmed with yellow,
over a high white chemisette, with long sleeves; and for a bride,
a cap with as many ends of ribbon of all colours and widths
as can be procured, replaced on less gala occasions by a cotton
handkerchief folded first cornerwise, then the double-edge
folded back twice, about 3 inches broad, and tied behind ; a
flower stuck at the side. A fancy dress Polish costume is as
follows : A plain blue short dress, trimmed with minever ; a
yellow bodice with tight sleeves like a habit-bodice, with Bran-
denbourgs in black across the front ; the Polish cap. edged
with minever. This cap is a distinctive feature of the cos-
tume ; it is square at the top, and hard and stiff, the four sides
diminishing in size where they rest on the head ; the hair
should hang in long plaits beneath it. Another style is a pink
satin short skirt, bordered with swansdown, a polonaise over
it, viz., a bodice and tunic in one, the latter bordered with
swansdown and opening in front, the bodice cut to throat or
square, and also trimmed with swansdown and heavily braided
with silver ; the sleeves close-fitting to the wrist, also braided ;

l82 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

high, rose satin boots, bordered with swansdown; Polish
cap of rose satin. {See Plate X., Fig. 39.) Polish Princess,
Short skirt of white satin trimmed with gold braid, over-skirt of
red satin trimmed with gold and swansdown ; low jacket bodice
and hanging sleeves of black velvet trimmed to match ; the
bodice, open in front, is filled in with gold braid ; black velvet
Polish cap, with gold braid and swansdown ; white satin boots
with black stripes. Polish Snow. White silk bodice and
short skirt cut in one, bordered with swansdown, and covered
with tufts of swansdown ; Polish cap. Polish Skating
Dress of pale blue and crimson plush ; gold lace trimmed
with grebe fur. Polish Hussar {see Hussar). Lady
Colonel of Polish Regiment. Ecru petticoat, trimmed
with blue and gold; blue bodice, trimmed with gold and
silver ; crimson cloak, with black fur and gold ; cap to
match ; high blue boots trimmed with black fur and gold.
Polish national dress, as worn near Cracow : Head-dress
called Konfederatka, made of red or blue velvet, rim of fur,
with gold or silver ornaments at the side, flat crown ; sleeve-
less bodice of same material and colour as the cap, trimmed
with gold, or silver, or fur, fastened in front under white
bodice gathered to the throat ; lace edged sleeves, with bow
of ribbon ; skirt of coloured chintz, with band of velvet ;
linen apron embroidered with a band of cross-stitch ; boots.

POLYPHEMUS, H.M.S. Grey dress with badge of
the ship in gold letters on bodice ; wooden ornaments of
torpedoes on one shoulder and in hair. This is suitable for
nautical ball.

POLLY PUT THE KETTLE ON. Rose-coloured
skirt to the ankles ; flowered tunic, with rose bodice trimmed
with white muslin, rose and green ribbon; cap to match; silver
kettle earrings ; a kettle hung at the side, with a kettle-holder
worked with the name of the costume, and surmounted by
grey poppies ; black mittens ; muslin apron, or chintz sacque ;
muslin kerchief and cap.

POMONA. Either a classic dress with fruit in the hand,
or a white evening dress looped up with fruit ; fruit on head ;
a basket of fruit in hand.

POMPADOUR, MADAME, 1744. The beautiful,
graceful, talented mistress of Louis XV. ; her name calls up
visions of powder, brocade, ribbons and laces, ruffles, plumes,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALI.S. 1 83

long-pointed waists, and rich embroidery. A pretty costume
of hers is as follows : Long embroidered skirt of white satin,
with pink rosebuds and silver leaves ; tunic of pink brocade ;
long-waisted, pointed bodice, open in front, laced across,
with a stiff and narrow stomacher ; sleeves to elbow, termi-
nating in ruffles. Sometimes the upper skirt is open, and
forms a train over a lower one, covered with embroidery.
Silk, satin, and brocade are suitable. Pink and blue are
the mixture with which she is most associated, but the
following combinations may be employed : Black and pink^
blue and cerise, violet and blue, white and blue, maize and
white, grey and rose-colour. The hair should be dressed high
over the forehead in numerous small curls, like a pouf a la
neige, and be ornamented with feathers, pearls, and roses. Or,
skirt of apple-green satin, trimmed with mother-o'-pearl
embroidery ; bunches of large roses fastened on the right side j
the waistcoat, green satin ; the bodice and paniers, flowered
moire ; the low neck surrounded by a row of large pearls, below
which a pearl fringe ; a chaplet of roses on the powdered hair.

POMPEIAN LADY. White llama skirt, with Grecian
border worked in purple ; purple chitonian joined on the shoul-
ders, plaited back and front, and falling in points on either
side (^^^ Ancient Greek Dress, and Penelope), and trimmed
with gold lace ; hair bound with a fillet ; handsome Etruscan
ornaments.

POPPY. Short skirt of blue satinette, upright poppies
and small buds worked from the hem upwards ; bodice and
upper skirt of red crepe, cut out like a large poppy, with waist-
band of greenish grey to represent head ; large poppy on the
head ; small poppies for ornaments ; long gloves, a poppy
worked on each. Sometimes it is rendered with red tulle and
huge poppies, a poppy for cap. Or, dress of red tulle, with the
tunic of crimped surah, in imitation of a full-grown flower ;
short bodice, pointed back and front, of dark green ; red tulle
above, and edge of poppies and leaves ; a single large poppy
as a cap on the hair, another for the circular fan, and small
poppies for ornaments ; either long red silk gloves, or the dark
green of the bodice in kid painted with poppies up the back.

PORTIA {Merchant of Venice) wears either a black bro-
caded over-dress like a barrister's black robe, and wig and bands,
or a loose black silk under-robe with scarf about the waist,
having tight sleeves ; a loose over-robe of black brocade, the

^84 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

collar slightly pointed and standing up, the arms thrust through
a wide aperture ; robe open in front ; round biretta-like cap
of silk, such as Miss Ellen Terry wore in the trial scene. Or,
a train and square-cut bodice of white or coloured satin, over
a gold embroidered petticoat, a gold embroidered pouch
hanging at the side ; velvet tiara trimmed with pearls, or a
white satin pointed coif trimmed with gold, the hair frizzed
and turned off the face, and hanging over the shoulders in
curls ; a girdle is worn round the waist, a feather fan carried
in the hand ; the sleeves are large and hanging, worn over
under-sleeves puffed from shoulder to wrist. Miss E. Terry's
first dress in this character was a gold-coloured brocaded
skirt, flowing, and held up on one side to show an embroidered
petticoat ; pointed bodice outlined with jewels, low at neck,
with ruff from shoulder ; sleeves one puff to elbow and tight
to wrist, laced outside. Her last dress was a pink satin
petticoat, dress of ruby brocaded velvet on pink ground, a
pink veil secured on either shoulder by a jewel. Or, ist dress,
open skirt, pale pink Levantine, shot with white ; under-skirt of
pale blue satin, brocaded with silver ; sleeves copied from
Titian and Paul Veronese ; pointed, square-cut bodice, white
muslin round each, wide sleeves ; 2nd dress, a doctor's gown,
with velvet hat ; 3rd dress, made like first, ample skirt, gathered
down the front ; bodice of white satin, point lace ruff, and
pink velvet hat, white feather.

PORTUGUESE. Short dark skirts of green or claret ;
low waistcoat of velvet to match, buttoning down the front
with a double row of bright gold buttons ; scarf and pocket of
velvet going round the hips ; a habit-shirt of muslin about the
neck, over this a red and yellow handkerchief tucked into the
bodice, and bound on the upper edge with red ; large slouch
felt hat, red or green to match the dress ; a half-handkerchief
pinned to the back to keep off the sun. A more usual fancy
dress is a red cashmere skirt trimmed with a deep band of
black velvet, grey embroidered over-skirt caught up on either
side of the front breadths with a band and bow of black
velvet; white silk apron trimmed with embroidered bands
and gold ; a coloured silk handkerchief about the head ; gold
Portuguese earrings and necklet. Portuguese Orange-Girl
would be the same costume, but a basket of oranges must be
carried.

PORTUGUESE GITANA. Short white satin skirt,

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 85

with alternate stripes of scarlet and gold ; scarlet satin low
bodice, laced and trimmed with gold ; a black gauze scarf,
the ends fringed with gold, and embroidered in red, tied round
the head ; gold chains from short sleeves to wrist ; white satin
boots laced with gold ; gold ornaments.

POSTAGE, POST-OFFICE (See Press). Short white
satin dress and high bodice ; on the skirt the different rates of
postage, times of posting, names of several mails ; flowers for
the hair made of various postage stamps ; scarves of different
colours on the dress, denoting the names of mail-bags ;
enamelled postage- stamps for jewellery. Or, dress composed
of newspaper headings, and trimmed with postage stamps round
the skirt, red intersected with twopenny blue stamps ; the same
on the bodice.

POSTILLION, LE. Costume of white satin, ornamented
with a military braiding in gold passementerie ; epaulettes and
cap arranged to correspond ; the hair powdered and tied at
the back with black ribbons ; this would look equally well in
pale blue satin, ornamented with silver.

POSTMASTER (LADY). Short white satin kilted skirt ;
red cloth or satin coat, white satin waistcoat ; cocked hat ;
high black boots ; satchel of letters carried at side. Or,
French naval officer's cap, with peak bordered gilt braid ;
short red satin skirt trimmed with gold ; black satin jacket
with lappels over satin ; waistcoat trimmed with gold.

POT-AU-FEU. White satin dress strung with all kinds
of vegetables ; black velvet bodice to simulate a saucepan,
handles form the epaulettes to the sleeves ; head-dress like the
lid of saucepan.

POUDRE COSTUMES. Powder was adopted pretty
well throughout the XVIIIth century by the upper classes in
England and France, so that with any costume of that time, not
worn by the lower orders, powder is admissible. It was the
powder-tax imposed by Mr. Pitt in 1795 that sent it out of fashion
in England. The following are some pretty poudre costumes :
Short blue satin skirt, a Watteau tunic of old brocade, the
Watteau plait double, and attached to the bodice only at the
neck ; the bodice itself pointed, a muslin fichu bordering the
square-cut neck ; the sleeves to elbow finished off with ruffles ;
on one side of the powdered hair, a black velvet hat,
the brim turned up, and edged with pearls ; a bunch of

I 86 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

roses under the brim. Or, for My Lady Coquette, a scarlet
satin petticoat ; tunic of blue and white striped satin, with
flowers between the stripes ; scarlet ribbon and white feathers
worn in the hair ; Pompadour necklace of red roses and blue
ribbon. And, lastly, one suitable for an elderly lady : Black
cretonne sacque, with a large design upon it, in gold and
feuille-morte ; elbow-sleeves and deep ruffles, with robings of
pale-coloured ruches, opening over a black quilted petticoat ;
old lace and diamonds; the hair powdered. A white silk
petticoat with three rows of lace across the front, headed by a
plaiting of blue satin and bunches of pink roses ; blue satin
train trimmed round with lace and pink rosebuds ; and bows of
blue satin ribbon ; the bodice cut heart-shape, displaying a
low white silk stomacher, with the same ruches of blue satin
ribbon and pink roses, a wreath of pink roses worn on one
side of the powdered cushion. For Poudre Balls, ladies
sometimes wear powder with evening dress ; the gentlemen,
white waistcoats.

PO^WDER-PUFF. Short waisted bodice; skirt put in
with full gathers, made of white, pink, or blu'e sateen ; the
skirt should look as much like the upper part of a puff as
possible, and be drawn in just above where is the swansdown ;
shoes, long gloves, sleeves, and bodice are all trimmed to
match ; earrings and necklace, small pocket puffs ; circular fan
made like a puff; cap of white sateen like the top of puff. Or,
white tulle evening dress, short, trimmed with swansdown ; cap
like the coloured red top of a puff.

PRECIOSA. Double skirt of pale blue silk, the lower
embroidered in silver, with pendant silver coins, the upper one
covered with a .network of silver braid, coins, and tassels ;
low pointed bodice over waistcoat of silver lace ; Roman
sash round the waist, with dagger ; a tambourine hung at the
side ; pale blue stockings ; black shoes, with satin embroidery ;
necklets and armlets of chains and sequins ; a blue hand-
kerchief on the head covered with sequins. It may also be
rendered with a white cashmere short skirt bordered with the
Greek pattern in gold and sequins ; scarlet cashmere over-
skirt, low velvet bodice and Roman scarf, and a scarlet hand-
kerchief on the hair. The dagger, &c. in gold.

PRECIOSILLA (La Forza del Destina, Verdi). Short
blue skirt with black border, embroidered in silver and
gold stars, vandyked at edge ; yellow over-skirt, bordered with

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 87

gold fringe ; light blue bodice with gold buttons ; short puffed
sleeves ; senorita jacket, black velvet, trimmed with braid and
fringe ; sash of grenat silk with gold fringe ; red velvet cap,
bordered with gold cord.

PRESS, OR NE"WSPAPERS. This is carried out
entirely in newspaper ; the skirt consists of box-plaited illustra-
tions from the papers, coming to the waist, with portraits and
names of newspapers pasted across here and there ; the bodice
with bertha to match, and bows of scarlet velvet ; quill pens,
an ink-bottle, and sealing-wax stuck in the hair. It has a
much better effect than would appear, and has been a favourite
dress at Fancy Balls. In Paris the same idea was carried
out with a white satin dress, having bands of velvet, bearing
the words "Discretion," "Indiscretion," and the names of
Paris papers; a bonnet de police on the head ; a bag a potence
at the side. Postage-stamps sometimes form a trimming on
the skirt, and it is then occasionally called " Postage."

PRIESTESS OF FOLLY. {See Folly.)

PRIMROSE FAMILY, {See Wakefield, Vicar of.)

PRIMROSE, FIRST. Evening dress of pale green
tulle ; satin bodice of primrose colour, bordered with moss
and primroses ; wreath of primroses and grass falling over the
hair at the back ; small primroses mixed with lace round neck
and wrist ; green satin shoes, with tufts of moss and primroses
on instep ; primrose-coloured gloves, edged with moss ; fan of
primrose satin.

PRIMROSE FLOWERS. Bodice of green plush
cut in a point, and filled in with kerchief of primrose gauze,
fastened with bunches of the flower ; sleeves to match j skirt of
primrose llama or crepe de Chine with a surah scarf Wreath
of primroses, or cap in form of primrose, stalk at top ; primrose
gloves and fan.

PRIMROSE LEAGUE, DAME OF. Gown of
light primrose tulle, the words, " Peace with Honour " in
violets, and monogram of league united, " P. L.," on one side ;
badge of league on bodice, and as many primroses as
possible ; primrose gloves ; fan, painted primroses.

PRIMULA, EyENING. Mauve dress, trimmed with
primulas.

l88 FANCY DRESS DESCRIBED; OR,

PRINCESS {Characters from Tennyson's Poem). {See
also Ida.) The Princess Ida, a classical white robe
trimmed with gold. Lady Psyche, black velvet hood and
tunic over pink skirt. Lady Blanche in the same, with
grey hair and a crimson brocaded silk skirt. Melissa, green
tarlatan dress and veil.

PRINCESS IN "FORTY THIEVES." Short
white satin skirt, embroidered all over in white jet and pearls,
cut in tabs at the edge ; between each tab appears a frill of
white lace ; a scarf of twisted satin, blue and red, tied over
the hips, from beneath it large tabs of brown satin embroidered
with brown beads ; white satin cuirass body, made very long,
powdered all over with deep red jewels ; sky blue and deep red
satin scarf tied under the arms ; the same round the head ;
ornaments, diamonds and jewelled flies.

PRINCESSE DE CONDE. Long white satin robe,
trimmed with the same material round the skirt, the front
entirely covered with white jet embroidery, and numberless
small tassels of the same ; body cut in a low square in front ;
very high ruff, edged with pearls and pearl chains from the
points all round the back of the dress ; very short sleeves, with
falls of lace hanging over the arms, and pearl fringes ; hair
powdered, and dressed in small curls all over the head ;
magnificent diamonds mixed in the hair, round the neck, and
on the front of the dress.

PRISCILLA, THE PURITAN MAIDEN {Miles
Staiidish). Short black or light grey stuff gown, made in the
old style, with tippet, cuffs, apron, and mob-cap of clear white
muslin ; the over-skirt, which is tucked under, is the same as
the skirt ; black stockings and shoes, with small buckles ; the
bodice is quite plain, save the tippet, but it has an all-round
untrimmed basque. Or, after Elmore, red striped skirt, green-
coloured kirtle and bodice ; long sleeves ; bodice low ; sleeves
turned back with Hnen ; Puritan cap ; linen tippet.

PSYCHE. Loose white dress; low full bodice and belt;
silver wings ; hair in classic coil.

PULCHINELLE, PUNCHINELLA. {See Poli-
CHiNELLE, Plate IX., Fig. 36.)

PURITAN {as worn in the quadrille at Marlborough
House). Long grey satin dress, with three rows of black velvet;

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS.

round, black velvet, silver-mounted bag hanging at the side.
The bodices were made with square basques at the back, and
cross-cut full sleeves to wrist. Muslin tippets, pointed back
and front, were fastened with black velvet bows ; white muslin
caps trimmed with lace. Another Puritan costume would be a
black velvet, or grey or black satin, or stuff dress, with plain skirt
to ankle; plain bodice, cut V-shape, with a neatly folded muslin
kerchief, plain elbow-sleeves, long muslin apron; square-toed
shoes, tied with ribbon, high heels ; muslin cap, high-crowned,
with plain front. {See Rose Standish, and Plate X., Fig. 40.)

PUSSY. (See White Cat.)

PY RENE AN PEASANT. Scarlet short petticoat, blue
skirt, looped up with scarlet and gold ; black velvet bodice,
trimmed with gold lace ; scarlet cap.

QUADRILLE. (See Introduction.)

QUAKERESS. Grey satin dress, touching the ground ;
short-waisted high bodice, open at the throat, with leg-of-
mutton sleeves to wrist, and turn-back muslin cuffs ; a plain
hemmed muslin kerchief, neatly folded inside ; a bonnet of
the same satin as the dress, with a soft crown and stiff card-
board front ; a plaited cap beneath, or a fine cambric cap,
without the bonnet.

QUARTERS OF GLOBE. (See Europe, Asia,
Africa, America.)

QUEEN OF CYPRUS, (See Venetian.)

QUEEN OF FARIES. (See F.)

QUEEN OF MAY. (See May.)

QUEEN OF NIGHT. (See Night.)

QUEEN, NORTH AMERICAN. (See America.)

QUEEN OF THE REGIMENT. Cream satin
jacket with gold braid, crimson satin skirt, trimmed with gold
cord ; red and gold cap ; crimson sash, and dress sword.

QUEENS OF DIFFERENT CARDS. (See Cards.)

QUEENS, MARIES. (&^ Maries.)

QUICKSILVER. Fashionable black evening dress made
of tulle, and trimmed with silver.

n 2

190

RABBIT. White plush bodice bordered with a lace ruche
at neck and sleeves ; white satin skirt with rabbits' heads
painted or embroidered ; cap like a rabbit's head ; drum and
sticks carried in hand.

RACHEL THE GLEANER. (See Gleaner.)

RAINBOW^ {Arc-en-Ciel), IRIS. A white tulle evening
dress, with low bodice ; across it, from left shoulder and
under right arm, a tulle scarf of the colours of the rainbow,
viz., red, green, blue, pink, grey, violet, and orange, arranged
in folds ; a half circle of the same on the right side
of the dress ; a pompon of fringed silks of the colour worn
at the side of the hair ; the word " Rainbow " worked
in pearls on black velvet round the neck. Sometimes the
scarf tunic is composed of tulle of the rainbow shades,
bordered with silver, and is drawn in a pouf through a buckle
at the side, a veil of the several tints reaching to the
feet. Sometimes the dress is of pink, or grey tulle, or gauze,
spangled with crystal drops, with a scarf of the colours about
it, or a tunic spangled with silver ; the bodice pink ; silver
ornaments.

RAN E E. Narrow under- skirt of embroidered white muslin,
trimmed with gold lace ; tunic of cream-coloured silk, having
embossed figures in gold ; green satin bodice trimmed with gold
and jewels; crimson and gold-embroidered Delhi, native head-
dress with gauze veil, spangled with gold and silver; gold shoes,
necklace of rubies, emeralds, and diamonds ; massive gold
bracelets of Delhi, Nuggier, and Kutch work.

RATCATCHER. A French fancy costume for a child.
Short skirt and a double skirt cut in three wide battle-
ments ; a low square bodice with jacket basque of white satin,
bordered with grey fur ; boots to match ; a head-dress in the
semblance of a cat, with head ; a stick over one shoulder,
with three rats.

RAVEN. A black evening dress, with clerical muslin
band round neck ; cap made of bird's head.

READING. The same as Alphabet.

REAPER. White satin skirt, petticoat with red stripes,
green satin polonaise cut half-high, with puffed sleeves to
elbow, profusely trimmed with corn, oats, and poppies ; a green
satin cap with an aigrette of corn, a sickle at the side. Or, a

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I9I

dress of maize tulle, trimmed with tufts and fringes of wheat-
ears and cornflowers ; wreath of the same. {See Harvest.)
Or, skirt and corselet of meadow green cashmere ; shoulder
straps and lattice-work front of blue velvet ribbon ; cambric
under-bodice with yellow sleeves embroidered ; white silk
drapery ; scythe at side ; band of field flowers under the arm ;
fork over right shoulder; Leghorn hat and flowers. (See
Gleaner, and Illustrated Plate VI., Fig. 22.)

REBECCA {Ivanhoe). As worn by Lady Ernest Bruce
at the Queen's Fancy Ball in 1842. White satin skirt just
touching the ground ; green velvet embroidered pelisse, open
in front, showing stomacher ; sleeves large and pendent, with
close-fitting satin ones beneath ; knotted scarf of many colours
encircles the waist, a silk turban on head. Another handsome
rendering is as follows : Bodice, skirt, and sleeves of gold or
silver tissue ; mantle of prune velvet, lined with white satin,
trimmed with broad bands of ermine edged with gold galon ;
velvet and gold turban, with ostrich plumes and diamond
aigrette ; white satin shoes, brocaded in gold ; feather fan,
jewelled girdle, and parure of jewels. A veil spangled with
gold is generally worn.

RED CROSS NURSE. {See Geneva Sister.)

RED RIDING-HOOD. Short blue silk or cashmere
dress, with five rows of scarlet velvet round ; the bodice
sewn to skirt, low and full like a child's, with short sleeves and
lace tucker ; white muslin pinafore, edged with lace ; a
scarlet cloak, with full gathered hood, having a black velvet
bow in the centre ; the cloak is tied round the neck, and the
hood may or may not be worn on the head ; a blue ribbon in
the hair ; black silk stockings and shoes., with silver buckles ; a
basket of eggs carried in the hand. Or, blue silk quilted
skirt ; square velvet bodice, with lace chemisette and lace
sleeves ; large white muslin apron and bib, trimmed with two
rows of Valenciennes lace ; red cloak, with hood lined with
blue silk ; cornflower ornaments, and basket of cornflowers in
the hand ; blue silk stockings, worked with crimson ; a crimson
satin sash, and patent shoes. Or, the dress of the French Red
Riding-Hood, which is more picturesque. Small chaperon
hood and cape of red cashmere, worn with an over-skirt and
bodice of the same colour, the bodice cut square, with elbow-
sleeves, and laced in front over a white cambric stomacher with

192 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

scarlet ribbons ; the under-skirt grey, and short, showing
scarlet and white silk hose, and high-heeled shoes ; a large
round cake or galette, real or imitation, should be carried
under the arm, and in the hand a small basket, supposed to
contain the traditional pat of butter and eggs. (See Chaperon
Rouge, and Coloured Illustration, Plate XVI.)

RED, WHITE, AND BLUE. Short white skirt,
striped with red and blue ; or a plaited flounce of the alternate
colours, five to six inches deep ; tunic of the same, and
caught up with a silver anchor and knots of the two colours ;
or a silk Union Jack, draped as a tunic over the short skirt ;
low satin bodice trimmed with the colours, the bows fastened
by silver anchors ; sailor hat trimmed to match, or red silk
turban intertwisted with blue and white; white shoes, red
rosettes, and heels ; blue ribbon necklet and bracelets.

REPUBLIQUE FRANCAISE. Classical dress of
white or pale grey cashmere, trimmed with gold ; with a
long flowing skirt, loose low bodice, confined by oxidised silver
belt; hanging sleeves from shoulders; a tricolour scarf draped
from the right shoulder ; a Phrygian cap of scarlet cloth, with
" Liberte " worked in gold, and a tricolour cockade. Or, white
jacket bodice over tricolour striped skirt ; blood-red sash ;
red cap of Hberty; flag in hand, Liberte, Egalite, and
Fraternity, or sword in hand. Or, red cap with tricolour
rosette ; tricolour skirt and overskirt, looped up. Or, red
handkerchief knotted over chest one side ; white linen shirt,
sleeves rolled to elbow.

RENAISSANCE, DRESS OF. Robe of gold-coloured
silk over red petticoat, braided in gold ; satin senorita jacket ;
plastron of gold ; flat red velvet cap.

RESTORATION, FRENCH. {See Merveilleuse.)
At first, at this period, the Louis XVIth modes were revived ;
but in 1830, short dresses, gigot sleeves on whalebone frames,
capote hats, came into fashion.

REVOLUTION {French). Long dress of striped yellow
silk ; long skirted coat, a la Robespierre, of bottle-green silk,
short-waist, double-breasted, made with large lapels, cut steel
buttons, and narrow sleeves ; it opened at the neck, showing
cravat with lace ends ; pointed bottle-green felt hat, with yellow
cockade in front, worn over powdered hair. Or, pale pink and
green satin redingote, opening over muslin petticoat bouil-

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 93

lonne to waist. Incroyable, triple cape of green satin, just
reaching to the shoulders ; the hair dressed in marteaux in
front, and in a long plait at the back ; the conventional black
felt hat with tricolour cockade.

REYNOLDS, SIR JOSHUA {after). The usual ren-
dering of a costume after Sir Joshua Reynolds at Fancy Balls
is a white muslin dress, with tight sleeves, muslin fichu ;
powdered hair, a hat of coarse straw lined with blue, or a
plush hat tied under the chin with blue ribbons ; black em-
broidered shoes; a single row of diamonds or pearls round
the throat, a diamond brooch in the fichu. Sometimes the
dress is made with a deep-gathered flounce round the edge ;
it just touches the ground, and is always scanty. Sometimes
it has a falling collar, and nearly always a blue sash tied in a
bow at the back, and the hat is now and then replaced by a
mob cap. In a portrait of his, dated 1781, the dress is a
crimson petticoat, canary-coloured upper skirt, brocaded with
flowers and trimmed with lace ; powdered hair ; small crimson
hat and feather ; pearl ornaments. After his picture of Lady
Cadogan : White satin petticoat embroidered with gold ;
lemon-coloured satin train ; hair powdered ; white satin hat,
with plume of white and blue feathers ; pearl ornaments.
After his portrait of Mrs. Braddyl : Satin skirt and train ;
fulled under-bodice, with turn-down ruff; open stomacher;
elbow-sleeves ; hair in loose curls. After portrait of Duchess
of Gordon : Hair turned ofl" the face in three rolls, divided
by ribbon ; low curls on the neck ; bodice with scarf round
waist, open heart-shape, with stiff ruff; pearls round the neck
with portrait ; the sleeves made with epaulettes of horizontal
puffs, and open sleeves over a puff to the elbow ; train of satin.
For Children, copies from his pictures make admirable fancy
dresses. The girl in his " Rest by the Way " wears a red
short skirt, with a blue band round low bodice, and elbow-sleeves
turned back with white, a muslin kerchief inside the bodice ;
yellow apron, straw hat. In the Mask : High-heeled shoes
with blue bows; flowered short skirt ; brocaded tunic, bunched-
up ; square bodice and elbow-sleeves ; blue sash ; hair cut
square over forehead.

RHENISH PEASANT. Short plain clpth skirt and'
bodice laced in front, over white muslin chemisette, with full
straight sleeves reaching to wrist; a coloured silk handkerchief"
on the shoulders, the ends tucked in to the bodice ; hair

194 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

gathered in a knot at the back, worn with a close-fitting Hnen
cap, the strings tied under the chin ; shoes and buckles ; white
stockings, with coloured clocks.

RHEIMS, JACKDAW OF. Short white satin skirt,
plain in front with waterfall back, scallopped at the bottom,
edged with plaiting of blue satin, in each scallop a round
ornament of marabout with ring of turquoise beads in the
centre ; the upper part of skirt covered with festooned lattice
work of narrow gold braid, with turquoise beads at each
crossing, forming an apron, having a gold fringe and turquoise
tassels; above, a short panier of black satin bordered with
gold lace ; pointed and square cut bodice ; sleeves of black
marabout, trimmed with frill of gold lace; at the back of
bodice two tabs of marabout mounted on stiff wires, like
wings ; tail of black net and marabout to edge of skirt ;
streamers of black satin from each shoulder; turquoise
ornaments ; powdered hair ; head-dress of black feathers, like
head* of jackdaw, with turquoise ring in beak ; black stockings ;
satin shoes, and gloves ; blue fan, jackdaw's head in centre.

RICH AND RARE were the gems she wore. Dress of
soft green tulle, powdered with a variety of jewels ; gold
circlet over flowing hair ; staff, with ring at top ; a bunch of
shamrocks on the front of bodice.

RIDING-DRESS {period of Charles II.). The jacket is
made with a basque all round alike, almost as deep as an
upper skirt, open at the neck with revers edged by rows of
gold or silver braid ; the neck is hidden either by a simulated
waistcoat of the same material, or by a silk scarf tied once
round the neck, the ends laid one over another and pinned
down to the waist underneath ; this jacket is trimmed with
gold or silver braid in a treble row, laid a little from the edge ;
large square pockets are placed on the outside of the basque
in front, and trimmed to match, as also the mousquetaire cuffs
of the sleeves. It can be made in satin and velvet, and
is worn with a long trained skirt of the same, caught up on
one side over a satin petticoat. Sometimes the cuffs and
revers of jacket have the same coloured satin under the braid.
Large jacket and plume, riding-whip and gauntlet gloves com-
plete the costume ; large lace collar. Plum and gold is a
good admixture of colour. Riding-Dress (/^;;//. George I.).
Broad-brimmed satin or violet velvet hat, with large bows of

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 95

ribbon round the crown ; the hair powdered and frizzed at the
side, long curls at back ; violet velvet habit made with over-
hanging collar and cape^ such as the men of the period wore ;
it has buttons and frogs on the bodice ; the shoes have gold
buckles; old point-lace tie at neck.

RISING GENERATION, ONE OF. A fashionable
fancy costume of the moment worn by children and grown-up
people. A short, plain frock with a gathered flounce round; low,
full bodice with large sash tied at the back ; short sleeves in
one puff; black shoes buttoned round the ankle; hair in
long plaits. It is also rendered by reproductions of some
of Kate Greenaway's sketches of children.

RIVALS. {See Lydia Languish, and Mrs. Malaprop.)

ROAMING, I'VE BEEN. Plain full skirt of poppy red
Turkey twill, bordered with a deep band of pale blue ; square
cut bodice with elbow sleeves ; tunic of print or cretonne all in
one, gathered to bodice ; paniers caught back ; large muslin
apron and kerchief; elbow ruffles ; red stockings, black shoes
and buckles ; hair worn down the back ; large straw hat,
poppies and wild flowers, wreath round hat ; strings of small
flowers as necklet and bracelets ; palm-leaf fan, painted green,
covered with flowers.

ROBSART. {See Amy.)

ROCOCO. Ecru petticoat, with bands of black velvet ;
tunic and bodice of blue brocade, looped with black velvet
and roses; powdered hair; blue velvet hat; rococo ornaments.

ROMAN LADY. Long, soft, falling skirt ; under-bodice,
full and low, the short sleeve buttoned on the outside of
arm ; loose over-bodice, secured by brooches on shoulder,
belt round waist ; the lower all-round basque formed by fulness,
bordered with gold ; over-mantle swathed about figure ; hair
close to head in waves ; veil of woollen cloth ; tiara in flat
bands. The dress of course altered in various centuries.
Cesare Vitelli's drawings give an excellent idea of the varieties.

ROMAN PEASANT. (^^^ Italian.)

ROME. White satin skirt, bordered with red cashmere
and Grecian gold border ; upper-skirt cashmere, divided into
three edged with gold fringe ; front division embroidered in
gold, with the letters S. P. Q. R. ; side division has a Roman

196 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

Standard and eagle, embroidered in bullion, wreaths of bay
leaves, &c. ; back division, Grecian border in gold ; scarf of
cashmere and gold looped up on right shoulder with cameo,
and falling low down under left arm ; " Roma " on armlet ;
head-dress, tiara of diamonds, with "Roma" in seed pearls
on the front ; gold-spangled veil.

ROMOLA. Dress of cream-coloured satin, with long
hanging sleeves, embroidered in gold and pearls, and caught
up with gold girdle ; over-petticoat of same material ; lace veil
fastened with band of pearls ; antique Italian ornaments.

ROMNEY {after). White muslin dress; powdered
hair ; large black hat, lined with a colour, such as vieux rose
or blue.

ROSALIND {As You Like If). A dress of Etna brocaded
velvet, skirt made full and looped over satin skirt of the same
colour with gold braid ; heart-shaped bodice, sleeves puffed
with gold ; gold fillet on head. Second dress, as a boy in grey
doublet, trunk hose, soft velvet hat. Third dress, of white
cashmere, made loose and full, with belt on hips, pouch
attached; puffed sleeves. Or, a dun-coloured velvet dress
with crimson puffs, and bearing her boar-spear. Another
rendering of the character is a long grey velvet dress with a
waistcoat and sleeves slashed with white satin ; thick long
pearl girdle looped on side. As Ganymede, short tunic of
grey-green velvet bordered with dark fur ; short jacket ; long
cloak fastened on the shoulders, made of grey silk lined with
pale pink ; grey stockings and cap ; staff in hand. Or, high
leather boots above knee ; tights ; velvet trunk hose ; short
belted leather habit, puffed velvet sleeves, low cap. Or, in
full-skirted habit, with game-bag and staff.

ROSAMOND, FAIR. Loose green flowing robe high
to the throat, touching the ground ; confined at waist by
jewelled belt, richly embroidered ; tight sleeves ; pouch at side.

ROSE, COULEUR DE. All in rose colour, with a
pair of rose-coloured spectacles carried in hand. This dress
can be very prettily and becomingly carried out in satin, silk,
or tulle, according to the taste of the wearer. {See G.)

ROSE IN JUNE. Pink tulle skirt, covered with rose-
petals and leaves ; bodice of the same trimmed with garlands
and roses ; long tulle scarf fastened behind ; wreath and

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 1 97

ornaments of rosebuds, roses, and leaves. {See Couleur de
Rose and Flowers.)

ROSE, LA. Green under-skirt, pink tunic and bodice
trimmed with roses and pearls ; a crown of roses and tulle-
spangled veil.

ROSE MICHON (La Jolie Parfumeuse). High blue
boots ; pink short skirt, with box-plaited pink flounce round ;
blue tunic caught up at back, pink apron with two pockets, all
bordered with white muslin plaiting ; low square blue bodice
with plaitings a la vieille round it and the short sleeves, a pink
rose on one side ; a blue ribbon tied in bow round neck ; blue
rosette at side.

ROSE OF CASTILLE. A Spanish dress. Skirt oi
black lace over bright-coloured satin low bodice ; velvet
senorita jacket trimmed with gold fringe ; high comb ; black
lace mantilla ; black shoes with silk stockings ; Spanish fan.

ROSE OF LANCASTER. A dress made with quilted
satin petticoat, the front sewn with pearls ; gauze train fas-
tened with roses in red, after the same fashion as Rose of York.

ROSE OF SUMMER, LAST. Pink satin ball dress,
with low square bodice and elbow-sleeves ; pink tulle tunic
sprinkled with loose petals caught up with roses and green
leaves, a garland of the same on the dress, a few detached
petals below them as if they had fallen off ; roses in the hair.

ROSE OF YORK, in white. Skirt of white satin covered
with white roses and pearls ; train of white plush trimmed with
roses, having a Watteau plait at the back ; a pointed bodice
square cut at the neck ; high ruff, full puffed sleeves ; duchess
hat of white satin trimmed with ostrich feathers, roses, and
pearls.

ROSE STANDISH. Short stuff skirt"; long linen apron,
with band of embroidery ; high bodice, long sleeves and
epaulettes over a habit-shirt and collar, forming part of
apron ; black velvet coif, little cap beneath. (See Puritan
and Plate X., Fig. 40.)

ROSES, BASKET OF. The head-dress is a gilt
wicker basket filled with flowers ; the green satin corselet is
covered with cross-bars of gold braid ; white muslin skirt

198 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

over a pink slip, and bordered with roses ; embroidered silk
stockings.

ROSES, QUEEN OF. White tulle skirt with bouquets
of every coloured rose dispersed about it ; over-skirt powdered
with pink rose-leaves, also the veil, as if a shower of rose-leaves
had fallen on them ; a wreath of coloured roses ; earrings,
necklet, and bracelets formed of pink rosebuds.

ROSIERE. White muslin dress, made high and plain ; a
wreath of full-blown roses on the head, and a bouquet of the
same at the waist.

ROSIERE D'ISSY, LA. Short red woollen skirt ; a
linen apron, tied at the back ; a red woollen bodice, openmg
over an e'cru-coloured chemisette ; a red woollen fichu
fastened beneath the chignon, and a large straw hat, orna-
mented with poppies, and worn quite at the back of the head ;
blue stockings and plain shoes.

ROSIN A {Barbiere de Seville). Spanish dress of cerise
satin and black lace ; black velvet senorita jacket; black lace
mantilla.

ROSIN E (Heroine of Whyte Melville's novel, Rosine).
Striped cambric short skirt of bright colours ; square bodice
and elbow-sleeves ; muslin apron with bib and shoulder-straps,
the word *' Rosine " worked in red letters on the pockets and
corners of the apron ; muslin kerchief and mob cap ; silk
stockings ; black high-heeled shoes ; old silver ornaments.

ROUGE-ET-NOIR. Skirt, sleeves, and low bodice of
black and red striped satin, with dice embroidered on the
front ; sleeveless bodice, and diagonally draped tunic of red
crape or gauze, forming ends tied at the back, with a bow of
black lace and four small toy cards tied in with them ; these
same cards, alternately red and black, in a slanting position,
are laid round the edge of the tunic and bodice with a trim-
ming of black lace and gold braid and fringe ; a bow on the
shoulders with four cards tied together, the same in front of
bodice ; ornaments, enamel cards and dice ; on the head a
cornucopia-shaped cap, half-black, half-red, like that worn by
Folly, with an aigrette formed of a gilt hand holding cards,
or a pointed coronet. Or, French cashmere bodice, tunic,
and skirt ; head-dress and necklace trimmed with cards,
alternate black and red; gloves, stockings, and shoes one

XI.

41.^jIu6^i^u>''W/l|^.

T^.ilviAO/D/lanJ.

43. b e/itJAiia^JTla id'

4-4. Xodu ?)^a/x£e.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. I99

black, one red. Or, tight-fitting low bodice of red satin,
and a red skirt, with black lace ; round the edge of short
skirt, a plaited flounce with cards ; bodice and sleeves trimmed
to match, and a cap on the head of red and black satin
with a few cards on one side ; ornaments, gold, and a fan
composed of satin and cards ; black gloves, with bracelets
like serpents, and loops of red satin ; croupier's rake in hand,
with cards on left shoulder ; red fan. {See Coloured Illus-
tration of Monte Carlo, Plate XL)

ROULETTE. Short skirt of red and green cloth, with
all the numbers, insignias, and terms of the game, such as
" manque," printed in white ; bodice of red and black satin ;
powdered hair, with small roulette board on one side j a
croupier's rake suspended from the waist.

ROWENA, THE LADY {hmihoe). Scanty under-
dress touching the ground, with bodice of pale sea-green satin ;
over this a long-flowing cashmere robe reaching to the ground,
either white or crimson, having wide hanging elbow-sleeves, all
richly embroidered in gold ; a girdle about the waist, a gauze
scarf interwoven with gold threads fastened to the left shoulder;
the hair entwined with pearls, a gold circlet and gold-spangled
veil; gold chain with charm attached; gold bracelets and
armlets. Or, sea-green silk skirt, ornamented with pearls ;
robe of crimson cashmere, bordered with ermine; pearl
coronet, and crystal veil.

ROXANA. Dress of cloth of gold bordered with swans-
down, and lined with vert d'eau satin, over an under-dress of
Turkish red.

RUBENS' ^WIVES. Isabella Brant {first wife).
Skirt of white satin bordered with gold ; over-dress and bodice
of mauve velvet, high to the throat, the skirt embroidered all
round with gold cord and pearls ; sleeves to wrist with slash-
ings inside the arm and puffings beneath ; turn-back cuff of
lace ; very large ruff round the throat ; hair powdered, high-
pointed hat, jewelled band round the brim, widening at the
side and turned up. Helena Forman {secondwife). Yellow
and brown silk and violet velvet, the skirt of the velvet touch-
ing the ground ; the bodice a low square with square ruff, lace
edged ; the hair in curls ; the bodice, which has a broad
rounded point, has jewels in front on a yellow stomacher ;
the sleeves have an upper puff of violet, an elbow puff slashed

FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

with brown and yellow, puffs of yellow to wrist, with turn-back
cuffs ; the two colours are blended in the trimmings on the
skirt mixed with jewels ; a feather fan is carried in the hand ;
a large-brimmed, low-crowned hat, turned up on one side with
ostrich plumes and jewel. {See Plate XL, Fig. 41.)

RUSSIAN BARONESS. Rose-coloured satin skirt;
over it a white satin pelisse, with low bodice and long hanging
sleeves, bordered with ermine; cap of rose-colour, with jewelled
aigrette. This was worn by Baroness Brunnow at the Queen's
Fancy Ball.

RUSSIAN HUSSAR VIVANDIERE. Short blue
velvet skirt ; blue velvet polonaise, trimmed with satin ; hussar
jacket of blue velvet, trimmed with sable ; cap to correspond ;
silver ornaments ; high boots with sable tops.

RUSSIAN PEASANT. Short skirt, either of white
muslin trimmed with black velvet or red merino, with bands
of green or blue velvet, headed by gold braid ; a white che-
misette with long sleeves, sometimes a stay bodice of velvet
over this, or one coming to the throat crossed with bands of
the same, bordered with gold braid in such a way that they
pass over the shoulder to the waist in a V-shape back and
front, forming a square across the bust, and a band at waist ;
the Koshnick is the usual head-dress, like a Scotch cap, with
a broad velvet coronet in front dotted with gold coins and
swansdown; beads are worn round the neck; a large white
silk apron, trimmed with red and gold, almost hides the front
of the dress ; crimson stockings ; high-heeled black shoes. Or,
white cashmere dress, embroidered with gold and colours,
with silver diadem and ornaments. Or, long loose over-dress
with embroidered apron ; white muslin cap ; embroidered
sleeves in red and blue. {See Plate XL, Fig 42.) Or, scanty
blue satin skirt touching the ground, with two rows of gold ;
loose white satin jacket trimmed with gold lace ; open sleeves
not very wide to wrist, worked cross-stitch, red and blue;
same stomacher and apron; Koshnick head-dress. The peasant
costume worn in Southern or Little Russia consists of a many-
coloured woollen petticoat of peculiar shape; linen under-
skirt edged with coarse lace ; a linen blouse embroidered in
gay colours, chiefly blue and red ; head-dress, a broad circlet
of brocaded ribbon, with bows of variously coloured ribbon
falling at the back, and mingling with the thick pendent

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 20I

plaits ; embroidered red and white towel of curious design
hangs from the arm ; these are worn on certain feast days,
and can only be procured at the great fairs ; strings of
coloured beads and a gold cross and chain, or picture of St.
Nicholas, complete this costume.

RUSSIAN SKATER. Round fur-edged cap; ruby
velvet pelisse, edged with fur, opening en coeur at the neck,
two fur buttons at the back of waist ; petticoat of quilted grey
satin ; high boots edged with fur and bells ; ornaments silver ;
a muff carried in the hand ; silver skates attached to girdle.

RUTH, THE PIRATE MAID-OF-ALL-WORK

{Pirate of Fenzafice). This costume is suited to a dark
beauty ; a head-dress of red drapery and coins ; red and black
short skirt, with much gold trimming ; low black gold-bedizened
bodice, and gold armlets, with chain of sequins from the
shoulder to wrist.

SABRINA. White spangled tulle dress over light green
silvered tissue looped up with silver grass wreaths of aquatic
leaves, water-lilies, and coral ; head-dress, large water-lily leaf,
and silver-spotted tulle veil. The make of this and similar
dresses should approach, as nearly as is consistent with the
costume, to the prevailing style of evening dress.

SALLY IN OUR ALLEY. Plainly-madecotton dress,
with elbow-sleeves ; mittens ; muslin cap, fichu, and apron.

SALOME. Robe of salmon satin embroidered with
fantastic flowers, loosely-tied sash ; bodice square ; hair inter-
plaited, gauze veil and coronet of scarlet flowers. Or, yellow
and black draperies, lined with red ; head-dress, a kerchief
of black silk, embroidered and fringed, gold band with
faUing sequins round the head and passing beneath chin.

SALT WATER AND FRESH WATER. Suitable
dresses for two sisters ; both would wear green and white
evening dresses, with white tulle veils ; for salt water, trimmed
with coral, seaweeds, and shells ; the other with water-lilies
and grasses. {See Water-Nymph.)

SALTARELLA. Red satin flounced skirt, edged with
gold fringe ; pale blue satin drapery, trimmed with gold coins
and fringe ; tight fitting black satin basqued bodice, trimmed
with gold coins and fringe ; red satin cap, with gold net and
coins.

OR,

SAPPHIRE. Greek robe of pale blue satin, embroidered
at the hem with sapphires and blue steel beads ; zone and
necklet of imitation sapphires ; diamond-shaped sapphire on
head ; blue shoes and stockings ; no gloves ; blue diadem,
with sapphire at top.

SAPPHO. Greek tunic and flowing dress of white satin,
trimmed with Greek pattern in gold braid, bordered with gold
fringe ; mantle of sky-blue velvet, attached to shoulders,
trimmed with gold ; sandals ornamented with gold ; the hair
in close curls, gold head-dress of Grecian design ; gold armlets
and bracelets, connected by chains ; gold necklet of coins j a
lyre in the hand.

SARDINIAN PEASANT. Scarlet jacket, with silver
buttons and gold lace, over white linen chemisette, with open
sleeves ; a piece of scarlet silk on head, descending on to
shoulders ; veil over lower part of face. Younger women
wear a tight-fitting satin bodice, richly embroidered with gold
and silver lace ; clasp and belt of the same, and a profusion
of rings, chains, and other jewellery; white satin apron,
embroidered in scarlet.

SATAN ELLA. Low black tulle dress, made short, and
covered with silver stars.

SCHNEE^WITTCHEN (From Grimm's Fairy Tale of
Snowflake and the Dwarfs). White satin dress made low,
and puffed with silver cloth, having long and large puffed
sleeves to the elbow, much bedizened with pearls ; the skirt
looped over a petticoat, on which the seven dwarfs are painted
in brown and grey; a silver pointed crown worn at the back of
the head, and a long veil floating to the feet.

SCOTCH COSTUME, HIGHLAND LASSIE, &c.,

at Fancy Balls are generally carried out by a white dress, with
Scotch pebble ornaments ; a satin plaid scarf draped on the
shoulders wdth cairngorm brooches ; sometimes a Scotch bonnet
of black velvet with black plumes is worn, but more generally a
ribbon snood or a wreath of ivy or oak-leaves. The several
clans display their badges in the form of silver acorns and oak-
leaves, wheat, &c. This is the fancy dress usually worn at the
annual Caledonian Ball at Willis's Rooms. As a rule (there
are exceptions), unless they take part in a special quadrille, the
ladies do not wear a decided fancy dress.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FAMCY BALLS. 203

SEA, THE. Dark blue sailor hat ; a kerchief tied in
sailor knot, under large square collar; loose bodice of
Galatea, and plain skirt with frills of light blue silk or satin;
dark blue silk stockings ; life buoy supported by blue silk cord.

SEA QUEEN AND NYMPH. {See Water-Nymph.)

SEA MAIDEN {Andersen's). Plain loose robe of sea-
green watered silk ; under-dress of batiste, same shade, cut as
a high square, back and front ; short puffed sleeves ; wreath of
seaweed ; silver shells in puffings of tulle round ; coral round
neck and wrists ; armlets of shells ; round waist belt of coral
and shells, from which falls seaweed ; train of silver cloth, cut
like a fish-tail at the edge and trimmed with oyster-shells;
pink stockings ; sandalled pink shoes ; pink gloves ; silver
band round head, hair floating on shoulders, with red flowers
intermingled ; miniature of beautiful prince round neck.

SEASONS, THE (for Winter, see W; Spring and
Summer, S ; Autumn, A). Four sisters might personate the
Seasons as follows, but two should be blondes and two brunes.
The dresses all made short, the satin shoes matching the
colour of the dresses. Spring wears pale green tulle, with
flowers and a fringe of grasses ; necklace of daisies and grass ;
head-dress, a nest with eggs, and a bird on wire hovering
over it. Summer is arrayed in maize and red tulle, with
wreath and trimmings of poppies and cornflowers. Autumn
in yellow and brown, with autumn leaves, flowers, and ears of
corn. Winter in white satin, with bands of swansdown ; a
fringe of icicles on the tunic. Spring carries a basket of fresh
violets. Summer a basket of fruit. Autumn a sheaf of corn
and a sickle, Winter a little fir-tree. These may be made as
fashionable evening gowns, or in soft falling silk, or wool cut in
classic fashion.

SEMIRAMIS, QUEEN OF ASSYRIA. A loose,
long, flowing robe of white satin in classic style, embroidered
with lotus leaves ; a jewelled diadem for head-dress. Or,
skirt of ruby satin lined with gold colour, displaying Egyptian
emblems and coins ; bodice of pale blue satin, fastened
round the waist with handsome gold ornaments.

SEPTEMBER. Can be represented by a white satin
dress trimmed with purple grapes, or as Autumn. {See A.)

o

204 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

SERPOLETTE {Les Cloches de Corneinlle). Grey-blue
stockings, and shoes with brown heels ; short grey cashmere
skirt with box-plaiting round, half a yard deep ; tunic, forming
puff and ends at back, buttoning on to close-fitting cuirass
bodice ; plain linen fichu, or bib with a point in front ; sleeves
to elbow with cuffs ; white linen cap with blue ribbon band and
bow. Second dress, pink brocade long skirt with cuirass ;
satin hat with three white feathers.

SERVIAN PEASANT. Loose full skirt; Garibaldi
bodice, with full sleeves to wrist ; belt of black leather ; gaily
striped apron ; embroidery at throat ; hair plaited with coloured
ribbons.

SERVING MAID {Elizabethan Period). Short stuff
gown, fawn colour ; made with pointed bodice ; tight sleeves
with stuffed epaulettes ; ruff at throat ; muslin cap ; bag
hanging at side. {See Plate XI., Fig. 43.)

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. {See Charles I.,
Charles II. Period, James IL, &c.) Morning costume of
French lady in XVIIth century : Cardinal petticoat ; upper skirt
of the same, turned back with dark green : white apron ; cape
and cap trimmed with lace ; red stockings and black shoes.

SHEPHERDESS. {See Arcadian Shepherdess.) Felt
hat, flowers on one side and under the brim; crook; low
square bodice filled in with musHn ; black velvet band round
neck ; braces and stomacher ; muslin sleeves to wrist ; short
skirt of pink and white striped silk ; bodice cut in tabs.
Shepherdess Dress of the Fifteenth Century. For
a dark or stout lady. Long blue woollen skirt and sleeves,
over which a red tunic to below the knees, and bell sleeves
of the same colour ; the upper dress is confined by a ceinture,
in the shape of a loose bag, deep on one side and narrow
like a band on the other ; head-dress of blue, white, or red
linen or merino, folded across the head and left to hang
rather deep about the neck and ears ; crook. The following
are pretty renderings of the character : — White tulle ; short
skirts, made with narrow flounces and bows of ribbon ; sky-
blue tunic, trimmed with pink; blue bodice, with pink
plastron; blue saucer-shaped hat with roses and long pink
ribbons ; blue shoes with pink rosettes. Or, petticoat of blue
and white Chambery gauze ; bodice and tunic of amber satin
trimmed with blue. Or, a cerise brocaded satin skirt, and tunic
of pale blue satin. Watteau Shepherdess consists of a

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 205

full, short, yellow skirt, with a deep flounce about two inches
from the edge, over which comes a full all-round panier of
yellow and pink stripes ; the bodice with tabs round the waist,
but it is left open down the front, broad at the top, and
narrowing to below the waist, showing white chemisette, over
which it is laced with pink cord, a small pink bow covering
each of the nine eyelet-holes, four each side of the bodice and
one at the point, below the waist; there are two sets of
sleeves, — full white elbow-sleeves with pink bows, and short
upper sleeves of purple to match the bodice ; the hat is
slightly turned up on each side, and ornamented with pink
bows and flowers; the crook, the sine qua 71071 of the costume,
has bows and flowers. {See Watteau and Florian.)

SHILLING. {See Sovereign.)

SHIPTON, MOTHER. (^^^ Hubbard, Mother.)

SHOE, OLD WOMAN W^HO LIVED IN A.

Short black skirt, over it a chintz sacque a la Watteau, cut
square at the throat; with elbow-sleeves; powdered hair; a
rod in her hand ; a large high-heeled scarlet satin shoe,
trimmed with gold, slung across the shoulders and filled with
small dolls.

SHUTTLECOCK. Short white satin dress with long
cock's feathers in perpendicurar rows ; red skull cap of velvet,
bordered with a gold band; red velvet cuirass bodice ; white
shoes and gloves ; small shuttlecocks fastened on red velvet
round neck ; the same for earrings.

SILVER QUEEN. Low ball-gown made of cloth of
silver, or silver-spangled tulle; silver sceptre, crown, and
ornaments ; veils and winged sleeves of silver tulle.

SING A SONG OF SIXPENCE. The maid wears
a red petticoat ; short, dark blue tunic ; pointed bodice, high
striped sleeves to elbow ; mob cap ; satchel at side.

SIREN. Evening dress of green and white crepe, over
a petticoat of silver cloth bordered with-a fringe of grass, shells,
and leaves powdered with crystal ; cuirass bodice made of a
fancy silver cloth, resembling fish-scales, bordered with green
satin, to which are attached silver fish and Medusa heads ;
pearls, mother-of-pearl drops, and dewdrops introduced as
fringes ; also on the wreath, with grasses, over a crystal-spangled
veil.

o 2

206 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

SIXTEENTH CENTURY. {See Catharine of
Arragon, Catharine Howard, Catharine Parr, &c.)

SKATING COSTUME. {See Russian Skater, Polish,
&c.)

SLAVE. Flowing dress of white satin embroidered in
gold ; hair hanging down the back bound with a fillet of gold ;
gold band round the throat, gold anklets, the hands united by
gold handcuffs. Two sisters can be dressed alike, and appear
chained together. {See Circassian Slave.)

SLEEP. Straw - coloured ball-dress, wreathed with
poppies ; cap in the shape of a poppy turned upside down,
and worn on one side of the powdered hair, or a wreath of
poppies.

SNEER^WELL, LADY {School for Scandal). Dress of
pink satin, with Watteau sacque front of lace and pearl
embroidery, with roses. Second dress, walking costume of
terra-cotta plush over pale pink ; hat of plush, terra-cotta
shaded plumes.

SNIPE. Skirt and bodice of feathers, with cap like head
of bird.

SNOW, SNOW-STORM. A princesse dress of soft
■white foulard, made high to the throat, or with a square-cut
bodice, back and front, and very short sleeves ; a drapery of
Indian muslin put on just below the hips, covered with de-
rtached pieces of frosted swansdown, caught back at both sides
with a long broad piece of swansdown, long glass icicles;
the bodice and short sleeves trimmed to match, and a wreath
of frosted swansdown, with icicles; a veil, fastened either
to the wreath or to the shoulders, of frosted gauze, dotted
all over with swansdown ; very long gloves, trimmed to
match, and shoes covered with swansdown ; necklace of
frosted swansdown and icicles, and from underneath a few
drooping snowdrops peeping out ; hair down ; the fan
entirely of swansdown, with an edging of drooping icicles ;
if the swansdown is just touched with gum, and some
•" frosting " powder sprinkled on, the effect is very sparkling.
Snow Queen. Same, with crown of icicles. {See
Winter, Polish Snow, and Polish.)

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 207

SNOW WHITE, OR LITTLE SNOWFLAKES.

White brocaded satin Turkish trousers ; bodice and tunic in
one, of white nun's veihng embroidered round the edge with
gold ; gold girdle round the waist, also a white scarf with
embroidered ends ; the bodice and sleeves trimmed with rows
of gold cord; white cap and veil. {See White Dresses, W.)

SNOWDROP. Skirt and bodice of white tulle, edged
with pale green satin ; basque and sleeves of white satin, cut
in points to represent outer leaves of flower ; trimmed with
deep fringe of snowdrops ; chaplet of same flowers round the
neck ; powdered hair. (iSee Flowers and January.)

SOPHIA W^ESTERN. Sacque of pale pink, over dark
brown satin skirt ; long lace apron ; kerchief over low bodice,
with chocolate stomacher ; powdered hair ; pointed lace cap ;
high-heeled pink shoes, paste buckles ; tan gloves ; copy of
" Isabella ; or. The Fatal Marriage," in her hand.

SORCERESS. Short costume of black, red, and gold
satin, the skirt red, having a black band round with the signs of
the Zodiac in gold ; a serpent twisted about the waist ; a scarf
of many colours worn diagonally over the hips j a red kerchief
with gold coins on the head ; ornaments, beads and coins. Or,
a black velvet robe high to the throat, with pendent sleeves.
covered all over with cabalistic signs ; high pointed cap en-
twined with a serpent ; a stick carried in the hand ; black satin
shoes, embroidered with gold. Or, yellow satin over scarlet
satin, cut in points, and at each point a copper bell, orna-
mented with black velvet bats, mice, efts, &c. ; a large green
snake coiling round the body; ditto round the neck and arms ;
head-dress, gold bat on the forehead, and snake round the
head.

SORRENTINE PEASANT. {See Italian.)

SOUBRETTE, or W^AITING MAID {in Louts
XV' s reign). Wears a pretty /^2/^^'<? short dress, generally a
quilted skirt, cap, and muslin apron. For example : Rose-
coloured quilted petticoat ; blue satin tunic ; black velvet low
bodice laced up the front with blue and bordered with lace ;
muslin apron trimmed with lace; small lace cap with wild
roses ; gold ornaments ; high-heeled shoes, and pink and white
stockings.

2o8 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

SOUR GRAPES. Maize sateen dress, covered with
grapes cut out from chintz and appUqued on ; a musUn cap
on the head with a bunch of grapes, and bunches of artificial
grapes on the low square bodice and elbow-sleeves, and in the
muslin apron turned up and forming a lap.

SOVEREIGN AND SHILLING {for two sisters).
One wearing gold, the other silver. Evening dresses of gold
or silver-spangled tulle, liberally trimmed with coins, which
fringe the bodice; ornaments of the same; gold-netted or
silver scarf on skirt with coins attached ; rings and tassels at
end to resemble a purse ; Phrygian cap of satin with the same
coins ; gold or silver aigrette in front.

SPADES, QUEEN OF. (^^^ Cards.)

SPANISH LADY. {See Carmen.) Short satin skirt
(white, red, yellow, or rose) with black lace flounces headed by
bands of velvet or gold ; low bodice of the same ; senorita
jacket of velvet trimmed with ball fringe, made with long
sleeves ; high comb ; lace mantilla fastened over it with red
and yellow roses, the hair in a coil at back ; gloves, mittens,
and high heeled shoes. This is the ordinary Spanish fancy
dress : a black silk dress with square-cut bodice is also en
regie. The costumes in Spain, as they appeared when the
late King Alphonso was married to Queen Mercedes, were :
TheWomen of Carvajales, short embroidered flannel skirts,
silk mantillas worked with gold spangles, gold necklaces and
earrings, and shoes with silver buckles; those of Dermillo,
short black velvet skirts, aprons embroidered with coloured
silks, small China crape shawls, and black shoes with silver
buckles. The Women of Toledo, short silk skirts, trimmed
with gold and silver braid ; black velvet bodices with gold
buttons ; red velvet apron, and black velvet shoes ; coral neck-
lace, and the hair tied up with coloured ribbons. The
Women of Murcia, an embroidered skirt, black velvet
bodice, white shoes embroidered with gold. From Malaga
as "MajoSj" with flounced skirts, China crape shawls, and
large pearl necklaces. The "Comparsa" from Valencia,
short silk skirts, embroidered with silver and gold ; satin bodices
of different colours, with tight sleeves ; silk stockings, and
large white satin shoes; a silver comb in the hair, with
hair-pins and coloured beads; necklaces; and baskets of
flowers on their arms. Saragossa, short cotton skirts,
small coloured crape shawls crossed round their waists ;

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCV BALLS. 209

coloured stockings and black shoes ; and gold necklaces.
Segovia, silk skirts, black velvet bodices embroidered in
gold, with long sleeves ; coral and gold necklaces, and black
satin shoes ; on their heads a small velvet cap worked with
gold. Gaceres, silk handkerchiefs on the head, velvet
bodices with silver buttons, and plaited skirts ; black
stockings, and shoes with silver buttons. Ciudad Real,
black bodices, silk handkerchiefs crossed over the chest, and
coloured skirts. Jaen^ silk nandkerchiefs tied round the
head, and coloured skirts and black bodices. A Castilian
at Fancy Balls wears bright pink satin skirts, trimmed with
gold ; black velvet bodices cut in tabs, laced across the
front with gold cord ; black lace aprons, pink satin shoes ;
small hats of black velvet, worn on one side of the head. A
Catalonian, black velvet skirt, upper-skirt of yellow cash-
mere ; black velvet jacket ; floral head-dress. A Toledo
Woman, blue satin skirt, trimmed with gold and silver braid ;
crimson velvet apron trimmed to match the skirt ; black velvet
bodice over white lawn chemisette ; velvet shoes, red stockings ;
coral ornaments. A Spanish Mandolin Girl wears a
short red silk skirt, bordered with white silk, with arabesque
designs upon it ; a low loose cambric bodice, with a black
velvet Spanish jacket, trimmed with gold fringe and braid ;
long scarf sash of black and gold silk, fringed with gold ; as
much gold jewellery as possible. An Andalusian, white silk
short skirt, trimmed with pink and black velvet ; pink silk tunic,
with silver and black velvet ; black velvet bodice ; silver comb ;
spangled vest and pelisse; large black fan. The "Say a
y Manta" is of Andalusian origin, and was formally
worn by the ladies of Lima at processions, bull-fights, and
when they went out to shop, but never in church, where
the mantilla is de rigiieur. The ''saya," or skirt, is
made of rich black satin, lined throughout, and formed
into innumerable small plaits from the waist to the
edge of the skirt by strong waxed threads. It is then
slipped over a board of its own length and from twenty
to thirty inches wide, on which it remains for three weeks, so
that the satin may retain the creases when the threads are
cut to within a quarter of a yard from the waist. A richly-
embroidered Chinese scarf, the deeply fringed edges of which
fall over the " saya " in front, is fastened at the throat by a
jewel. The " manta " consists of a shawl-shaped piece of black
Chinese crape, the triangular part of which is tied tightly

2IO FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

round the waist by means of a casing, the straight end being
drawn up over the head and across the face, so as to show
only one eye. It is held thus by the thumb and two first
fingers of the right hand, a lace pocket-handkerchief and
flower in the left. Silk stockings, and shoes of either black
satin or fine bronze kid, embroidered with coloured silks
and cut very low on the instep, complete this costume. A
high Spanish comb is worn in the hair, which gives height and
elegance to the figure. Bracelets and rings are also worn, but
neither gloves nor fan are admissible. A Spanish Dancer,
a pale blue satin skirt, trimmed with silver passementerie and
grelots ; a pale pink satin bodice, with blue satin jacket,
reaching only halfway down the back, and ornamented with a
quantity of silver grelots ; a white blonde mantilla ; a Spanish
comb at the top, and a red rose at the side of the head.
Spanish Peasant Girl, low black velvet bodice, square
cut over a chemisette with short sleeves ; pink satin skirt,
trimmed with flounces of black Spanish lace ; satin sash to
match ; pink cap, with coins, or hair in curls, with silver or
gold dagger through it ; black stockings and shoes ; black
mittens ; gold ornaments and pink roses. Spanish Lady,
dress of black satin, lace, and jet ; crimson plush bodice,
trimmed with a profusion of silver braid and buttons, to re-
semble a Spanish jacket ; very high comb ; black lace mantilla
over it, looped back on one side with scarlet pomegranates,
of which there is also a bunch on one shoulder and another
very large one on the skirt ; black gloves and shoes.

SPARROW. Short skirt and bodice of brown feathers;
cap like head of bird.

SPELLING-BEE. Orange skirt striped with black
velvet, the letters of the alphabet in black carried round in a
double row ; the low square black velvet bodice, irimmed
with orange, displays the names of dictionaries, such as
Webster, Johnson, &c. A bee on the head.

SPHINX. An Egyptian dress covered with hieroglyphics.
(See Egyptian.)

SPINNING-GIRL, FILEUSE. Short skirt of white
and amber ; low square bodice ; black and white satin apron
with bib, both bib and apron decorated with field flowers
and flax; white lace tucker and short sleeves; a crimson

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 211

velvet sash starting from the shoulders encircles the waist,
and is tied loosely in front of the apron; straw hat with
flowers in front, ribbons floating at the back ; a distaff is
carried in the hand, and decorated with blue ribbons and field
flowers ; striped black and white stockings, black shoes, with
amber and red bows.

SPORT. Pink satin bodice ; gold cap trimmed with
colours of favourite racehorses ; the front of bodice, portraits
of racehorses ; in the skirt, insignias of hunting and
shooting.

SPRING. A green or white tulle evening dress trimmed
with spring flowers, daisies, primroses, crocuses, and violets ;
a lighter veil falling over the shoulders, a wreath of the
same ; the flov/ers may be arranged round the skirt in a
lattice-work, the tunic edged with a fringe of green grass.
Less hackneyed renderings are as follows : Green silk short
skirt trimmed with snowdrops and violets ; white cashmere
polonaise and low bodice, with long hanging sleeves caught up
on one side by a swallow ; a ruff of lace and flowers round the
neck ; green and white cap with flowers ; green satin shoes.
Several short skirts of frosted tarlatan or tulle caught up with
frosted primroses, crocuses, and dead fern-leaves ; the low
bodice trimmed with swansdown as well as flowers and crystal
drops ; powdered hair, with flowers, gloves, and satin boots,
bordered with swansdown ; crystal ornaments. Or, classic robe
of pale green silk or muslin ; hair studded with flowers, veil on
head ; sandalled feet. Or, a white dress with green leaves head-
ing each flounce ; paniers edged with buttercups and daisies ;
flowers over back of skirt. Or, low bodice, with fichu of fine
tulle edged with grass and flowers ; hair scattered over with
flowers, hair hanging ; long gloves, and fan edged with flowers.

SQUEERS, MRS. AND MISS {Nicholas Nickleby).
Mrs. Squeers, a short, narrow skirt, just touching the
ankles, composed of flounced and striped, mousseline-de-laine ;
spencer of the same with short waist, enormous gigot sleeves ;
a coal-scuttle bonnet of drawn black satin ; corkscrew curls ;
a birch rod and wooden spoon in hand. Miss Fanny
Squeers ; similar dress, white muslin skirt, pink sash tied
at back ; white satin bonnet and spencer.

SQUIRE'S DAUGHTER. Loose skirt of sateen with
three fluted flounces of muslin edged with lace ; tunic of

212 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

flowered chintz, open in front bunched up at side ; pointed
bodice with blue stomacher ; lace elbow-sleeves and kerchief;
muslin cap.

STAR, STARLIGHT, EVENING STAR, POLAR
STAR, MORNING STAR, NORTHERN STAR, are

all rendered after the same order ; viz., with either a black,
blue, or white evening dress, and veil covered with silver
stars ; ornaments of the same, coronet of the same in the hair.
Much silver fringe is used on bodices and tunic, a glittering
effect being desired. The hair powdered with silver is an im-
provement. For Starlight, a dark purple dress veiled in star-
spangled tulle is sometimes worn. Or, two shades of dark
blue, with a silver scarf about the skirt, looped with silver stars
and fringe ; bodice and veil spangled with stars, also front of
dress ; crown of stars. And for a Dark Starlight Night,
a black dress, studded one side with diamonds, one side with
jet stars ; one side of the hair powdered ; one glove ; and one
shoe white, one black. For Evening Star, a gold crescent
is also introduced in the hair.

STARNBERG BRIDE. A short red skirt, full lace
apron going quite round and reaching nearly to the hem ; a
black velvet bodice laced across with silver, and filled in with
a lace kerchief; a frill at the throat ; long, full sleeves matching
the skirt ; a wreath on the head. {See German Peasant.)

STELLA. {See Fille du Tambour-Major.)

STEWARDESS. Short blue satin skirt and loose
bodice, with white over-jacket faced with blue ; fisherman's cap
of white with blue band ; the word stewardess in silver letters.

STOCKBROKER, LADY. Short pink silk skirt bor-
dered with white satin, hung with gold coins, and the several
kinds of stocks printed upon it ; low bodice of pink silk, over
it a low polonaise of star-spangled gauze, caught up with roses,
the top of the bodice trimmed with gold coins and fringe ; gold
belt at the waist ; gold net on the head with coins ; a cornucopia
carried in the hand, out of which stocks, money, and roses
seem to spring ; high-heeled pink shoes ; black mittens.

STORK. Dress of bird's plumage and satin with head
of stork for cap.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 2I3

STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. Short skirt of
strawberry-coloured satin, lower part arranged with deep box-
plaits of brocaded cream satin; the spaces between of
coloured satin ; skirt of cream lace and red silk looped up
with strawberries and leaves and ribbon of the two colours ;
paniers of cream brocade edged with a fringe of strawberries ;
square cut bodice of cream brocade with long pointed waist
laced up the front ; epaulettes of strawberries, wreath of same
across the bodice ; gilded punnet of strawberries for head-dress;
cream fan painted with strawberries.

STYRIAN PEASANT. Short skirt of amber stuft or
silk, trimmed with black velvet; blue tunic, looped up with
rose-colour; black velvet square bodice, over high white
chemisette ; white straw hat, trimmed with rose-colour ; gold
earrings ; cross and rosary ; white apron.

SUABIAN PEASANT {froifi 'kingdom of Wurtemberg).
A plaited skirt of black taffetas, over a starched petticoat, reaches
to ankles ; red stockings and black boots ; dark-coloured
cloth jacket trimmed with ruches of black silk, cut en coeur in
front over white linen bodice ; white apron tied round waist ;
bandana handkerchief round neck ; black national head-dress
embroidered in gold, black streamers falling at the back.

SUEZ CANAL. {See Canal.)

SULTANA, INDIAN. A robe of cloth of gold and
a spangled veil; the seams of the long loose habit em-
broidered with precious stones ; cluster of diamonds on her
head ; loose under-dress ; brilliant colours should be chosen.

SUMMER. A white or pink gauze, lisse, or tulle evening
dress, liberally trimmed with summer flowers, especially roses ;
it is sufficient to wear a wreath of the same, but a veil with
butterflies is a more decided fancy dress, or a straw hat, with
flowers and butterflies. Scattered rose leaves on the skirt
add to the effect, interspersed with butterflies and green
beetles ; a basket of flowers in hand ; necklet and earrings of
China roses. Or, dress of blue and crimson brocade, with
fringes of flowers. July is dressed in the same fashion.

SUN. A yellow tulle or gauze evening dress, trimmed
with gold ; a cap with a gold sun ; ornaments, gold suns, and a
wand in the hand, surmounted bv the same.

214 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

SUNBEAM. White tulle dress, flounced to waist, each
flounce edged with rows of gold braid ; a large sash round the
waist with gold fringe, a gold chatelaine bag at side ; head-
dress, veil of gold tissue, enveloping the figure, and glittering
at every movement; ornament, gold.

SUNFLOWERS {after Alma Tadema's picture). Along
dress with loose sleeves, falling back so as to show the arms^
of some dark brown stuff; embroidered at throat, sleeves, waist,
and hem with gold ; sunflowers in hand ; three gold bands
round hair.

SUNRISE. Dress of grey tulle, with rows of ribbon
of the rainbow shades round the skirt ; veil of grey gold-
spangled tulle. Or, grey and pink in alternate skirts ; grey
tunic, spangled with powdered glass ; wreath of half-opened
roses, with dewdrops and birds with open beaks.

SUNSET. Black tarlatan dress, trimmed with red and
yellow suns ; coronet of the same. Or, red dress, with the
setting sun worked in tinsel in front, the rays coming well
outside, horizon grey and slightly blue ; gold-coloured gauze
veil j bodice red ; gold fringe.

SUSAN. Dove-coloured stuff gown, rather short, with
soft white kerchief and cap, and a pink ribbon in the latter.

SUSAN, BLACK- EYED. {See^.)

SUSANNA {Figaro). Wears a Spanish dress. {See
Spanish.)

SUZEL. White silk petticoat trimmed with black velvet ;
large pink silk apron with black velvet ; white silk bodice
slashed with black velvet ; black and white stockings.

SWALLOW. Tulle dress, black, grey, and white, with
swallows dotted about it ; flowers in the hand.

SWALLOWS, FLIGHT OF. White dress with black
velvet bodice ; birds sewn on the front of dress, one on each
shoulder.

SW^EDISH PEASANT. Bright - coloured striped
woollen skirt touching the ground ; white apron, nearly as long
as the dress, with rows of coloured embroidery across the lower
part ; fur-lined jacket over a white chemisette, with a red and
green corselet rounded at the top, or a half-high square-cut

XII r

^

h^'-

(■■ f.\ I I 0 K Iv'

SWISS

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 215

velvet bodice embroidered in silver, with short sleeves, and
points at waist, back and front ; hair in plaits, a large bow
of ribbon at the back. In some parts of Sweden a white linen
cap is worn, the shape of a paper bag, the points standing
out at either side of the head.

SA?SrEEP, LADY. Dress of dull black satin, with the
word " Sweep " in silver on skirt and bodice ; a sweep's
circular broom in hand ; a characteristic smut on cheek.

SWEET SEVENTEEN. (See White Dresses.)

SW^EETHEART, MY. Dainty dress of pale pink satin ;
large muslin pinafore trimmed with antique Valenciennes lace ;
large hat with wreath of wild flowers.

SWISS. For the several cantons the peasant's costume

varies considerably. In Glarus the dress is not picturesque ; a

bonnet very much like a nightcap covers the head; the plain

body opens V-shape in front, bordered with a ruche, and the

white linen apron contrasts with the dark petticoat. The Emen-

thal dress is one of those generally copied ; a coquettish straw

hat covered with flowers ; black velvet corselet bodice and

yoke-piece worn over a chemisette with sleeves to elbow, the

black velvet covered with silver embroidery, and hung with

silver chains ; closely-plaited short skirt of green or lilac.

The distinguishing feature of the Basle dress is the silver chain

round the waist ; the head-dress is black silk, like that worn in

many parts of Germany. In Schaffhausen the bodice is still

more ornamented. In Niedwalden, on the Lake of Lucerne,

the bodice is supplemented by a massive silver collar ; a silver

arrow through the hair. The Geneva girl wears a French

muslin cap, tight-fitting jacket, lace-embroidered neckerchief,

short apron and petticoat, high-heeled shoes. At Neuremberg

the dress is sombre, and not distinctive. The Waadtlauderin

wears a low bodice, with a many-coloured chemisette ; striped

petticoat, silk apron : white stockings ; square-toed shoes ;

straw hat. In Tessin the girls wear a multi-coloured apron, high

square bodice over white chemisette; head-dress, a tinsel crown

with silver arrows ; sandals with wooden soles and high heels.

In Valois they wear a dark dress and curiously-plaited white

cap. In the canton of Uri the dress is dark, the cap large,

with a butterfly-wing fastened to the back of head. The girls of

St. Gallien wear a striped skirt ; silk bodice laced with gold or

silver chains, short white sleeves ; black gauze cap with a fan of

gauze on either side of the crescent-shaped bandeau which

2l6 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

encircles the head. The girls of Solothurn wear the hair in
plaits, and the dress high to the throat, in no way remarkable.
At Appenzell low bodices are fastened with chains, a loosel3^-tied
silk handkerchief round neck, curled hair ; the red silk hand-
kerchief is a badge of matronhood. It is in Schwyz the high
wheel-shaped cap is worn, and in Granbundten a striped apron,
and silk handkerchief about the head. At Zug, a silk bodice
trimmed with silver lace, lace-trimmed kerchief over bust,
yellow straw hat on one side. At Freiburg the head-dress is a
great feature — very large, made of black silk and gauze. The
following is a Swiss peasant dress worn at a fancy ball : Short
skirt of silver cloth, with rows of black velvet ; muslin tunic
bordered with silver, looped up with black and silver ; apron
of muslin, covered with a lattice-work of velvet and silver;
low bodice, with many tabs for basque, trimmed with silver ;
white muslin head-dress, with silver braid and flowers. The
following is the more characteristic Swiss dress of Berne :
Short scarlet skirt, bordered with black, black velvet corselet,
bodice hung with silver chains and embroidery over a white
chemisette ; white apron ; hair in plaits ; Swiss cap. {See
Coloured Illustration, Plate XIII.) A variation worn at
Grodner : A short skirt, large apron, long coat jacket with
sleeves full at the shoulders, tight at the wrist, showing
the laced bodice in front ; the collar is a tight band with
a deep frilling reaching to the shoulders ; large hat with
enormous brim, round crown, cord, and flowers. At Tiffereggen
the head-dress is like an inverted basin. At Puster Thai a
large ruff completes the picturesque dress.

SYBIL, LIBYAN. Eastern dress, made of cloth of
gold, with jewels ; jewelled crown with three ostrich feathers.

TALLIEN, MADAME. Velvet riding-habit turned
back with pink silk ; a round cape over the shoulders : large
muslin tie ; hair powdered ; black velvet hat, with pointed
crown and ostrich plumes drooping over it. Period, 1 7 75-1 838.

TAMBOURINE GIRL. Short skirt of black satin,
trimmed with crimson cloth, embroidered in gold ; bodice of
crimson and black satin, and gold buttons; head-dress,
crimson and gold cap ; ornaments, gold coin earrings and
necklace, and gold bangles. Or, short black and yellow
petticoat; red upper-skirt, trimmed with bands of black
velvet, from which gold coins hang ; black velvet low square

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 217

bodice, laced with red and gold ; red silk handkerchief on
the head, a tambourine hung at the side. Or, crimson and
green brocade, trimmed with gold coins.

TANGIERS, LADY OF. This is an effective dress.
The turban is of bright orange silk, coming well over the fore-
head, the ends falling at the back, large pendent jewels
hanging on either side, and intermingling with the huge ring
earrings ; the jacket of velvet has short sleeves, and opens in
a circular form to show a stomacher, which like the jacket is
a mass of embroidery ; transparent hanging sleeves ; long
embroidered skirt ; many- coloured silk scarfs about the waist ;
bead necklace, and gold and bead bracelets.

TEAZLE, LADY {School for Scandal). K poudre cos-
tume of the Georgian period made with sacque ; old brocade
and satin suitable. For example : Body and train of cream-
coloured brocade ; petticoat of lemon satin, trimmed with old
point lace, Marshal Neil roses, brown leaves ; ornaments,
pearls and diamonds. Lady Teazle, in the screen scene, might
wear a dress of pale Venetian-red silk, opening over a petticoat
entirely covered with plaitings of yellowish lace ; stomacher
of lace and red ribbons ; full neckerchief of cream silk Indian
muslin, with double plaitings of the lace, tied in a large knot
in front, and fastened with paste brooch, and cluster of pale
yellow flowers; either a large cream lace hat, lined with
Venetian-red, or a lace head-dress, like that of Miss Gunning
in Sir Joshua's portrait ; Watteau fan ; cream mousquetaire
gloves ; high-heeled shoes of the Venetian-red with diamond
buckles; black velvet with diamond clasp round throat; a
cane might be carried in hand. Or, a white satin sacque with
brocaded stripes ; the petticoat embroidered in crystal and
iridescent beads festooned with yellow roses. In the screen
scene, amber Incroyable coat lined with pale blue satin, having
paste buckles. One of the prettiest of the many gorgeous
dresses worn by Marie Wilton in the character was as
follows : Satin skirt, with a cascade of lace down the front ;
a train of light brocade elaborately trimmed with lace, also
en cascade ; a sacque at back ; heart-shaped bodice ; pendent
elbow-sleeves; a small wreath of roses and aigrette on one
side of the powdered hair ; satin pointed shoes ; long
gloves ; pearls round the neck, a miniature hanging in
front. {See Plate XI., Fig. 44-)

TELEGRAPH, BRITISH SUBMARINE. Bodice

2l8 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

and skirt of pale sea-green satin, draped with tri-coloured flags,
looped with silver chains, cables, and grappling-irons ; seaweed
round the throat and top of the dress.

TELEGRAPH, THE. Short dress of blue and red satin
trimmed with bands of silver cloth and gold wires, often
represented by gold and silver braid ; the upper skirt tulle,
looped up with medalHons representing the telegraph poles ; a
satin or black velvet cap, with the word " Telegraph " worked
in pearls ; pearl ornaments.

TEMPEST. {See Ariel and Miranda).

TENNIS, LA'SATN. Short plain skirt of grass-green
satin, slightly gathered at the back, and trimmed at the edge
with grass fringe, headed by white satin bands ; bats and
balls introduced as trimmings. {See Lawn Tennis.)

THALIA. Loose soft drapery caught up at the knee, over
flowing skirt ; low bodice, with deep gathered basque ; sash
round the waist ; a wreath in one hand, a mask in the other ;
a tambourine at the side.

THE, FLEUR DE. {See F.)

THETIS. Dress of foamy white ; a beryl - coloured
peplum with bunches of coral and shells ; pale coral and
shells about the head.

THIRTEENTH CENTURY, A LADY OF THE,

makes a very effective dress. Ruby velvet skirt trimmed with
silver lace ; cream-coloured brocade for front breadth and
bodice, with long sleeves ; high-pointed head-dress and silver-
spangled veil.

THRALE, MRS. {Georgian dress). White silk sacque,
the front covered with lace ; powdered hair ; white cap.

TIME. An evening dress of black and white tulle;
with cuirass bodice, and red Dutch clocks hanging at the
side ; the several hours in Roman letters round the tunic ; an
hour-glass and scythe for chatelaine.

TITAN I A {Midstwimer Nighfs Dreafn). White or blue
robe of tulle gauze, or some soft floating material, spangled with
silver ; a tulle scarf over it fastened on one shoulder with
a bouquet of wild flowers, and on the other side of the
dress with the same ; for head-dress, either a crown of
silver flowers, or a diamond star-coronet, over a veil scattered

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 219

•with butterflies; necklet and bracelets of small flowers; a wand,
with a star at the point ; the hair floating.

TITIAN'S BELLA. From the celebrated picture at the
Pitti Gallery. A Venetian dress of blue velvet, embroidered
and slashed with red and white ; a gold chain round the neck ;
the dress is worn low ; the sleeves to wrist, with a pufl" at the
top, and perpendicular slashings along the front of skirt,
which is much embroidered. {See Venetian.)

TOILET-TABLE. White muslin dress over pink calico,
made with low bodice, long sleeves, and fichu, trimmed with
lace ; a looking-glass suspended from waist, with brush, combs,
.scissors, &c. ; powder-puff in hand ; cap, like pincushion,
stuck with pins ; ribbon epaulettes, with scissors, &c., attached.

TOLEDO WOMAN. Blue satin short skirt with gold
and silver braid ; crimson velvet apron trimmed to match ;
black velvet and white lawn bodice ; black velvet shoes ;
red stockings ; coral ornaments.

TRIC-TRAG. Short black satin skirt having a row of
gold buttons ; black satin low bodice, with basque cut in
points, bound with gold ; bertha of black and white checks ;
gold-spangled muslin tunic, forming one large puff all round,
points falling beneath ; black satin bandeau round the head;
black shoes with gold heels, check silk stockings ; gold
ornaments.

TRIGOLOUR. Short satin skirt of wide red, white, and
blue stripes ; blue satin tail-coat, having red and white revers,
and old-fashioned buttons ; lace collar and cravat ; powdered
hair, with three-cornered hat.

TROT, DAME, Blue satin quilted petticoat with
Pompadour draperies ; black velvet hat ; muslin fichu and
apron ; large spectacles ; crutch stick.

TRUE BLUE. Garried out entirely in blue ; a fashion-
able evening dress with veil and ribbons would be appropriate.

TULIP. Skirt of red and yellow tulle caught up with
tulips ; low bodice of red and yellow satin, the same coloured
ribbons round the neck, fastened with tulips ; tulips in the
powdered hair; red satin stockings and shoes; diamond
buckles.

p

2 20 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

TUNIS ORANGE GIRL. Dark blue skirt ; short red
upper-skirt trimmed with gold ; broad orange and white
striped silk scarf; black velvet bodice; gold embroidered
chemisette; orange silk cap with gold sequins; basket of oranges.

TURKISH LADY. Wears loose trousers to ankle, long
pelisse, and round cap or turban. The following is a pretty
dress : Blue satin shoes ; loose full trousers to ankle of gold-
spangled muslin ; pelisse of blue satin, Hned with maize and
trimmed with gold braid ; a red scarf round the waist ; long
hanging sleeves, lined with maize; round fez-shaped cap of blue
silk, covered with pearls ; hair in long plaits ; many rows of
beads about neck and arms ; gold-spangled veil. Sometimes
a silk skirt is worn beneath the pelisse. There should be a
fichu of gold muslin inside the bodice of dress, which should
be slightly open.

TWENTY-FOUR O'CLOCK. New clock dial on chest
and forehead, with hours from one to twenty-four ; at back of
head a pendulum swinging ; short costume of black and white
satin.

TWILIGHT. May be carried out in four shades of grey
tulle, dotted with silver stars, or in dark blue, the tunic caught
up with a silver moon on one side ; a pink and grey scarf,
attached to shoulders by a crescent, to the skirt by a silver
bat ; the bodice, d la Vierge, is made in two shades of
satin or plush, with stars and dewdrops, opening in front to
show a pink vest with crescents ; a light pink tulle veil, with
moths and other insects forming a coronet. Or, black dress of
net and silver gauze, bespangled with beetles, grasshoppers,
and other insects ; silver gauze head-dress, with the same, and
silver crescents ; beetle's-wing fan, silver ornaments.

TYROLEAN DANCER, A. Short scarlet satin skirt
trimmed with black and gold ; a black satin tunic trimmed
with bands of scarlet and gold ; high stay-like black bodice
laced in front with gold, bouquet on the left side ; a white
muslin bodice and sleeves beneath ; and a high Tyrolese hat
with grey ribbons round the crown and flowers beneath ; a
large muslin apron, embroidered in double lines with gold,
almost hiding the front of the skirt, and reaching to the hem.

TYROLESE. Short green stuff skirt, bordered with two
bands of black velvet edged with cord; black velvet low
square bodice over a white chemisette, with white sleeves to

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 221

elbow ; the bodice of black velvet ; stomacher embroidered in
gold and coloured silks ; buckled waist-belt made of leather
with chain and keys suspended ; large apron, embroidered in
double lines across ; high pointed Tyrolean hat, with gold cord
round, and a bouquet of flowers and feathers at the side; large
ruffor large lay-down collar; multi-coloured handkerchief round
neck ; white stockings, coloured clocks ; black leather boots
cut low on instep, gold buckles in front; gold chain with
medal attached.

TWINKLE, TWINKLE LITTLE STAR. Short
dress of blue and white cashmere, with low bodice a la Vierge
trimmed with silver stars ; a tulle spangled veil attached to a
silver band for head-dress.

UNA. Long, full caped robe of white cashmere with
cord girdle ; hooded cap ; hair flowing accompanied by lion.

UNDER THE WINDOW, The illustrations from
Kate Greenaway's book bearing this title find much favour for
children's costumes, as, for example, three little girls sitting on
a rail, in short dresses, pinafores, and large sun bonnets.

UNDINE. Plain short skirt of glittering silver tissue,
edged with a narrow ruche, into which are placed at distances
water-lily buds and leaves in small clusters ; two broad scarves
of pale and dark green are draped across the front, and
arranged to fall low at the back ; a large cluster of grass,
lilies, and dark brown leaves at the left side ; the bodice of
silver tissue, trimmed with grass and water-lilies ; a large open
water-lily on the head, and a great deal of grass falling
over the long, flowing hair; ornaments, pearls, shells, and
bits of pink coral all threaded together ; shoes pale green,
with silver tissue rosettes, and a lily bud and leaf in the
centre ; strings of shells, &c. ; and a mother-of-pearl fan, with
water-lily leaves and flowers arranged on pale green satin.

UNION JACK. Dress made of Union Jack flags;
anchors on the shoulders; sailor hat; a flag carried in the hand.
Or, red short cashmere skirt cut in long points, with plaitings of
red, white, and blue between ; the front draped with silk flags ;
corselet bodice of dark blue velvet over white chemisette ; an
aigrette in the form of a small flag ; fan of the same.

UNITED STATES. Short white satin skirt with red
and blue stripes ; blue satin tunic edged with silver, draped
with American flag. {See America.)

P 2

2 22 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

UNIVERSE. Short blue and white dress made of cash-
mere or soft silk in classic fashion, or in gauze or twill as an
evening gown, with stars and spheres for ornaments ; star-
spangled veil.

VALENTINA {The Hugiienois). Dress of velvet or
brocade with front breadth of quilted satin, long slashed puffed
sleeves to wrist, with epaulette ; pointed stomacher, small ruff
at throat ; velvet hat and feather, or pearl and gold coil.

VALLIERE, MADAME DE LA. Blue dress, worked
with gold leaves, the petticoat having a gathered flounce and
double heading; train, with two bows at either side; low pointed
bodice, with white folds of tissue above ; large loose puffed
sleeves from elbow to shoulder ; hair in curls, not powdered.
Or, gold-coloured satin petticoat, embroidered in gold ; crimson
and gold bodice; dark ruby velvet train, worked in gold;
powdered hair.

VALOIS. {See Bertade).

VALOIS, DE. {See Marguerite.)

VANDYKE. {See Charles I., Period of, and Plate
XII., Fig. 48.) Full plain skirt ; muslin apron, edged with
pointed lace ; bodice with revers; sleeves to wrist; hair in curls.

VARSOVIENNE. Skirt of violet satin trimmed with a
flounce headed by amber satin, tunic edged with gold braid ;
sleeveless bodice ; Hungarian hat ; sash round waist ; hair
braided in long plaits ; gold ornaments ; Hussar jacket ;
Russian boots.

VAUDOIS. (^>^ Flower Girl.)

VENDANGEUSE {or Grape- picker in the south of
France). Short white cashmere skirt, trimmed with blue satin
nnd gold fringe ; bodice of blue and white striped woollen
stuff, turned back with blue ; blue satin apron, trimmed with
lace ; white cap, with blue ribbons ; black leather shoes ;
basket of grapes on the arm.

VENETIAN. It would be scarcely possible to have a
richer style of dress than that worn by the high-born
dames of Venice in the height of her glory, as painters
have handed it down to us. At the Marlborough
House Ball, in 1874, the Princess of Wales headed a

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 223

Venetian quadrille. Her dress was of pale blue satin,
nearly covered with gold embroidery and precious stones,
forming the front breadth to a train of ruby velvet, embroidered
in gold and silver, and lined with blue satin, fastened back
with precious stones ; the close sleeves to the wrist were of
ruby velvet, with blue satin puffings, also gold embroidered ;
the small ruff was edged with gold, and the body of the dress
covered with strings of pearls ; the small round Venetian cap,
of ruby velvet, was one mass of jewels. The Duchess of
Manchester wore white and gold, with olive-green and gold-
embroidered sleeves. The Countess of Craven, in the costume
of Ignota, detta la Bella di Tiziano, green embossed velvet,
embroidered with gold, over a white satin petticoat, also em-
broidered in gold. (See Bella.) The Duchess of San Teodoro,
as Queen of Cyprus, appeared in violet velvet, trimmed with gold
and pearls, over mauve satin, all pearls and gold; a gold girdle
round the waist. The close and flowing sleeves, jewelled
bodices, feathered hats and caps, are such as Paul Veronese
and Titian have handed down to us. A notable Venetian
dress is as follows : Train and bodice of white and gold
brocade, with long open sleeves hanging from the shoulders,
fmished off with gold fringe, over tight sleeves of crimson
satin, embroidered with pearls and gold ; crimson satin
petticoat, worked in gold ; gold girdle and pouch ; ruff
and white and gold gauze veil. Brocade, satin, and velvet,
embroidered in gold, were the materials most used for petticoat
and dress ; white and black gauze for veils ; fine lawn and reti-
cella for ruffs. The hair was arranged in small curls and puffs
about the forehead, and formed a knot at the back of the head,
as a support for the veil. The fan was made of ostrich-feathers,
suspended from the girdle by a chain of gold or silver. The
most usual make of Venetian dresses was a full all-round or
trained skirt, long stiff pointed bodice, cut as a high square,
with a ruff coming from the' back of the shoulders ; sleeves to
wrist, with cuffs ; a jewelled girdle ; pointed cap and veil. In
winter, robings of fur were introduced. (See Plate XII., Fig. 45.)
Venetian mantles, made of black silk lined and embroidered
with the same colours, are occasionally worn over ordinary
evening dress in lieu of a fancy costume.

VENETIAN FISHGIRL. Old gold-coloured satin
petticoat ; crimson silk tunic, with goldjace and crimson fringe ;
black velvet bodice, with gold trimmings ; white silk under-

224 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

bodice, open at neck, with sailor collar ; red silk handkerchief
about the head, with gold fringe ; a creel with fish.

VERNON, DOROTHY, (fe Di Vernon, D.) Grin
ball costume; satin skirt trimmed with lace; pointed bodice and
bunched-up tunic of brocade, with abundant trimming of lace.

VESTAL VIRGIN. Swathed in white from head to foot.
Dress made after classic fashion. Tunic and peplum of white
cashmere, draped d la Greque ; gold bands in the hair.

VICAR OF WAKEFIELD AND FAMILY. {Sec
Wakefield, W.)

VIERLANDER {Hamburg Flower-girl). Scarlet petti-
coat bordered with green, with many gatherings at the waist ;
black apron ; black bodice, one mass of embroidery, gold,
silver, and colours in front ; white chemisette; curious straw hat,
with a circular trough round the crown; and at the back
of the head a black leather bow, the ends reaching to the
waist ; basket of flowers in hand. {See Flemish Flower-girl.)

VIEILLEUSE. Blue stockings, red short skirt and cap;
black velvet bodice over white, with white stomacher having
bands of red and black velvet across.

VIGO, WOMEN OF, Green stuff short skirt, bordered
with red, which is carried up the side ; the low bodice is blue,
showing a red under-bodice ; full linen chemisette to the
throat ; coral necklace and earrings ; hair turned back from the
face, and in a coil at the back.

VILLAGE GIRL {Colette, in La Cruche Cassce). Skirt
of white faille striped with blue, and edged with a deep box-
plaited flounce ; bodice and tunic of striped blue and white
gauze ; a pointed waistcoat of blue beneath ; the polonaise
forms a close-fitting bodice with deep-pointed basque at the
side ; it fastens in the front of the heart-shaped opening
<:oming over the waistcoat, and is bordered with plaiting
a la vieille, while the back describes a puff; the sleeves
come to the elbow ; a basket is carried on the arm ; a blue
ribbon and a rose in the hair.

VIOLA {Twelfth Night). As a page in trunk hose;
Elizabethan coat and ruff; epaulettes formed of satin loops ; a
sword with bows and rosettes.

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 225

VIOLET, OR VIOLETTE, LA. Short violet tulle
dress covered with violets ; powdered hair ; a wreath of the
same flowers on one side, or a cap like a violet. {See Flowers.)

VIOLETS, BASKET OF. Plain short skirt of violet
satin covered with a trellis pattern of straw, laid on to simulate
a basket, with green leaves peeping out between trellis ends ;
below the hips and to the waist is filled with perfumed artificial
violets sewn on close together ; violet satin bodice trimmed
with green leaves ; wreath of violets ; powdered hair.

VIOLETTA VALERIE {Favorita), First scene : Ball
gown of peach brocade and violets. Second dress : Pale
blue silk made en Princesse^ covered with point de gaze. Third
dress : Silver brocade. Last scene : clinging robe of crepe de
Chine made as a tea-gown.

VIRGIN OF THE SUN. Long classic dress of tulle
or soft silk covered with tufts of swansdown ; skirt touching the
ground, falling softly ; bodice low ; loose belt round the waist
fastened on the shoulders with a brooch ; the hair floating ;
long veil, gold band round the head.

VIRGINIA {Roman Maiden). Classic robe of white
cashmere embroidered with gold.

VIRGINIA {Paul and Virginia, by Bernardin de St.
Pierre). White Princesse dress, elbow-sleeves with lace band
round waist ; palm-leaves. The dress should be made of
white Indian muslin, sacque fashion, over pink Persian or
the old-fashioned taffeta, and of a dull pink shade, holding
just a tint of yellow. It may be open in front, to show the
pink under-skirt, trimmed at the bottom with a deep box-plait ;
the bodice square cut, with a soft fichu of muslin and fine
lace, and with rufiles of the same to the elbow-sleeves ; a
bouquet of oleander blossoms fastened in the fichu. A
wide shepherdess hat, lined with pink taffetas, should be
carried on the arm, and a palm-leaf screen in the hand. Long
gloves of white Suede without buttons. The hair dressed high
from the forehead, and falling in curls on the neck, but not
powdered or otherwise adorned. A ruching of pink ribbon or
double falling frill of white lace round the throat.

VITTORIA COLONNA, DONNA. As worn by
Lady C. Villiers at the Queen's Ball, on the 12th May, 1842.

226 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR,

Skirt just touching the ground, of sky-blue brocade ; low
square red velvet bodice and tunic, the latter cut in battle-
ments and bordered with gold ; gold girdle ; low chemisette
under the velvet bodice ; leg-of-mutton sleeves puffed, the
puffs divided by gold cord ; diamond circlet, tulle veil edged
with gold.

VIVANDIERE {La Figlia del Reggwienio). There are
many varieties in these ; a Vivandiere Polonaise wears a
jacket of blue satin, braided across the breast like a hussar's,
slung from the shoulders ; a pelisse of scarlet satin, braided to
match, and trimmed with fur ; white satin skirt embroidered
with gold ; sabretache of scarlet and gold : Polish boots ;
lancer cap. Vivandiere des Mousquetaires de la
Garde du Roi Louis XIII. wears a short crimson satin,
skirt, trimmed with gold braid, and black velvet bows ; pale
blue satin doublet faced with crimson and gold lace ; white
satin pelisse lined with satin, and trimmed with gold braid and
Astracan fur ; blue satin cap ; small barrel, and sabretache ;
black satin high boots. Vivandiere des Grenadiers
de la Garde Imperiale Napoleon III., dark blue cloth
skirt, with broad scarlet band, and gold lace ; jacket of blue
cloth, with gold epaulettes, braid, lace, &c. ; facings white,
collar and cuffs scarlet, revers of white and scarlet, with gold
lace and braid; Hessian boots with gold tassels; kepi of
gold, and scarlet, and blue ; small white muslin apron, with
tri-coloured ribbons ; canteen, with arms of Napoleon. Hun-
garian Vivandiere. White silk skirt ; blue satin vest,
braided in gold; crimson satin jacket, with white facings;
blue satin boots, trimmed to correspond ; aigrette on tri-
cornered cap with gold. {See Plate XII., Fig. 47.) La Figlia
del Reggimento would wear a short scarlet cloth skirt;
green velvet jacket like a riding-habit, faced with scarlet ; a
white cloth waistcoat beneath ; a felt hat, with a rosette, and
plume of scarlet and green; black patent leather boots with brass
heels ; a small barrel slung by a ribbon across one shoulder, and
under the other arm. An oak barrel with silver hoops is what
is usually used. A Vivandiere is really a woman who is
authorised to march with a regiment ; and the opera of La
Figlia del Reggimento has given the character particular pro-
minence. It is a very favourite one at Fancy Balls. Dark
red cloth skirt, made in close plaited folds; apron; white cloth
acings ; red jacket ; forage cap with gold band ; high bootSy

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 22/

and a small barrel. {See also Russian Hussar, Mediaeval
VivANDiERE ; also Plate XII., Fig. 46.)

yiVANDIERE FRANCAISE. Scarlet cashmere
skirt, bands of white satin and gold braid, white satin scart
trimmed with gold fringe and braid ; jacket of same material
cut in miUtary style; facings of satin, trimmed profusely with
gold ; epaulettes and cords on the shoulders ; three cornered
black satin hat ; black strapped boots with diamond buckles,
scarlet silk stockings ; scarlet and white barrel and white
gauntlet gloves. Or, blue and red epaulettes, lace skirt ; coat
in mousquetaire style, the skirt buttoned back ; cocked hat.

VIVIEN {Idylls of the King). A long grey robe of bro-
cade j a gold belt at the waist ; a gold band over the flowing
hair ; the bodice a low square ; the sleeves puffed.

WAITING-MAID {French). Striped black and red
petticoat ; over-skirt of deep gold colour, lined with red, forming
a puff at the back ; black velvet bodice, and white plastron,
barred across with black velvet ; small muslin cap with plaiting
a la vieille, black velvet round it, and a bow ; a gold cross
tied about the neck ; red and white striped stockings ; black
shoes.

W^AKEFIELD, FAMILY OF THE VICAR OF.
Olivia and Sophia Primrose wear quilted skirts, bodices
with elbow-sleeves and ruffles, muslin aprons, and kerchiefs. In
Maclise's picture, "Preparing Moses for the Fair," the two
sisters appear : one in a long quilted satin petticoat touching
the ground, a white muslin apron surrounded by frilling reach-
ing to the edge of the skirt ; a bodice and skirt all in one of
brocaded stuff or silk ; the skirt drawn away from the front and
caught up at the back, so that the inside is seen at the sides ;
there is a large bow at the back of the v/aist, the bodice is low,
and a muslin fichu crosses the shoulders, and is pinned down
to the waist in front ; a knot of ribbons on the dress ; a band
of black velvet with bow at the throat ; the sleeves come to
the elbow, and below is a puff of muslin and a frill ; the hair
is drawn away from the face, and a cap with a bow of
ribbons at the side is pinned to the back, so that the lace just
shows above the roll in front. The other sister has her hair
also drawn away from the face, wears a large ruff round the
throat, a white dress with a low bodice cut in one piece with

2 28 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

the skirt, a black lace shawl over her shoulders. Miss Teny,
when acting Olivia, wore several costumes ; one was a short
skirt bordered with a gathered puffing, a large white muslin
apron with lace-edged frilling ; a bunched-up tunic and low
bodice, a muslin fichu knotted in front showing a white
chemisette with frill ; the hair dressed very high, with curls
and the Olivia cap over it ; long white mittens. In another
dress Olivia wears a brocaded sacque opening to show a
distinct front breadth, and a long apron of figured net matching
the figured net fichu ; the hair in curls and no cap ; elbow-
sleeves and mittens. And then again she wears a hood, cape,
and white tippet. After the elopement, the sacque and front
breadth are of red brocade made with a pointed bodice, elbow-
sleeves, fichu, and muslin apron. The cap is most becoming.
It is made with a large full crown, a close double plaiting of
lace round, forming two scallops in front, like a window
curtain. High-heeled shoes are necessary parts of this cos-
tume. {See Plate IX., Fig. 35.) Mrs. Primrose, the Vicar's
wife, has also a quilted skirt touching the ground ; a train
looped over this so that it reaches to the edge of the skirt ;
a muslin kerchief tucked inside the low pointed bodice,
having merely straps across the front, the white muslin showing
through ; the sleeves come to the elbow, and on the head is a
black silk hood.

^WALLACHIAN PEASANT WOMAN. Blue cash-
mere short skirt embroidered with gold; stay bodice with
straps in blue, over muslin chemisette, the sleeves having
bands of scarlet ; a crimson satin sash with gold fringe round
the waist ; apron of many colours ; hair in long plaits, tied
with a ribbon ; small red cap embroidered in gold ; bracelet
and necklet of beads and coins.

W^ALLFLOWERS. (See Flowers.)

WAR. A classic dress (for style, see Cleopatra, Druidess,
Ancient Greek, &c.) made in flame colour, a flag and sword
in hand, erect wings attached to back.

WASHERWOMAN, LAUNDRESS, BLANCHIS-
SEUSE. Short skirt of yellow sateen, Avith a band of blue
sateen round it ; blue tunic, turned up i la laveuse, with
a piece of yellow ; blue bodice cut square, with fichu ; cap
and apron of clear muslin ; blue stockings ; black shoes ; an

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 229

iron at the side and a piece of soap. Sometimes for the
French laundress the dress is red and white striped print, with
a cambric cap. A Normandy cap would be correct; also
shoes to resemble sabots.

WASP. {See Bee, Hornet, Coloured Plate VII.)

WATER. WATER NYMPHS : Undine, Naiad,
Aquarium, Lorelei, Lurline, Mermaid, Sabrina,
Siren, Peri of Ocean, Amphitrite, Water- Lily,
Water- Witch, Sea Queen. All these are arranged much
the same ; viz., as a dress of frosted tulle, or silvered tulle
over green, looped up with seaweed, coral, shells, crystal, and
aquatic flowers, for the salt-water nymphs ; water-lilies and
grasses for those who rule over lakes and rivers, such as
Undine and Lurline. A veil of tulle to match the dress
hangs over the hair, which should be covered with frosting
powder, and be allowed to float about the shoulders. A
cuirass bodice of silver gauze, the tunic silver gauze, is a good
rendering of the character. The bodice, whether a cuirass or
made a la Vierge, should be trimmed with a fringe of the
shells, &c., the same in the hair, a dragonfly on one side.
The silver tulle that is used should be made as nearly as
possible to resemble water, an effect produced by waved stripes.
Diamonds, coral, and aquamarine with silver are the most
appropriate ornaments, and silver fringe wherever it can be
placed. Undine, the Nymph of the Rhine, has invariably
water-liUes intermixed with the rest, and often lotus-flowers, and
these should be dew-spangled. A Mermaid may be carried
out as follows : Over the green and white and silver skirt the
cuirass bodice should be made entirely of scales of mother-of-
pearl, or of cloth imitating fish-scales, coming down well on to
the hips. A girdle of seaweed, &c., is appropriate to all the
characters, and many of them have pendent sleeves bordered
with the same ; but no seaweed must be used on Lurline's or
Undine's costumes. For Aquarium, the dress should not only
be trimmed with marine plants, but with fish. Water-lily is
the same sort of dress, trimmed with water-lilies. "Water-
"Witch : Short white satin skirt, completely covered with
silver tissue and fringe ; low body to match ; scarf of sea-green
satin tied tightly over the hips, and fastening on one side,
powdered with silver cockle-shells and silver fish ; silver cockle-
shells in the hair.

230 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

WATER-CARRIER. Short, light pink skirt; light blue
tunic turned up in front ; low square muslin bodice ; over this,
a long jacket with revers and fastened with gold clasps down
the front ; high pointed hat ; pink and blue striped stockings ;
black shoes ; water pail in hand.

W^ATERCRESS GATHERER. White tulle dress
with garlands made of glistening green leaves in all the cress
shades, which are very numerous, from dead yellow to
brightest emerald ; basket of iattice-work, with sante dii corps
in green letters, carried in hand.

WATTEAU COSTUMES are so called because they
are supposed to reproduce the charming picturesque beings
dehneated by Watteau, who died in 172 1. A sacque in most
cases forms a part of these costumes. It is fastened to the
bodice (which is either high to the throat, or a low square at
the back) in a double box-plait. Som.etimes it is merely
attached at the top, and then falls loose, so that the body may
be seen distmct from the plait ; but more generally the plait
forms the back of the dress. The sacque may be tacked to the
front breadth, or it may be quite loose and distinct from the
skirt and bodice. Sometimes it is looped up as a tunic; or
sometimes reaches to the hem of the dress. The following is
a Watteau dress : High-heeled shoes, coming well up on the
instep, diamond buckles, silk stockings; a skirt of silk or
satin, often quilted, short or just touching the ground, or of
muslin with small plaited flounces to the waist ; a sacque of
silk with square-cut bodice, pointed in front, trimmed with
lace ; elbow-sleeves and ruffles ; narrow black velvet round
neck and wrists ; powdered hair ; a muslin apron. {See aha
Shepherdess, Poudre.) The coloured Illustration, Plate
XIV., is after a well-known Watteau picture in the Dulwich
Gallery. The sacque is quite distinct from the low-tabbed
bodice, a style which admits of a much easier flow of drapery,
and gives far more grace of movement when the minuet is
danced ; powdered hair and feather.

W^EALTH AND PROSPERITY. Dress and train
of gold and silver cloth, covered with jewels, and strings of
gold coins, with a gold crown,

W^EATHERCOCK. Dress of black lace over white
satin ; low bodice ; black gloves ; black velvet pointed cap
surmounted by a vane.

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 23 1

^WELSH COSTUMES differ in the different coun-
ties. The skirts or petticoats are of Welsh flannel ; the
tunics turned under at the back ; the bodices either open
heart-shape or are low. Many of the sleeves have a white
over-sleeve to elbow. A white apron and a small coloured
shawl across the shoulders are always worn, and a high beaver
hat over a cap. {See Plate XIV., Fig. 55.) The shapes
differ in North and South Wales, while at Swansea the cockle-
shell hat is made of straw, and has a flat crown. For fancy
balls the following Welsh dresses are suitable : Striped red
and black satin short skirt : upper-skirt and bodice of black
velvet, with revers of red satin ; white muslin neckerchief
tucked inside high hat ; mittens ; knitting in hand. Or, a
dark blue stuff skirt, striped red and black upper skirt, bunched
up ; black and white check apron ; tall beaver hat over cap.
Carmarthenshire Peasant : Plain red cloth skirt ; low purple
bodice; white muslin handkerchief tucked inside white cap;
white sleeves below elbow ; short white apron ; mittens.

'WHAT-A-TAIL. Skirt of drab plush; bodice of
feathers ; cap like head of the bird.

WHEAT- EAR. Green satin bodice and tunic over gold-
coloured tulle skirt, the tunic embroidered with wheat-ears, and
looped up with the same ; coronet of the same in hand.

WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO, MY PRETTY

MAI D ? A pink cotton dress, and blue apron caught up on
one side nearly to the waist; puffed full sleeves above the elbow;
a white kerchief open at the breast ; a large shady sun-bonnet,
with a long point in front, and a milk-pail in the left hand.

WHIG, THE LITTLE {younger daughter of the grea
Duke of Marlborough). Petticoat of yellow satin with point
lace flounces, and headings of pearls ; green velvet pointed
bodice and train bordered with ermine ; high head-dress with
yellow gauze twisted in hair ; patches.

WHITE CAT. Short white silk, cashmere, or satin skirt,
edged with several rows of white fur or swansdown ; low square
or high jacket bodice, similarly trimmed at the back; from the
shoulders hangs a loose white fur mantle ; head-dress, a cap of
white fur, like a cat's head, with ears and red bead eyes ; round
the neck either a red collar and bells, pr a red collar with the
words "Touch not the cat but with the glove." It is optional

232 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

whether the hair be powdered, but it looks better. High white
satin boots bordered with fur, and long gloves edged with fur,
hanging at side ; kitten perched on shoulder ; fan painted
with cat.

"WHITE CHINA. White satin dress made after the
fashion of a Watteau China figure, trimmed with lace, white
roses and pearls, the YidSx poudre.

"WHITE DRESS. Pure white dresses at balls are much
the fashion. {See White Lady of Avenel, for example,
PowDER-PuFF, the Lace and Cotton Trades.) The follow-
ing are also good : The Ghost of Queen Elizabeth,
the costume of the time, all white ; white rose leaves, white
hyacinth, white butterfly ; a French Peasant in white
cambric jacket and skirt ; white cap, apron, and stockings; and
a 'White "Witch, carried out in white satin and gauze, with
white velvet bodice ; white ruff stomacher of silver cloth ; and
sugar-loaf hat, worn over poudre hair, with electric star on
forehead; silver broomstick and cauldron. Snowflakes,
white velvet bodice, and spangled tulle veil, with swansdown
on tulle skirt. {See Hoar-frost.) Sweet Seventeen :
soft white muslin dress made with short waist, broad white
sash, small puffed sleeves, long white mittens ; white sandalled
shoes ; hair powdered ; white satin bag suspended from arm.
{See Milliner, White ; Miller's Daughter, and Maid.)

WHITE LADY OF AVENEL. A long dress of
some soft white material, crepe, gauze, or tulle, one skirt
over another ; the low full bodice drawn with a string at the
neck, without tucker ; shoulder-straps with wing-like sleeves at
the back, falling on skirt ; flowing veil ; the hair loose, an
old-fashioned bodkin or hairpin thrust through it ; a gold girdle
confines the waist.

WHIST. Red satin skirt and bodice bordered with
playing cards ; scarf of white gauze crossing the bodice and
falling on the skirt with clubs, spades, diamonds, and hearts
scattered over it in red and black ; bracelets, necklet, and
earrings, in enamel, with the same devices.

WIDOW W^ADMAN. Large white muslin cap, sur-
rounded by black velvet band and broad lace frill, fastened
under chin, velvet bow at side ; black dress, large open sleeves,
with broad lace ; bodice, low square, filled in with folds , of
white Swiss muslin, terminating in front under the dress.

WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 233

^WIFE OF BATH {Chaucer). Striped stuff skirt; close
fitting blue bodice ; beaver hat, with muslin kerchief knotted
above the brim, and one tied beneath the chin, the other
falling under the hat ; distaff carried in the hand.

■WILD FLOWERS. {See Flowers.)

WILL-O'-THE-WISP. Flowing hair falling over black
fashionably-made evening dress ; tiny lantern carried in hand ;
star of electric light in the centre of the forehead.

W^INDMILL. {See Moulin-A-Vent.)

WINTER, CHRISTMAS, DECEMBER, SNOW,
FROST, ICE, ICICLE, HOLLY, &c. These are
carried out with a fashionably-made white tulle evening dress
and veil, either of crystal-spangled tulle or tulle covered
with tufts of swansdown or white wadding. For Winter,
December, and Christmas, holly leaves, ivy, and
mistletoe and berries; Christmas roses and a robin appear
on the head, shoulders, and dress. Sometimes the dress is
black, tufted with swansdown. December is also rendered as
a pale blue gown fringed with icicles ; blue-grey cloak on
shoulders ; or sometimes with black tulle and tufts of swans-
down and holly. Snow and Frost have icicles and glittering
crystal drops, with crystal fringe introduced. Satin is more
suitable with the tulle than silk, and bands of swansdown make
admirable trimmings. Silver is often used, but crystal is more
appropriate, though a tunic and bodice of silver cloth
veiled in tulle has a good effect for Frost and Snow.
The hair should float on the shoulders, and be ^covered
with frosting powder. Satin shoes, and long gloves bordered
with swansdown. For a Snow-storm on a Dark Night,
black is used instead of white, trimmed with jet and swans-
down. Fans painted with snow-scenes and robins are
suitable for any of these dresses. Sometimes blue satin
is worn with the white, but it does not make the dress so
distinctive. The adoption of a blue-grey mantle, covered with
tufts of swansdown, is meant to show that winter is not always
bright. Crystal or diamond ornaments are the most appro-
priate. Or, dress of green satin, bordered with twigs and
evergreens; marabout feathers scattered over skirt and bodice;
a veil treated in the same way enveloping the figure.
An Arctic Maiden or Arctic Queen wears the same
style of white dress, trimmed with tufts of swansdown, and

234 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

forked with tongues of talc cloth to imitate icicles ; white
veil ; a white wand in the hand. Arctic Queen, the same,
with crystal crown. {See January.)

WITCH. {See Hubbard, Mother; Macbeth, and
Coloured Illustration, Plate XV.) Short quilted skirt of red
satin, with cats and lizards in black velvet ; gold satin panier
tunic; black velvet bodice laced over an old-gold crepe bodice;
small cat on right shoulder, a broom in the hand, with owl ;
tall pointed velvet cap ; shoes with buckles.

W^ITCH, WHITE. {See White Dresses.)

W^OMAN, OLD, WHO LIVED IN A SHOE.

Short, black quilted satin skirt ; Watteau sacque of flowered
chintz, cut square in front, with elbow- sleeves ; a mob cap,
and a large high-heeled scarlet satin shoe, trimmed with gold
-cord slung across the shoulders, with small dolls ; a rod in
hand.

WOOD NYMPH. Green tulle evening dress, trimmed
with leaves, wild flowers, blackberries, hips, acorns, &c.,
forming a fringe round the train or tunic, a bird nestling here
and there. The skirt should be bordered with a putting, out
of which peep violets, primroses, and other spring flowers, and
so arranged that they seem to grow ; the bodice must be
trimmed to match. Flowers to be placed in the hair, which
should float on the shoulders, beneath a veil of green tulle.
Natural ivy may be used on this dress ; each leaf should be
painted over with oil, and thoroughly dried; this makes
them bright and shiny.

WOODLAND WHISPERS. Short brown stuff gown,
and straw hat all trimmed with flowers ; a squirrel on the
shoulders.

WORK-BOX. A short red quilted skirt; blue tunic
round the hack, formed with pins, the rhyme, " Needles and
pins, needles and pins, when a man marries his trouble begins."
A white linen apron, the end turned up to form a square
pocket, in which are needles, pins, tapes, cotton cord, scissors,
&c. ; bodice to match ; muslin cap and fichu.

WURTEMBURG, PEASANT OF. Full plaited skirt,
over another rather larger ; belt of silver braid ; red stockings,
and shoes with buckles ; gilt comb ; close-fitting black cap ;
hair plaited in two long tresses and tied with ribbon ; white

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WHAT TO WEAR AT FANCY BALLS. 235

chemisette, with stomacher of crimson velvet or cloth over
black bodice ; black open jacket with long sleeves.

YACHTS. Many balls are now given at our seaports,
where the dresses of the ladies are supposed to represent
yachts ; scarves carried across the bodice denoting the name,
such as the Sivallow, the Raven, and so on. Sometimes a
white tulle gown is simply draped with flags and the burgee ;
or if American or other vessels are meant, the national flag
falls from one shoulder. {See Flags, H.M.S. Polyphemus,
and Nova Scotia.)

YEAR, OLD AND NEW. Full short skirt of white
satin ; low bodice with sash about waist ; hours printed
round the skirt ; calendar with the old year on one side, the
new year on the other.

YEAR, OLD. Quilted satin petticoat, hours printed or
tacked round it ; scythe fastened to the side or carried in the
hand ; hair powdered ; large pointed hat with the date of
year in front, partially hidden by gauze. The wearer should
assume to be old and infirm ; a clock on left side of dress ;,
tunic of dress black, with silver letters teUing of any remarkable
occurrences of the old year.

YEAR, NEW. Radiant young girl in heyday of youth
wearing plain long full satin skirt, with hours in silver round
it ; silver cord about waist ; bodice full ; pendent sleeves from
elbow, caught up with roses ; wreath of roses and veil in hair.

YSEULTE OF IRELAND. Under-skirt of olive-
green velvet, embroidered with silver ; under-sleeves of prim-
rose-coloured nun's cloth ; bodice tight fitting, fastened at the
back; veil of pale yellow Indian muslin bound to hair by diadem
of silver ; antique silver baldric with large pouch bag of olive,
velvet worked with silver, and lined with silver primrose ;
olive velvet shoes ; no gloves ; antique bracelet and necklet
of silver.

ZELICA (Lalla RookJi). White satin petticoat, richly
embroidered with gold, over-skirt and bodice of red satin, cut
low at neck in a point ; gold-embroidered white zouave jacket
over it, bordered with gold lace and fringe ; a jewelled girdle
and silk scarf round waist ; gold-spangled musfin trousers to
knee ; bracelets on wrist and round upper portion of arm ;
anklets on ankles ; a Persian cap of crimson and gold, hair
in plaits, entwined with pearls.

Q

236 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

ZENOBIA. Full Greek robe of deep red India muslin ;
veil of fine gauze ; diadem ; sandals ; jewelled fan.

ZERLINA {Don Giovanni). A Spanish dress. {See
Spanish Lady.) Short white satin skirt, trimmed with black
lace, ornamented with gold and cerise ; Spanish bodice of
black satin, braided with gold ; gold dagger ; black lace man-
tilla ; crimson roses.

ZINGARI. {See Gipsy.)

ZITELLA. Red cap with coins ; black velvet bodice
and red waistcoat, embroidered and laced with gold ; red
gold-embroidered tunic, studded with coins and bound with
black velvet, and bordered with gold fringe ; petticoat of black
velvet, with broad band of hieroglyphics in- gold, and gold
fringe ; silk sash in red, gold, and black.

ZURICH. {See Swiss.)

APPENDIX.

GIRLS' AND BOYS' FANCY COSTUMES.

Juvenile Fancy Balls are much the fashion, and the current
is setting towards all that is quaint and picturesque. Some of
the best dresses worn by young people are suggested by
the illustrated books, fairy tales, and other works of fiction,
specially written for them.

Among suitable costumes for little girls are Rainbow, Air,
Puritan, Fille de Madame Angot, Portia, Alphabet, Babes in the
Wood, Little Bayadere, Beauty, Bertrade, Bee, Wasp, Bo-peep,
Gipsy, Buy-a-broom, Charity Girl, Charlotte Corday, Children
of Charles I. {see Charles), Cinderella, College Girl, Columbine,
Daffy-down-Dilly, Diablotin, Dolly Varden, Dresden China,
Evangeline, Fairy, Fatima, Fish-girls, Flower-girls, Folly, Ger-
maine, Serpolette, Grace Darling, Mother Hubbard, Harvest,
Harlequinette, Jill, Ladybird, Magpie, Maid Marian, Maiden-
all-Forlorn, Mary-Mary-Quite-Contrary, May Queen, Milkmaid,
My-pretty-Maid, Naiad, Undine, Nancy Lee, Lady-of-Olden-
Time, Preciosa, Quakeress, Rat-catcher, Reading, Reaper, Red
Riding-Hood, One-of-the-Rising-Generation, Characters after
Sir Joshua Reynolds, The Seasons, Shepherdess, Witch,
Spinning-girl, Tambourine-girl, Lady Teazle, Titania, Olivia
and Sophia Primrose, Vivandieres, Watteau dresses, Welsh,
and White Cat ; particulars of which will be found under the
several letters in the body of the book.

The costumes we have described in the Introduction as
capable of being made at home for gentlemen will apply
equally well for boys. Some of the most effective dresses
worn by boys, especially those of tender years, have been
exact copies of Napoleon, the Lord Mayor, the Lord
Chancellor, the Lord Chief Justice of England, &c.

Q 2

238 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

ALICE IN WONDERLAND. The characters in this
popular tale are greatly in favour with children. Alice is
dressed in low bodiced white muslin short frock with sash.
The Lion and Unicorn as faithful copies of their pictures.
The March Hare in a brown coat and waistcoat, with hare's
head and feet. White Rabbit in a check suit, with rabbit's
head and feet. Cheshire Cat in a coat of chinchilla. The
Duchess in a pale rose-coloured over-dress with lilac front
trimmed with ermine ; large head-dress of ermine ; pendent
veil. The Rose in satin rose leaves mounted as a Mother
Hubbard hat ; and the bodice and skirt like rose leaves ;
sleeves and bodice, green satin. Lily, the flower for head-
dress ; bodice and skirt of yellow silk, brown border to skirt.
The Caterpillar is cleverly adapted from Tenniel's sketches,
with green cap, and leg coverings like a caterpillar. The
Chess Men are faithful copies of the pieces in chess.
Cards, after those in the pack. {See Q, for Queens of the
Pack.) Kings, with gold crowns, velvet robes, and the insignias
of the suits.

ARCITE (Chaucer). Juste-au-corps of brown moire
antique ; gold belt ; dark blue trunk hose.

ASTROLOGER. Long velvet toga, with wide hanging
sleeves, bordered with satin, bearing the signs of the zodiac in
gold ; high pointed velvet cap, entwined with a gold snake ;
wizard's wand, large spectacles, book, and telescope; long
pointed shoes.

BABY BUNTING. Suitable for a very small child,
who wears a tunic and cap combined, with upstanding ears,
and an under-dress all made of white fur.

BABY OPERA {By Walter Crane). The costumes in
this are very suitable for children. Musicians in tabards,
the stockings of two colours; shoes, square toed. King
Cole : Fat burly figure ; loose brown dress ; flowing robe,
with ermine ; large beard, and regal cap. Boy : Trousers
to knee ; loose shirt ; hat with band round ; trumpet in hand.
Girls and Boys at Play : The girls in hats ; low
bodices, slashed sleeves ; long plain skirts, sometimes with
coloured apron and kerchief Charity Girls in blue frocks,
with caps and tippets. Mrs. Bond : Poke bonnet ; short
sleeves ; coloured handkerchief; chintz dress. Jack

APPENDIX. 239,

Horner : Blue cap ; slashed jacket, with three rows of
buttons ; breeches. Bo-peep : Blue apron ; chintz dress ;
crook in hand.

BABES IN THE W^OOD. The girl wears an evening
dress of green and white tulle, with over-skirt of silver-spangled
tulle, covered with autumn leaves, garlands of foliage, and
robins ; the hair hanging down, head encircled by a wreath of
leaves. The boy has long red stockings and puffed trunks
striped with blue ; a close-fitting red jerkin, cut in tabs at the
waist ; the tight sleeves with epaulettes also cut in tabs ; round
cap ; materials velvet and satin.

BEAU, OLD FASHIONED {See Plate XV., Fig. 59).
Long skirted coat ; silk stockings, high boots, breeches, and
waistcoat ; hat, and stick ; watch and seals.

BEAST. {Fairy Prince, as worn by Duke of Connaught
at Marlborough House Ball,) Ruby velvet doublet ; grey satin
tights ; ruby shoes ; a leopard's skin, with claws attached to
shoulders with jewels ; small round ruby cap and feather.

BEAUTY, SLEEPING. Long robe of white and silver
trimmed with pearls ; pearl girdle ; hair flowing.

BEAUTY {In Beauty and the Beast) in the Fairy-tale
Quadrille, at Marlborough House, wore a white tulle dress,
full bodice, belt, and pendent sleeves ; a classic robe of soft
cashmere trimmed with gold is also suitable

BECKFORD, MASTER HORACE {From Coswafs
Picture). High hat and feathers ; hair hanging down in curls ;
tight jacket and breeches; with lace collar and turn back cuffs ;
silk stockings and shoes ; scarves tied round leg, with bows on
outside of leg ; stick in hand.

BEEF-EATER {or Yeoman of the Guard), Long-skirted
scarlet Tudor coat, trimmed with black velvet and gold, crown
and Tudor rose embroidered on breast ; close plaited muslin
ruff at throat ; full sleeves to wrist ; low-crowned black velvet
hat, blue, red, and white ribbons round ; rosettes of the same
on black shoes and at the knees of breeches ; red stockings ;
sword in belt, halberd carried in hand.

BETTY, LADY. Large hat, with upstanding brim and
five red feathers ; short princesse dress, with square bodice ;
long cloak from shoulders ; large green parasol.

240 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

BIRDS, such as parrots, canaries, love-birds, and others,
are very suitable for children. They have all been described
under their several heads, in the body of the book.

BLUEBEARD. Flowing Eastern robe ; red silk turban ;
scarf of many colours round waist; loose silk trousers to
ankle, one yellow the other red ; red pointed shoes ; beard,
blue ; carries key.

BOY BLUE. Dressed as Gainsborough's Blue Boy.
Black shoes, with large blue rosettes ; the same at knee ; blue
stockings and velvet breeches ; close-fitting jacket, buttoning
in front ; blue cloak, fastened to shoulders, bordered with gold
braid; the sleeves to wrist, with Vandyke lace cuffs, and
slashed twice inside the arm, showing white under-sleeve ;
large lace collar; plumed hat; hair curled.

BUCKINGHAM, JOHN VILLIERS, FIRST
DUKE OF, DAUGHTER OF {afier Gerard Horn-
thorst). White satin dress with a Medici ruff of point lace,
the puff sleeves edged with tiny lace ruffles and taken in with
pink ribbons tied into bows; waistband and front bow are
formed of ribbons of the same colour ; the bell-shaped under-
skirt is, like the bodice, arranged in narrow plaits, and the
over-skirt opens in front. The latter appears, in the original
at Hampton Court, to be made of silver-striped gauze or
muslin, which could be replaced by rose-coloured silk or velvet;
strings of pearls form the necklace and the armlets, and a
chain of jet beads hangs across the bust.

BUNTHORN {Patience). Velvet jacket and breeches ;
large flat velvet cap, wiih wig of long hair beneath ; velvet
shoes, and silk stockings.

BUTTERFLY {For child of two to three). Short skirt
of blue foulard, with an over-skirt of gauze ; low bodice, with
a waistband fastened in front with bows ; two wings are
attached to the middle of back, made of gauze, edged with
fine wire ; silk stockings ; blue satin boots. Or, Canndian
Butterfly : Bodice of green plush elongated into a point
which falls on to the short yellow tulle skirt ; short, puffed
sleeves ; gauze wings at back forming tunic ; butterfly on head ;
green gloves and shoes with butterflies ; butterfly fan. {See
Coloured Illustration, Plate XVI.)

CAN AGE {Chaucer). Dress of terra cotta silk, close

APPENDIX. 241

fitting ; long pointed shoes of old gold satin ; hair plaited
round the ear ; silver coronet ; gold veil ; falcon on wrist.

CAVALIER DRESS {For hoy, after Von Hughenburg).
Dutch type. Broad-brimmed Flemish hat, with ostrich
feathers ; doublet and waistcoat ; breeches to knee ; sword-
belt crossing bodice ; tie at throat ; hat and plumes j shoes
with bows ; gauntlet gloves.

CHARLES I. AND HIS CAVALIERS. Doublet
and loose full trunks of velvet, slashed with satin ; pointed
shoes or large cavalier boots, wide at top, edged with a fall of
lace ; velvet shoulder-cloaks ; Vandyke lace collars and cuffs ;
large plumed hats ; hair in curls. The king wears his blue
ribbon, and star on breast.

CHERRY RIPE, in large mob cap, muslin dress and
fichu, with ribbon sash, and mittens, after Millais's picture.

CHRISTMAS, FATHER. Long loose robe of white,
red, or brown, the shoulders covered with tufts of frosted
wadding ; a belt round waist ; wallet, staff, white hair and
beard ; holly wreath.

CLOWN {Ordinary). Black or white shoes, white stock-
ings with blue or red clocks ; short white calico trousers with
frills at knee, and close-fitting dress fantastically ornamented
with blue and red ; face painted white, triangular patches of
red on either cheek, very red lips ; close curling stiff red
point from back of head, which shakes at every movement.
(In Louis XV's reign). Loose trousers to knee ; full jacket
with large collar, confined at waist by belt ; sleeves to wrist,.
with pendent ones over the hand, all made in white cotton or
merino piped with red, and large red buttons in front ; white
felt pointed hat, with coloured ribbons.

COCK ROBIN. Short brown pleated skirt, with rows
of Marabout feathers ; round bodice with pointed basque at
the back, like the tail of a bird, made of feathers or plush > red
waistcoat, high collar ; red necktie ; cap with a peak as much
like a bird's head as possible.

CONSCRIPT. Long kid gaiters fastened with buttons
to the knee ; yellow breeches with gold embroidery at the
pockets ; red cloth coat with yellow epaulettes, cuffs, and
facings ; Lancer cap.

242 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

COLE, KING. {See Baby Opera.)

COLUMBINE. Pink silk stockings, white satin shoes;
tulle skirt, short and full ; cuirass bodice bordered with flowers ;
wreath of flowers in hand.

COOK, BOY, All in white; shoes, stockings, knee-
breeches ; loose blouse, with frilled collar; round cap; apron,
the corner tucked in at waist.

CUPID. Dress of blue and silver gauze, smothered in
roses ; bow and arrow, and silver gauze wings.

CURLY LOCKS. This should be adopted by a child
with hair in ringlets. She wears a blue frock with white quilted
front, and large lace collar.

DICK TURPI N. Scarlet coat and waistcoat, with gold
T3raid and buttons ; lace cravat and ruffles ; high jack-boots ;
leather breeches; three-cornered hat and flowing wig; belt
.and pistols.

DUTCH FISHER BOY. Wooden shoes; full
breeches, coarse knitted stockings ; striped blouse ; red tie
and cap. {See Plate XVI., Fig. 62.)

FAIRY. {See description in body of book, and Illustra-
tion, Plate XVI., Fig. 61.)

FRANCIS I. A flat-brimmed cap, sometimes jewelled,
and always bordered with an ostrich feather ; doublet of plain
or figured silk, with slashed puff sleeves to the elbow, and
tight to the wrist ; over the doublet a breastplate as part
armour ; Norman chausses or hose, striped and fitting exactly
to the limbs ; broad-toed shoes with slashed tips.

FERAMOZ {Poet of Cashmere). White gauze and silver
turban, with jewels ; satin jacket embroidered, having hanging-
over sleeves ; under-vest and sleeves of brocade ; full white
lawn shirt, showing Indian scarf round waist ; velvet breeches,
with silver buttons to the knee; silk stockings, small low shoes ;
a guitar in hand.

FIANCE, VILLAGE {Boy). Striped blue and white
silk trousers, silk stockings of a darker shade of blue ; black
shoes with buckles ; red silk waistcoat ; white shirt ; dark blue
cloth jacket, with re vers and large buttons ; large bouquet of
flowers, fastened to the jacket with a bunch of ribbons ; high

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APPENDIX. 243

collar ; silk necktie ; grey hat trimmed with blue ribbons and
aigrette ; cane in hand.

FIGARO {Barber of Seville). Dark green velvet Spanish
jacket embroidered in silver ; white satin waistcoat ; green
velvet breeches with pink ribbons; pink sash with silver fringe,
and necktie ; Spanish hat ; pink bows on shoes, white silk
stockings ; mandoline in hand.

FLY COSTUME FOR BOY OF FOUR. Golden
yellow satin skirt, ornamented with black braid and studded
with small gauze flies. The short upper skirt forms a sort of
long basque, and is sewn to the waistband ; rows of gold braid
across the high bodice, and round the short sleeves ; loose
jacket ornamented with gauze ; fly in the centre of back, and
smaller ones in front ; black velvet toque, with gold band
round, a gold fly fastening down aigrette.

GAINSBOROUGH {after Lady Barbara Yelverton),
A plain white muslin gown, with short sleeves, having ruches
at the neck and elbows of rose-coloured or blue ribbons ;
a large sash of corresponding colour tied round the waist ;
an elaborately-trimmed lace cap. Suitable for a girl of ten.

GARIBALDI. Red shirt and grey trousers, with silver
stripe ; large felt hat with ostrich feather.

GOBLIN. Tight-fitting justaucorps of red ; red Vandyke
tunic ; winged hood with cape ; fork in hand. {See Coloured
Plate XVI.)

GREEK {Boy). White plaited fustanetta, or petticoat,
wide silk belt, ornamented with gold ; short embroidered vest,
buttoned at throat ; jacket ; full trousers to knee, and gaiters ;
fez ; dagger stuck in belt. Made in satin, cashmere, or cloth.

GREEK GIRL'S DRESS. Skirt of wood-coloured
llama or nun's veiling, braided with gold ; green velvet jacket,
slashed and edged with gold braid ; flowing muslin sleeves ;
necklet of gold leaves ; hair in plaits ; small round cap.

GRENADIER (1760). High white gaiters buttoned to
knee ; blue coat turned back with red ; red cuff's ; white
waistcoat and breeches ; red and white pointed cap ; sword ;
hair in pigtail. {See Plate XVI., Fig. 6^.)

GREEN AWAY, KATE. Reproductions of little people
after this charming artist are much in favour at children's Fancy

244 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

Balls. For girls, narrow skirts with one deep flounce and
puffings, showing the sandalled shoes ; very short waists ;
turn-down frills at neck ; short sleeves, having one puff.
Boys, long trousers, buttoning over the jacket ; large linen
collar, frilled, &c. The current in fancy dress is decidedly
setting toward all that is quaint and picturesque, and savours
of what we are pleased to call old English. Some of the
most successful costumes worn by children of late have been
copied from Kate Greenaway's " Birthday-Book," &c. Little
figures, in plain short skirts ; tunics open in front, and looped
up at the sides ; square bodices, elbow-sleeves, and powdered
hair ; James I. and Elizabethan periods. Miss Roundabout,
and the Schoolboy, — all these are excellent.

HAMLET. Long black cloth cloak; scalloped black
velvet jerkin trimmed with jet, black velvet sword-belt, and
bonnet with black plume ; black silk tights, black velvet shoes
slashed with satin.

HARLEQUINETTE. (See Illustration XV., Fig. 60,
and descriptions in body of book.)

HEARTS, KING OF. Red and white striped stockings;
blue justaucorps, cut in points, and covered with hearts ; a
large satin collar, in shape of two hearts ; red cap, with hearts;
tight and hanging sleeves ; sceptre with hearts.

HEARTS, QUEEN OF. Red velvet princess dress
with hearts, square cut at neck ; sceptre in one hand, bouquet
in other ; pointed cap.

HENRY VI. wears a felt hood or bonnet, with short
tippet and single feather ; a doublet of braided silk, cut round
even with the shoulders, a separate scarf covering the latter ;
loose sleeves, trimmed with fur ; tight hose ; high boots of
brown leather, long-toed and spurred.

HERALD. White felt hat with feather; the tabard coat
yellow, green, or blue, with the arms embroidered in gold or
silver, and a shoulder jacket of contrasting colour ; tight silk
hose ; trousers striped or parti-coloured ; and a trumpet.

HIGHLAND PIPER. Boots, white gaiters, plaid
stockings ; kilted skirt ; sporran ; uniform coat ; plaid,
fastened with brooch on left shoulder ; bagpipes.

INCROYABLE. Short-waisted long brown coat, with
wide lapels ; yellow satin waistcoat ; cloth breeches having

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APPENDIX. 245

blue ties at knee ; striped stockings and shoes ; a watch and
watch-chain hanging at both sides; lace frills at wrist and
neck ; large necktie ; cocked hat.

IRISH CAR DRIVER. Green coat patched with
cloth, brass buttons ; brocaded waistcoat ; drab breeches with
patches ; high collar, and red tie ; blue darned stockings ;
leather shoes ; hat trimmed with green and sprigs of shamrock.

ITALIAN. Stockings crossed over with coloured ribbon;
blue cloth breeches, buckled at the side ; a leather waistcoat
fastened with silver, steel or leather buttons, and cut low and
straight, showing the shirt ; a short jacket bordered with gold,
and a pointed hat with ribbons ; coins and amulets. The
PifTerarij in addition, have a long brown caped cloak, and
carry their musical pipes. The Italian Fishermen of
Naples and Barri, Masaniello, &c., are represented
with silk tights, striped trousers rolled up well over the knee ;
a shirt of the same, open at the neck to show gold charms ; ear-
rings in the ears ; a red or brown cap ; and a brown jacket
slung from the shoulders ; a scarf round waist.

JACK HORNER. Blue breeches; a long waistcoat;
long-skirted red coat, with gold buttons down the front, and
on the wide turn-back cuffs and pockets ; a black tricorn hat
bordered with gold braid ; a plum dangling from the watch-
chain.

JACK (JACK AND JILL). Smock frock and round
felt hat. Or, breeches and long waistcoat, long-skirted coat of
velvet, cambric shirt, velvet cape, ruff at throat, red rosette on
each cuff and corner of coat. (See Jill.)

JAMES ED^WARD, PRINCE, SON OF JAMES IL

{a//er N. de Largilliere). He died in Paris, 1746. The
costume of the Prince of Wales resembles the one worn
by courtiers towards the end of Charles IPs reign. Wig
formally curled, and no longer flowing ; three-corned hat,
low in the crown and wide in the brim, with feather
edging; a neckcloth or cravat of Brussels or Flanders
lace, tied in a knot under the chin, the ends hanging down
square; short doublet or coat of dark green, blue, or drab
cloth, with buttons and buttonholes all down the front, the
cuffs and pockets similarly adorned ; the skirts of the coat
terminating above the knees, and its sleeves reaching to the
elbows, with shirt sleeves bulging out, ruffed and adorned

246 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

profusely with ribbons and lace ; short trousers of dark velvet,
loose to the knees, with a fringe of lace or a cambric edging ;
blue or scarlet silk stockings, with silver clocks ; high-heeled,
lace-edged shoes, with diminutive buckles in front, fastening
a lace bow to the instep.

PRINCESS LOUISA MARIA, DAUGHTER OF
JAMES II. {after N. de Largilliere). A quaint and formal
costume. The hair, which under Charles II. had been
permitted to fall in natural ringlets upon the shoulders, is
covered with a tower head-dress, or conwiode, in three tiers
of lace, ribbons, and ruches ; the waist is confined in a
pointed bodice of silk, cut square, with a lace stomacher in
front ; short sleeves, with a cuff and lace bow at the elbow,
leave the forearm bare ; the black silk petticoat is covered
in front with a lace apron ; and an ample over-skirt, with long
train made of coloured damask, falls from the shoulders.

JESTER, FOOL, AND FOLLY. Pointed shoes;
tights, the legs of different colours ; parti-coloured short full
trunks ; close-fitting habit with basque cut in points bordered
with gold, a bell at each point ; sleeves with the same points
and bells ; hood, with cape of two colours, also cut in points ;
a fool's bauble in the hand. Red and blue is the usual
mixture, also green and gold, amber and blue, amber and
violet.

JOCRISSE. Jacket and knee breeches of puce-coloured
satin ; waistcoat of strawberry plush ; buckled shoes ; silk
Madras handkerchief round the throat, high linen collar ; gold
buttons ; puce felt hat.

JOCKEY. Top-boots ; satin breeches ; jacket and cap
of two colours ; whip in hand.

JOHN BULL. Top-boots and breeches; long coat;
low-crowned hat.

JOHN, LITTLE. Green cloth doublet trimmed with
squirrel fur ; green breeches slashed with satin ; white and
green satin sleeves, under the pendent ones belonging to a
doublet of green silk ; green stockings and buckskin shoes ;
green velvet cap with eagle feather ; hunting-horn and knife.

KING {Sing a Song of Sixpence). Long flowing mantle
trimmed with gold braid or fur ; puffed satin dress ; breeches
and silk stockings below ; diadem on head.

APPENDIX. 247

MALTA, KNIGHT OF. Silk shoes and stockings;
black puffed trousers and jacket with ruff; red round cloak
to waist, bordered gold braid, a cross on either side ; flowing
hair, hat, and feather. A ruff and cloak over boy's ordinary
dress would suffice, if a saving of time and trouble be an
object.

MALTESE WATER-CARRIER {Boy). Sabots,
blue stockings, white trousers; red silk sash; blue jersey, striped
jacket, red cap barrel ; and cup. {See Coloured Plate XVI.)

MARLBOROUGH, DUKE OF. Full wig; large lace
neckcloth; hanging cuffs and ruffles ; square-cut coat and long-
flapped waistcoat; a sash over the right shoulder; blue or scarlet
silk stockings, with gold or silver clocks, drawn high up over
the knee; square-toed shoes, with high heels and small buckles.

MARQUIS, LOUIS XVI. Blue velvet coat and
breeches embroidered in gold ; lace sleeves and cravat ; white
satin vest embroidered in gold ; three-cornered hat edged with
gold lace, having white plume ; shoes with diamond buckles ;
sword.

MARQUIS , OF CARABAS. Tights; velvet shoes;
velvet dress bordered with gold ; belt round waist ; hanging
sleeves ; large hat and feather.

MASHER. Suitable for a boy of very tender years,
who appears in the exact counterpart of a man's dress suit.

MEPHISTOPHELES {Faust). Silk tights, full short
trunks round hips ; tight-fitting habit ; short cloak attached to
shoulders ; a cap with two upstanding feathers like horns.
This is generally carried out entirely in red velvet, or in scarlet
satin and black velvet.

MERCURY. Mantle attached to shoulders, and drawn
through the girdle at the waist ; peplum and skirt all made in
white veiling ; caduces carried in the hand ; sandals laced up
the leg ; wings on the cap and heels.

MERE MICHEL {French Mother Hubbard). Gown
of flowered chintz ; white linen apron ; check handkerchief
about the neck ; white muslin cap ; spectacles; blue stockings ;
feather broom in hand.

MIGNON OF THE COURT OF HENRY III.

A capital dress, and easily made for a young boy. Black

248 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

shoes, white stockings ; full knickerbockers to the knee ; a
blouse, confined at the waist by a belt, long full sleeves to
wrist ; a shoulder-cloak, and round cap made of striped satin
or calico ; a close muslin ruff at the throat.

MISS MUFFET. Pale blue dress trimmed with gold
lace ; spider in cap.

MONK. Long brown ample robe, with wide sleeves, and
a cord round the waist. The Franciscans have a small cape
and hood ; the Capuchins' cape is as large as that of an Inver-
ness wrapper. Rosary at side.

MUSICIANS. {See Baby Opera.)

NIGHT AND MORNING {Boy). Half black, half
white satin tights, juste-au-corps, and round hat ; the face
half black, the hair powdered on one side ; one glove black
one white ; the same with shoes.

NURSERY RHYMES. See description in body of
book.

OLDEN TIME, GENTLEMAN OF. Silk stock-
ings; shoes with buckles ; knee breeches ; very long flowered
waistcoat, with flap pockets; long coat, steel buttons, and
ruffles ; a frill to shirt ; bald head or white hair ; a stick in
the hand.

PAGE {The Betrothed). Tights; long skirted habit;
sleeves with double puffs, slashed from elbow ; wide lace collar.
{Tetnp. Charles I.) Velvet coat and breeches, with ribbon
rosettes ; silk stockings, shoes with bows ; Vandyke collar and
cuffs ; satin-lined coat ; large hat and feather ; all to be of the
one tone. (7^^;;^/. Elizabeth.) Silk stockings ; trunks; satin
habit and shoulder-cloak, elaborately braided ; ruff and low-
crowned hat.

PANGLOSS, DR. A black velvet suit in the Georgian
style, with long skirted coat and waistcoat ; white wig and
spectacles.

PAUL PRY. High boots, trousers of red and white
striped calico, tucked into them ; waistcoat to match, with
large watch and chain, powdered bag-wig, blue tail-coat and
brass buttons, umbrella under arm.

PICARDY, PEASANT OF. National head-dress—a
broad silk ribbon gaily embroidered, ruched with muslin on

APPENDIX.

249

top and bottom, and stretched over a shape of cardboard ;
white chemise, with a broad-belted and embroidered bodice of
black velvet over it ; red or blue petticoat, bordered with
gold or silver leaves ; lace trimmed white apron and striped
stockings.

PIEMAN, in white suit and apron ; cook's white cap.

PILLAR POST. (See Illustration, Plate XV., Fig. 57,
and description in body of book.)

PIRATES OF PENZANCE. Frederick. In un-
dress uniform. One of the Daughters, dress high to
throat, with ruff, belt at waist ; high mob cap. Pirate King,
cocked hat ; coat with epaulettes ; plaited petticoat and loose
under-bodice; belt with pistols ; stockings, and shoes ; banner
with death's head and cross-bones. Ruth, short embroidered
gown, sash of many colours round waist; black, gold em-
broidered Senorita jacket ; cap with sequins ; armlets and
bracelets united by chains. Samuel, similar dress to
Pirate King, only a sailor's cap instead of cocked hat ; sailor's
collar, and no epaulettes. Mabel, short plaited skirt ; tunic
bordered with frilling, bunch of flowers at side ; fichu, short
sleeves, reticule at side; huge hat and feather. Kate,
similar dress without tunic. Sergeant of Police in police-
man's uniform. (See page 180.)

PROSPERO. Long black velvet robe trimmed with
sable and gold, made with long hanging sleeves, scarlet under
sleeves, barred with gold ; large collar facings of scarlet and
black with hieroglyphic signs ; skull cap similarly bordered ;
flowing grey wig, beard and moustache ; red stockings, pointed
shoes.

PUNCHINELLE (For Boy). Bodice and tunic in
yellow satin, striped with black bands, bound with gold ; skirt
of red velveteen ; red pompons and belt ; black lace ruflles,
cuffs and basque gUttering with gold ; red and black hat with
gold spangles and tufted plume ; wooden shoes.

PURITAN BOY. Brown velvet breeches ; brown cloth
coat and cloak; white tippet; felt hat. (See Plate XV.,
Fig. 58.)

PUSS IN BOOTS. Cat's head and bodice; groom's
coat made of white fur with leather belt ; top boots.

QUADRILLES AND DANCES. Besides the fancy

250 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

quadrilles described in the introductory chapter, at children's
Fancy Balls there might be such innovations as a sheet and
pillow-case party, the wearers disguised in white drapery ;
a phantom party, habited in long white robes like monks, a
cord about the waist, and a pointed cap hiding the face all but
the eyes. Tableaux by children might open the proceedings,
such as the "Old Woman who lived in a Shoe," ''A
Neapolitan Wedding," "Dream of Fair Women," "The
Courts of the Gods," &c. The Lithuanienne is a good dance
for such balls; so is "The Old Woman's Children," who
dance round her, she spurring them with her broom, till at
last, throwing off her disguise, she appears as a Spanish
dancer. The Minuet, the May -pole Dance, the Swedish
Dance, and the Tempete Swing Valse, are all excellent, and
have met with great success "here and in America. It is a
good plan for a certain number of children to appear in the
characters of one special fairy tale.

RED RIDING-HOOD. Blue silk, quilted skirt; black
velvet bodice ; red cloak; muslin pinafore ; head-dress, corn-
flowers. {See R, in body of book.) Or, red shoes, blue
stockings ; striped red and white shirt ; white apron ; red hood
and cape ; blue bodice laced in front^; flowers in hand, and
basket of eggs. (See Coloured Plate XVI.)

REYNOLDS, after SIR JOSHUA. For little
boys there is a good dress in " Feeding the Chickens ; " black
shoes with black bows ; red stockings ; blue petticoat with blue
band ; white high pinafore with red sash, made with a wide
falling collar, bordered with a frill ; sleeves to elbow ; a red
bow at throat. Another, in "Doubtful Security," the child
wears shoes with straps; also a yellow and blue skirt; low white
pinafore with pink sash. The Angerstein Children :
The boy wears a frill and a turned-down collar, edged with
lace. The girl is conspicuous for her large straw hat, trimmed
with ribbons, and worn over a fine head of curls, which frame
the face. A special feature in her dress is the short shawl
thrown over the shoulders and turned under the coloured scarf
which encircles her waist, forming a bow with long ends on the
right hip. The manner in which the boys have their hair
arranged is characteristic of the period — a la Russe it would
be called now, short over the eyebrows, and falling in curls on
the shoulders, most becoming to youthful faces. The
Aflectionate Brothers : The attire of the three boys is

APPENDIX. 251

quaint and picturesque as fancy dress, and the group as a
whole would make an admirable tableau vivant enacted by
children — the eldest boy with coat, waistcoat, and breeches
of maroon-coloured or black velvet ; the little boy with
jacket and trousers combined, and made of Hght-coloured
cloth ; and the baby all in white, with a gaily-trimmed Gains-
borough hat in miniature, and a cherry-coloured sash round
its tiny waist.

RICHARD I., CCEUR-DE-LION. In a maroon
telvet tunic trimmed with gold lace, three lions couchant em-
broidered in gold on the breast ; white silk tights ; velvet
trunks ; gold and satin shoes ; jewelled belt, sword, and dagger.

RISING SUN. As a schoolboy, with large hnen collar
bordered with a frill ; shell jacket with many buttons ; trousers
buttoned over.

ROBINSON CRUSOE. Knickerbockers and long
coat of fur, with robins sewn about it ; belt round the waist ;
silk tights, sandals ; green parrot on shoulders ; fowling-piece,
pistols, hatchet, and umbrella. Mrs. Crusoe is dressed after
the same fashion.

SAILOR {English). A favourite costume at Fancy Balls.
It is best to obtain the real sailor dress from a nautical out-
fitter, either in white drill or serge; viz., loose trousers, loose
jacket tucked into them ; a belt round the waist, the sleeves
of the jacket fastening at the wrist ; having a sailor's collar,
very open at the neck, with a silk handkerchief tied in a
sailor's knot beneath it ; a man-of-war straw hat, or a sou-wester
and peajacket. The drill suits have the jacket trimmed with
blue down the front and on the cuffs and collar.

SCHOOLBOY. For a tall boy ; green jacket, with triple
row of buttons down the front ; large frilled collar ; grey
trousers, short, and buttoned over the jacket; shoes with
straps ; a satchel with books slung over shoulder.

SCHOOLMASTER. Coat of cloth made long, with
gold buttons ; striped blue waistcoat ; nankeen breeches, fas-
tened at the knee with the same buttons ; white and blue
woollen stockings ; high collar, and blue silk necktie ; spelling
book under the arm ; Madras handkerchief escaping from the
pocket; periwig, brown jersey; quill pen in the ear; birch in
the hand ; muslin frillings round the wrist.

R

252 FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED.

SHEPHERD. Blue stockings, black shoes; figured
blue cotton bodice showing only at neck; and breeches, bunches
of ribbon at knee ; Holland smock, long sleeves bordered with
pink and blue ribbon, embroidered in silk with flowers;
white wig.

SHEPHERD {French, of IXth century). Loose blouse
reaching to knee, sleeves tight to wrist ; high stockings, long-
pointed shoes ; girdle with carved horn attached ; a crook with
spear-like point.

SHEPHERD OF ABRUZZI. Brown trousers and
garters tied with strap of leather ; brown coat, and sleeves
-slung to waist, coloured scarf round waist ; sheepskin at back ;
high hat.

SHEPHERD, WATTEAU. Pink knee breeches, with
blu€ puffings down the outer side of the legs ; a white waist-
coat with small frill ; a coat coming slightly below the hips,
showing the waistcoat, and having tight sleeves to the elbow,
with big white puffings and frill to the wrist, a band of pink
with blue rosettes being bound over the upper part of the
puffing; a circular cape of violet and yellow; a Gains-
borough-shaped hat ; silk stockings, low shoes with large blue
rosettes on the instep ; and a crook with a bunch of blue and
yellow ribbons on the top.

SIMPLE SIMON. Old-fashioned smock ; corduroy
trousers ; hobnailed shoes.

SLOPER. Tight brown trousers ; blue coat, brass buttons,
handkerchief coming out of pocket ; old black gloves ; white
hat and black band ; large green umbrella.

STREPHON. {See Iolanthe.)

SURFACE, CHARLES {School for Scandal). Silk
stockings, shoes with buckles ; breeches ; long-tailed coat and
waistcoat ; powdered hair and bag wig ; lace ruffles and lace
necktie, fastened with diamond star. This is always a most
elaborate costume, the coat, waistcoat, and trousers made of
light satin, and richly embroidered in gold and silver. For
example, blue satin coat, with white satin vest and breeches ;
or lilac or light pink satin suit.

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APPENDIX. 253

TOUCHSTONE. Red and white Folly dress, with bells,
and fool's cap.

TRADESMAN IN THE REIGN OF LOUIS XI.

Brown velvet doublet bordered with blue ; yellow sleeves,
large blue collar lined with red ; yellow leather purse fastened
to the belt ; brown hat turned up with red and yellow feather.

TURK. Long loose blue coat fastening down- front; fez
cap ; high black boots.

TYROLEAN. Brown or grey coat, and breeches ending
above the knee; white stockings ; black shoes. The coat,
bound with green, having green collars and cuffs, is wide and
open, showing the shirt and vest, across which there are bands
of black velvet ; and round the waist an elaborate silver em-
broidered belt. High pointed hat, entwined with silver cord ;
flowers at the side.

VATEL, MODERN. Jacket and breeches of white
satin slashed with blue,, white linen apron ; muslin ruffles ;
shoulder sash of blue moire, to which is suspended a huge
carving knife ; white cap with blue puffings ; white stockings
and shoes, and blue rosette.

VANDYKE DRESS {Girl). Full skirt reaching to the
ground ; square bodice with revers ; long sleeves and apron ;
close cap. {See Plate XVI., Fig. 64.)

^WALTER OF SALUCES {Chaucer). Dalmatic of
green and gold brocade ; purple velvet belt ; silver ornaments
and clasp ; crimson cloak Hned with fur ; wreath of ivy.

WHITTINGTON. Brown light pointed shoes covering
front of foot ; loose brown habit with belt round waist, open at
neck to show chemisette ; tight sleeves with puffed epaulette;
stick on shoulder with bundle ; short brown breeches ; blue
worsted stockings.

^WILL-O'-THE-^STISP {Girl). Black lantern in hand ;
hair flowing ; black tulle dress with iridescent beads ; star over
the forehead of electric light.

YANKEE. Skirt and trousers of striped cotton, with
high collar, black necktie, and large-brimmed hat.

DmBENPW § E^EEB0DY

O UPPLY every requisite for FANCY COSTUMES,
either for Balls or Private Theatricals,
and keep in stock a variety of Plain and Fancy Silks
and Satins, Plain and Figured Cambrics, Printed
Cretonnes and Sateens, Gloves, Flowers,
Feathers, &c., for the purpose.

In addition to their ordinary Stock they provide
to order BOOTS, Shoes, Sandals, Gilt Orna-
ments, Gems, Daggers, Helmets, Masks, Powder,
Swords, Wigs, and any other article required.

s

/JJVY of the Dresses described in this book
can be made to order, and sketches, de-
scriptions, and patterns of Materials, with full
information as to details, will be forwarded
postfree on application.

DEBENHAM k FREEBODY,

WIGMORE STREET AND WELBECK STREET,

With additional Illustrations.
In Pape?- Cover 2S. 6d., Cloth p. 6d.

(5en^femen*0

HOW TO CHOOSE |T

Descriptions of
FANCY COSTUMES suitable for GENTLEMEN.

By ARDERN holt,

AITTHOR OF " FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED ; OR, WHAT TO WEAR
AT FANCY PALI.S."

HIS handy volume contains many sugges-
tions for making Fancy Dresses at home,
also for arranging Costumes at little cost.
It presents a series of minute descriptions, thereby
directing the choice where it is intended to
purchase or have recourse to a costumier. The
Illustrations are a valuable assistance.

LONDON :

WYMAN & SONS, 74-76, GREAT QUEEN STREET,

lincoln's-inn fields, w.r.

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TO»i#- 202 Main Library

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DUE AS STAMPED BELOW

F^

P£C

Mfccw, W0V8 7 1979

MAR 2 4 1982

|iHT) APR e iaas

SEP

15 '-

SFPl5l9i8

AUTODisaocris '88

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY
FORM NO. DD6, 60m, 1 1 /78 BERKELEY, CA 94720

YC 2765/

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